Engine removal. - 2003-04 Mach 1 Registry Owners Club

BONESTOCK · 02-10-2006, 05:20 AM

Hey guys.

The ones that have experience removing an engine. Is it difficult to do, say, in your driveway?

I'm probably going to have to do it within the next couple years for a forging!

Any tips/suggestions?

01TruBluGT · 02-10-2006, 08:37 AM

Nope. If you have a set of ramps and an engine hoist it should be pretty straight forward. If I were you I would pull the tranny off the motor and just pull the motor out of the top. Alot of guys on here pulled the whole thing but the 45 min it takes me to get the tranny out is worth the extra time I saved not dealing with tilting the motor. If you pull it without tranny attached I would remove the hood completely, leave the radiator in but take the fan and overflow tank off.

I put mine on a set of ramps got all of the connections loose, then put it back on the ground and hoisted away. I attached the cains to the alternator mounting holes and since I had the tranny out I used the two top bellhousing bolts. I can't remember the size of the bolts but I did go to Home Depot and get two grade 8 bolts to use instead of using the factory tranny bolts. As for the tranny bolts you need to watch which order you take them out. Some are longer than others and you want to make sure you put them back in the way they came out

Two things to suggest to you before you start. Do not disconnect the a/c lines. Just unbolt the pump and use a piece of wire to keep it out of the way. 2.) The power steering pump has a bolt that sits behind one of the hard lines, you will need an open end o get it out. Important part when putting it back in tighten that bolt first. I worked all at the same time and worked the front two a bit faster then the back one and messed up the hard line. took 3 days for Ford to get a new line in and it was about $90.00

BONESTOCK · 02-10-2006, 05:21 PM

Thanks for the reply!! Great info in there. The tranny's not a problem as I have the a Lakewood BH with the TKO600.

AC is getting removed too.

Numach14me · 02-10-2006, 05:56 PM

nope, go the other way and drop the k member it's the easiest and fastest!

2k4mach · 02-10-2006, 05:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Numach14me

nope, go the other way and drop the k member it's the easiest and fastest!

i agree

BONESTOCK · 02-10-2006, 07:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Numach14me

nope, go the other way and drop the k member it's the easiest and fastest!

I don't have a lift though.

2k4mach · 02-10-2006, 07:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BONESTOCK

I don't have a lift though.

dont need a lift, it can be done on jack stands. I know cuz me and a buddy did it on his 03 cobra a few months ago.

hawk · 02-10-2006, 09:14 PM

don't you need some pretty tall jackstands to get that engine out from under the car? or am I missing soemthing?

04DSG Mach · 02-10-2006, 10:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hawkpilot

don't you need some pretty tall jackstands to get that engine out from under the car? or am I missing soemthing?

Yeah, im somewhat confused too, good question. I'm very intrested to hear the answer. When I pulled my motor in my 5.0 I pulled both the tranny and motor at the same time, easiest thing ever, as long as you have a load leveler.

Tyler

2k4mach · 02-10-2006, 10:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hawkpilot

don't you need some pretty tall jackstands to get that engine out from under the car? or am I missing soemthing?

yup, tall jackstands and left the rear on the ground, lowered the kmember along with the motor and tranny all as 1 assembly

hawk · 02-12-2006, 11:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 01TruBluGT

The power steering pump has a bolt that sits behind one of the hard lines, you will need an open end o get it out. Important part when putting it back in tighten that bolt first. I worked all at the same time and worked the front two a bit faster then the back one and messed up the hard line.

Did you have to remove the pulley to get to the bolts? That front one looks pretty tight in there...

01TruBluGT · 02-13-2006, 09:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hawkpilot

Did you have to remove the pulley to get to the bolts? That front one looks pretty tight in there...

Nope I left the pully on and used open end wrenches.

I am with you Hawk...how do you get the motor out from under the car???? You would need to get the front end up atleast 2.5'-3' off of the ground, depending on your ride height you might not even be able to go up that heigh without hitting the rear bumper on the ground??

Maybe if you pulled the front bumper cover, radiator, and steel bumper off you could slide it through the opening???

hawk · 02-13-2006, 10:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 01TruBluGT

Nope I left the pully on and used open end wrenches.

I am with you Hawk...how do you get the motor out from under the car???? You would need to get the front end up atleast 2.5'-3' off of the ground, depending on your ride height you might not even be able to go up that heigh without hitting the rear bumper on the ground??

Maybe if you pulled the front bumper cover, radiator, and steel bumper off you could slide it through the opening???

Ok, I'll try getting a fiddly little open end in there, lol!

As for your last sentence - Nope! I already have all that stuff out. The hole is too small to pass the engine through, by far.

here is a link to a pic (too big to post in the thread)

We had the car way up on some tall "SUV" 6 ton stands, and still had to wiggle the tranny out from the wheel well. The engine is MUCH taller than the bellhousing.

I'd love to see pix of a drop-engine-out-the-bottom-using-jackstands operation, just to see how it is done. I'm not calling anyone on this, BTW, I just don't see how.

01TruBluGT · 02-13-2006, 11:28 AM

I forgot about the lower radiator support lol. Noway is a motor comming out of that hole lol.

I know we got the tranny out on several occasions from under the car. We had the back end sitting up on a set of home made 2x12 wood stands under the rear tires and the front tires up on a set of metal ramps.

As for the motor I am with you...I don't see getting it out from under the car without the use of a lift. Even still the only way to get the motor to the ground safely would be to use an engine hoist to lower it to the ground......if you already have it hooked to a hoist why not just pull it out the top. Once you have it on the ground then what? You either have to set it on a furniture dolly which adds more height to it or slide it across the concrete which I would not want to do, then hoist it back up to get it onto a stand, just seems like a bunch of unneccesary work to me.

Maybe if you were swapping out the K member it might be a good idea but why drop the K and have to go get an alignment if you don't have to?

wake · 02-13-2006, 01:29 PM

I have the Mach 1 workbook with Ford's step by step instructions on removing and installing the engine if anyone wants them. I am also going to be pulling my engine out over the summer so these tips are great.

B4THUNDER · 02-16-2006, 02:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wake

I have the Mach 1 workbook with Ford's step by step instructions on removing and installing the engine if anyone wants them. I am also going to be pulling my engine out over the summer so these tips are great.

I do....

allmachedup · 02-25-2006, 06:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wake

I have the Mach 1 workbook with Ford's step by step instructions on removing and installing the engine if anyone wants them. I am also going to be pulling my engine out over the summer so these tips are great.

I want one. How do I get it?

02-10-2006, 05:20 AM	#1
BONESTOCK Registered User Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Raleigh , NC Posts: 2,093	Engine removal. Hey guys. The ones that have experience removing an engine. Is it difficult to do, say, in your driveway? I'm probably going to have to do it within the next couple years for a forging! Any tips/suggestions? __________________ 2004 Torch Red Procharged Mach 1

02-10-2006, 08:37 AM	#2
01TruBluGT Registered User Join Date: May 2004 Posts: 1,248	Re: Engine removal. Nope. If you have a set of ramps and an engine hoist it should be pretty straight forward. If I were you I would pull the tranny off the motor and just pull the motor out of the top. Alot of guys on here pulled the whole thing but the 45 min it takes me to get the tranny out is worth the extra time I saved not dealing with tilting the motor. If you pull it without tranny attached I would remove the hood completely, leave the radiator in but take the fan and overflow tank off. I put mine on a set of ramps got all of the connections loose, then put it back on the ground and hoisted away. I attached the cains to the alternator mounting holes and since I had the tranny out I used the two top bellhousing bolts. I can't remember the size of the bolts but I did go to Home Depot and get two grade 8 bolts to use instead of using the factory tranny bolts. As for the tranny bolts you need to watch which order you take them out. Some are longer than others and you want to make sure you put them back in the way they came out Two things to suggest to you before you start. Do not disconnect the a/c lines. Just unbolt the pump and use a piece of wire to keep it out of the way. 2.) The power steering pump has a bolt that sits behind one of the hard lines, you will need an open end o get it out. Important part when putting it back in tighten that bolt first. I worked all at the same time and worked the front two a bit faster then the back one and messed up the hard line. took 3 days for Ford to get a new line in and it was about $90.00

02-10-2006, 05:21 PM	#3
BONESTOCK Registered User Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Raleigh , NC Posts: 2,093	Re: Engine removal. Thanks for the reply!! Great info in there. The tranny's not a problem as I have the a Lakewood BH with the TKO600. AC is getting removed too. __________________ 2004 Torch Red Procharged Mach 1

02-10-2006, 05:56 PM	#4
Numach14me Registered User Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: SW Minnesota Posts: 540	Re: Engine removal. nope, go the other way and drop the k member it's the easiest and fastest! __________________ Click here to view my car & mods! Go fast stuff: K & N filter charger, P&P intake manifold, PHP intake spacer, 2.5" MAC Pro chamber, 3" MAC CAT back, Steeda Tri-Ax, Diablo Predator, FR 4.10 gears, Grantelli uppers & lowers, torque box supports

02-10-2006, 09:14 PM	#8
hawk Braderunna Join Date: May 2004 Location: hampton, va Posts: 4,949	Re: Engine removal. don't you need some pretty tall jackstands to get that engine out from under the car? or am I missing soemthing? __________________ "Sparky"- 2003 Azure Blue w/MT and IUP Visit my garage on mach1mustang.org for details.

02-13-2006, 11:28 AM	#14
01TruBluGT Registered User Join Date: May 2004 Posts: 1,248	Re: Engine removal. I forgot about the lower radiator support lol. Noway is a motor comming out of that hole lol. I know we got the tranny out on several occasions from under the car. We had the back end sitting up on a set of home made 2x12 wood stands under the rear tires and the front tires up on a set of metal ramps. As for the motor I am with you...I don't see getting it out from under the car without the use of a lift. Even still the only way to get the motor to the ground safely would be to use an engine hoist to lower it to the ground......if you already have it hooked to a hoist why not just pull it out the top. Once you have it on the ground then what? You either have to set it on a furniture dolly which adds more height to it or slide it across the concrete which I would not want to do, then hoist it back up to get it onto a stand, just seems like a bunch of unneccesary work to me. Maybe if you were swapping out the K member it might be a good idea but why drop the K and have to go get an alignment if you don't have to?

02-13-2006, 01:29 PM	#15
wake Registered User Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Shreveport, LA Posts: 167	Re: Engine removal. I have the Mach 1 workbook with Ford's step by step instructions on removing and installing the engine if anyone wants them. I am also going to be pulling my engine out over the summer so these tips are great. __________________ 2003 Mach 1, Black w/IUP Vortech SC-Trim Supercharger with Aftercooler 42 LB Injectors AutoLogix Chip ( Custom Tuned for SC Setup ) High Flow Air Filter MAF BBK Ceramic Long Tubes BBK High Flow Catted H pipe Flowmaster American Thunder Catback Hurst Billet Plus Shifter Autometer Pillar Mounted Air/Fuel and Boost Gauges Bullet Fuel Door Billet AC Knobs 7# Boost 472 rwhp 390 rwtq

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