Has anyone with any o/r mid pipe felt

[daddy rob]

That when you take off in everyday conditions that your car has no real power at the bottom end and feals like a sloppy mess ..I expected to lose back preasure witch = low end tq but man until I hit the 3500 range it just feals like a noisy turd ...or is it just me..i'm thinking of going with high flow cats or putting regular mufflers on to cap it up a little..I have the pro chamber with slp lm 1 and there in no restriction at all on exhaust flow..

[Mach1Madman]

No problems here.

[G]

I think mine has shifted the torque curve up the rpm range some but it would be hard to feel, seat of the pants. I can feel the increased performance 3K and above. Frankly, I'm happy with the car now but it drove best with the f/s h-pipe and the LM1 catback.

It is possible to mod a car until it drives like crap on the street, I've done it twice (69 Z28 and 70 Nova L88). I don't plan to repeat.

[townson24]

Same problem here, daddy rob. It was really loud, but just didn't go anywhere real fast under low rpm's. I had mieneke weld in some high flow cats and it quieted it down some and gave my back the lost pressure. Now, I have bbk lt's, short catted h pipe and the slp loudmouth. Its not loud under normal rpm's. But, open it up and man is it loud, and sounds pretty sweet. A tune will also quiet it down a bit; it won't pop as much on deceleration.

[Mach&Roll]

I never noticed a difference on my other cars. I also ran cambered mufflers with the stock tail pipes and only flow tubes put on to keep the low end in tach.

[Orange whip 04]

What we have here is a case of Good exhaust / Bad exhaust. Any time you open the exhaust and get rid of restrictions and lessen back pressure you create potential more horse power, but at the same time you may decrease low end torque. Where as, more restrictions and more back pressure create or retain higher levels of low end torque. The down side from this is you do not make more horse power, which is what many of us want. Low end torque situations can be made up in other mods, so even though you dont feel power in the seat, you make more potential power on the higher rpm scale. This is a normal charachteristic with the modular pushrod-less engine. With this engine we're able to push the engine higher which makes power at a higher scale and thats why you feel your exhaust work better at that scale, rather than down low. As i said there are ways of compensating for this condition, Either in rear end gear size, air intake mods, and i can also recomend a adjustable hand valve that you could fabricate into the exhaust pipe so that you may adjust back pressure yourself and obtain a comfortable setting of your choice. Just keep in mind the horse power implecations of potential loss in power with more back pressure and restrictions if you value low end torque over HP.

[huntr424]

I felt the same thing when I installed my mac o/r H-pipe. In the lower rpm's it's sloppy. Up top it goes like hell. But since I dont race my car (yet) and most normall driving relies on torque Im changing over to catted x pipe with slp cat backs. Ill be solving the horsepower loss once the pro-charger arrives

[Mach&Roll]

Let us know when you get your prochanrger man. I am thinking either eaton or kenny belle for my car after the warrenty is up.

[daddy rob]

i can also recomend a adjustable hand valve that you could fabricate into the exhaust pipe so that you may adjust back pressure yourself and obtain a comfortable setting of your choice

hmmm Interesting...Tell me more please...

[MattN03]

A PHP intake spacer improved the SOP feeling down low in my Mach after installing a MRT O/R h-pipe. I have no real complaints about lowend torque now (for the mods I've done anyways). For $100 it's worth a shot.

Gears will take care of that little problem also

[Orange whip 04]

Originally Posted by daddy rob

hmmm Interesting...Tell me more please...

Well, Strickly taking this idea from my catalyst testing in the dyno lab in which we test individual cats and full catalyst systems that have adjustable valve pipes just after the cat or down stream from the cats. They are basicaly inline valve pipes with handles and we are able to adjust the back pressure we need for a particular test. We use these manily for adjusting to a particular tempature in catalyst aging. When we open the valves, the temps actualy rise, back pressure deminishes and horse power is created because the engine works less to push exhaust pressure out of the tail pipe. And when we close the valve, the temp decreases thus creating more back pressure. That is why you do not gain more horse power because the engine is having to work harder to push exhaust pressure out. If valves were incorperated into cat backs or the mid pipe itself, you could adjust your own back pressure to a setting that best works with your exhaust system regaurdless of cats or no cats.

[daddy rob]

i have noticed that after taking my cats off that my floor board is alot warmer and i can feal the heat rising from the foot compartment .also when I take off some times I can hear a kind of woshing sound like air escaping threw a gap or small opening witch makes me think exhaust leak on the drivers side my ses light has been on sence the mid pipe install and when I went to get it tuned they ran a scaner on it .They told mY left bank o2 bla bla bla . so I bought a new o2 it's a bosh I havent put it in yet .I was also told when they put my car on the dyno that my car was so lean that it would not even register on there high tech rod they stuck up my tail pipe (hmmm) anyway they added fuel bla bla bla the light went out came back on 5 min down the road and here I am today with hot stinky ses light no low end tq loud car ...what do you think?

[Orange whip 04]

Originally Posted by daddy rob

i have noticed that after taking my cats off that my floor board is alot warmer and i can feal the heat rising from the foot compartment .also when I take off some times I can hear a kind of woshing sound like air escaping threw a gap or small opening witch makes me think exhaust leak on the drivers side my ses light has been on sence the mid pipe install and when I went to get it tuned they ran a scaner on it .They told mY left bank o2 bla bla bla . so I bought a new o2 it's a bosh I havent put it in yet .I was also told when they put my car on the dyno that my car was so lean that it would not even register on there high tech rod they stuck up my tail pipe (hmmm) anyway they added fuel bla bla bla the light went out came back on 5 min down the road and here I am today with hot stinky ses light no low end tq loud car ...what do you think?

First, your going to feel a little extra heat due to the missing cats. Remember when back pressure goes away, Heat temps rise. Thats why your feeling the extra heat. Second, it does sound like you have a exhaust leak. If the leak is at the front 02's or before further upstream at the Mid pipe connection to the manifolds, this could cause the SES light to come on. If the leak is in that area this would be considered unmetered exhaust which means the exhaust is escaping before the 02's have a chance to examine the amount of gasses in a ceratin amount of time which then triggers a hard fault code and results in that dreaded SES light on your dash.

[Orange whip 04]

Your probably thinking the exhaust leak is causing the extra heat? If it was, it would have to be a pretty bad exhaust leak and you would see sooty deposites underneath your mustang. There are some things you can do to check for exhaust leak.

[daddy rob]

so other than just tightning the bolts .is there any thing else i can do ?the ford dealer put on my mid pipe and mgw shifter for free when i had my clutch installd i had em in my trunk and they said they had to put something back and it didnt matter what it was ..he uses the factory gasket on the passenger side and the factory coller in the pipe on the drivers side does that matter ? so I just go ape **** with an impact on em ..I read on here that one guy knocked out the factory studs on the manafolds and put in some bolts that thread all the way up so he could singe them down more and that cured his pipe from leaking (hmm) anyway and the flicken flocken ses light from coming on..what do ya think about that my nizzel..

[Orange whip 04]

Originally Posted by daddy rob

so other than just tightning the bolts .is there any thing else i can do ?the ford dealer put on my mid pipe and mgw shifter for free when i had my clutch installd i had em in my trunk and they said they had to put something back and it didnt matter what it was ..he uses the factory gasket on the passenger side and the factory coller in the pipe on the drivers side does that matter ? so I just go ape **** with an impact on em ..I read on here that one guy knocked out the factory studs on the manafolds and put in some bolts that thread all the way up so he could singe them down more and that cured his pipe from leaking (hmm) anyway and the flicken flocken ses light from coming on..what do ya think about that my nizzel..

Well, you'll first need to verifiy if there is a leak. And you can do that in your own driveway. You'll need to get a small squirt bottle and fill it with soap and water (snoop). And i would recomend putting your mach on 4 stands so you can get underneath. First, check all your bolt connect and make sure they are tight. Check the tighness of the 02 sensors. If everything is tight, move on to squirting all main connections with the soap and water. start with the connection between the front mid and manifold connection, further down stream where the end of the mid pipe and cat back meet. Check all clamps at the mufflers. If any bubbles are present, that is where your leak is. You can also have a friend give your engines some R's while you manualy check for leaks. carefully feel around all those same connections with out touching the pipes. THEY ARE HOT! Another way to check for leaks involves putting 10 psi of constant compressed air into the system while using the snoop (soap and water) while appling it to those same areas might reviel some leaks too. You'll need a rubber plug to block one tail pipe off and a pressure regulator fitted with the correct rubber plug to the other side of the tail pipe. Regulate 10 psi of air from a compressor and go underneath and applie the snoop. Look for bubbles. find the bubbles, you'll find the leaks.

[Mach&Roll]

If you do replace the sensor use the frod sensors not the boush sensors. They did not fix my problem and I had to have the factory put in a ford sensor.

[Mach1Madman]

You've got a MAC product. It probably leaks. If it does, it won't be enough to really hear or cause any problems. If it was leaking enough to cause drivability problems or throw a code, you would definately be able to hear it. My O/R H is the same design and it periodically leaks on all of the connections except the pass. side. The fitment sucks.. Check the Driver side up by the manifold. Also, because you have NO cats and LM exhaust, you have almost no backpressure. That will definately wipe out your low rpm torque and throttle response. LM's aren't even mufflers. They're just a big piece of pipe with no baffles or packing. It's just like running straight pipe from the manifolds back. Bad combo for drivability.

[Mach1Madman]

BTW, a lean engine will run hotter than normal. Get a tuner to turn off the rear O2 sensors and that will take away one reason why your SES light is on. MILs don't always work.

[Mach&Roll]

Yeah i am with him you have next to no back pressure. You might want to buy mufflers or the lm2's at least. The only real back pressure you have is over the axel and that is not that much at all. Hey guys do you think the little pin hole leaks will rob power or cause much of a noticeable loss in power? Just a question.

[Fosters]

when i switched mine, i had 4.30s with stock tires, so if i did lose any torque down low, it prolly helped b/c of the traction problem...

[crimsongt]

I could not tell at all when i went catless on my prochamber

[Mach&Roll]

I think his problem is the lack of muffler. If he switched to some sore of muffler I think he would gain a lot of his low end back and maybe only lose a little of his top end it any.

[crimsongt]

I feel a lose in bottom end when I run my cutouts open but not when I'm running my borla stingers. So I would have to say I agree.

[Mach1Madman]

Originally Posted by Mach&Roll

Yeah i am with him you have next to no back pressure. You might want to buy mufflers or the lm2's at least. The only real back pressure you have is over the axel and that is not that much at all. Hey guys do you think the little pin hole leaks will rob power or cause much of a noticeable loss in power? Just a question.

I'd have to say no. If you can't hear the leak standing back from the car, it won't be enough. It's most likely to cause a problem between the cylinder head and the mufflers. A bad leak anywhere between those will rob power. I mean bad (blown out gasket for example).