Everyone using solid LCA's

[311-420]

Is there an increase in NVH? If so, what increased? Gear noise, driveline vibes, clunking etc?

I've eaten these poly urethane lower control bushings up and i've got to put something back in that will take the abuse.

Thanks in advance.

[systemdz]

I mainly notice when I go over bumps. Easy sacrifice for the increase in traction. Only reason I wouldn't is if it was on a daily driver car. I uses Baseline's solid lowers, relocated uppers and weld in ARB. Very good quality!!!
http://www.baselinesuspensions.com/kits/ford.htm


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[chronomitch]

Anytime you create a more solid connection between the drive train and the chassis, you're going to get more noise. I recently installed some MM Heavy Duty LCAs (spherical bushings on one end), an MM panhard bar, and a beefed up rear axle. I had considerably more road and drive train noise in the cabin.

The solution? I spent the entirety of the past weekend ripping out the interior, installing sound deadening material from Second Skin, and putting everything back together. Although it was a lot of work, it was definitely worth it. Sound levels are lower than stock, and I can listen to music again.

[bluoval]

I've got the CHE LCAs - they are high quality, and the CHE folks are great to deal with. Yes, I hear occasional/additional driveline and tire humming noise, but as others have said mainly over bumps and it's minimal compared to the increase in traction. I also installed their axle brace, and it's a very nice piece as well.

http://www.cheperformance.com/prod-14.htm

[TKat13]

NVH did increase but not at a level that annoys me. I would do it again, no regrets. Very little increase but I kept the stock uppers in place. I hear the uppers really bring in the noise if going solid.

[311-420]

I appreciate the comments guys. Keep them coming. Feel free to elaborate on what NVH you experience most. I'm going solid, I just want to know what to expect and not be surprised. Right now i'm running lowers with heim joints on the rear end housing side and poly on the torque box side. The poly is busted to hell. My driving aka gear banging was too much for the poly.

[311-420]

Has anyone here warped the bolt holes in their torque boxes, or ripped their torque boxes from running the solids? Was it from street use or strip racing?

Anyone weld them up and/or get torque box reinforcement plates?

[systemdz]

I had my torque boxes welded up and added some extra material. My TB was trying to pull apart from the car itself. They are just spot welded from the factory, we put a full bead on them and beefed them up. It's held good so far. The upper are usually the ones that take most of the abuse. Check the welds where they weld to the body for separation. It's an easy way to save yourself a lot of work in the future to just go ahead and fix now while you have everything apart.


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[311-420]

Originally Posted by systemdz

The upper are usually the ones that take most of the abuse. Check the welds where they weld to the body for separation.


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Upper what? Upper portion of the torque boxes?

[systemdz]

Originally Posted by 311-420

Upper what? Upper portion of the torque boxes?

Upper control arm torque box.


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[311-420]

Originally Posted by systemdz

Upper control arm torque box.


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Oh, duh! Brain fart.

[systemdz]

Originally Posted by 311-420

Oh, duh! Brain fart.

[311-420]

Originally Posted by systemdz

I know what you're thinking, and no. It's been years. Straight as an arrow 100% of the time now.


If my car stays a street car and doesn't get launched hard from a stop all the time, should I really worry about the torque boxes or about installing solid uppers? My "plan" right now is to keep the stock uppers and put in solid lowers since the racing I do almost always involves being in motion first. Not really a need for uppers to adjust pinion angle for launching and also don't want any more NVH than is absolutely necessary. I wouldn't even be doing solid lowers if these poly bushings hadn't bit the dust so quickly.

[chronomitch]

Maximum Motorsports doesn't recommend anything other than the stock upper control arms if you're going to stay with the 4-link "quadra-bind" rear suspension and install a panhard bar (highly recommended):

http://www.maximummotorsports.com/st...Path=514_21_98

Alternatively, you could convert to a 3-link rear suspension comprised of RLCAs, a panhard bar, a torque arm, and no upper control arms. This is what I will probably due sometime in the future.

[systemdz]

Originally Posted by 311-420

I know what you're thinking, and no. It's been years. Straight as an arrow 100% of the time now.


If my car stays a street car and doesn't get launched hard from a stop all the time, should I really worry about the torque boxes or about installing solid uppers? My "plan" right now is to keep the stock uppers and put in solid lowers since the racing I do almost always involves being in motion first. Not really a need for uppers to adjust pinion angle for launching and also don't want any more NVH than is absolutely necessary. I wouldn't even be doing solid lowers if these poly bushings hadn't bit the dust so quickly.

Haha. That's a good thing.

As far as your control arms. If your car is just a street car/DD, you'd be better off with what you have. I would just replace your bushings. Solid may be a bit much but for me, I don't really care about vibrations or sounds (coil overs, solid bushings, solid motor and trans mounts) but it's mainly a strip car, occasional street driven.


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[311-420]

Originally Posted by chronomitch

Maximum Motorsports doesn't recommend anything other than the stock upper control arms if you're going to stay with the 4-link "quadra-bind" rear suspension and install a panhard bar (highly recommended):

http://www.maximummotorsports.com/st...Path=514_21_98

Alternatively, you could convert to a 3-link rear suspension comprised of RLCAs, a panhard bar, a torque arm, and no upper control arms. This is what I will probably due sometime in the future.

If I could stomach running dumps, I'd have already done the panhard rear suspension with the torque arm. But I can't, atleast not while the car is a fun street driven car.

[311-420]

Originally Posted by systemdz

Haha. That's a good thing.

As far as your control arms. If your car is just a street car/DD, you'd be better off with what you have. I would just replace your bushings. Solid may be a bit much but for me, I don't really care about vibrations or sounds (coil overs, solid bushings, solid motor and trans mounts) but it's mainly a strip car, occasional street driven.


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I bought these lowers thinking they would be good for my car, and so I bought all new bushings at the beginning of September when I switched out my IRS for the solid. These bushings only have maybe 1k miles at most on them.

I broke the drivers side poly bushing going into 3rd gear. That happened the first couple weeks. Last week I broke the passenger side, again going into 3rd gear. All this using street tires. Not even drag radials.

[systemdz]

[311-420]

Well, to my surprise the lower control arm bushings were still intact. Got under the car yesterday and checked everything out. Torque boxes look good too. Only thing I found were the bolts for the uppers at the torque boxes were a little loose.

I don't know what this sound could be....sounds like something is creaking from back there when taking off...I'm lost because this started after installing the sra and poly/heim joint combo lowers. Any ideas??

[systemdz]

Shock bushings???


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[311-420]

I've also pulled the trunk lining out and checked for the infamous broken spot weld at the accessory tray to the backseat. No luck. The spot welds looked intact.

[311-420]

Originally Posted by systemdz

Shock bushings???


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Brand new, not even 1k mile Bilstein HD shocks.

[systemdz]

Maybe you just need a louder exhaust. Haha


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[311-420]

Originally Posted by systemdz

Maybe you just need a louder exhaust. Haha


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Lol I'm getting old. What I've got gets on my nerves sometimes already.

[TKat13]

Are you sure your SRA is not rubbing on the exhaust when it squats? I chased down a creaking noise after I installed my new rear end, having a freshly painted rear made it easy to find as it was bare metal in one spot, about the size of a dime. Visually it looked like everything cleared but the rubbing marks proved different. re-adjusted the exhaust (for the 3rd time) and all was good. Creaking went away.