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Old 01-23-2010, 05:19 PM   #26
Mudd92
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Re: Think I need a clutch?

Ok guys figured it out, cable popped out on the tranny so i fixed that, hooked it up and drove it. Ive got it engaging about 1/4 way up, so i think thats good?

The pedal feels ALOT better, clutch feels better. Can somone tell me if its my drivng though *hah* Im a lot better now, I mean now after practicing and experience when i launch the car spins through 2nd non stop and doesnt hook until i let off slightly, but still when I hit 3rd it still bogs down bad. I dynoed the car last weekend and it quits making power at around 5500 but I still shift around 6. Every gear the car is fine, even if i wind it out in 3rd it does fine, its just ******** fast from 2nd to 3rd always bogs, but maybe its just my driving, im still learning.

Thanks! Yeah ill be curious to see how long the stock clutch lasts with the eaton in a couple months, i wonder if i should put a clutch in it?
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Accufab TB, BBK LT's, BBK O/R X, Mac Catback, JLT RAI, 98 Cobra intake cams, EBC redstuff pads, slotted drilled rotors, 31 spline mosers, 31 spline cobra posi, 3" studs, FRPP 3:73, welded tubes, smoked tails. Eaton swap! 465hp,425tq @ 15deg and 3.4pulley @ 10lb. T56 magnum! - Tuned by Eric Brooks! Built motor coming soon

-95 Chevy C1500 5.7 auto
Stock, tow rig and DD.

-Joey

Last edited by Mudd92; 01-24-2010 at 10:44 AM.
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Old 01-24-2010, 10:43 AM   #27
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Re: Think I need a clutch?

morning bump
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-03 AB Mach 5spd
Accufab TB, BBK LT's, BBK O/R X, Mac Catback, JLT RAI, 98 Cobra intake cams, EBC redstuff pads, slotted drilled rotors, 31 spline mosers, 31 spline cobra posi, 3" studs, FRPP 3:73, welded tubes, smoked tails. Eaton swap! 465hp,425tq @ 15deg and 3.4pulley @ 10lb. T56 magnum! - Tuned by Eric Brooks! Built motor coming soon

-95 Chevy C1500 5.7 auto
Stock, tow rig and DD.

-Joey
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Old 01-27-2010, 12:38 AM   #28
nighttime
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Re: Think I need a clutch?

re: the bogging in 3rd, You may want to consider changing your fuel filter. On my '04, I noticed that the power really started falling off around 4.5-5k, and almost felt like it was missing past that. At first I thought that maybe a few of the fuel injectors were failing to spray properly at high duty cycles, but decided to start simple (and cheap!) and take care of the filter first. The old filter was obviously quite dirty, it runs much better throughout the power band, no more hesitation on the top end. Takes 10-15 minutes to do, and with the age of our cars, needs to be done anyway if the original is still on there. Good luck!

Or yeah, re: the clutch, considering that its not too hard to put a clutch on a rear wheel drive car, if you have the cash around, Id do it since you're already working on the car anyway. Id consider a lighter flywheel as well while youre in there, on my last car, it was one of those mods I wish I did right when I got it; made shifting SO much smoother, and as you know we need all the help we can get with the 3650's...
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Old 01-27-2010, 10:30 AM   #29
gamatt
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Re: Think I need a clutch?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mudd92 View Post
Ok guys figured it out, cable popped out on the tranny so i fixed that, hooked it up and drove it. Ive got it engaging about 1/4 way up, so i think thats good?

The pedal feels ALOT better, clutch feels better. Can somone tell me if its my drivng though *hah* Im a lot better now, I mean now after practicing and experience when i launch the car spins through 2nd non stop and doesnt hook until i let off slightly, but still when I hit 3rd it still bogs down bad. I dynoed the car last weekend and it quits making power at around 5500 but I still shift around 6. Every gear the car is fine, even if i wind it out in 3rd it does fine, its just ******** fast from 2nd to 3rd always bogs, but maybe its just my driving, im still learning.

Thanks! Yeah ill be curious to see how long the stock clutch lasts with the eaton in a couple months, i wonder if i should put a clutch in it?
I was able to drive *much* smoother after putting my adjuster in. It was grabbing right at the floor, I looked like a first time stick driver. I stalled it 2 or 3 times on my test drive.

1/4 of the way up is about right. If you turn the adjuster a few times counterclockwise, that will tighten the cable and bring the engagement point higher. Just make sure there is daylight between the adjuster and the cable end, so that the cable is totally relaxed when the clutch is all the way out. I think the directions show that.

If you are spinning all the way through 2nd, then you are not going fast enough for 3rd?
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Old 01-27-2010, 10:46 AM   #30
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Re: Think I need a clutch?

Yeah thanks guys, I had a chance to go on a back road away from anyone and try to practice it was just my driving. If i shift around 63 it does fine and doesnt bog. If I try to leave a space between the cable and adjuster, as soon as i push the clutch the cable pulls tight agains the adjuster and does not back out and it stays tight, I thought CLOCKWISE would tighten the cable and COUNTER would loosen? Ive got it about 1/4 off the floor before it engages. I dont hear any TOB noise so I assume thats good?

Im still trying to debate if I should put an 03/04 cobra clutch when I do the eaton swap here soon, but I dont know Im afraid a good clutch with that power is gonna destroy the trans..

And another thing the FF i just replaced a week ago.
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-03 AB Mach 5spd
Accufab TB, BBK LT's, BBK O/R X, Mac Catback, JLT RAI, 98 Cobra intake cams, EBC redstuff pads, slotted drilled rotors, 31 spline mosers, 31 spline cobra posi, 3" studs, FRPP 3:73, welded tubes, smoked tails. Eaton swap! 465hp,425tq @ 15deg and 3.4pulley @ 10lb. T56 magnum! - Tuned by Eric Brooks! Built motor coming soon

-95 Chevy C1500 5.7 auto
Stock, tow rig and DD.

-Joey
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Old 01-27-2010, 11:01 AM   #31
SHAKEN
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Re: Think I need a clutch?

FYI the instructions for stock clutch adjustment are in the owners manual.
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Old 01-27-2010, 11:07 AM   #32
DSPTurtle
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Re: Think I need a clutch?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mudd92 View Post
I thought CLOCKWISE would tighten the cable and COUNTER would loosen?
I am pretty sure you have that backwards. Unless the Fiore is totally different? Clockwise makes the adjuster "shorter" which puts more slack in the cable and counter-clockwise moves the adjuster out which tightens the cable. Can someone corroborate that before this poor guys goes off on a wild goose chase
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Old 01-27-2010, 11:29 AM   #33
Mudd92
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Re: Think I need a clutch?

It must be, mines MM, but I originally had it screwed all the way in and the clutch was engage with the pedal all the way in so I had to take it out some to get it all right.
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-03 AB Mach 5spd
Accufab TB, BBK LT's, BBK O/R X, Mac Catback, JLT RAI, 98 Cobra intake cams, EBC redstuff pads, slotted drilled rotors, 31 spline mosers, 31 spline cobra posi, 3" studs, FRPP 3:73, welded tubes, smoked tails. Eaton swap! 465hp,425tq @ 15deg and 3.4pulley @ 10lb. T56 magnum! - Tuned by Eric Brooks! Built motor coming soon

-95 Chevy C1500 5.7 auto
Stock, tow rig and DD.

-Joey
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Old 01-27-2010, 03:06 PM   #34
gamatt
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Re: Think I need a clutch?

Quote:
Originally Posted by DSPTurtle View Post
I am pretty sure you have that backwards. Unless the Fiore is totally different? Clockwise makes the adjuster "shorter" which puts more slack in the cable and counter-clockwise moves the adjuster out which tightens the cable. Can someone corroborate that before this poor guys goes off on a wild goose chase
Yes, you are correct. It's all very confusing.
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Old 01-27-2010, 03:13 PM   #35
gamatt
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Re: Think I need a clutch?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mudd92 View Post
Yeah thanks guys, I had a chance to go on a back road away from anyone and try to practice it was just my driving. If i shift around 63 it does fine and doesnt bog. If I try to leave a space between the cable and adjuster, as soon as i push the clutch the cable pulls tight agains the adjuster and does not back out and it stays tight, I thought CLOCKWISE would tighten the cable and COUNTER would loosen? Ive got it about 1/4 off the floor before it engages. I dont hear any TOB noise so I assume thats good?

Im still trying to debate if I should put an 03/04 cobra clutch when I do the eaton swap here soon, but I dont know Im afraid a good clutch with that power is gonna destroy the trans..

And another thing the FF i just replaced a week ago.
As long as shift effort is easy, that means that the clutch is fully disengaged when pushed in, and then when the clutch is fully let out, there is some slack in the cable, then you are good. Anywhere in between you can move the engagement point to suit your taste.

I would think some aftermarket offerings would be better than the cobra clutch. I put a Centerforce in my fox body and it was very nice, light pedal effort and very very smooth engagement. I believe the dual friction model would match the power level of an Eaton'd Mach, but their tech line is very helpful to answer that kind of question.
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