Need a new clutch

[03stangmach1]

I was wondering what you guys recommend for a full clutch replacement...?

[DSG2003Mach1]

depends on what you have done, what you plan to do to it if anything and how ya intend to use the car

[Mustanger2]

Stock works great!

[torchinmach]

I just put in the Mcleod super street pro/mcleod billet steel flywheel/Maximum Motorsports quadrant and adjuster as well as the ford racing aluminum driveshaft. I like it a lot feels like stock handles a moderate amount of power I think it was 500-550 somewhere in that range im just bolt on so it works fine. I've got about 1000 miles on it and love it so far.

[03sh8ker]

Originally Posted by Mustanger2

Stock works great!

Where can you find a stock clutch?

[blown03Mach1]

I loved the Centerforce Dual Friction and HATED their DFX clutch.

Would recommend the dual friction as a great option that feels like if not better than stock.

[03stangmach1]

I am looking for something rated in the 450-500 hp range. I don't need a heavy pressure plate. I plan on doing a few mods but it will remain a street car...

[DOCHMACH1]

Ive had great luck with spec.

[Mustanger2]

Originally Posted by 03sh8ker

Where can you find a stock clutch?

You can go to any Ford dealer & buy it...look in AM & Stage3 Motorsports...Jegs Summit, Late model Restoration, & CJ Pony....probably any local auto parts store will have one or can oder it.

Easier to ask where you can't buy a stock one..

[03stangmach1]

Originally Posted by DSG2003Mach1

depends on what you have done, what you plan to do to it if anything and how ya intend to use the car

I am looking for something rated in the 450-500 hp range. I don't need a heavy pressure plate. I plan on doing a few mods but it will remain a street car...

[03stangmach1]

Any of the brands better than others?

[USMCWeatherMan]

I put an Exedy clutch (Mach 500 I think) and flywheel purchased from AM in just about a year ago. I think its great, I am mainly stock, no plans on major mods, want to put an o/r mid pipe. Its my DD.

[03stangmach1]

Originally Posted by USMCWeatherMan

I put an Exedy clutch (Mach 500 I think) and flywheel purchased from AM in just about a year ago. I think its great, I am mainly stock, no plans on major mods, want to put an o/r mid pipe. Its my DD.

I'm hearing a lot of good things about this brand and they're the #1 clutch on AM which is saying something! Thanks for the fb!

[USMCWeatherMan]

Originally Posted by 03stangmach1

I'm hearing a lot of good things about this brand and they're the #1 clutch on AM which is saying something! Thanks for the fb!

No problem, I checked my order history from AM. I purchased the Exedy Mach 400 (Stage 2) clutch with the Exedy lightweight flywheel. I went with the Mach 400 because if I remember correctly when I ordered AM had a special where the 400 was cheaper than the Mach 350, so Ifigured why not. Purchasing their flywheel is not necessary, I fully intended on using a OEM factory nodular flywheel...that is until I got in there and saw previous owner must have swapped the engine from an auto Mach in as my crank had only 6 bolts and not the 8 bolt the factory 5spds came with. Had to get a 6 bolt in a hurry and AM had next day shipping available.

[Fastkurve]

Stay away from Centerforce Dual friction for good reason this clutch does not allow quick shift (read: power shift) at high RPM. I have good service though with American Powertrain stuff.

[JeromeMach1]

Where can I read about the high rpm quick shift issue with the Centerforce DF clutch?

Jerome

[Fastkurve]

Google "power shift centerforce issue", you should find ample infos about that.
The main reason is the disc being too thick, the clutch barely, if not at all, disengage the disc, which lead to notchy or impractical quick shift at high rpm.
Richard from American Powertrain is well aware of this, and he will make sure that the disc will be at a maximum thicknes of .320-.330". i checked myself the disengagement of my centerforce back then, and yes, the disc was barely disengaged while motioning the clutch. Hope that help.

If I had to redo the clutch. I would go back to OEM one, which was the best clutch to me for powershifting.

[shadowmaker]

Originally Posted by 03stangmach1

I was wondering what you guys recommend for a full clutch replacement...?

What kind do you have now? How many miles on it?

[03stangmach1]

Originally Posted by shadowmaker

What kind do you have now? How many miles on it?

I have the stock clutch with 51k. It's mainly stop n go...

[JeromeMach1]

Thank you for the info Fastkurve.

I have a bout 400 passes on a total of three Centerforce Dual Friction clutches without issue (shifting at 6800). Only recently have I been getting locked out of 3rd with quick, high rpm shifts. I had the tranny rebuilt and replaced the clutch, same problem. Now you have me wondering...

Jerome

[Mach828]

Whats funny is I have the American Powertrain clutch. It is a really thick disc as well, and barely disengages. It is a kevlar clutch disc, no separation slots. It gets hot easy. And quick high rpms shifts are just not possible. I miss running a thin organic disc clutch.

[Fastkurve]

Originally Posted by JeromeMach1

Thank you for the info Fastkurve.

I have a bout 400 passes on a total of three Centerforce Dual Friction clutches without issue (shifting at 6800). Only recently have I been getting locked out of 3rd with quick, high rpm shifts. I had the tranny rebuilt and replaced the clutch, same problem. Now you have me wondering...

Jerome

Guess what, I don't Wonder !! Sorry to hear that by the way, for me, never, ever again Centerforce DFX

[Fastkurve]

Originally Posted by Mach828

Whats funny is I have the American Powertrain clutch. It is a really thick disc as well, and barely disengages. It is a kevlar clutch disc, no separation slots. It gets hot easy. And quick high rpms shifts are just not possible. I miss running a thin organic disc clutch.

I just Wonder if you had call when placing your order and talked to Richard. He's well aware of the issue about the disc thickness. May I ask you if you have an adjustable quadrant ?, it would help if you don't. Mine is adjusted such that the clutch brg is barely stopping turning when disengaged. Still, next clutch will be an OEM one, I never ended up having the same feeling with the one I used to have with the OEM one with after market ones...

I think you just properly point out the issue, "thin" disc !

**** it is frustrating not being able to "enjoy" (power shift) the car, it is a whole different beast when standard shifting and power shifting

[Mach828]

TOB just died on me. I knew it was going to happen because with my current thick disc and high clamp pressure plate, I had to keep the clutch cable much tighter than it should be.

Although I nearly just said screw it and started ordering parts for an auto swap, I think i'll try a new clutch. This will be my 9th time dropping the transmission.

The best clutch for me has been the RAM HDX. Its only rated at 400hp, but I ran it before and loved it. Smooth pedal, easy to shift at 7,000, and it only needed light contact with the pressure plate to disengage. This allowed me to actually adjust the cable properly so my TOB would last. They say its not recommended with slicks but it held up before.

[not a gt]

Man 828, that sucks. I know I pulled tranny twice for TOB going out, I had CenterForce DF and hated it (it only lasted abiut 15,000 miles). I have had the Zoom Stage 2 now for awhile and have been happy with it on the street and at the track. Kurgan adjusted the cable when I had my tune (I thought it was supposed to be hard to press pedal, when he got done felt like he added a slave cylinder lol). I have the Steed adj quadrant and only one time have I actually had to adjust with probably 20,000 miles on it. I know you will be back in the game soon, good luck.
For your application (high clamp pressure), is there a "Heavy Duty Racing" TOB??