crush sleeve - 2003-04 Mach 1 Registry Owners Club

BT03mach-1 · 12-30-2008, 01:11 PM

Ok we put my rear end back together last night and and i think we made the pre load wrong. The wheels are hard to turn now. So I'm sure we messed the crush sleeve up. we read the installation instructions wrong so... What we should have done was set the preload with only the pinion in. Anyway i think we made it to way to tight. now its all together. tonight I plan on taking the pinion nut off and seal to get to the sleeve of so we can install a new one. Is there anyway to set the preload with out taking it all apart like it should be done? or is there a torque value i could use for the whole assembly? with the wheels and brakes off of course. I really don't want to tear it all apart again unless i really have too. everything else lined up good and the pinion ring and gear lined up good.

Also if i do have to take it all apart again how do you do the axles and s spring? everything i read says that after you pull the pin the axles should push in enough to get the c clips off with the spring in there. well mine don't push in enough to get the clip out.... well one side did after it put up a good fight. then i got the s sring out then the other axle (i used the hose clamps to put the s spring back in and it worked great) but the c clips are a ***** to get back on. is there something else i need to do to get the axles to push in more?

other than having to spend another $40 on fluid and jack with the s-spring/c-clips i don't have a problem redoing it agian. but if there is a way to get out of it i would love to hear it.

Thanks,
Bill

GAAzureMach1 · 12-30-2008, 02:29 PM

The torque setting for proper preload is 15 in/lbs for used bearings and 25 in/lbs for new bearings. ALTHOUGH this is done BEFORE the carrier is mounted in place. You should be able to get the old crushwasher out from the front, but to properly set it up you will need to remove the carrier. I know that is not what you wanted to hear but if you don't get proper preload you will have premature bearing failure. Good luck!

BT03mach-1 · 12-30-2008, 02:36 PM

thats what i figured.... we had hell getting the old races out and then had twice as much hell getting the new one's in. we was tired and didn't pay attention to what we was doing and half *** reading the direction got me here... i should have stopped after i got the races in and went over everything instead of just getting it back to gether like i did.... next rebuild one i will know how and the do's and don't

BT03mach-1 · 12-30-2008, 11:46 PM

well i had to tear it all down. the 2nd time around goes a lot better. the problem was the pinion was not torque down enough. the crush sleeve was almost in its normal shape. I got a new cruch sleeve and put it back together in the right order and torqued everything correct and its perfect. no wine or anything

one mach 1 · 12-31-2008, 12:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BT03mach-1

well i had to tear it all down. the 2nd time around goes a lot better. the problem was the pinion was not torque down enough. the crush sleeve was almost in its normal shape. I got a new crush sleeve and put it back together in the right order and torqued everything correct and its perfect. no wine or anything

Congrats, this is a tedious task!

tr32valve · 12-31-2008, 05:38 AM

How much lash did you end up with? How did you set pinion depth and did you need to change the shims on the carrier?

GAAzureMach1 · 12-31-2008, 07:55 AM

Congrats

BT03mach-1 · 12-31-2008, 08:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tr32valve

How much lash did you end up with? How did you set pinion depth and did you need to change the shims on the carrier?

this was my 1st time so it may not all be right. none of it maybe right so...

I had a bearing on the track lock go bad so i replaced all of the bearings and races... my ring and pinion still looked good. like it was never used so i just left that one in there. so all i did was replace all the bearings/races and seals.

on the pinion you install only the pinion, bearings, seal and hoke. everything from the pinion to the front. tighten the nut till it don't move and till you get 25 inch pounds of torque just by turning the pinion only. i had to keep locking it in place by the yoke and turning it a 1/4 turn then un lock it to check the torque with a dial type torque wrench. once you get around 20 inch pounds it don't take much to get to 25 so you have to just turn it a little and check. and you will need a breaker bar because it does get hard to turn when the yoke is locked. if you go pass 28 you have to start all over. that crush sleeve is no good. i went through 3....

on the carrier i used the same shims. just when you take it apart make sure you keep the right side on the right and the left on the left. everyone said sense i used my same ring and pinion it would be fine..

i hope that made sense lol

tr32valve · 12-31-2008, 08:56 PM

I had done this lots of times. I was just curious how you went about checking the lash. It's real important when setting up a diff.

12-30-2008, 01:11 PM	#1
BT03mach-1 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Friendswood, tx Posts: 531	crush sleeve Ok we put my rear end back together last night and and i think we made the pre load wrong. The wheels are hard to turn now. So I'm sure we messed the crush sleeve up. we read the installation instructions wrong so... What we should have done was set the preload with only the pinion in. Anyway i think we made it to way to tight. now its all together. tonight I plan on taking the pinion nut off and seal to get to the sleeve of so we can install a new one. Is there anyway to set the preload with out taking it all apart like it should be done? or is there a torque value i could use for the whole assembly? with the wheels and brakes off of course. I really don't want to tear it all apart again unless i really have too. everything else lined up good and the pinion ring and gear lined up good. Also if i do have to take it all apart again how do you do the axles and s spring? everything i read says that after you pull the pin the axles should push in enough to get the c clips off with the spring in there. well mine don't push in enough to get the clip out.... well one side did after it put up a good fight. then i got the s sring out then the other axle (i used the hose clamps to put the s spring back in and it worked great) but the c clips are a ***** to get back on. is there something else i need to do to get the axles to push in more? other than having to spend another $40 on fluid and jack with the s-spring/c-clips i don't have a problem redoing it agian. but if there is a way to get out of it i would love to hear it. Thanks, Bill __________________ old 2003 Black Mach-1 Best 12.460 @ 110.15 60' 1.782 new 03 Black Mach-1

12-30-2008, 02:29 PM	#2
GAAzureMach1 Registered User Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Covington, GA Posts: 492	Re: crush sleeve The torque setting for proper preload is 15 in/lbs for used bearings and 25 in/lbs for new bearings. ALTHOUGH this is done BEFORE the carrier is mounted in place. You should be able to get the old crushwasher out from the front, but to properly set it up you will need to remove the carrier. I know that is not what you wanted to hear but if you don't get proper preload you will have premature bearing failure. Good luck! __________________ Todd 03 Azure Mach1 11.08 @ 127 Under the knife 8.5:1 comp soon Crower cams soon Whipple conversion soon 04 Cobra Fuel Tank & Pumps done 4R75W 2500 stall soon 4.30 Gears done Detroit Locker done 31 Spline Moser Axles done Weld axle tubes, battle boxes done Ford Racing Catback done Bassani X-Pipe done Bassani Midlengths done

12-30-2008, 02:36 PM	#3
BT03mach-1 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Friendswood, tx Posts: 531	Re: crush sleeve thats what i figured.... we had hell getting the old races out and then had twice as much hell getting the new one's in. we was tired and didn't pay attention to what we was doing and half *** reading the direction got me here... i should have stopped after i got the races in and went over everything instead of just getting it back to gether like i did.... next rebuild one i will know how and the do's and don't __________________ old 2003 Black Mach-1 Best 12.460 @ 110.15 60' 1.782 new 03 Black Mach-1

12-30-2008, 11:46 PM	#4
BT03mach-1 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Friendswood, tx Posts: 531	Re: crush sleeve well i had to tear it all down. the 2nd time around goes a lot better. the problem was the pinion was not torque down enough. the crush sleeve was almost in its normal shape. I got a new cruch sleeve and put it back together in the right order and torqued everything correct and its perfect. no wine or anything __________________ old 2003 Black Mach-1 Best 12.460 @ 110.15 60' 1.782 new 03 Black Mach-1

12-31-2008, 05:38 AM	#6
tr32valve Registered User Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Manchester, NH Posts: 41	Re: crush sleeve How much lash did you end up with? How did you set pinion depth and did you need to change the shims on the carrier?

12-31-2008, 07:55 AM	#7
GAAzureMach1 Registered User Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Covington, GA Posts: 492	Re: crush sleeve Congrats __________________ Todd 03 Azure Mach1 11.08 @ 127 Under the knife 8.5:1 comp soon Crower cams soon Whipple conversion soon 04 Cobra Fuel Tank & Pumps done 4R75W 2500 stall soon 4.30 Gears done Detroit Locker done 31 Spline Moser Axles done Weld axle tubes, battle boxes done Ford Racing Catback done Bassani X-Pipe done Bassani Midlengths done

12-31-2008, 08:56 PM	#9
tr32valve Registered User Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Manchester, NH Posts: 41	Re: crush sleeve I had done this lots of times. I was just curious how you went about checking the lash. It's real important when setting up a diff.

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