Another 98 Cobra Intake Cam Topic

[torched04]

Originally Posted by na svt

For those that believe the stock cams are pretty close to 114/114, here's another data point. This is an 03/04 that was checked yesterday, it too is getting 96-98 intake cams:
Passenger side intake = 111.5
Passenger side exhaust = 110

Driverside intake = 119.5
Driverside exhaust = 108

This is why you see the great differences in power between degreed and undegreed.

Hey glad to see my cam specs made it into here. They were pretty far out and my Cobra made 685rwhp/605rwtq like that. So lets hope with the 97 Cobra cams and balancing the engine(cam timing the same bank to bank) it picks up some good power.

[Bmeagher]

Originally Posted by torched04

Hey glad to see my cam specs made it into here. They were pretty far out and my Cobra made 685rwhp/605rwtq like that. So lets hope with the 97 Cobra cams and balancing the engine(cam timing the same bank to bank) it picks up some good power.

Killer numbers. Just moved to Yellowknife, next trip to civilization i'll have to check out your car when i make it to Calgary.

[na svt]

Originally Posted by torched04

Hey glad to see my cam specs made it into here. They were pretty far out and my Cobra made 685rwhp/605rwtq like that. So lets hope with the 97 Cobra cams and balancing the engine(cam timing the same bank to bank) it picks up some good power.

The stock LC can be way off as your results have proven and this shows the importance of degreeing the cams, whether the cams are installed at the stock LCs or anywhere else. Many test have shown that if one intake cam is off a few degrees the power will suffer greatly. Just look at usctews results, those are huge gains for just a little work and a few more bucks.

BTW, a member here with an eaton swap mach picked up 30ft lbs of tq by degreeing his stock intake cams to 108 and even picked up a few hp.

[massacre]

Originally Posted by nickmckinney

Is there anyway to extend it downward? It seems the space issue is more at the front and back like the water pump area. Otherwise there is a ton of space directly beneath it if you don't use the stock heater coolant return (obviously this is race car only thinking).

Also might have to lose the factory knock sensors.
On the Teksids, the knock sensor bosses and some other casting bumps need to be cut/ground off to fit the '03-'04 Cobra lower intake, so if you weren't running heater core and got creative with the angle grinder, I bet you could pick up some space.

[massacre]

Originally Posted by na svt

The stock LC can be way off as your results have proven and this shows the importance of degreeing the cams, whether the cams are installed at the stock LCs or anywhere else. Many test have shown that if one intake cam is off a few degrees the power will suffer greatly. Just look at usctews results, those are huge gains for just a little work and a few more bucks.

And the OP said his degree wheel stayed in the toolbox.

Which I completely don't understand, because:
If you advanced the cams 4 degrees, that would be 4 degrees from ??????
If the cams were off 1-2 degrees stock(and it's been proven time and again that this can be the case), depending on the amount and direction they are off(adv.VS ret.), you could be 6 degrees advanced, or only 2 degrees advanced. But you have no idea because you didn't record the stock setting.
Without a baseline, you're pissing in the wind IMHO.

To me, if you're going to be installing camshafts for improved performance, why not get the most from them?
To each his own I guess......

[ModularSpeed]

Originally Posted by hecdel40

NA SVT you sound like a person with a lot of knowledge i own an 04 mach 1 with a vortech V2 supercharger and aftercooler I'm running a sct2600 maf with an IAT sensor. My question is can i use a blow-of-valve inted of a bypass valve.

Thank you,
Hector

BWAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA

Really, in this thread?

If you use a "blow off" you need to use a blow through mass air sensor.

A bypass valve that is standard with most kits, is used with a draw through system.....the bypass re-circulates the metered air.

Back to cams....

[massacre]

Originally Posted by ModularSpeed

BWAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA

Really, in this thread?


Back to cams....

^^^ couldn't agree more.

[my fear]

sooo much good info in this thread and with the proven graphs i CANT wait to get my 10" runner intake to see what i gain. eeeeek to excited.

[uscstew]

Originally Posted by nickmckinney

Sorry for asking, what again was the difference in this graph?

same exact set up. one the cams are degreed, the other they are not

[nickmckinney]

Originally Posted by massacre

Also might have to lose the factory knock sensors.
On the Teksids, the knock sensor bosses and some other casting bumps need to be cut/ground off to fit the '03-'04 Cobra lower intake, so if you weren't running heater core and got creative with the angle grinder, I bet you could pick up some space.

No heater core and I can route the water lines from the rear of the heads to the water pump main inlet so no need at all for a water pipe beneath the intake.

Also have no fear of cutting all sorts of aluminum from the block if need be.

From what I see you can gain near a couple inches if you really pushed it.

Another question, has anyone tried to convert a Cobra B intake onto their motor? The 99+ Continental has factory adapters for this as they used a C head with their unique B intake (like an early Mark VIII design). I had some of those adapters hanging on the wall for years.

[ModularSpeed]

Originally Posted by nickmckinney

Another question, has anyone tried to convert a Cobra B intake onto their motor? The 99+ Continental has factory adapters for this as they used a C head with their unique B intake (like an early Mark VIII design). I had some of those adapters hanging on the wall for years.

I haven't seen anyone do it personally.

I have been talking to Mark (bitemark46) forever about doing such a thing, but I never really get around to getting anywhere with it.

I wonder how it would work. Hmmmm..

[massacre]

........

[na svt]

Originally Posted by nickmckinney

Another question, has anyone tried to convert a Cobra B intake onto their motor? The 99+ Continental has factory adapters for this as they used a C head with their unique B intake (like an early Mark VIII design). I had some of those adapters hanging on the wall for years.

I've thought about it but lacked the ambition to create adapters. The conti IMRC plates would be a great start but they have the transition (from two to one port). Removing the divider in the intake and making one port that would match with the C heads will reduce the velocity loss created by the one-two-port transition.

Making a short runner would become much easier with the B head intake.

[massacre]

........

[na svt]

This isn't exactly the thread for this topic nor is a B head intake something that the Mach guys would want. Maybe Corral or SVTP would be a better sites to bring up this issue.

[massacre]

Originally Posted by na svt

This isn't exactly the thread for this topic nor is a B head intake something that the Mach guys would want. Maybe Corral or SVTP would be a better sites to bring up this issue.

Point taken and posts changed to reflect it.

[Mach828]

Found a thread on SVTP with some decent pics and tips.

http://www.svtperformance.com/forums...s-install.html

[massacre]

Originally Posted by Mach828

Found a thread on SVTP with some decent pics and tips.

http://www.svtperformance.com/forums...s-install.html

OP's thread gets relegated to SVTP?

Bwahahhaahha

Oh the irony........

Bwahahahahahhaha

[Bmeagher]

Ok guys, here's a interesting video i found.
Click on the site, then the pic of the mod motor on the dyno.
http://www.verycoolparts.com/

[TheWaterSkier]

Originally Posted by Mach828

Found a thread on SVTP with some decent pics and tips.

http://www.svtperformance.com/forums...s-install.html

Quote from that thread: "torque the sproket bolts to 40nm plus 90 degres."

My Haynes manual shows the cam sprocket bolts as standard torque bolts, not torque to yield.

From the Haynes manual: Camshaft Sprocket bolts: 82 to 95 ft/lbs.

Which is correct?

[na svt]

95 ft/lbs

[Mach828]

Originally Posted by massacre

OP's thread gets relegated to SVTP?

Bwahahhaahha

Oh the irony........

Bwahahahahahhaha

Ya. Well at least there are pictures. There aren't any pictures in this thread.

[TheWaterSkier]

Originally Posted by na svt

95 ft/lbs

So if he used 40nm (roughly 30 ft/lbs) plus 90 degrees, he is likely way under the recommended torque I would think...

If that is the case, perhaps someone should post that to him (I do not belong to that forum)?

[watman02]

Alldata shows the torque spec at 40NM and 90degrees and if anything the final torque ont he bolt was likly higher than 95ft-lbs
by the way thats my post on SVT forums with the pics!!

[TheWaterSkier]

Originally Posted by watman02

Alldata shows the torque spec at 40NM and 90degrees and if anything the final torque ont he bolt was likly higher than 95ft-lbs
by the way thats my post on SVT forums with the pics!!

As long as you are aware is all that counts. I have two printed sources, the ford engine assembly pdf and the Haynes manual that both show 95 ft/lbs. Also Todd NA_SVT above who knows a ton more about modular motors than most on here chimed in with 95 (not torque to yield). I have no way of knowing what 30 ft/lbs plus 90 degrees would equal in ft/lbs on that size bolt, so it's mostly about your comfort level.

BTW, thanks for posting the photos of the swap. We seem to be photo starved over here