Eaton Swap....Part II

[machgsxr]

Obviously, this is a follow up to my other thread. I figure I would leave that one as more of a parts locater thread and this one where the actual swap is getting done.

Eaton, lower intake, i/c, injectors, misc parts, headers 1600
Gas to pick up parts 204.24
Box of misc parts 100
Oil cooler & adapter 150
Cobra tank and pumps 725
Throttle cable 20.09
Cruise cable 16.9
Balancer 162.86
Tensioner, bolts, h/e brackets 200
Misc gaskets 35.68
CAI tube, C&L 95 maf housing and maf meter 100
h/e, fpdm, plugs, fuel line 664
tune 350
i/c tank 200

NOTES:FOR THE LOVE OF ALL POWER, REUSE YOUR STOCK PCM, ECM WIRING. YOUR JUST GOING TO CREATE MORE HEADACHES THAN ANYTHING. JUST EXTEND WHAT IS NOTED AND BE DONE WITH IT. IT'S REALLY NOT THAT HARD.

That's my parts cost list. I can subtract 200 from the header's and that will leave my roughly @ 4328.77 for the swap. Im sure though that I am WAY under that with the selling of some other parts that I have purchased along the way that I already had. That and I didn't waste too much time looking for used parts cheap and just bought new parts.

[machgsxr]

Moving on to the swap now. Note though, most bolts removed I reinstalled after removing the part just to keep track of where they belong and keep from losing them.

Some things that might cause some questioning or problems for you. You will have to remove your underhood blanket and the black plastic shroud around the shaker opening in the hood otherwise it will hit or rub against the IAC valve.

If using the stock mach bumper up front, the cobra stock heat exchanger is a very tight fit. I would be very cautious if upgrading to a larger unit.

If running an aftermarket I/C resevior tank you will have to modify it and drill some hole's in the hood to make it clear. It sits too high and a bolt and that little nipple thing on the cap will hit the hood.

1. DISCONNECT THE BATTERY. Remove and set aside. You can take out the battery tray as well.

Start by taking off the shaker and the shaker brackets. There's 2 hoses that go to the shaker and 2 bolts underneath the shaker. Disconnect the hosing that runs to the filter and lift up on the shaker. Remove the four bolts for the black shaker mount and go ahead and remove that bracket. 2 nuts and 1 bolt for the silver shaker bracket up front and you can set that aside. The cover for the filter can be removed as well, I think it's just one bolt up top. After that I removed the CAI kit I had on. Disconnect the maf connector and loosen the clamp that hold's it to the tb and just remove it as a 1 piece unit.

Next you can do a few different things. I removed the intake first, but Im going to say to drain the fluids first. Drain the oil from just the plug for now followed up by draining the coolant. I drained the coolant from the thermostat housing to keep it from going all over the place.

Jack the car up and put jack stanks under the k by the arm's. (see pic of where I put mine.) Don't go too high up as you will still have to be working from above.

[machgsxr]

At this point go ahead and take off the bumper cover. You will need to anyway's so do it now from leaning up against it and scratching it. Disconnect the fog lights harness. Then it's one screw in front of the tires, two were it bolts up to the fender and one by the latch per side and a push plug from underneath. Pull off straight forward and set aside. The black foamy thing under the cover you can remove as well. It has two rivets holding it in so you can either try drilling them out or just push down on it and break it off. It will still be reusable though as it don't do much really. (I steped on mine and broke it.....by accident.)

Now that you got your coolant drained start taking off the radiator hoses. I took them off piece by piece instead of leaving anything hooked up to the coolant crossover or to the thermostat. Most will be trash as you won't use them but do what you want with them.

Take the four bolts off for the alt. bracket and set it aside. Wiggle the coolant crossover loose, pull out of the heads and set aside. Disconnect the wiring going to the alt. and just lay it off to the side.

[machgsxr]

Now that wiring is off you can loosen the two bolts from the bottom side of the alt. and pull up on it and it should come off. You can leave those 2 bolts where they are for now since you can reuse them when putting the parts for the eaton back on or take them off and just make sure you remember where they go.

Now let's start getting ready to remove the upper intake. Remove the EGR and EGR tube. There's a vacuum hose underneath the T/B that need's to be disconnected. Disconnect the fuel pressure sensor connection, egr sensor, iac, and some other sensor. You can tell what needs to be disconnected when you start looking. Remove the cruise control and throttle cable's from the bracket on top of the intake and set aside.

I believe there's about 8 bolts that need to be removed to remove the upper intake, so go ahead and remove them. You can leave the T/B connected to the intake so don't worry about removing it or the black shaker bracket. Slowly lift up on the intake to make sure that everything is disconnected. It should lift off rather easily. If not double check for any connections or vacuum lines that may be connected.

[machgsxr]

Put a rag underneath the schreider valve and get a small screwdriver and push in the shreider valve thing to release the fuel pressure. After you can get all the air out we can move on.

Before we start messing with the lower intake make sure you have the tool to disconnect the fuel hose from the fuel rail and disconnect it. (See attached pic in first post for proper tool.)

Behind the intake is some rather large wiring harness's. One of them is attached to the intake and need's to be removed.

Disconnect all the fuel injector wiring connections and now you just have ten bolt's to remove to take off the lower intake.

Remove those ten bolts and again, pick up on the intake slowly and make sure nothing get's hung up on anything.

[machgsxr]

Underneath the lower intake you will find two knock sensors. Remove those and disconnect the wiring harness from the back and move it to the front of the motor and out of the valley.

Here come's the fun part. Hopefully you have a die grinder, grinder, and a shop vac. handy.

Start by getting some duct tape/masking tape and tape off the ports. You don't want no particles falling in there while grinding.

Hook up your die grinder and cut the knock sensor bosses as far down as you can get. Follow up over them with the grinder and get them flush with the block. Once you get done with the grinding, get the shop vac and pick up ALL the aluminum filings that you can. Once I did that I hooked up a blower nozzle to the air compressor and blew off the motor, fenders, roof and ground to get rid of the rest of the filings.

At this point, I test fitted the cobra lower intake to make sure it fit into place and check that I had grounded down the bosses enough.

[machgsxr]

If all's good with the cobra lower intake, put the knock sensor wiring harness back in the valley and connect it back in the back.

Go back underneath the car and take off the hose that goes from the oil cooler to the thermostat housing.

Remove the stock oil cooler. It's another 4 bolts.

If you have not removed the thermostat assembly, go ahead and do so at this time.

Next up would be the p/s pump. 4 bolts hold it on to the block and the timing cover.

Remove the plastic housing for the radiator fan. It's held in by two bolts and 1 wiring connection. You have to slide it up and towards the battery tray spot to get it out. Once out, set it aside out of the way to make sure it don't get stepped on.

Your going to HAVE to be CAREFUL with the radiator at this point.

[machgsxr]

Removal of the harmonic balancer I used an impact gun to break loose the bolt that holds it in.

You will need a pulley puller which looks like a chickens foot basically and hook it up to the balancer and remove it slowly with a socket and ratchet.

If you like to make things easier I removed the water pump since I had an electrical one and it's a little different than the stock one. Four bolts and it pulls straight out with a little wiggling.

Remove the power steering pump resivoir and the bracket for it from the timing cover and you can use some tie straps and strap them off to somewhere on the drivers side.

On the passenger side of the block there is the a/c compressor. I didn't remove it completely, but just loosened the 3 bolts enough to let it drop down by about an inch.

There's 4 bolts in the front of the oil pan that screw into the timing cover. Remove those. You may want to try loosening up a few more oil pan bolts to let it drop down in from and make the removal/installation of the timing cover a bit easier. I didn't do it but just a suggestion.

[machgsxr]

Remove all the bolt's for the timing cover from the front that you can see.

With a stock water pump you will not have to take it out. IF you are running a Meziere electric one like I was, you will have some added work in there. You have to take off the waterpump to get the timing cover off. More about this causing problem's later.

You will have to just about remove all the bolts from the valve cover's to be able to lift it up. I used mostly a ratchet, socket, and an extension or two and for the two bottom bolts in the back on each side I used a swivel to get to them.

After you get all those loose and you have removed all the bolts from the front of the timing cover you should be able to work the timing cover off. If it doesn't come off easily double check to make sure nothings holding it in place and tug on it gently working it from top to bottom and back up.

[machgsxr]

Now that you have the stock timing cover off time to install the cobra one.

Clean off the 10 spot's where gasket's go. Head's, oil pan and valve cover corner's.

Make sure they nice and dry so you can put some sealant on those spots.

Put the new timing cover gasket's in place and put some sealant to help hold them in on the edge's.

Start mounting it back into place working it on nice and easy. There's two stud's down by the oil pan that need to be aligned to get it on, so make sure they are going in where they are supposed to.

Once you get it all the way back on go ahead and start reinstalling some bolt's. The top two that go into the heads by intake are some long studs along with the two on the bottom that go by the oil pan. Basically straight down from the top one's. The rest of the bolt's you can reuse your stock bolt's that came out. There's one by the water pump that does not get used though. See pic coming later.

[machgsxr]

Install your harmonic balancer and install the screw down the center. Careful not to tear or rip the timing cover seal.

Install the pulley on the driver's side, large idler on pass. side, and the tensioner as well.

You can now re-install the power steering pump back in place and tighten it down.

Im guessing now would be a good time to re-install the cobra EGR tube since you have some room to wiggle it around to make it go back into place. Reason I say I guess is because both installs that I did, I did the EGR delete on.

Now you can set the lower intake in place without the i/c adapter on(don't forget the gasket's) and install all the screws but with only a few threads on each of them.

Install the coolant crossover and go ahead and bolt it down into place. Lube the oring's or put some sealant on them to insure a good seal.

Now that that's in place go ahead and install the s/c with the i/c bolted up to it onto the lower intake. Go ahead and run all the bolt's down, but not tightened.

Now you install the i/c adapter and the four bolt's that hold it on in place. and tighten them. Make sure you install the nipples that connect it to the i/c.

Now go back and tighten the lower intake down followed up with tightening the s/c down.

Install the cobra injectors with the fuel rail into place and bolt them into place.

[machgsxr]

Now install the mount w/ the idler that replaces the mach stock alternator using the 2 same bolts that came out.

Tighten back up the a/c compressor that was loosened earlier.

Install the inner accessory belt, which is a 6 rib belt.

Next part is the fun one that everybody has problems with, which is the power steering line so close to the lower crank pulley bracket. You will have to do some bending and pulling to make it work.

Install the s/c crank pulley. It turns counter clockwise to install. One bolt holds it on from up top and two nuts that go down on the bottom to the studs sticking out.

Install the upper alt. bracket. For these the four bolts that you need you will have to buy some new ones from Ford or use some generic's from the local parts store.

[machgsxr]

The alternator can go in using the large bolt to hold it into the upper alt. bracket already installed. Do not tighten just yet though.

Install the lower alt. bracket. One bolt hole lines up with the timing cover up top, one goes into the lower crank bracket, and the third bolt hole lines up with the second mounting point from the alt.

Now you can tighten up all these bolts to secure the alt and alt brackets.

The pulley bridge can be installed. It takes a few bolts and a couple nuts to bolt up.

NOTE: IF you have an electric water pump you will need to grind some aluminum off the back of the pulley bridge otherwise it will rub.

After mounting that up you will need to mount the power steering resevoir bracket and dummy mount the resevoir to it.

The hose that use to the resevoir from the p.s. pump will need to be extended by about a foot. I used something I had here at the house and a foot of hose. The bolt that the hose hooks up to at the pump I turned down a bit using a wrench. If not it routes the hose right into the alt.

[machgsxr]

Go ahead and put the p.s. hoses back on with clamps and tighten up the bracket.

Re-install the radiator fan and put back the two screws that hold it in and hook the sensor back up. Again, be careful not to poke the radiator when putting it back in.

If not done so already tighten up the pulley bridge and install the proper idlers on it along with the idler that belongs on the s/c crank pulley mounting bracket.

Next hook up the i/c coolant lines that hug the block. One of the soft lines coming off of it goes to the i/c adapter on the lower intake and the other goes to the i/c resevoir.

[machgsxr]

Now installation of the heat exchanger and hard lines that connect to it.

This is actually pretty simple. Mount the heat exchanger brackets to the heat exchanger.

You will notice in the front of the bumper support there will be some oval slots. That is where the heat exchanger bracket clamps slide into and bolt onto the heat exchanger brackets which hang from the back side of the support. Again becareful not to damage the h/e when installing it.

Connect the hard lines to the heat exchanger and clamp them on.

For the i/c pump bracket to mount, I used two bolts, lockwashers and nut's. It bolts up to the frame rail. I was not able to use Ford OEM parts since the cobra's have mounting tab's there and we don't. I put the bolt in from inside out and held it in place with one finger while I put the bracket on and put the lock washer and nut on with the other hand. Did the same for the other bolt then tighten them up.

Slide i/c pump into place and tighten the clamp bolt up.

The longer hard line from the heat exchanger has the small soft hose that hooks up to the i/c pump. The shorter hard line has the longer soft hose that hooks up to the lower hard lines that come from the block. Then obviously the line that comes out of the i/c pump goes to the other hard line from the block.

[machgsxr]

Once all that is hooked up you can hook up your i/c pump pigtail. One wire I grounded right above the air filter where there's already a ground wire.

The other wire I soldiered into the wiring harness back by the firewall in the passenger side. It's the all RED wire on top towards the front of the car. Put some heat shrink over it and tape it up real good.

Since were on wiring let's finish all of it up.

Grab your maf meter connector and cut the two outside wires as close to the connection as you can get. Get the iat sensor connector and use those two wires and soldier them to that connection. It will get plugged into the cai tube.

*OPTION* If you can get the connector for the iat2 sensor on the back of the s/c you will use the two wires closer to the s/c(the inside wires) and soldier them into the two wire cut from the maf connection. Grey with red goes to the wire closest to the blower (SIG RTN). The all grey wire goes to the 2nd wire from the blower(IAT2). It reads temperature post blower which they say will help get a safer tune from.

The alternator pigtail that I got came with about a foot of wire. I cut the 3 wires about 5" shorter.

Those 3 wires, I used to extend my IAC valve harness. Without them your about 3" too short. It's a simple cut and soldier procedure. Just don't get the wires criss crossed. When you soldier the new wires in make sure you get the same colors soldiered back together.

You will need to get some more wire to extend the dpfe sensor that is on the drivers side of the s/c. Same thing like the IAC, don't get the wires criss crossed.

What I did to get enough wire for the alt. was splice open the harness where the wires were in down to corner of the block and head by the upper alternator bracket. Pulled the wires out to there and used some electrical tape to tape up the old harness and run it back like it belongs.

Be real careful when doing this alternator wiring. I will try and get a pic of it, but the wires can go a few different way's. If not hooked up properly you will run into problems. The middle wire from the pigtail is not used since the white wire is a dead wire.

See attachements for cobra pinout. Thanks to eatonmach for posting the ford wiring diagrams.

[machgsxr]

Get inside the car and remove the throttle cable from the pedal and pull it out from the engine compartment. Install the new wire the same the old one came out.

Now go to the drivers side front fender and pull the 3 or 4 black push clips from the inner fender and pull it down. It does not have to come down all the way but enough to get in back by the door where the C.C. control cable is. Pretty simple to take out. It just has a small little clip that you need to push up on with a screwdriver and push it out forward. Up in the engine compartment it has a black plastic holder that holds it against the firewall. Go ahead and pull it out since the new one comes with that plastic thing. Pull it out and install the new one and run it back into the engine compartment and hook it back into the module.

Push the inner fender back up and put the clips back in to hold it up.

Go ahead and bolt the plenum and t/b up and tighten up and install the cables throught the bracket on the eaton.

Install the CAI tube, maf and air filter on and secure. Hook up the iat connection that you soldiered on ot the cai tube. (IAT sensor is right by the passenger side fender)

The mach's have 2 nuts that are made onto the radiator support on the pass. side which the i/c resevoir will bolt onto. Connect the hoses and clamp them on then bolt it down.

Hook up the radiator hoses, the thermostat housing and install all clamps. For the one long radiator hose going down the front of the engine, I used a tire wire to pull it towards the fan and away from the s/c crank pulley.

Re-install you stock coolant tank and hook up the hoses and clamp them down.

[machgsxr]

Now to hooking up the EGR and vacuum hoses. If you got the cobra vacuum cluster it pretty much lines everything up for you.

If you did the EGR delete, see pics for what is hooked up, what is plugged and what is removed.

ADD OIL BACK INTO YOUR ENGINE.

Double check all your work to make sure nothing got left loose, unplugged, disconnected and whatnot.

Triple check and think for a few minutes to make sure you got everything done right.

Install the battery tray back into place and tighten back down then put the battery in place and connect it back up.

This is the point where I went ahead and tried starting my car to check and make sure I had no problems and that the car would start. I start it and let it run for about a minute. This is where I noticed I had a major oil leak from my valve cover which I had taken off just to see the 4v motor. After fixing that problem I did it again and no leaks so problem solved and it sounded good. Time to finish it up.

[machgsxr]

Add coolant to the i/c reservoir then turn on the key, but do not start the car. Your pump should be pumping now (You will hear it spinning) and you will need to add fluid to keep the i/c tank full. You will see the water pumping into the tank from the hose that comes from the s/c. If you have the i/c lines hooked up right it will start pumping right away. If not, you may have a line crossed or your pump may be bad. I would start by checking your lines first though.

Next, you will need to add coolant back into your engine and burp it.

After that I re-installed my bumper, headlights and anything else I had taken off during the swap. Pretty much it's just working backwards from taking it off.

YOUR SWAP IS COMPLETE. I drove my car around the block a time or two and got it tuned the next day.

[machgsxr]

YAY. I ded it!

[machgsxr]

couple more for just incase.

[machgsxr]

blah.

[machgsxr]

wow. I get the whole first page.

[Reloaded]

All I see are a bunch of dumb posts? WTF??

Haha nah I'm just kidding. *Eagerly awaiting the spots to be filled!*

[Shinigami]

I think this thread is what your sig was created for LOL