sutyak's turbo 2004 Mach 1 build thread

[BONESTOCK]

Ouchy on the block booboo's.

[sutyak]

Originally Posted by DSG2003Mach1

wow, sorry to see the BS you keep finding.

As far as logging boost, do you have an EGR on the car still? I deleted mine and doing a little research it looks like you can use the EGR signal wire and set it up in livelink to log boost. My Aeroforce doesnt have a specific output wire for logging but Ive been told you can splice in another wire to the signal wire going to the gauge and run from that. I intend to give it a try

The EGR has been deleted. Very interesting, I'll have to look into that.

Originally Posted by TKat13

Are you going to put in the coolant mod on the back of the heads?

The block looks like someone dropped it.

It's been so long since I had a mid motor I assumed this had it done already. I'll have to read up on that, too.

[sutyak]

I made a good bit of progress on the 6 point bar install this weekend. The Maxiumum Motorsports instructions only suggest taking out the minimum interior for install. Since I'm doing this by myself, I removed all of the interior, including the steering wheel and center console. This way I don't gouge the interior parts taking it in and out, and it just gives me more room to work.
I also ordered a new firewall adjuster and adjustable cable. The current adjuster is junk and stuck on the current setting. I also went ahead and bought a head cooling mod kit. This car has become quite the money pit.

The GeForce gearset transmission is also coming along. I had to take the adapter plate to my buddy's shop to make some adjustments.

Still need to weld the supports, cut out the rear interior panels, and install the door bars.


Where the lower support plate will mount in the rear wheel well. Driver side.

[sutyak]

Roll bar is welded up and the install is nearly complete except for a couple hiccups. I can't use the Corbeau seats. They are not even close to fitting with the door bar. I still have the stock seats that touch the bar, but they'll work. The passenger side door plate sits right on top of the fuel lines. This is the last plate I need to drill for, but I'll need to temporarily move the hard fuel lines.

I also decided to replace my weeping rear main seal while the trans is out, in addition to many, many little things that I don't fee like listing. Suffice to say this has become an all-out restoration project.

[ab_mach1]

Looking good!


Instagram - @ab_mach1

[not a gt]

AWESOME !! Install looks neat and clean...as always

[PsiMach]

It's looking good!

[BONESTOCK]

MY Corbeau FX1's fit no problem. The normal ones...not the wide ones.

[sutyak]

Originally Posted by BONESTOCK

MY Corbeau FX1's fit no problem. The normal ones...not the wide ones.

Good to know. I think I'll stick with a seat that does not have shoulder bolsters. My shoulders barely fit in the wides.

[sutyak]

Originally Posted by TKat13

Are you going to put in the coolant mod on the back of the heads?

The block looks like someone dropped it.

After some research it turns out this motor already has the Lethal Gen 2 coolant mod, which attaches to the top of the head instead of the back. I bought a rear mount coolant mod, but I don't think there's any benefit of using the rear vs. the top other than maybe cleaning up some hoses?

[TKat13]

You may be able to take them to an upholstery shop and have them notch the seats, just a thought.

[TKat13]

Thanks for taking those pics; it made it clear that I cannot use the MM bars since I am mini-tubbing the mach; your wheel well pic made that clear where it just did not come to my attention!! thanks again.

[sutyak]

Originally Posted by TKat13

Thanks for taking those pics; it made it clear that I cannot use the MM bars since I am mini-tubbing the mach; your wheel well pic made that clear where it just did not come to my attention!! thanks again.

Glad I could help!

[sutyak]

Big 'ol Precision 7675 sold. Borg Warner S366SX-E 66/73 will be ordered as soon as I'm certain the Precision deal is done. I'm expecting the BW to spool nearly 1,000 RPM sooner. The BW might flow to 800whp, but I think it would take some healthy meth injection or E85. It should be very happy at 700whp.

Remember my goal is a 10.0 car and leave it that way...

Here is my rough estimate of the compressor map for the BW:


And here is an even rougher estimate of the PTE 7675 based on a similar flowing Garrett, since Precision doesn't create compressor maps.
Notice just how little of the potential the car was using. This map is plotted from the actual dyno of the car, so the curve is very accurate, but the actual overlay may not be. I think it should be very close, though.

[Mach828]

Looking forward to seeing a dyno overlay after the new turbo swap!

[TKat13]

I too am interested to compare the actual on car results as all setups will preform a bit different. My earlier research led me down the precision path and away from BW, but I was not looking at compressor maps rather dyno results when swapping from BW to Precision so it was just the opposite from you. However, with most things people cannot just change a single component so other variables could have played into those as well; the core motor and piping was the same but.. Again, all slightly different but the precision seemed to be more consistent with my goals. I would love to learn more on this one and I hope you are right.

[sutyak]

Originally Posted by TKat13

I too am interested to compare the actual on car results as all setups will preform a bit different. My earlier research led me down the precision path and away from BW, but I was not looking at compressor maps rather dyno results when swapping from BW to Precision so it was just the opposite from you. However, with most things people cannot just change a single component so other variables could have played into those as well; the core motor and piping was the same but.. Again, all slightly different but the precision seemed to be more consistent with my goals. I would love to learn more on this one and I hope you are right.

I tried 5 different turbos/configurations on my Focus before finding exactly what I wanted. Hopefully this won't take that many.
After more reading I'm going with the S369SX-E, which is a 95 lb/hr turbo 69mm compressor and 73mm turbine. Maybe a bit bigger than what I need, but still a good bit smaller than the Precision.
In theory the S366 should reach the whp goal I have, but I'm afraid it will peak too early.

[sutyak]

Painting the roll bar to match the car.


Added an ms paint yellow overly for the 69mm turbo I bought.

[sutyak]

New main seal installed and turbo arrived. They sent the wrong turbine housing, so that part is going back.









I also bought a Mark Williams 1350 driveshaft yoke. I'm not sure what to do about the length difference, or if it matters. I'm still looking into that.
Full insertion of the stock yoke is 6" of actual splined shaft. The MW is only 4 5/8". The stock yoke has about 7/8" of non-splined shaft at the opening for some reason, so the overall length looks much longer.

[sutyak]

I contacted Denny's Driveshaft (where I purchased the yoke) and asked about possible added stress on the output shaft from the shorter spline engagement of the MW yoke. I'm satisfied with this reply and I'll be using this yoke on a Ford Racing aluminum driveshaft.

Mark
Your concerns are valid but very unlikely that there would be any over stressing of the output shaft due to less spline contact. Mark Williams Enterprises would never make a slip yoke too short that would cause a transmission any harm. In fact using a stock type yoke like the one in your photo can cause more damage when the internal spline twists and binds up the movement. With that yoke you will have way more spline contact then what is necessary for high power usage.


And since this thread doesn't have enough pictures, here's one of my car a buddy of mine took in Ocean City.
It will be nice to get the car on the road again.

[sutyak]

After hearing a lot of compressor surge when letting off the throttle I took a look at the existing blow off valve. Turns out it is a tiny 34mm (actually 28.5mm) TurboXS that just cannot expel enough air to keep the compressed air from smashing back into the compressor wheel.
I've had great experience with the JGS products, so I went with their 50mm BOV. I won't actually install this until after I get the turbo in and pipes modified as necessary. Fitment will be tight.





The installer made no effort to mount the previous BOV flange flush! It protruded about 1" into the piping.

[BONESTOCK]

ouch. ugly install!

[sutyak]

I humbly have to make a correction on that yoke I selected; the U joints are too large for the driveshaft. I'll have to send it back (hopefully) and go with a 1330 style in a different brand. The diameter of the caps of the U joints are too large to fit the driveshaft.

Yesterday was a painting day. I have quite a bit more painting to do on the roll bar and other parts.

I paint my subframe connectors with high-temp paint prior to welding them. The welding cures the paint. I've done this a couple of times and it works great. The welded parts are masked off, but it's hard to tell in the photo.


High-temp paint on the turbo cartridge. I hate surface rust. I'm leaning towards painting the compressor housing sonic blue after I've completed modifying the pipes, etc.

[sutyak]

The trans is finally together. It will still be a while before I move on to indicating the bell housing and final install. I still need to finish painting the roll bar, weld up the subframe connectors, install/weld torque box reinforcements, driveshaft loop, maybe 4.10 gears, modify piping for BW turbo, Strange struts and 160# springs, etc. So quite a bit more to do before this actually gets on the road. I'll have to spend some time adjusting the tune once it is road worthy.
The correct turbine housing arrived. I'll be taking it to my buddy at Fox's Machining to modify the marmon style flange so it will mate up to a standard 3.5" v-band clamp. My initial thought is the surface of the flange just needs machined flat plus a bit more and it will mate.

I ended up keeping the forged 1350 Mark Williams yoke after learning I can just use a 1350/1330 combination U-joint to fit the 1330 style end of the driveshaft. It was either use the combo U-joint or go with a custom driveshaft and switch to a 1350 pinion flange.

Marmon flange on the Borg Warner turbo. It's already as thick as an entire standard v-band clamp.


Not very interesting just seeing a trans together. Not bolted to the bell.


MW yoke with combo U-joint. The rear flange had a lot of surface rust so I cleaned it up and painted it. Also installed a new 1330 U-joint while I was at it.
The combo U-joint is greasable, so I'll need to remember to grease it. The rear is a sealed non-greasable.


Spicer 1350, Neapco 1350/1330 combo, and Spicer 1330 U-joints.

[03Shadow Grey]

Surface rust makes a brand new part look bad in a hurry, so im with you on that. One thing I tried about 4 months ago after taking alot of my front eng parts off ( brakets and belt tensioner, pullies ect ) was sand blasting them back to new and then cleared them with PPG automotive clear.I was worried they would look glossy and fake but with the sandblasting you cant see there is anything on there. Now when I wash ther eng bay they always look brqand new. Wish I could do the block that way , not to mention get rid of that blue spraypaint on the driver side head. Also the valve covers could use some love but thats looks like a pain to remove. lol