Killed the stock converter

[INDY]

Well after talking with a few good tranny shops it seems that the stock conv. wasn't very happy with me spraying it out of the hole. I'm running a 100 shot thats dyno tuned to be safe and not for peak numbers. At the track I hit the bottle as soon as I leave the line an the tires are hooked up. It appears as though the near 500ftlbs of instant torque was alittle more the the stock converter could handle. So now its time to do a good converter and valve body, which I planned to do anyway just not this soon. Oh well, you gotta pay to play right.

Current mods are: cat back, O/R h-pipe, C&L tube, K&N filter, 3.90 gears, front sway bar removed, DR's, upper control arms, and a custom dyno tune. The Mach weighs 3530 with me in it.

My best N/A run was: 13.2@105mph with a 1.9 60'.
My best run on the bottle was: 12.6@112mph with a 2.0 60' (same day I went 13.4@102mph N/A).
Started to take out the converter on that run. 3 runs later the converter hated me. I'm hoping to shave some time with the new conv. and valve body. Both in N/A form and on the bottle, maybe around .5 from both. I think thats reasonable.

So I'm thinking a 3000 stall would work well for me since the Mach is my DD. Plus I'm going to do a valve body and have the tranny gone through while its apart. I only want to do this once, so I'm not looking to do it cheap I want the best parts for my baby. I'm open to any comments or suggestions.

[MyLittlePony]

What makes you think it's the convertor?

Whats it doing?

I have alot of experience blowing Mach autos

[torchredmach]

Originally Posted by INDY

So I'm thinking a 3000 stall would work well for me

Ignorant question: Isn't that pretty much what you already had? I thought stock are like 2500-3000?

I'd get a 4000

[Swweetness]

I would say a 3000 rpm stall is a pretty good choice, but it never hurts to call the company who builds whatever converter you decide to buy, and get there input to make sure you get the right one for your application. Nitrous is hard on converters and that's why they build nitrous specific options. As a tranny rebuilder for 14 yrs, I saw many blown up converters, and my boss raced a lot, and he went through a few. It happens. Just make sure you get one for how you plan to use it for, and don't go cheap. With these, you get what you pay for. Know that from experience!

[Swweetness]

Originally Posted by torchredmach

Ignorant question: Isn't that pretty much what you already had? I thought stock are like 2500-3000?

I'd get a 4000

Stock is usually around 1800/2000 rpm. And 4000 is a bit high for DD status. JMO.

[INDY]

Heres a quick description for the problem I'm having. When I didn't have the bottle I could stall the converter to @ 2400rpm on the foot brake. After the first time I ran the bottle at the track I noticed on the next pass that I couldn't go past 1200rpm on the foot brake or it would try to blow the tires off before I let off the brake. The shops I talked to said that the amount of instant torque created by the bottle probably folded the fins in the converter. This is my first mustang with an automatic all the others were 5speed cars. So I don't know alot about the auto's yet, I'm just listen to the advice and info a couple of local shops have gave me.

I have talked with YellowMenace a few times about going to a higher stall. In the end I will let the company that builds the converter help me to decide the best stall for my setup. Right now I'm talking with 2 different companies, it never hurts to get more then one opinion. After I finally decide what I'm going to run I'll be sure to post it.

[MyLittlePony]

I had a Pi Stallion multidisc 3800. Great for NA. Too loose for the hudred shot.

I would go 2800-3000 on the juice. Right about where you want for any chance of a Juiced launch not banging the rev limiter.

Did you check your tranny fluid? Color and smell?

[MACHYOUNG]

[QUOTE=MyLittlePony;701666]I had a Pi Stallion multidisc 3800. Great for NA. Too loose for the hudred shot.

I would go 2800-3000 on the juice. Right about where you want for any chance of a Juiced launch not banging the rev limiter.

OK, help me to understand. I have a PI 4000 stall (re-stalled from 3000). I just installed nitrous, various 100 shot launches and just last week a 125 shot. Best 60' ever, 1.527!!! Am I pushing my luck? Should I get the converter re-stalled back to 3000? Should I look to upgrade to dual disc?

[INDY]

PI Converters recommended a 3200 stall with multi disc. They said I need a multi disc because I programmed the converter to go in to lock up in second gear at WOT. According to them a single disc wont hold up to that kind of stress which is why the factory converter failed. I'm still talking with them and I'll post up any info that could help others later on. So for now it looks like thats the route I'll be going with for my new converter.

[3150Mach1]

Originally Posted by INDY

PI Converters recommended a 3200 stall with multi disc. They said I need a multi disc because I programmed the converter to go in to lock up in second gear at WOT. According to them a single disc wont hold up to that kind of stress which is why the factory converter failed. I'm still talking with them and I'll post up any info that could help others later on. So for now it looks like thats the route I'll be going with for my new converter.

If you can post up where your are ordering it from and cost. Also interested in installation cost if you don't do it yourself.

[MyLittlePony]

How does the tranny fluid look?

[INDY]

Its alittle over $900 for 3200rpm stall 9.5 Stallion with multi disc lockup.
What ever I end up getting, I will install and retune it at work.


The fuild looks fine for the mileage, and the trans acts ok. But the stall dropped over 1000rpm.

[INDY]

Originally Posted by Mach1Marauder

dropped?

It use to stall @ 2500, now its @ 1500

[Darrin]

Originally Posted by Swweetness

Stock is usually around 1800/2000 rpm. And 4000 is a bit high for DD status. JMO.

That is just not accurate. The stock stall specs straight from Ford on this car are 2375-2767. That is directly from the service DVD by the way. Their words not mine.

If these cars had an 1800-2000 converter they would just plain be a pig off the line. I suggest no less than a good efficient 3500 converter.

Careful with those paper clutches that PI uses.

Darrin

[Swweetness]

Sorry, just basing off of my old Mustang with an auto. And it was a pig off the line, which is why I got a manual trans in the Mach. No more dog off the line.

[Darrin]

Yeah, the old 5 liter cars had a lower stall.
Starting in 96 with the modular they introduced the 11.25in converter on the GT. All Ford 11.25in units have exactly the same components that affect stall and have the same K factor. So if you put the Mach converter in a 96 GT is will stall the same on the GT as the converter you took out. Conversely if you put the GT converter in the Mach it would stall the same as the one you took out of it too. The very minimal differences in rated stall are mostly due to the power difference in the engines. In 96 on the GT's the rated stall was 2324-2737. Not a huge difference between that and the Mach. They showed 2339-2738 for 99-04 on the GT. I think they changed the numbers just to show a difference on the cars. LOL

Darrin

[INDY]

Darrin-- thanks for all of your help and input today on the phone. I will be getting in touch with you real soon to have my trans done and order my converter. It sounds like this should really help get my Mach running the times it should be. Plus it will still have good manors for daily driving. Thanks again for all of your help.

Well after talking with Darrin today I have a plan for the new converter and trans mods. Once its all done I will post the results and the final combination. It sounds like it'll have @ 3200 stall and I'll be still able to lock the converter up on the botlle.