Got some new dyno numbers (video too)

[Procharged2k3]

Fell short of what I was expecting. Turns out the P1SC-H that comes with the Mach 1 kits is purposely designed to be less efficient than the standard P1SC.

486/466 where I used to be 448/418. Peak HP is at 6000 RPM where boost is 14.3 PSI. It actually build to 17 PSI at 7000 RPM, but It drops in power after 6000. Still made some solid numbers though and made BIG gains down low. I used to make 200 lb/ft at 3500 RPM, now it's 350 lb/ft at 3500! That really made a huge difference in the whole character of the car.

Anyway, looks like I'll need to step it up to a D1SC if I want to break into the 500s.

EDIT: Technically, at the crank it's like 560-570 HP so I'll just keep reminding myself about that lol.

[Hpstang]

Car looks and sounds great. Didn't know about the p1sc-h though. What's the deal with it?

[Procharged2k3]

Originally Posted by Hpstang

Car looks and sounds great. Didn't know about the p1sc-h though. What's the deal with it?

Thanks. It's SO LOUD from the outside. I had no idea, doesn't seem as loud inside. I didn't know about the P1SC-H either until yesterday. Turns out the fins on the impeller are cut shorter to lower the efficiency because they were trying to keep the boost down on the higher compression stock Mach engines.

[Hpstang]

Good to know

[Tommy Z]

Originally Posted by Procharged2k3

Thanks. It's SO LOUD from the outside. I had no idea, doesn't seem as loud inside. I didn't know about the P1SC-H either until yesterday. Turns out the fins on the impeller are cut shorter to lower the efficiency because they were trying to keep the boost down on the higher compression stock Mach engines.

Not doubting you, and I'm not too up to date on centrifugal blowers but how did you find out about this? It makes sense but just seems so odd to me.

Car looks and sounds awesome!

[Procharged2k3]

Originally Posted by Tommy Z

Not doubting you, and I'm not too up to date on centrifugal blowers but how did you find out about this? It makes sense but just seems so odd to me.

Car looks and sounds awesome!

Thanks Tommy. My shop found out directly from Procharger when they were on the phone discussing pulley sizes.

[311-420]

Congrats on the tq! Sucks about the head unit. Didn't even know that model existed

[Procharged2k3]

My shop had no idea either, and they work with Procharged Mustangs all the time.

So it's been 3 days aaaaand, my car's broken. Won't start. This thing's driving me up a wall. It's like the fuel pumps aren't getting power. They don't whine when I put the key into on mode like they should. Fuse is fine. Either the BAP is dead or there's a bad connection somewhere I think. I doubt both pumps would go out at the same time.

I hate to do it because I love the car, but I think I might sell it. It's virtually emptied my bank account and it's still not working.

It's been in the shop more than on the road and I can't keep doing this.

[VA-Mach1]

Gotta fix it before you can sell it. And when you get it fixed you'll want to keep it

[Procharged2k3]

I know, that's the problem. It's a vicious cycle lol. It's so badass to drive around when it's working.

[311-420]

Is the theft light blinking really fast? PATS will disable power to the pumps. I had an issue like that earlier this year. Kept popping the #26 maxifuse in the box by the battery. The fuse for the pcm. Turned out to be a loose connection for the noise suppressor on the back of the passenger side head. A search here revealed another instance of this but on the driver's side head. It's a freak thing, but it does happen. Reach back there and push down on them and make sure it's not that. In my case, I heard a "click" when I re-seated it.

[Procharged2k3]

How fast should it normally be blinking? It's blinking about every second. I seem to remember it normally blinked slower than that, but I never paid that much attention. Since you got me on the mindset of the PATS, I tried my other key thinking maybe the RF chip in my main key is bad. Still nothing.

[311-420]

Originally Posted by Procharged2k3

How fast should it normally be blinking? It's blinking about every second. I seem to remember it normally blinked slower than that, but I never paid that much attention. Since you got me on the mindset of the PATS, I tried my other key thinking maybe the RF chip in my main key is bad. Still nothing.

Normal is one blink about every 2-3 sec iirc

[Procharged2k3]

So I'm having a really bad day. Problem was the fuel pressure sensor. That's not so bad, but apparently I ruined the bottom end by trying to crank it too much with no oil pressure. Stupid. This is a brand new fully built short block that I put less than 1,000 miles on. It makes a terrible clanging sound now. Oil is getting drained and checked for metal bits, but by the sound it's making this thing is toast.

I'm just completely numb right now. I don't even have the money to replace the engine again, it cost me $11k to get that and a couple other upgrades and that almost wiped me out. Probably not the smartest financial decision ever, but I thought hey this is expensive, but then I have my dream Mustang and I'm good to go. Guess it's not in the cards.

I still owe $13k on the car. What do I do now?

[311-420]

No oil pressure?

[Procharged2k3]

Well I tried cranking it to get it started a bunch, like... a lot. All of the oil was drained back down into the pan plus apparently tons of fuel was actually in the cylinders and washed the rings down. We're thinking there wasn't enough lubrication and my excessive cranking of the thing broke something because of all this.

I'm having it towed back over to a Mustang specialty shop tonight or tomorrow, and these guys really know what they're doing. They're going to check it out for me. Maybe I'll still get lucky, but it sounds horrible. I'll try to get some video of it tonight.

I've had the oil drained for examination and there aren't any chunks in there, but it does look a bit metallic. On the other hand, I changed the oil 500 miles after the new motor went in, and I'm still on that oil, so it could still be from break-in.

I really just need to have it looked at closer before I know exactly what's up, but it's looking grim right now. If I can't salvage this block, I might just part the car out. I might be able to get close to what I owe. I hate having to part out a rare car like this though.

[Hpstang]

Man I am sorry to hear all this. Hopefully it works out for you man. Good luck man I would hate for you to part out your car after to spent all this money to get it where it is

[Procharged2k3]

Thanks man, I hope it doesn't come down to parting it. Would be a sad day for me.

Here's what it sounds like. I texted the vid to the owner of my usual shop (this one it's at now is a lot closer and was easier to have it towed to for now) and he said it sounds like the valvetrain. Harder to tell from a video. I'll have to see what he thinks when he has it in the flesh, I'll have it sent over there tomorrow.

[sutyak]

Sounds like a stuck lifter from the video. I'd pull that head and tear it down. At least from the video it sounds like it's coming from the driver side head. The sound is too rapid for bottom end.

[Procharged2k3]

I really hope you're right. If I need new heads, I could deal with that I guess. I would still strongly consider selling it though. This car has been a nightmare from the beginning.

[Hpstang]

This is why as much as I want to go procharger I don't at the same time for the up front money. I'm really thinking of going back to the original plan of a 100 shot plate kit with all the goodies and safety features. It will be much cheaper on the front end and I'm pretty sure it will get me to my goal of mid high 11s. I realize anything can happen but if it does on the bottle I will have less money invested in my power adder and more money free to build the motor. I just really hope it works out for you. I hate hearing stuff like this when people dump all they have and hard earned money to build there dream car and it doesn't come together.

[Procharged2k3]

Might be smart money wise for initial investment, but honestly I think nitrous is harder on the engine and trans than a Procharger would be. I might be wrong, but it seems that way to me having such a big instant power spike.

Get a blower, and a nice safe conservative tune at around 400 rwhp and she'll be good to go for a long time! Power always on tap and don't have to worry about bottle pressure or refills either.

[monsterbrad]

An automobile like this is NEVER an investment.
Sorry to hear about your troubles.
After many years of going after power myself it comes down to money.
Sometimes its just not worth it!
Buying a race car is what i was thinking then realized that it will never end.
Enjoy a fun car for fun and the power quest goes away.

[logan03co]

Originally Posted by Procharged2k3

Turns out the P1SC-H that comes with the Mach 1 kits is purposely designed to be less efficient than the standard P1SC.

Originally Posted by Procharged2k3

I didn't know about the P1SC-H either until yesterday. Turns out the fins on the impeller are cut shorter to lower the efficiency because they were trying to keep the boost down on the higher compression stock Mach engines.

Originally Posted by Procharged2k3

My shop found out directly from Procharger when they were on the phone discussing pulley sizes.

Hmmm...that's odd.

I know there is an impeller difference between the P1SC and the P1SC-1 with the P1SC being the "less efficient" model between them.

"The difference between the P-1SC and the P-1SC-1 is both the impeller and compressor housing. The P-1SC is a straight cut impeller and shares the common street trim 6.25" exducer where the P-1SC-1 is a smaller 5.25" exducer with a helical spun impeller. If you really get into specs you can consider the P-1SC-1 a mini version of the D-1SC impeller. The P-1SC-1 is technically a better supercharger than the P-1SC because of its impeller design. Other than that they are the same. (Bearings, Step-up Ratio, etc)"

Source: Experience with P1SC unit VS P1SC-1


On the other hand, the "-H" designation on the end of the headunit part # according to the Procharger application guide, gains you the helical gear (AKA - quieter) version of the corresponding head-unit & everything else would stay the same.

P1SC-H = Helical gearset P1SC
D1SC-H = Helical gearset D1SC

[Procharged2k3]

Originally Posted by monsterbrad

An automobile like this is NEVER an investment.
Sorry to hear about your troubles.
After many years of going after power myself it comes down to money.
Sometimes its just not worth it!
Buying a race car is what i was thinking then realized that it will never end.
Enjoy a fun car for fun and the power quest goes away.

I didn't mean monetary investment, you're absolutely right about that. I meant investing in your enjoyment factor of the car.

Originally Posted by logan03co

Hmmm...that's odd.

I know there is an impeller difference between the P1SC and the P1SC-1 with the P1SC being the "less efficient" model between them.

"The difference between the P-1SC and the P-1SC-1 is both the impeller and compressor housing. The P-1SC is a straight cut impeller and shares the common street trim 6.25" exducer where the P-1SC-1 is a smaller 5.25" exducer with a helical spun impeller. If you really get into specs you can consider the P-1SC-1 a mini version of the D-1SC impeller. The P-1SC-1 is technically a better supercharger than the P-1SC because of its impeller design. Other than that they are the same. (Bearings, Step-up Ratio, etc)"

Source: Experience with P1SC unit VS P1SC-1


On the other hand, the "-H" designation on the end of the headunit part # according to the Procharger application guide, gains you the helical gear (AKA - quieter) version of the corresponding head-unit & everything else would stay the same.

P1SC-H = Helical gearset P1SC
D1SC-H = Helical gearset D1SC

You're right. That must be it, and I misunderstood about the -H. I just know they did tell us the one in that kit is not as efficient. They must have meant versus the -1.