Welded axle tube and gear/torque boxes

[machwon320]

Just wondering to hear from the people that got this done, where did you do it and how much were you charged for it? I want to do this but don't know how much to expect to spend? How much stronger does it make our rearend and would I be able to launch on a set of nitto 555r's a good amount of times if I do this??

[Fosters]

you should be fine for a long time on nittos... it also depends though what control arms you're running. rubber bushings in the stockers are pretty easy on the torque boxes, whereas the poly/spherical ones are much tougher...

[manny]

Originally Posted by machwon320

Just wondering to hear from the people that got this done, where did you do it and how much were you charged for it? I want to do this but don't know how much to expect to spend? How much stronger does it make our rearend and would I be able to launch on a set of nitto 555r's a good amount of times if I do this??

I had mine done by a local welder that makes housecalls. He welded my torque boxes, axle tubes, PHP axle braces, subframe connectors and some reinforcement plates that I made for the front framerails, for $152. I still have the stock axles/gears and have made over 20 passes on M/T ET Streets with no problem. I just don't dump the clutch on the launch, and I am still able to pull consistent 1.6 60' times. To make everything accessable for my welder, I had my upper/lower control arms off of the car so that he could reach everything good and run good beads.

[machwon320]

sounds like a good deal. If i take it to a shop, they should know where everything needs to be welded right?

[shake this]

Had mine done free but the welder is a good friend. Had him weld everything while the axle was out for the gear swap. Just make sure the welder takes his/her time on the axles so they don't warp.

[machwon320]

what does it mean to warp?

[shake this]

what does it mean to warp?

distort, deform, bend, twist, go out of shape...need I keep going?

[manny]

Originally Posted by machwon320

sounds like a good deal. If i take it to a shop, they should know where everything needs to be welded right?

They should, If not, go to www.modulardepot.com and click on articles, and scroll down to welding axle tubes, and you will see pics of those areas that need welding.

[machwon320]

so they need to take my lower control arm to do this..sounds like quite a task.

[manny]

Originally Posted by machwon320

so they need to take my lower control arm to do this..sounds like quite a task.

That is the best way to ensure that the person who welds them can access the entire torque box area. If you don't remove them, then he will only be able to run weld beads 1/2 way up each side of the torque boxes, but this method is still better than nothing at all. The best time to really do this mod is when you are replacing the stock control arms with aftermarket ones. I had my rearend completely out from underneath the car when I had the tubes and axle braces weled up. If you want to remove the rearend it can be done fairly easy. I even found a much easier way to remove it than what I had done in the past. The removal method that I use is as follows:

1. Jack car up as high as you can get it, (use the center of the k-member as front jacking point, and place a piece of 2x4 between the floorjack jacking plate and k-member) and place jackstands under the front frame rails (use a piece of 2x4 6"-8" between the jackstand and frame rails to prevent the framerails from denting).

2. jack the rear of the car up by the center of the differential housing, (use a piece of 2x4 between the jack pad and differential to prevent damage to the diff. cover) and place jackstands under the rear jacking points which are the flat areas just in front of the lower control arms, (remember to use a piece of 2x4 between the jackstands like in step 1).

3. remove both rear tires, (loosen lug nuts before lifting car).

4. unbolt rear calipers and wire them out of the way.

5. unbolt the upper control arms (place a second jack under the front of the diff. and slowly jack the front of the diff. housing which makes it pivot so that the control arm bolts can be removed easily).

6. unbolt the rear shock lower mount bolts, and loosen the lower control arm bolts for now.

7. remove the quad shocks.

8. remove the jack from the front of the diff. for now, and slowly lower the rear diff. until the rear springs can be easily removed by hand (when reinstalling rear springs later, the pigtails at the bottom of both springs need to be pointing towards the driver's side of the car.

9. jack the diff. up again about 6"-8" and remove the lower control arm bolts.

10. have a helper get on each side of the outter axle tubes and balance the diff. as you lower the jack completely.

11. with the two helpers balancing the ends of the axle tubes, and with the diff. resting on the floorjack, pull the floorjack backwards until the diff. is out from underneath the car. Now you can place a 3rd set of jackstands under the axle tubes and support the entire rearend for your welder.

This may seem complicated but it is really very easy. just take your time and be safe. Good luck.

[machwon320]

wow thanks manny thats a great description on the instructions of the diff. removal. I would probably just have the shop do it since I will most likely not have a welder come to my house. This sounds like it will be something I will get done when I replace my lower control arm. What kind of bushings do you guys recomend for the control arm, and who has the best control arms on the market or are reputable?

[manny]

Originally Posted by machwon320

wow thanks manny thats a great description on the instructions of the diff. removal. I would probably just have the shop do it since I will most likely not have a welder come to my house. This sounds like it will be something I will get done when I replace my lower control arm. What kind of bushings do you guys recomend for the control arm, and who has the best control arms on the market or are reputable?

I have UPR adjustable lowers and UPR radius rod adjustable uppers with spherical rod ends and aluminum bushings all the way around, including the diff. ears. I love em.

[machwon320]

a mechanic told me that I don't need to weld my axle tubes or tourqe boxes even if I get nitto's because my car is not putting down enough power to break anything. They say its a waste of money. I just want to have my rearend as strong as I can right now without spending money on a new posi and axles. What do you guys think?

[mustangmike2003]

Hes right

[shake this]

If your going to do the gear swap then you might as well weld the axles. As many have said before..."better safe then sorry" and it's nice to know you've overbuilt something when your at the strip. Don't want to go home on a trailer!

[manny]

Originally Posted by machwon320

a mechanic told me that I don't need to weld my axle tubes or tourqe boxes even if I get nitto's because my car is not putting down enough power to break anything. They say its a waste of money. I just want to have my rearend as strong as I can right now without spending money on a new posi and axles. What do you guys think?

I disagree, as any sticky tire will eventually cause stress to the torque boxes over time with repeated hard launches. The stock torque boxes are only spot welded from the factory. The stock control arm bushings are more forgiving when launching hard on sticky tires, as the rubber bushings flex reducing some of the shock. I know it may seem like a lot of work to remove your rearend and have things welded up right, but it is really very easy. I'm talking 2 hrs max to remove and reinstall it (not including the weld time). There are many certified welders that are mobile and will come to you, and they can be found in the Yellowpages Phonebook. Did you read the entire article on Modulardepot about the axle tubes and torque boxes? The guy who wrote the article said that his car was making less than 300 hp to the tires and he twisted an axle tube. I don't want to sound like I know it all because I certainly don't, but I just believe in properly setting up a car for the type of driving that it will be subjected to. In the long run you will have less problems if you do. Good luck with whatever you decide.

[Fosters]

Originally Posted by machwon320

a mechanic told me that I don't need to weld my axle tubes or tourqe boxes even if I get nitto's because my car is not putting down enough power to break anything. They say its a waste of money. I just want to have my rearend as strong as I can right now without spending money on a new posi and axles. What do you guys think?

you are making enough power to break axles, but your tires arent sticky enough to break the axles probably...

either way, better safe than sorry. sooner or later, when you decide to run some stickier tires, you'll upgrade your axles/diff, and you'll be glad to have done the torque boxes/axle tubes...

[machwon320]

Originally Posted by Fosters

you are making enough power to break axles, but your tires arent sticky enough to break the axles probably...

either way, better safe than sorry. sooner or later, when you decide to run some stickier tires, you'll upgrade your axles/diff, and you'll be glad to have done the torque boxes/axle tubes...

I agree with you on this. It will be nice to know that I have my rearend over-done like manny said just in case my plans change on which way I go with the car. Who knows what I will end up doing next and its better to be safe than sorry. If I decide on getting a lower control arm I might as well ask him to weld my tubes and boxes as well for extra support.

[whitegt46]

I did all the welding myself