Aluminator

[mach1_03]

Originally Posted by Blkmjk

N/A with a P-1SC procharger.

More reason to think its the FI Longblocks with the timing clearance problem.

What numbers are making on the aluminator (how many lbs) this is the most likely setup im going for (although i keep flopping back between this and N/A)

[Blkmjk]

Dont have any new numbers yet, but I do plan on taking in back in to get the tune re-checked/tweaked real soon.

[blown03Mach1]

Ok, so it appears that I am not getting anyone to offer me what I want for my car, so I am starting to look at new motor options if I keep it. I am looking at the N/A Aluminator long block and throwing a D-1 on it after the warranty would expire. To me this setup is really no different that running the stock motor with the P-1, but making more power and a degree more of reliability do to being forged. My end goal would be to pull out a 10 second street car making 550-625 rwhp with this setup and live for several years.

I in turn would sell my long block and my P-1 setup to help fund this.

What are your thoughts on my perspective with this combo?

[Scott McClure]

Please give John @ Modularperformance a call first. I'm not telling you to spend any money but just go over with him what your goals are. Cant hurt to hear what he has to say. You could have a stronger motor for less money.

[blown03Mach1]

Originally Posted by Scott McClure

You could have a stronger motor for less money.

So you are saying that I can have a bulit long block delivered for under $5.5k and that is not sending in any of my parts? Or are you talking about shippping my motor out and having it built?

[deepshadgray03]

Originally Posted by vertigyn

Here's my question: I have the 2.1 KB on my stock Mach 1 motor. I'm looking at the 8.5 engine for my next one so I can turn up the boost. What else should I know/need to have everything needed to install the 8.5 supercharged crate motor in my Mach?

HOW DO YOU LIKE THE KB? IM INTERESTED IN IT...AS WELL AS ANYTHING THAT MAKES MORE HP AND TQ.......

[vertigyn]

Originally Posted by deepshadgray03

HOW DO YOU LIKE THE KB? IM INTERESTED IN IT...AS WELL AS ANYTHING THAT MAKES MORE HP AND TQ.......

So far so good! I've been very pleased and the stock bottom end is still holding up...although I do have a bare block being prepped for the future as I'm not sure the Aluminator is worth the money (So far it's looking like I can choose all my name brand internals and parts and still be slightly cheaper than the Aluminator).

I'm running 8.5psi and have 475rwhp and around 450ish tq. Timing is only at 14* and has a "safe" tune on it (I am running an aftermarket crank pulley, though - with the stock crank pulley it made 430/400 until the pulley seperated).

I did snap an axle last weekend though... =(

Everyone really talks up the KB and how impressive the changes are when you get it. So I had really high hopes of throw you in the back of your seat torque and thoughts like that. At first I was disapointed in the KB as I didn't think it did all those things, but the more I drive it - the more amazed and pleased I am with it! I would never go back or a different route (except maybe use a terminator front dress set up instead of another pulley in the mach 1 system).

[Scott McClure]

Originally Posted by vertigyn

I'm not sure the Aluminator is worth the money (So far it's looking like I can choose all my name brand internals and parts and still be slightly cheaper than the Aluminator).

Something I've been preaching.

[blown03Mach1]

Ok, there comes a time in your life when you do something for convenience vs cost. I am 100% sure that you could build your own motor cheaper.... Well maybe not. Lets see, stripping the motor down, buying all new hardware, machining the block, having the old heads worked, crank turned, using the old pump, old cams, old springs, old valves, old chains, old chain tensioners, old chain guides...etc..etc... Unless you plan on buying new for all of that, but there goes your cheaper route. Building your own will nickel and dime you to death with all the little bits and pieces and I am not convinced it can be done cheaper with all NEW parts. New being the key word and carry a 12k mile or 12 month warranty.

Is it the BEST motor you can buy for the money? Probably not, but IMHO it is a great option. Plus those who go this route can sell their current long block if it is still intact. If I can sell my long block for say $2K then I only end up spending $3.5k for a new forged long block w/ a warranty.

Again I say show me a built long block with ALL new parts for less than $5.5k shipped to my house.

[Linumup]

Originally Posted by blown03Mach1

Ok, there comes a time in your life when you do something for convenience vs cost. I am 100% sure that you could build your own motor cheaper.... Well maybe not. Lets see, stripping the motor down, buying all new hardware, machining the block, having the old heads worked, using the old pump, and the assembly...

Is it the BEST motor you can buy for the money? Probably not, but IMHO it is a great option. Plus those who go this route call sell their current long block if it is still intact. If I can sell my long block for say $2K then I only end up spending $3.5k for a new forged long block w/ a warranty.

Again I say show me a built long block for less than $5.5k using all new parts so I can sell my current long block.

No doubt about it Convenience vs. Cost !

Couldnt agree more .

You will be happy you kept it , it was just too clean to give it away .

[TRMach1]

Originally Posted by blown03Mach1

Ok, there comes a time in your life when you do something for convenience vs cost. I am 100% sure that you could build your own motor cheaper.... Well maybe not. Lets see, stripping the motor down, buying all new hardware, machining the block, having the old heads worked, crank turned, using the old pump, old cams, old springs, old valves, old chains, old chain tensioners, old chain guides...etc..etc... Unless you plan on buying new for all of that, but there goes your cheaper route. Building your own will nickel and dime you to death with all the little bits and pieces and I am not convinced it can be done cheaper with all NEW parts. New being the key word and carry a 12k mile or 12 month warranty.

Is it the BEST motor you can buy for the money? Probably not, but IMHO it is a great option. Plus those who go this route can sell their current long block if it is still intact. If I can sell my long block for say $2K then I only end up spending $3.5k for a new forged long block w/ a warranty.

Again I say show me a built long block with ALL new parts for less than $5.5k shipped to my house.

I'm with you on this one! When I decided to go the Kenne Bell route, I was originally planning on just installing the blower on my stock motor. The more I thought about it though, the more it seemed that wouldn't be the smartest thing to do, placing a blower on a 60k mile motor just seemed like it might be a recipe for disaster down the road. The Aluminator long block looked like just what I needed. A little more than a month after dropping the car off, all that's left is to load the "break-in" tune and I'm in business with a fully forged, FI motor with a warranty. I was at the shop yesterday as they were loading the base fuel trims and such, and that thing was purring along beautifully! At this point, I have no regrets with my decision, and if I had to do it over again, I would probably do the same thing, and I would recommend it for anyone considering doing something like this.

[vertigyn]

Convenience is a big plus on the side of the Aluminator...I am still considering it - just haven't decided yet =)