Eaton Swap vs Cobra Motor Swap

[ZincShaker]

I've read a lot about the eaton swap, aside from the added weight of the iron block are there any disadvantages to the cobra motor? To put the cobra motor in would you then need a cobra computer and harness? or is the mach one still fine? Also would our 5 spd bolt right up or is it best to find one with the trans as well?

How much could I get for my mach motor with just under 10,000 miles?

Thanks

[Fenixfire]

When people talk about an eaton swap they dont mean the whole cobra motor too......They mean the eaton itself and all the supporting mods for it to work.....Eaton, heat exchanger, intercooler, front pulley system, etc.....You dont HAVE to get a cobra motor to do it. Why would you want to? Adding more weight to the front end and it would cost you more than just taking your mach motor and forging the bottom end.

[ZincShaker]

I always thought forging our bottom end was expensive because people always say you're better off buying the aluminator. Any idea what that costs?

I know the swap is just tearing the stock mach motor down and swaping the front timing cover and back up, but i just figured why not just try and find a cobra motor that is already forged and then sell my stock motor.

[Fenixfire]

Originally Posted by ZincShaker

I always thought forging our bottom end was expensive because people always say you're better off buying the aluminator. Any idea what that costs?

I know the swap is just tearing the stock mach motor down and swaping the front timing cover and back up, but i just figured why not just try and find a cobra motor that is already forged and then sell my stock motor.

I dont see how. The best price you can get on an aluminator is $4500 shipped to your door. My mechanic out here can forge a mach motor with the same manley forged pistons and manley forged h beam rods found in the cobra motor and add arp head studs, main bolts and fasteners throughout(which the cobra or aluminator dont have) all for around $2500 bucks and thats including labor. You still have $2000 dollars left over to buy all the stuff for the eaton swap.

If you buy an aluminator you are spending $4500 bucks for a motor but you arent getting the supercharger OR its accessories to go with it. So what sounds better to you? $4500 for a fully forged mach motor that is good for 1000 hp(just ask linumup), will have better weight transfer than a cobra motor and have the eaton swap OR about $6500 bucks for an aluminator and the eaton swap OR AT LEAST $6500 for an 03/04 cobra motor and eaton already on it that isnt even as strong as what you have(no arp hardware) all while being heavier.

[ZincShaker]

I definitley agree with you. I never understood it either, just figured there had to be some reasoning to it. I guess not though. I didn't know you could build the lower end for that much including labor.

I'm just trying to figure out the best way to do things before pulling the trigger.

[Mach1Marauder]

Originally Posted by Fenixfire

I dont see how. The best price you can get on an aluminator SHORT BLOCK is $4500 shipped to your door. My mechanic out here can forge a mach motor with the same manley forged pistons and manley forged h beam rods found in the cobra motor and add arp head studs, main bolts and fasteners throughout(which the cobra or aluminator dont have) all for around $2500 bucks and thats including labor. You still have $2000 dollars left over to buy all the stuff for the eaton swap.

If you buy an aluminator SHORT BLOCKyou are spending $4500 bucks for a motor but you arent getting the supercharger OR its accessories to go with it. So what sounds better to you? $4500 for a fully forged mach SHORT BLOCK motor that is good for 1000 hp(just ask linumup), will have better weight transfer than a cobra motor and have the eaton swap OR about $6500 bucks for an aluminator SHORT BLOCK and the eaton swap OR AT LEAST $6500 for an 03/04 cobra motor and eaton already on it that isnt even as strong as what you have(no arp hardware) all while being heavier.

Fixed!

Did you ask him his goals? First thing bubba!
ARP hardware isn't going to do him a bit of good if he isn't taking him to a level where he would need them. IF he's not taking it to that level, then the head studs would cause an addition expense of re-torquing the studs after well heat cycling them.
$4500 is a bit low for a quality SHORT BLOCK that can handle 1000 RWHP
Also you MIGHT be able to get a built SHORT BLOCK based on his stock block for $2500, but it would be close with machining AND not prolly withbalancing.

I'm just making sure you talk apples to apples with the terminology and to keep things in prospective.

[ZincShaker]

Not looking for anything too crazy. I am leaning towards the eaton swap. My only worry is the internals. I know as long as you stay under 450rwhp you are in the "safe" zone, but I just figure instead of having mine bulit maybe try and find a cobra motor possibly with the t-56. I'm not too worried about the weight. Isn't it only 100 pounds. More of a street car than strip. I guess I just don't want to through the eaton on the stock motor because everyone on here says you always want more and I'm sure I wouldn't be any different. Probably 500 rwhp would be the highest I would care to go.

[Fenixfire]

Originally Posted by Mach1Marauder

Fixed!

Did you ask him his goals? First thing bubba!
ARP hardware isn't going to do him a bit of good if he isn't taking him to a level where he would need them. IF he's not taking it to that level, then the head studs would cause an addition expense of re-torquing the studs after well heat cycling them.
$4500 is a bit low for a quality SHORT BLOCK that can handle 1000 RWHP
Also you MIGHT be able to get a built SHORT BLOCK based on his stock block for $2500, but it would be close with machining AND not prolly withbalancing.

I'm just making sure you talk apples to apples with the terminology and to keep things in prospective.

Ya I should have asked him his goals....haha. See I like to OVERBUILD things, lol. Whether Im gonna need it or not, I dont care. If I want to only make 500 rwhp I want it built for 800 rwhp. Thats just me. I forget not everyone thinks like me though. And yes....shortblock, because I wasnt talking about any headwork......other than the head studs...

[rich1]

Originally Posted by Mach1Marauder

Fixed!

Did you ask him his goals? First thing bubba!
ARP hardware isn't going to do him a bit of good if he isn't taking him to a level where he would need them. IF he's not taking it to that level, then the head studs would cause an addition expense of re-torquing the studs after well heat cycling them.
$4500 is a bit low for a quality SHORT BLOCK that can handle 1000 RWHP
Also you MIGHT be able to get a built SHORT BLOCK based on his stock block for $2500, but it would be close with machining AND not prolly withbalancing.

I'm just making sure you talk apples to apples with the terminology and to keep things in prospective.

I have got to agree here ..They want $400.00 JUST TO BALANCE in this area !

[Fenixfire]

Originally Posted by rich1

I have got to agree here ..They want $400.00 JUST TO BALANCE in this area !

I gotta say one thing I do like about living here is I get quality engine work for CHEAP!

[460hpmach1]

when i called steeda not to long ago they priced me a alumnator for $4500 shipped to my door. i heard the alumnator is for sure good to 800rwhp. but yes it is on what he wants to do. i figure i'll either have the mach motor built with forged internals or just buy a alumnator and have my d1sc switched to it and turn up the boost and i'm thinking 18psi prob is what i'm looking to run atleast 15psi for sure. but that will be awhile till then but for now just the stock bottom end with 10psi for it.

[Fenixfire]

Originally Posted by 460hpmach1

when i called steeda not to long ago they priced me a alumnator for $4500 shipped to my door. i heard the alumnator is for sure good to 800rwhp. but yes it is on what he wants to do. i figure i'll either have the mach motor built with forged internals or just buy a alumnator and have my d1sc switched to it and turn up the boost and i'm thinking 18psi prob is what i'm looking to run atleast 15psi for sure. but that will be awhile till then but for now just the stock bottom end with 10psi for it.

They only advertise the aluminator as being good for 700 hp

[Furinox]

someone on svtperf the otherday was talking about being able to buy reman cobra longblocks for 4k

[ZincShaker]

Just so I know, what has to be done to swap a cobra motor in. Just switch the motors maybe rewire a few things and get a tune? Also take care of the fuel system.

[machgsxr]

Originally Posted by ZincShaker

Just so I know, what has to be done to swap a cobra motor in. Just switch the motors maybe rewire a few things and get a tune? Also take care of the fuel system.

same electrical things needed to do in the eaton swap as well as fuel pumps and a new tune. No changing of computers necessary.

[Scott McClure]

Originally Posted by Furinox

someone on svtperf the otherday was talking about being able to buy reman cobra longblocks for 4k

Yes but with a core.

[ZincShaker]

What kind of ball park 1/4 mi time does an Eaton swap Mach run? Just keeping our block that is.

[Mach1Marauder]

Originally Posted by ZincShaker

What kind of ball park 1/4 mi time does an Eaton swap Mach run? Just keeping our block that is.

10s

[machgsxr]

Originally Posted by Mach1Marauder

10s

Who ran a 10 on their stock mach block?

[machgsxr]

Originally Posted by ZincShaker

What kind of ball park 1/4 mi time does an Eaton swap Mach run? Just keeping our block that is.

11.3-11.9 is the ballpark of the times that I have seen.

[ZincShaker]

What is needed for 425rwhp and is that good for 11's?

[xXAzureMach1Xx]

I put down 410rwhp with a bone stock mach with a eaton. Well it had a K&N filter. I put a OR H pipe and made 431rwhp.

[ZincShaker]

Is that with the stock pulley?

[xXAzureMach1Xx]

yep.

http://videos.streetfire.net/video/E...h-1_709132.htm

[ZincShaker]

If you swap in a cobra gas tank do you need the neck filler or can you just use the one from our stock tank?