I have a bad fuel pump again????

[311-420]

First off, like not a gt said, letting the car sit for long periods of time and not driving it is a bad idea for a number of reasons not just for the fuel system. It's a car. Drive it!

Second, you may have used a fuel pump that's not designed for a pulse width modulated (returnless style)fuel system. These pumps have been known to work for a short period of time in our cars and then suddenly die. This may be what happened.

If you determine the pump is bad, you can buy a new Motorcraft SVT Focus pump (part # PFS204) with a new Motorcraft fuel filter on Amazon right now together for $181 shipped. I just bought this combo yesterday so that price should still be accurate today. That pump drops right into the factory basket/hanger of the Mach and can push 255lph at 12V and 40psi versus the stock pump at just 205lph.

Good luck and patience my man! We're here to help.

[mike c]

well since i just put in a new correct pump again its not the pump. should get a new fuel pump driver in like a week. this car fing sucks since new had 2 new heads under warr, new reman motor under warr than a complete motor rebuld out of my pocket $$$$$$$, 2 radios since these cd players suck now broke again, and 2 fuel pumps and car still doesnt run. i have owned a lot of cars new and old and have never had issues like this before and now have so much fing money in the car not worth selling cause these cars are worth nothing since they made them in 04 also!

[DSG2003Mach1]

so its the car's fault you keep replacing the fuel pump when its not the problem?

[mike c]

the 1st pump lasted like 2 years with no issues FYI.

[mike c]

well i replaced the fuel pump driver mod and wow big surprise the car DIDNT START! well it ran for like 2 ****ing secs!

[DSG2003Mach1]

are you getting fuel at the rail now?

[mike c]

nope..... is their a fuel pump relay?? if so where is it.

[DSG2003Mach1]

honestly I would get a volt meter and a friend, start by checking power coming out of the FPDM, before the FPDM, then before the fuel cutoff switch...remember when you turn the key forward you only get power to the FPDM for ~2 seconds.

if you look in threads about doing the power wire upgrade of installing a BAP you can find which color wires are power going into and out of the FPDM...not sure off hand if they will say which wire going into the fuel cutoff switch is the power wire

[mike c]

also jumped out the shut off switch and still didnt work. if i get power out of the mod than what??? just so fed up with this car. never had these problems till i had the motor pulled and rebuilt not by me. even happened to the guy after he put the motor in the car. he said o ya i hit the fuel reset and the car ran fine. DID HE **** SOMETHING UP OR NOT PUT SOMETHING BACK RIGHT??? cause that was like 4 years ago but had this hit and miss problem ever since and now the car doesnt drive at all!!!!

[DSG2003Mach1]

basically I would start with power coming out of the FPDM, if you have power out of the FPDM and are confident in your fuel pump wiring than the problem is something else entirely. If you DONT have power coming out of the FPDM thats when I would check either power coming into the FPDM or out of the fuel pump cutoff (either one, same result). If no power to the FPDM then youd wanna be see if theres power getting to the fuel cut off switch.

basically if youre not getting power you want to see if its one of those items in the trunk or if its time to go look at fuses and relays in the engine bay and look for power going in and out to see if you can find a failed part

the biggest problem with all of this is it being so intermittent.

Knowing that the problem didnt exist until the motor was pulled my immediate thought would be to suspect a loose ground wire or a pinched/shorted wire somewhere

[mike c]

reading code P1233 FPDM DISABLED/OFFLINE. now i did change it cleared the codes still didnt start. plugged the stock one back in still giving me the same code. so how do get the fpdm to go well back online?

[DSG2003Mach1]

Code: P1233 - Fuel System Disabled or Offline

Description: The PCM monitors the fuel pump monitor (FPM) circuit from the fuel pump driver module (FPDM). With the key on, the FPDM continuously sends a duty cycle signal to the PCM through the FPM circuit. The test fails if the PCM stops receiving the duty cycle signal.

Possible Causes:
Inertia fuel shutoff (IFS) switch needs to be reset
Open FPDM ground circuit
Open circuit to FPDM PWR RLY
Open FPDM PWR circuit
Open or shorted FPM circuit (engine should start)
Damaged IFS switch
Damaged FPDM PWR RLY
Damaged FPDM
Damaged PCM
Also for Mustang:
Open B+ circuit to the constant control relay module (CCRM) pin 11
Open ground to CCRM pin 18
Damaged CCRM

Diagnostic Aids: The PCM expects to see one of the following duty cycle signals from the FPDM on the FPM circuit: 1) 50% (500 ms on, 500 ms off), all OK. 2) 25% (250 ms on, 750 ms off), FPDM did not receive a fuel pump (FP) duty cycle command from the PCM, or the duty cycle that was received was invalid. 3) 75% (750 ms ON, 250 OFF), the FPDM has detected a fault in the circuits between the FPDM and the fuel pump.

apparently the CCRM (black box in pass wheel well behind the liner) is the relay for the FPDM. I have read that the CCRM is VERY VERY sensitive to grounds being correct, there are several grounds on the radiator support by the battery on the driver side, make sure theyre all there and all tight.

I would also check that power is going both into and out of that inertia/fuel cutoff switch

http://www.svtperformance.com/forums...ode-P1233-FPDM

[mike c]

wow lol. a lot to check here. i think their has to be a bad ground or wire messed up since it all started after the motor was pulled and rebuilt.

[DSG2003Mach1]

Originally Posted by mike c

wow lol. a lot to check here. i think their has to be a bad ground or wire messed up since it all started after the motor was pulled and rebuilt.

this is my feeling as well, again Id be checking the crap out of those grounds around the battery and making sure they are all there and good (if need be Im sure someone could grab pics, if nothing else I probably can at some point this weekend)

[mike c]

cool thanks. the 2 by the headlights and firewall look fine.

[DSG2003Mach1]

seeing how this issue has come and gone, Id put a socket on those connections and make sure theyre good and snug

[TKat13]

My ground issue was on the passenger side headlight.

[DSG2003Mach1]

Originally Posted by TKat13

My ground issue was on the passenger side headlight.

thanks for pointing that out, I dont recall dealing with that one during my motor swap but doesnt mean someone else wouldnt have

[mike c]

anyone know how many grounds their are in the engine comp and where they would be??? thanks

[mike c]

so is the ccrm the black box with the very large wire harness pass side frt wheel well?

[DSG2003Mach1]

Not sure on the harness color but that sounds like it

[mike c]

do u know of all the grounds in the engine comp??? did a full look today i think they all look good and tight.

[DSG2003Mach1]

Only ones I know for sure are the driver side headlight area and motor to frame those are all I messed with when swapping motors

[mike c]

where is that motor to frame ground??

[DSG2003Mach1]

Driver side at the motor mount goes to the frame rail near where the spring and strut are