bolt on Mach dyno #'s

[SparksMach1]

So i recently had my Mach Dyno Tuned.... and i expected a lot more out of the car than what i got, here are the mods,
3/8 inch upper intake spacer
K&N Cold Air Kit
MRT catted H pipe
magnaflow magnapack catback
aluminum driveshaft
4:10 gears
MGW shorty shifter
diablosport tuner
royal purple in the crankcase

#'s on the DYNOJET

295.6 RWHP
316.5 RWT

I had the car dyno tuned by denny at Anderson Motorsports in Clinton Illinois, he said that if he kept adding timing(or getting rid of it, one of the two) that the car would start detonating... i would just feel better about the car if it was over 300 to the wheels. ill try to scan the dyno sheets sometime soon, i just moved into the new place and its a disaster area right now.

i was expecting at LEAST 300 or 310 to the wheels with the dyno tune. With the mods does that seem low to you guys? im planning to change over my ignition system next with some better plugs and an MSD distributor. is there anything else i can do to get my car into the 300RWHP range?

[TR04MACH]

The numbers look about right to me. There seem to be so many inflated numbers floating around the forums so I wouldn't worry about that. If you want over 300 grab some headers, that'll get you a good bit more. Your 4.10s probably hurt your numbers a little bit too. Overall i'd be happy with them, get to the track for the real numbers.

[ScreaminMachOne]

We dont have a distributor, Those numbers arent bad, go to the track for some real numbers

[nasty04mach1]

I need to get a dyno tune. I agree the track numbers matter more than a dyno number....sometimes anyway :)

[Shinigami]

I have similar mods, just a catted X and Borla stinger catback. and stock driveshaft.

one a Land&sea dyno I made 295/330, and on a Mustang Dyno I made 300/332. SO your not looking bat at all. another dyno may have given you the 300.

If you move to a JLT intake, and put on aluminum flywheel you migth make it.

What is your air/fuel? I know all cars are different but my car could take 12.8 A/F with 28*(a lot consider that to be **** good) timing. If you are doing liek 13.0-13.2 you may be able to pull the a/f to 12.8 and add that tiny bit of timing in.

[SparksMach1]

yeah Danny at Anderson Ford tried the 12.8 a/f with a little more advanced timing, but he and another guy in the parking lot could hear the car predetonating, so he retarded the timing a little bit and pushed the A/F back to around 13.0-13.2. i plan to get to the track this saturday, so i will definately keep you guys posted. Thanks for the reassurance that the car is about average haha...
-Mark

[SparksMach1]

I have similar mods, just a catted X and Borla stinger catback. and stock driveshaft.

one a Land&sea dyno I made 295/330, and on a Mustang Dyno I made 300/332. SO your not looking bat at all. another dyno may have given you the 300.

If you move to a JLT intake, and put on aluminum flywheel you migth make it.

What is your air/fuel? I know all cars are different but my car could take 12.8 A/F with 28*(a lot consider that to be **** good) timing. If you are doing liek 13.0-13.2 you may be able to pull the a/f to 12.8 and add that tiny bit of timing in.

sorry for the double post, but what is the difference between the K&N intake and the JLT intake? and why would the JLT give me that much of a difference?

[DSG2003Mach1]

we dont know correction factors or anything else...i wouldnt worry about it, you're right in the normal range imho

[Shinigami]

JLT is a bigger free'r flowing intake. me and another mach1 dyno'd the same day, same A/F, same timing, same mods, only he had the JLT and I had the K&N, he made 5whp/3tq more

[one mach 1]

So i recently had my Mach Dyno Tuned.... and i expected a lot more out of the car than what i got, here are the mods,
3/8 inch upper intake spacer
K&N Cold Air Kit
MRT catted H pipe
magnaflow magnapack catback
aluminum driveshaft
4:10 gears
MGW shorty shifter
diablosport tuner
royal purple in the crankcase

#'s on the DYNOJET

295.6 RWHP
316.5 RWT

I had the car dyno tuned by denny at Anderson Motorsports in Clinton Illinois, he said that if he kept adding timing(or getting rid of it, one of the two) that the car would start detonating... i would just feel better about the car if it was over 300 to the wheels. ill try to scan the dyno sheets sometime soon, i just moved into the new place and its a disaster area right now.

i was expecting at LEAST 300 or 310 to the wheels with the dyno tune. With the mods does that seem low to you guys? im planning to change over my ignition system next with some better plugs and an MSD distributor. is there anything else i can do to get my car into the 300RWHP range? IMHO, take it to the track and get a twelve second timeslip. Then you can brag about your car doing twelves with less than 300rwhp! This is why I hate dyno's.:concerned

[SparksMach1]

IMHO, take it to the track and get a twelve second timeslip. Then you can brag about your car doing twelves with less than 300rwhp! This is why I hate dyno's.:concerned

haha nice.... yeah im definately going to go to the track this weekend, as long as the weather holds out *knock on wood* stupid maryland and rain.

[Fenixfire]

Change out your H pipe for an X pipe and you might get to 300rwhp or at least close, but you will definitely get more power from an X pipe.

[SparksMach1]

Change out your H pipe for an X pipe and you might get to 300rwhp or at least close, but you will definitely get more power from an X pipe.

Hey, I think im actually going to go with an O/R Prochamber, since i dont have to worry about emissions or anything like that. I'll just throw the prochamber on for cruises and track times, because i think the o/r pipe would be rediculously loud for everyday driving. thanks for the input!