WTB fenders

[chaser]

This one is a stretch but if anyone has a set of take off DSG fenders and willing to sale let me know.

I had found a DSG mach that was hit in the rear and had a good front end. But some had already got it for the hood and fenders. If I could luck up on a set of used fenders that would at least save me on paying the bodyshop to paint new ones.

[chaser]

Ttt

[Murder Snake]

try the local boneyard

[chaser]

Have and all the mustangs there have been hit in the front like mine. Generally if theres a mustang in the scrap yard its because its really fubar'd. At least thats been the case for me.

Besides that their are none my color. Trying to avoid painting if possible. Thats why Im hoping to find hood and fenders in DSG.

[mikeracing]

If you were closer i would offer to spray them for you if you bought the materials... the body pieces are pretty cheap the paint is the harder part

[chaser]

Yeah painting and the quality is my concern. Painting a metallic grey to match isnt easy. People will look at the car and immediately know its a new front end, and was smacked pretty hard. My idea is finding used oem panels with original paint that may have a similar fade and age to the car and not stand out to much.

Most of my expense is in replacing the rad core, passenger fender apron, and possibly the k member and strut tower. The body shop will determine if the last 2 are needed when they begin pulling and cutting. The shop seems pretty adamant about needing to cut/replace everything from the firewall forward on the passenger side. Without having done anything yet.

They qouted me 3k best scenario to 6k worse scenario for structural repairs. So if I can save money on the sheet metal, that'd be great.

[mikeracing]

If you want my opinion if the paint match is that important paint the whole car. Yes matching color is difficult and starts with really good quality paint also blending once the color is right but IMO the paint match will look great for a couple years then the new paint starts to fade and doesn't match.. seems like a very bad wreck to be rebuilding. Didmy you have insurance on it ? Rebuilt title cars are only worth approx 60% of the total of the blue book.

A good shop dose it A LOT they can give you a good idea first but if they are worried about it probably means they will be doing those as well.

Originally Posted by chaser

Yeah painting and the quality is my concern. Painting a metallic grey to match isnt easy. People will look at the car and immediately know its a new front end, and was smacked pretty hard. My idea is finding used oem panels with original paint that may have a similar fade and age to the car and not stand out to much.

Most of my expense is in replacing the rad core, passenger fender apron, and possibly the k member and strut tower. The body shop will determine if the last 2 are needed when they begin pulling and cutting. The shop seems pretty adamant about needing to cut/replace everything from the firewall forward on the passenger side. Without having done anything yet.

They qouted me 3k best scenario to 6k worse scenario for structural repairs. So if I can save money on the sheet metal, that'd be great.

[chaser]

Originally Posted by mikeracing

If you want my opinion if the paint match is that important paint the whole car. Yes matching color is difficult and starts with really good quality paint also blending once the color is right but IMO the paint match will look great for a couple years then the new paint starts to fade and doesn't match.. seems like a very bad wreck to be rebuilding. Didmy you have insurance on it ? Rebuilt title cars are only worth approx 60% of the total of the blue book.

A good shop dose it A LOT they can give you a good idea first but if they are worried about it probably means they will be doing those as well.

Of course I have insurance, but its only liability. So the other party's damage was covered and payed for. Because I was at fault , my car was not covered and an adjuster was not sent to look at the damage, so it was not totaled. Had I had full coverage then yes, my car would have been covered as well and totaled by the insurance. I see your point about matching the paint and the new paint fading later. I know painting the whole car is the best option for a uniform finish. I just did not want to go that route because its more $$$ and the rest of the paint is in great condition.

I decided not to worry too much about the paint matching. Your post helped confirm what I thought on the issue. Im going to buy new fenders and have a painter I know help me out. About the wreck, I was not paying attention (shamefully). I was looking left, and when I looked back there was an SUV crossing my path and I t-boned them at 35 mph. Surprisingly but thankfully no one was hurt. They even drove their car home, or rather limped it home with a bent rear axle. And so here I am, thats what taking your eyes off the road for 3 seconds get you. I literally only looked away for 3 seconds to get a second glance at something on the side of the road. Having said that, I dont know how people can drive and text. They have their eyes on their phone for much longer than I looked away.

As for the repairs, Im doing most of the work myself, except for the frame pulling. Everything else Im replacing on my own. I only need a body shop where the frame pulling and paint is concerned. And if their qoute of 3k(optimistic) to 6k(worse case) to do the structural repairs is true, then I think maybe its worth attempting. Resale value doesnt concern me because I had already planned to keep the car a long time, I really enjoyed it before the wreck lol.

[chaser]

Here are some pictures to get some opinions. Ive already removed the hood and fenders. And since these photos were taken I have removed more parts. Have heard good and bad opinions regarding the passenger side. Some said the section at the strut tower and back can be straightened, then cut and replace everything forward of the struts. And others saying no, the entire strut tower and fender apron from the firewall forward must be replaced. Ive seen worse repaired, so I think I may have a chance.

mobile format









forum formatt



Funny the pictures show up on the phone browser but not on a computers browser. Let me know if you cant see the pics

[chaser]

forum format

[mikeracing]

We may want to change to a regular thread.

IMO do you want to have a repaired street car or a street monster.

If it was my car I would build a tube chassis firewall forward. Take some of the heavy weight off the front end change the front suspension geometry. Make it easier to work on but stock appearing until you lift the hood

[chaser]

I have thougt about that. But could you see the pictures? Whats your opinion as far as the passenger side damage.

[mikeracing]

Well once steel passes it's yield pool (stays bent ) means the steel is around 60% of the original strength. So I would say I wouldn't trust it plus every time you hear a squeak after your done your going to think of broken welds.

I know it's repairable and if it was a 60,000 dollar car yea I could see rebuilding the frame rails but not for a 20 year old mach 1. But great reason to upgrade.


And here's my insurance pitch. Always keep full coverage no matter the value of the car. Even if you have a high deductible. Also make sure you have plenty of under insured insurance because when the other person hurts you you can at least pay the bills. Sorry for the rant and I know it's to late man but sonething to trhink about with your other cars. Try searching for chassis builders in your area to see what they would charge to front half the car. Maybe near the same amount but you would have something that increases value to the right buyer. I am working on my own wreck repair but it was race track related.

[mikeracing]

1 other thought someone else is selling a whole shell for a mach 1 http://www.mach1registry.org/forums/...d.php?t=135798

It's been up for quite a while maybe offer a decent amount ? Looks like he has a bunch of the parts you need too. If you have a son or a daughter would be a good bonding experience

[chaser]

Thanks a lot. Really appreciate the advice. I have considered going with a tubular k member as a frontend upgrade. But I hear they are **** for street use and less safe in an accident, not that that matters now. lol I knew the steel strenght was compromised but did not know it was by as much as 60% or more! Will that still be the case if they cut out the old and weld in new pieces like they suggest?

A tube front end would be great, but then Id have the added isssue of refitting everything. From the rad, fan and condenser plus all the wiring and other trinkets that live in the engine bay. More fabbing. I agree a tube front end would add more value to some buyers as opposed to a rebuilt back to stock wreck.

No kids here (yet). 29 and single. Nice suggestion though. Yeah I saw that car a while back. Id hate to cut up a good shell for its front end. It would better serve someone as a dedicated track car if the right buyer looking for such a project comes along.

[mikeracing]

Hahaha no not cut up the good shell put your good parts on the good shell and transfer the vin to the new shell. Lol and no if they replace the metal with new then you have 100% strength

[chaser]

Thanks thats good to know. Id rather them replace the whole apron and strut if needed.