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Old 06-04-2004, 08:37 PM   #1
Mach1Canuck
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Hanging/Slow dropping RPM FIX inside.

Difficulty (1-10): 3
Time Required: 1 hour
Equipment: Socket set, .5square feet of 1/32" aluminum sheetmetal, tin snips



This is for anyone that doesn't like when the RPM's that are slow to drop or even rise slightly when you push the clutch in to shift. Another symptom, is that when cruising in a higher gear and you let your foot off the gas, the car almost cruises on its own for a bit.

First, understand the problem. The engine is recieving too much air through the IAC valve. From my knowledge Ford did this for emissions reasons.

As a side effect of this fix, when you downshift, the car burbles a lot more, sounds like a carburated engine. You get a little more engine braking effect.

The FIX:
Most older mustangs have an external IAC valve. Meaning that it is easy to find, follow a small air hose (1/2" ID) to a silver cylinder thing on your intake (the IAC solenoid). Once you found it, the older fix was to buy a 1/2" copper pipe cap, drill out a small hole, insert this into the line the restrict air flow through the IAC, and your done.
The Mach has a slightly different setup.
We have an INTERNAL IAC air supply. Meaning that there is no hose leading to it.

To find your IAC valve, first remove your entire shaker assembly from your car.

Next, look between your intake and the firewall, there should be a silver cylinder shaped object with 2 bolts leading to your intake.

Remove the two bolts and move this assembly.

You should see the following, the IAC assembly has two "ports" with the solenoid controlling the air flow between these two ports, what we want to accomplish is to restrict the airflow leading through this.

To do this, there should be a small gasket on your intake, or it could be stuck to the IAC valve.

Remove this (carefully)

Trace out the shape of this gasket as well as the holes for mounting bolts, and the two airholes, onto a piece of 1/32" aluminum or something similar.

Cut out the outline of this "restrictor plate" from the aluminum.

Cut out the holes for your bolts to go through.

Cut out a single one of the Air holes.
Now the tricky part. You have to decide how big to make the other hole because this determines the amount of air you are restricting.

The smallest you should go would be around 5/32", the worst case if you go to small is your car will stall when fix is complete, if this happens just take the plate out, make the hole bigger, and check that.
The hole I used is around 9/32" which is about the medium you would want to go.

After your "restricter plate" is cut out, mount it with the small hole on the passenger side of the IAC, and make sure to replace the gasket against the intake.
Start your car, you should notice the RPMs drop when you start back to normal very quickly.
If it idles smoothly, try putting turning on the AC, this will load the engine down.
If your car stalls out, remove the plate, make the hole bigger, try again.
If still idling smoothly, bolt your shaker back on, take it for a spin. You might need to adjust your driving/clutching style after being used to the crappy RPM hang, so don't be discouraged.
Also, you might want to disconnect your battery during the procedure to make your computer relearn it tweaks after you finish.

If, after you start the car you notice a "whistling" sound, then take a look at your plate, make sure the BIG hole is at least as big as the hole on the IAC valve. ALso make sure edges of holes are rounded (sharp edges are bad), and the holes are round. This happened on mine, and I fixed it.


Any questions, please post here.



Please don't yell at me if you break your car, you accept that you are trying this at your own risk. It works on mine, but your mileage may vary.
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2003 Mustang Mach 1
Torch Red, 5-Speed
w/ IUP

Steeda Tri-Ax
Steeda Sport Springs
UPR Adjustable LCA's
Offset Urethane Rack Bushings
Maximum Motorsports Full Length SFC's
Ford Racing 4.10 Ring/Pinion
JLT CAI
Ported/Polished TB/Upper Intake
PHP Intake Spacer
NGK TR6 Plugs, Gapped @ .050
MAC O/R Prochamber
Borla Stinger Exhaust
SCT Custom Tune

Last edited by Mach1Canuck; 06-05-2004 at 12:39 AM.
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Old 06-05-2004, 06:47 PM   #2
hamradioextra
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Re: Hanging/Slow dropping RPM FIX inside.

Quote:
Originally posted by Mach1Canuck
Difficulty (1-10): 3
Time Required: 1 hour
Equipment: Socket set, .5square feet of 1/32" aluminum sheetmetal, tin snips



This is for anyone that doesn't like when the RPM's that are slow to drop or even rise slightly when you push the clutch in to shift. Another symptom, is that when cruising in a higher gear and you let your foot off the gas, the car almost cruises on its own for a bit.

First, understand the problem. The engine is recieving too much air through the IAC valve. From my knowledge Ford did this for emissions reasons.

As a side effect of this fix, when you downshift, the car burbles a lot more, sounds like a carburated engine. You get a little more engine braking effect.

The FIX:
Most older mustangs have an external IAC valve. Meaning that it is easy to find, follow a small air hose (1/2" ID) to a silver cylinder thing on your intake (the IAC solenoid). Once you found it, the older fix was to buy a 1/2" copper pipe cap, drill out a small hole, insert this into the line the restrict air flow through the IAC, and your done.
The Mach has a slightly different setup.
We have an INTERNAL IAC air supply. Meaning that there is no hose leading to it.

To find your IAC valve, first remove your entire shaker assembly from your car.

Next, look between your intake and the firewall, there should be a silver cylinder shaped object with 2 bolts leading to your intake.

Remove the two bolts and move this assembly.

You should see the following, the IAC assembly has two "ports" with the solenoid controlling the air flow between these two ports, what we want to accomplish is to restrict the airflow leading through this.

To do this, there should be a small gasket on your intake, or it could be stuck to the IAC valve.

Remove this (carefully)

Trace out the shape of this gasket as well as the holes for mounting bolts, and the two airholes, onto a piece of 1/32" aluminum or something similar.

Cut out the outline of this "restrictor plate" from the aluminum.

Cut out the holes for your bolts to go through.

Cut out a single one of the Air holes.
Now the tricky part. You have to decide how big to make the other hole because this determines the amount of air you are restricting.

The smallest you should go would be around 5/32", the worst case if you go to small is your car will stall when fix is complete, if this happens just take the plate out, make the hole bigger, and check that.
The hole I used is around 9/32" which is about the medium you would want to go.

After your "restricter plate" is cut out, mount it with the small hole on the passenger side of the IAC, and make sure to replace the gasket against the intake.
Start your car, you should notice the RPMs drop when you start back to normal very quickly.
If it idles smoothly, try putting turning on the AC, this will load the engine down.
If your car stalls out, remove the plate, make the hole bigger, try again.
If still idling smoothly, bolt your shaker back on, take it for a spin. You might need to adjust your driving/clutching style after being used to the crappy RPM hang, so don't be discouraged.
Also, you might want to disconnect your battery during the procedure to make your computer relearn it tweaks after you finish.

If, after you start the car you notice a "whistling" sound, then take a look at your plate, make sure the BIG hole is at least as big as the hole on the IAC valve. ALso make sure edges of holes are rounded (sharp edges are bad), and the holes are round. This happened on mine, and I fixed it.


Any questions, please post here.

Please don't yell at me if you break your car, you accept that you are trying this at your own risk. It works on mine, but your mileage may vary.
Mach1Canuck,

Works like a charm. Thanks for the info.

Made a nice, short and easy project for a Saturday morning.

I have an automatic but never the less, really hated the hanging RPMs when starting up. All fixed now.

David <><
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Old 06-05-2004, 07:09 PM   #3
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Interesting. I'll keep this in mind. I really haven't noticed any hanging RPM's with my car.:THUMBSUP:
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Old 06-05-2004, 08:09 PM   #4
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Where and what type of aluminum are you buying to make the template? What tools are you using as well?
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Old 06-05-2004, 08:47 PM   #5
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Question: The dealership fixed my hanging RPM issue and mu Mach runs according to spec's. However, by doing this mod you've detailed above, will it cause a normal running engine's RPM's to drop quicker than they do today? I might consider this mod if it will make the throttle more responsive by dropping the RPM's quicker after revving it up.
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Old 06-05-2004, 10:29 PM   #6
enjracing1
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awesome buddy! as a professional race car driver www.enjracing.com i hate the slow rev drop. this will be great! how fast does it actually come down now?
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Old 06-05-2004, 11:37 PM   #7
Mach1Canuck
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hamradioextra: Thanks! Glad it worked out for you!

SVTSnake: The aluminum I used was 1/32" sheet, you can find it at Pepboys or an autoshop as sheetmetal repair kit.
The tools I used was a socket set to remove the two bolts on the IAC valve, a marker to mark out the gasket on the aluminum, a pair of tin snips to cut out the outline, and a dremel to cut out the holes. As for the template, I use the gasket that is between the valve and intake as the template.

Dawg: Yes it should cause the RPM's to drop a LOT faster, depending on what size hole you cut for the second hole. Like, the RPM's on my car on startup drop to idle immediately, like, start, then boom, they're at 800.

enjracing1: As fast as you want it to, depending on the hole you cut, as I responded to Dawg.

Any more questions guys?
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Old 06-06-2004, 03:20 AM   #8
hamradioextra
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Fast Drop in RPMs

The smaller the hole, the faster the drop. Like Canuck said, get it too small and the engine will not idle properly.

In my case, 9/32 is perfect because with the auto in gear and the A.C. on, the idle is already taxed. Turn the fan on high and the alternator will decrease your RPMs even more.

The manual trannies can probably go one size smaller, depending on the condition of your engine tune up. I tried the smaller size first but didn't like the extremely low RPM on a cold engine. After increasing the size to 9/32, it was perfect, for me.

IMHO, 9/32 is probably the optimum for most of us.

Many people on this site who weren't raised with carburated engines like I was, don't even realize that there is an RPM hang. The earlier EFI engines didn't have this problem either. This has been bugging me regarding the newer, computer controlled cars for a long time.

Glad it's finally over.

Apparently the purpose is to burn all the fuel from the system after letting up on the gas.

Like Canuck said, there is more "Burble" now after letting off on the gas pedal, primarily because the unburned fuel is now leaving small back fire sounds, hence, the Burble sound.

It now sounds like my 70s and 80s cars.

Gotta love it.

BTW, I used a piece of sheet steel for my mod. It really doesn't matter what material you use, as long as it is perfectly flat and strong. Any metal will do.

Again, I want to say, Great Piece of Info from Canuck!!

http://www.mach1registry.org/photopo...500&ppuser=140

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2000 Focus ZTS 5 Spd.
98 Contour 5 Spd.

The rest? Way too many to list during my 60+ years of fun loving, speed loving life.

Last edited by hamradioextra; 06-06-2004 at 03:48 AM.
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Old 06-06-2004, 05:47 AM   #9
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Thank you for that much-awaited mod for the hanging RPM's.
I WILL DEFINITELY TRY IT!!

Tomorrow morning I will be in Pep Boys looking for that 1/32" aluminum plate.

But I can't install it till the end of the next week. Here's why:

Yesterday I took my car to the dealer because of the Hanging and Stuck RPM's issue. They told me they couldn't find anything and that I already had the latest PC calibration. So they decided to leave a Data Recorder in my car for a week to then analyze the data.

So I can't disconnect the battery until they remove the data recorder.

But I know they will still not find anything.
A few months ago, they replaced my TPS, then the IAC, and then some TP wiring harness. No luck! RPM's still hang.

I'm sure this Restrictor Plate will work! It makes a lot of sense.


Thank you very much Mach1Canuck!!!
You're the man!

:THUMBSUP:
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Old 06-06-2004, 08:59 AM   #10
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Old 06-06-2004, 11:37 AM   #11
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I just saved this information onto a word document... Priceless!
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Old 06-06-2004, 07:04 PM   #12
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I already made the Aluminum Restictor Plate.

I bought the aluminum sheet metal at Home Depot.
Also bought a Grinding Point to make those holes with a perfect shape.

It looks like factory made lol

Once again, thank you very much Canuck!

As soon as I install it next week, I will let you know the results.

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Old 06-06-2004, 08:55 PM   #13
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Sweet, hopefully it works out for everyone.
Maybe someone can mass produce these and make some dough?

For the automatic guys, is it just the RPM drop at startup that you noticed after installing?
Or do you get a fair bit more burble when you let off the throttle?
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Maximum Motorsports Full Length SFC's
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Old 06-06-2004, 09:08 PM   #14
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Hey Canuck,

I'm just curious? What do you mean by "It works on mine, but your mileage may vary"?

Can we actually expect the car to spend more gas?

I prepared 2 Restrictor Plates. One with a 9/32 hole and the other plate with a little bit smaller than 9/32. Let's see which one works better for me.
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Old 06-06-2004, 10:05 PM   #15
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By 'Your mileage may vary'. I just mean that you could have different results than me..
I haven't figured out the mileage though, but I am speculating that it will increase slightly, but not enough to really measure.

If you think about it, if it idles lower/returns to idle faster, than it uses less gas right?

Also, you use less gas when you don't want to (letting off throttle, braking)

This is all assuming the engine computer will compensate for the richer condition caused by less bypass air.
Hopefully, it looks at the O2 sensors and lessens the amount of fuel being admitted.
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JLT CAI
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Old 06-06-2004, 11:10 PM   #16
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I would be interested in seeing the A/F change on a dyno with this mod. Am thinking with the computer adjusting for the lesser air (by removing fuel), you may end up lean.
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Old 06-07-2004, 12:18 AM   #17
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I would be interested in this also.
If someone has access to a dyno, would like to see someone who has freshly reset their computer and installed the plate. (computer has not adjusted)
And someone who has driven a while with it on and their computer has made the tweaks.
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Old 06-07-2004, 01:01 AM   #18
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so does teh plate replace teh gasket or go between it. I am interested in trying this.
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Old 06-07-2004, 01:23 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally posted by 03ZincMach1
so does teh plate replace teh gasket or go between it. I am interested in trying this.
This is what I believe:

First the IAC, then the Restrictor Plate, then the gasket, and then the Intake.

But Canuck can tell us for sure.
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Old 06-07-2004, 01:58 AM   #20
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cgg074 has it right. Or at least what *I* did. I think as long as your plate it totally flat, and free from debris, it should make a good seal by itself, I added the gasket on the itake side just to make sure.

If you want to be totally bulletproof, you would want a gasket on either side of the plate, but I think it's overkill...
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UPR Adjustable LCA's
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Maximum Motorsports Full Length SFC's
Ford Racing 4.10 Ring/Pinion
JLT CAI
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PHP Intake Spacer
NGK TR6 Plugs, Gapped @ .050
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Old 06-07-2004, 03:39 AM   #21
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is there not an easier way than fabbing a plate? i am not in shop anymore and do not have access to some tools anymore ( sheetmetal cutter)
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Old 06-07-2004, 03:44 AM   #22
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The problem is, I believe under engine braking or decelleration, a fairly large vaccuum is created in this area. Use anything flimsy and you risk it getting torn apart/sucked into your intake into your engine.

1/32" Aluminum or Tin, is VERY easy to cut, buy a $5 pair of tin snips.. you might not even need those, its just what I had handy.
You could probably whittle the whole thing out with a dremel if you had the time.
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Steeda Sport Springs
UPR Adjustable LCA's
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Maximum Motorsports Full Length SFC's
Ford Racing 4.10 Ring/Pinion
JLT CAI
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NGK TR6 Plugs, Gapped @ .050
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Old 06-07-2004, 05:04 AM   #23
hamradioextra
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Quote:
Originally posted by Mach1Canuck
Sweet, hopefully it works out for everyone.
Maybe someone can mass produce these and make some dough?

For the automatic guys, is it just the RPM drop at startup that you noticed after installing?
Or do you get a fair bit more burble when you let off the throttle?
With my automatic, I notice a fair amount of burble. Really sounds great going through the underpasses.

On the way home from Church today, with over 30 miles on the mod, I really got on the accelerator. I live way out in the country with plenty of open road. I think it is running better. I not only got a chirp going from first to second, which is usual, I got an honest tire squeal that caused me to go sideways a bit.

Ever since putting on after market mufflers several months ago, my car has been running a little rich. Perhaps the computer is leaning out my A/F ratio due to the mod or perhaps it's my imagination. Never the less, it's my story and I'm sticking to it.

David <><
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Most Recent Rides:
03 Mach 1 DSG Automatic
03 Mustang DSG V6 5 Spd.
98 Explorer Sport 5 Spd.
2000 Focus ZTS 5 Spd.
98 Contour 5 Spd.

The rest? Way too many to list during my 60+ years of fun loving, speed loving life.
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Old 06-07-2004, 10:13 AM   #24
enjracing1
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mach1canuck.......... if you are standing in front of the car looking at the motor, is it the left or right side port on the intake that has the small hole cut in the restictor plate? thanks.
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Old 06-07-2004, 10:33 AM   #25
cgg074
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Quote:
Originally posted by enjracing1
mach1canuck.......... if you are standing in front of the car looking at the motor, is it the left or right side port on the intake that has the small hole cut in the restictor plate? thanks.
If you are standing in front of the car looking at the motor, the small hole goes to your left.

About cutting the sheet-metal, go to Home Depot and buy a Aluminum Sheet-Metal Roll. It's cheap and you can cut it with normal scissors.

I took photos of my plates. When I get home from work, I will post them so everyone can see them.
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