NGK TR6 spark plug question "which one"

[DSPTurtle]

This is totally new info for me, very cool. Everything I have ever read or anyone I have talked to always said in a boosted car you should not use platinums... I have an old 930 turbo that will not even hit on all six without old school plugs with a huge center electrode and fat ground strap. This is the first time I have heard that the platinums do well... although NGKs are pretty stout so it is not surprising. I might just have to try that next time around... although I do get a sick enjoyment out of changing plugs and it makes me smile that they are less then $2 each.

[ASH302]

how often do you or are you suppose to change plugs any one got the miles or time frame when you don't put that many miles on the car a year

[torched04]

Originally Posted by DSPTurtle

This is totally new info for me, very cool. Everything I have ever read or anyone I have talked to always said in a boosted car you should not use platinums... I have an old 930 turbo that will not even hit on all six without old school plugs with a huge center electrode and fat ground strap. This is the first time I have heard that the platinums do well... although NGKs are pretty stout so it is not surprising. I might just have to try that next time around... although I do get a sick enjoyment out of changing plugs and it makes me smile that they are less then $2 each.

Platinum plugs suck... the plugs we are talking about are iridium.

[sideways03]

You do not want to run iridium plugs on a boosted car. Iridium plugs last so long because they run hot, which keeps them clean. That will cause detonation on a boosted car. Which is the reason you are running a colder plug in the 1st place right? Stick with copper plugs on a boosted car. Copper dissipates heat a LOT faster, lower your risk of detonation.

[ASH302]

Originally Posted by sideways04GT

You do not want to run iridium plugs on a boosted car. Iridium plugs last so long because they run hot, which keeps them clean. That will cause detonation on a boosted car. Which is the reason you are running a colder plug in the 1st place right? Stick with copper plugs on a boosted car. Copper dissipates heat a LOT faster, lower your risk of detonation.

i've heard these so many times before even for running nitrous.

[torched04]

Originally Posted by sideways04GT

You do not want to run iridium plugs on a boosted car. Iridium plugs last so long because they run hot, which keeps them clean. That will cause detonation on a boosted car. Which is the reason you are running a colder plug in the 1st place right? Stick with copper plugs on a boosted car. Copper dissipates heat a LOT faster, lower your risk of detonation.

Where have you found this info, I would be interested in reading it.

I have ran TR6ix plugs gapped at 0.032" for over 40,000kms on my ported eaton setup. I run 18psi with pump gas on my 3.4L Whipple with TR7ix plugs(heat range colder then TR6ix's) and its been over 10,000kms.

Iridium is a harder material then copper, much harder so it lasts longer. They can run a smaller tip due to the material being harder which concentrates there spark more, hence why you can run a slightly wider gap with them vs copper. At the track you probably won't see a performance difference, but driveability wise you will. I tried coppers before and hated them.

Detontation is caused by too much spark advance and happens after your plug has fired. Too much boost and not enough fuel is another reason, I wouldn't blame your plugs for that. That or else you have the wrong heat range for what you are running.

[2k4mach]

also for 99.2% of the bolt on machs on this board they really dont need to go down to a Tr6 plug. the stock heat range works just fine for bolt on cars. and also Autolite AR103 do not have the low speed miss/surge, etc like the Tr6 does, just another alternative for those that dont want to spend the extra dough on the iridiums.

personally for me as little as i drive i just run the Ar103's and change them once a year which is prolly like 1500-2000 miles lol.

[ASH302]

i wish my mach got that many miles put on it a year. but i do enjoy driving it so much. once i get my dd car the mach won't be driven as much.

[sideways03]

Originally Posted by torched04

Where have you found this info, I would be interested in reading it.

I have ran TR6ix plugs gapped at 0.032" for over 40,000kms on my ported eaton setup. I run 18psi with pump gas on my 3.4L Whipple with TR7ix plugs(heat range colder then TR6ix's) and its been over 10,000kms.

Iridium is a harder material then copper, much harder so it lasts longer. They can run a smaller tip due to the material being harder which concentrates there spark more, hence why you can run a slightly wider gap with them vs copper. At the track you probably won't see a performance difference, but driveability wise you will. I tried coppers before and hated them.

Detontation is caused by too much spark advance and happens after your plug has fired. Too much boost and not enough fuel is another reason, I wouldn't blame your plugs for that. That or else you have the wrong heat range for what you are running.

You may have been running them fine for a while, and that is good, but I feel it is kinda like people running high boost on stock internals, it may be working out for you but it is not recommended.

I have had ZERO drivability issues with copper plugs. I've run a P1 at 10lbs and a D1 at 19lbs, the car drives smooth and starts right up, even when cold. I believe that is more in your tune.

After your plug has fired, if it does not dissipate its heat fast enough and is still hot enough it may cause detonation. I got the information from my tuner, here is what he has to say:

Platinum & Irridium plugs are designed to last 100+K miles. To do this they use a VERY hot spark. This keeps the sparkplugs clean....which is how they can last so long. The problem with a very HOT plug is that on a boosted application they can easily cause detonation. This is because the sparkplug will actually glow red hot at high RPM. The design of the combustion chambers of the modular family's heads compounds the problem. There's very little airflow across the sparkplug to cool it off. This is why I recomend the NGK 'race' BR7EF sparkplugs. They have a retracted tip (for less plug in the chamber = cooler plug) & a cut back ground strap (for better flame front) & are a copper plug....which disipates heat many, many times faster than platinum or irridium.

He is referring to the BR7EF plugs for higher boost cars, the TR6's are fine for lower to medium boost.

[Scott McClure]

I change my plugs once a year in the Spring. I run massive amounts of Torco and after 2500 miles which is about what I put on a year they need to be changed. And forget trying to read them.

[torched04]

Originally Posted by sideways04GT

You may have been running them fine for a while, and that is good, but I feel it is kinda like people running high boost on stock internals, it may be working out for you but it is not recommended.

I have had ZERO drivability issues with copper plugs. I've run a P1 at 10lbs and a D1 at 19lbs, the car drives smooth and starts right up, even when cold. I believe that is more in your tune.

After your plug has fired, if it does not dissipate its heat fast enough and is still hot enough it may cause detonation. I got the information from my tuner, here is what he has to say:



He is referring to the BR7EF plugs for higher boost cars, the TR6's are fine for lower to medium boost.

You notice nothing at low speed with a copper plug? 2nd gear and below 2k rpm in a school zone and light on the gas and it would buck a bit for me. Not an issue with iridiums.

Jon Lund tunes my car and I have put in hours of datalogging on the street so I can assure you its not the tune.

I hear of lots of people saying to run the BR7EF plug, but I have had luck with my TR7ix and I drive more then most people I know running the BR7EF plugs. I still think if your plug is getting that hot then its too hot for the duty you have it in.

Iridium lasts longer because the material is harder and doesn't break down. copper conducts better then iridium and that is why iridium plugs have such a small tips(its there way of increasing the spark energy to ignite the fuel)

If your plug is glowing hot like a glow plug then you have other issues causing the combustion chamber to be that hot or you are making an insane amount of power like a Nitro Funny Car!

[Fenixfire]

Would the BR7EF work for me with a ported eaton running 10-15 lbs of boost?

[Gameboy_J]

So for my N/A bolt on mach should I go with NGK 'race' BR7EF sparkplugs? I only take it to the track maybe 5 times a year and I am more concerned with good streetability.

[sideways03]

Originally Posted by Fenixfire

Would the BR7EF work for me with a ported eaton running 10-15 lbs of boost?

Yes

Originally Posted by Gameboy_J

So for my N/A bolt on mach should I go with NGK 'race' BR7EF sparkplugs? I only take it to the track maybe 5 times a year and I am more concerned with good streetability.

Not at all. Those plugs are for a high boost application. TR55's would be good for you. Copper or Iridium, however much you want to spend.

[2k4mach]

Originally Posted by Gameboy_J

So for my N/A bolt on mach should I go with NGK 'race' BR7EF sparkplugs? I only take it to the track maybe 5 times a year and I am more concerned with good streetability.

noooooooooo. that plug is too cold for a simple bolt on combo. stay with teh stock heatrange or 1 step colder

[ASH302]

Originally Posted by 2k4mach

noooooooooo. that plug is too cold for a simple bolt on combo. stay with teh stock heatrange or 1 step colder

1+ agreed even from the hp i'm wanting to run, i heard those plugs are for higher boost levels.

[devous1]

I don't think having a stick about plugs is a bad idea. I'm headed to Jegs to get a few items and will be picking up plugs. This helped out quickly, the intervals between services for my car are so far in between I usually fortet what the heck I used last time.

[rich1]

Originally Posted by sideways03

You may have been running them fine for a while, and that is good, but I feel it is kinda like people running high boost on stock internals, it may be working out for you but it is not recommended.

I have had ZERO drivability issues with copper plugs. I've run a P1 at 10lbs and a D1 at 19lbs, the car drives smooth and starts right up, even when cold. I believe that is more in your tune.

After your plug has fired, if it does not dissipate its heat fast enough and is still hot enough it may cause detonation. I got the information from my tuner, here is what he has to say:



He is referring to the BR7EF plugs for higher boost cars, the TR6's are fine for lower to medium boost.

Most informed post yet on this plug !
Likewise..I run copper TR6 all year round ,NA and with Nitrous too . I have never had a miss of any kind either . If you need a Hotter plug to make youre car run better the A/F or tune is not right. All Plat or Irrid plug are made to last longer and burn hotter in order to meet OBD2 idle emission specs
only.They have no purpose being used in any Nirtous ,Turbo , or SC applications peroid.

[Newskool Mach]

Originally Posted by rich1

Most informed post yet on this plug !
Likewise..I run copper TR6 all year round ,NA and with Nitrous too . I have never had a miss of any kind either . If you need a Hotter plug to make youre car run better the A/F or tune is not right. All Plat or Irrid plug are made to last longer and burn hotter in order to meet OBD2 idle emission specs
only.They have no purpose being used in any Nirtous ,Turbo , or SC applications peroid.

X2, I have been running TR6's for 3 years and no driveability issues whatsoever. My tuner also said NO iridiums because of the hot spot issue.

[torched04]

Originally Posted by rich1

Most informed post yet on this plug !
Likewise..I run copper TR6 all year round ,NA and with Nitrous too . I have never had a miss of any kind either . If you need a Hotter plug to make youre car run better the A/F or tune is not right. All Plat or Irrid plug are made to last longer and burn hotter in order to meet OBD2 idle emission specs
only.They have no purpose being used in any Nirtous ,Turbo , or SC applications peroid.

Old school of thinking then. I would only run a copper plug if I was using C16 and throwing them out after every few passes so it was less money.

I would still like to read these sources of info where people are saying iridium plugs have no place in forced induction or nitrous motors.

[jiveturkey]

Originally Posted by torched04

Old school of thinking then. I would only run a copper plug if I was using C16 and throwing them out after every few passes so it was less money.

I would still like to read these sources of info where people are saying iridium plugs have no place in forced induction or nitrous motors.

prolly the same place that some retard once said that BR7EF plugs are only for high boost cars and not nitrous cars.

[systemdz]

I just went to oreily's and they was telling me their computer called for NGK TR55ix iridiums. My car had Bosch fusions and it has a little miss if I hold it at 2000rpms. The plugs look old so I'm going to change them and hope it fixes my problems. My car is just basic bolt ons and I'm not sure which plug to get??? Any suggestions. Should I just se the autolites or get iridiums?

[2k4mach]

tr55ix are fine for you

[cruzmach1]

Was doing a search and notice someone gave the part number for the NGK TR6 V-Power to be 4177. According to autozone that part will not fit our cars. Is that the right number?

[ASH302]

Originally Posted by cruzmach1

Was doing a search and notice someone gave the part number for the NGK TR6 V-Power to be 4177. According to autozone that part will not fit our cars. Is that the right number?

http://www.lethalperformance.com/03-...t-of-8-p-14166

i believe its 4177

ASh