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Old 06-07-2004, 01:09 PM   #26
03ZincMach1
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this would be an excellent opportunity for someone to make some money.
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JLT CAI, 2.93 Lightning Pulley, Ported TB and Plenum, TR6's at .035
HPP Racing Dyno Tune = 457hp & 458tq (heat soaked)

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Old 06-07-2004, 04:02 PM   #27
Mach1Canuck
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patent pending....

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2003 Mustang Mach 1
Torch Red, 5-Speed
w/ IUP

Steeda Tri-Ax
Steeda Sport Springs
UPR Adjustable LCA's
Offset Urethane Rack Bushings
Maximum Motorsports Full Length SFC's
Ford Racing 4.10 Ring/Pinion
JLT CAI
Ported/Polished TB/Upper Intake
PHP Intake Spacer
NGK TR6 Plugs, Gapped @ .050
MAC O/R Prochamber
Borla Stinger Exhaust
SCT Custom Tune
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Old 06-07-2004, 05:28 PM   #28
DanK
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This wouldn't adversely affect the cats after a period of time would it? You know, the unburnt fuel/burble? THX

Oh yeah, what's the advantage to the rpm's dropping more rapidly than they already do on my Mach? I've owned and tuned some carb cars before and yes the efi does seem to hang a bit more, but not annoyingly on my Mach at least. thanks for the info.
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Last edited by DanK; 06-07-2004 at 05:31 PM.
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Old 06-07-2004, 06:11 PM   #29
03ZincMach1
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dank yours might not b bad

mach1canuck, if you are willing to make me one I would be willing to pay you. lmk
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2004 Silver cobra vert
Flowmaster C/B,MAC O/R Prochamber, MGW Shifter, MM FLSFC's
JLT CAI, 2.93 Lightning Pulley, Ported TB and Plenum, TR6's at .035
HPP Racing Dyno Tune = 457hp & 458tq (heat soaked)

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Old 06-07-2004, 06:25 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally posted by DanK
This wouldn't adversely affect the cats after a period of time would it? You know, the unburnt fuel/burble? THX

Oh yeah, what's the advantage to the rpm's dropping more rapidly than they already do on my Mach? I've owned and tuned some carb cars before and yes the efi does seem to hang a bit more, but not annoyingly on my Mach at least. thanks for the info.
My RPM jumps to 1900/2000 RPM and slowly return to 1200 and then steady at 900 in a minute in the mornings. Now with the Borla Stingers on the way, I'm definitely going to do this trick. My wife thinks I'm revin deliberately in mornings.

My question is do I need to remove it prior to the emissions test? Probably should.
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Old 06-07-2004, 06:59 PM   #31
burl
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Any warranty issues with this mod?
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Old 06-07-2004, 07:33 PM   #32
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DanK: Cats, yes it could affect them, but they really only handle a lot of unburnt fuel at startup anyways right? Before things have warmed up. And isn't there a pair of pre-cat oxygen sensors to help the computer tune the A/F ratio? Interesting to see if they compensate.
The advantage the having the RPM's drop more quickly, is that, I *HATE* how they stay where they are, or even increase when you go to shift gears. I did this to make the car act more *carburated*, less computer control y'know? I like to call the shots and let the car know when to add air/fuel. As a plus, the car sounds wayyy cooler when you let off the throttle (at least on a stick).

03ZincMach1: I could make you one as a direct copy of mine, the only thing I would be concerned with is that you would like the amount of *restriction* I use, like how fast the RPM's drop. I think it's like a personal preference thing. Also, the amount of mods you have on your car, will probably affect how much air the car needs (how big the hole might be), so what's great on my car, might make no difference, or just stall your car out. See what I mean? If I get ambitious soon, I'll just scan in a template that you could print and use to make the plate. By the way, it's not so much a *plate*, like you can bend this aluminum betwen two fingers, it's just stiff enough to work. But, let me know if you still want me to try.

Mach1Speed: Yeah, I'd probably remove it before the emissions test,you probably wouldn't fail a visual(if you did they're looking wayyy too close), but the smog test, unless your computer has learned to tweak the fuel (the jury is still out on whether it does), you might give off too much smog.

Burl: Warranty Issues, there could be, I'm not a Ford Engineer.. this could cause your airbags to deploy and your tires to deflate for all I know.. The only thing I know is, this fixed my hanging RPM problem, made the car sound cool, and ate up a Saturday afternoon(gave me an excuse not to mow the lawn).
Honestly though, As long as you are clean, don't get metal shavings in your intake, and don't break anything, I don't really see any problems.
But, as with anything else, I would remove this before running to your dealer with a blown engine and they cancel your warranty.
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2003 Mustang Mach 1
Torch Red, 5-Speed
w/ IUP

Steeda Tri-Ax
Steeda Sport Springs
UPR Adjustable LCA's
Offset Urethane Rack Bushings
Maximum Motorsports Full Length SFC's
Ford Racing 4.10 Ring/Pinion
JLT CAI
Ported/Polished TB/Upper Intake
PHP Intake Spacer
NGK TR6 Plugs, Gapped @ .050
MAC O/R Prochamber
Borla Stinger Exhaust
SCT Custom Tune

Last edited by Mach1Canuck; 06-07-2004 at 07:36 PM.
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Old 06-07-2004, 07:47 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally posted by Mach1Canuck


Burl: Warranty Issues, there could be, I'm not a Ford Engineer.. this could cause your airbags to deploy and your tires to deflate for all I know..

:LAUGH: :LAUGH: :LAUGH:
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Old 06-07-2004, 09:47 PM   #34
dmjasmith
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Just for the H*ll of it

I did this mod to see the effects.
Before:
No current issues with hanging or increasing RPMs during idle or initial startup, but I do see the hanging RPM's during shifting. Although it was not that big of a deal to me, I wanted to try this anyway.
After:
The small hole size I went for was 1/4". First thing I noticed when I crunk her up was the strong smell of unburned fuel. First trip out it definately brought your RPM's back to level very quickly. During coasts with the clutch still engaged, it does give more braking effect to the engine. And definately gave more gurgle. Throttle felt a bit more responsive during the first few minutes of running. But after a quick ride around the block, I returned and let the car idle for a moment. I gave it a quick pat on the throttle to about 2500 and let off, the rpms stayed at 1100 for 10 to 15 seconds, then took a dive to 300 and slowly came back up to 800. Did this scenario several times with the exact same outcome.

That was enough for me. Maybe I needed to increase the hole diameter to get a smoother idle. I'll stick with the way things were. I had no problem with it, just wanted to tinker a bit.

Good idea for someone with chronic symptoms. But if just want to tinker, not worth the hassle.

PS, got my metal from Lowes, in the rain gutter section. I bought a rain gutter end cap, had just enough metal to do the job, $1.31.

Anyone in Atlanta want an IAC valve restrictor plate?? 10 bucks and its yours.
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Old 06-07-2004, 10:05 PM   #35
cgg074
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Can anyone host a photo that I took of the plates that I made?

PM me your email and I will send it to you so you can host it somewhere.

Thanks!
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Old 06-08-2004, 01:33 AM   #36
cgg074
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Here you go guys.

Here's the photo of the two plates that I made, the original gasket, and the IAC.
The one to the left has a 9/32 hole, and the one to the right has a little bit smaller hole; I will try this one first. If it stalls, I will use the 9/32.

Hope this helps!
Attached Thumbnails
restrictor plate.jpg  
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Old 06-08-2004, 02:58 AM   #37
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There you go, thats the gear all right.

Should make it a little easier for people, better than my half *** description at least..
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2003 Mustang Mach 1
Torch Red, 5-Speed
w/ IUP

Steeda Tri-Ax
Steeda Sport Springs
UPR Adjustable LCA's
Offset Urethane Rack Bushings
Maximum Motorsports Full Length SFC's
Ford Racing 4.10 Ring/Pinion
JLT CAI
Ported/Polished TB/Upper Intake
PHP Intake Spacer
NGK TR6 Plugs, Gapped @ .050
MAC O/R Prochamber
Borla Stinger Exhaust
SCT Custom Tune
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Old 06-08-2004, 03:05 AM   #38
cgg074
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Mach1Canuck,

Have you experienced a low idle or a dive to low rpms then slowly back to normal just like dmjasmith experienced??

Maybe the 1/4" hole was too small.
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Old 06-08-2004, 03:39 AM   #39
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I did experience that when the hole I made was too small, around 7/32 or so. Also, the engine came *very* close to stalling out when I turned on A/C and the compressor came on. Thats when I enlarged the hole to where it is now.. 9/32 or just a *touch* bigger...(from smoothing out the sharp edges with a file)

The way mine is now, there is no drastic RPM dive, no erratic operation.
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2003 Mustang Mach 1
Torch Red, 5-Speed
w/ IUP

Steeda Tri-Ax
Steeda Sport Springs
UPR Adjustable LCA's
Offset Urethane Rack Bushings
Maximum Motorsports Full Length SFC's
Ford Racing 4.10 Ring/Pinion
JLT CAI
Ported/Polished TB/Upper Intake
PHP Intake Spacer
NGK TR6 Plugs, Gapped @ .050
MAC O/R Prochamber
Borla Stinger Exhaust
SCT Custom Tune
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Old 06-08-2004, 09:24 AM   #40
ttown
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Look at this link

Someone did a very good job of taking pictures of the whole operation:


http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=470711
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Old 06-08-2004, 10:36 PM   #41
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I went to a dealer and did a test-drive on a 2004 Cobra.

It feels awesome!!

And the RPM's don't hang. They come down very fast.

So my question is, WHY OUR MACH'S EXPERIENCE HANGING RPM'S??

We don't share the same exact engines, but we both have 4.6L Modular V8 DOHC 32-Valves.

As soon as I get rid of the Data Recorder on my car, I will install my restrictor plate.

:THUMBSUP:

I really hate those hanging RPM's and the car driving for itself for a few seconds when releasing the gas pedal.
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Last edited by cgg074; 06-08-2004 at 10:40 PM.
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Old 06-08-2004, 11:30 PM   #42
Mach1Canuck
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I would suspect it has to do with the car being supercharged. Being that it probably has a different intake setup than the mach... can anyone check this out if they have a cobra? I'm prety sure it has an internal IAC supply fromt he intake.
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2003 Mustang Mach 1
Torch Red, 5-Speed
w/ IUP

Steeda Tri-Ax
Steeda Sport Springs
UPR Adjustable LCA's
Offset Urethane Rack Bushings
Maximum Motorsports Full Length SFC's
Ford Racing 4.10 Ring/Pinion
JLT CAI
Ported/Polished TB/Upper Intake
PHP Intake Spacer
NGK TR6 Plugs, Gapped @ .050
MAC O/R Prochamber
Borla Stinger Exhaust
SCT Custom Tune
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Old 06-09-2004, 09:04 PM   #43
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I did my little IAC mod Monday night. Picked up a piece of sheet metal from Pep Boys for $3. Used my dremel to make the holes, and a pair of tin snips to cut the outline. 9/32 worked like a charm, and I have no more hanging RPM's! Shifting now is sweet, and you can get through the gears faster.

Thanks again Mach1Canuck! Awesome little mod...
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Old 06-10-2004, 11:41 AM   #44
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Could this help those of us with the K & N Aircharger stalling problem? I notice when my car stalls, the idle fluctuates and then dies. I read somewhere that the Aircharger makes the car run too lean. I'm getting to the point where I don't want to drive the car anymore. I thought I had it cured, and then it started stalling again.

Any insight would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 06-10-2004, 07:54 PM   #45
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Quite possibly...its only 1 hour wasted if it *doesn't* help.....
Not much to lose to try it out.

Good luck with it!
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2003 Mustang Mach 1
Torch Red, 5-Speed
w/ IUP

Steeda Tri-Ax
Steeda Sport Springs
UPR Adjustable LCA's
Offset Urethane Rack Bushings
Maximum Motorsports Full Length SFC's
Ford Racing 4.10 Ring/Pinion
JLT CAI
Ported/Polished TB/Upper Intake
PHP Intake Spacer
NGK TR6 Plugs, Gapped @ .050
MAC O/R Prochamber
Borla Stinger Exhaust
SCT Custom Tune
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Old 06-11-2004, 11:07 AM   #46
cono
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Manufacture

As a suggestion, can someone make a standard size plate and is at the smallest setting, which can then be modified by the owner to the correct size?

This would be worth $20-$30 bucks to me for someone to come up with the proper quality plate and a minimum (starting) hole size so that it can be fine tuned.

Any takers?

I have no tooling for such a project, but I know that this car has a problem (not according to the dealership, as of yesterday). Mine takes 10 seconds or better to reach 900 rpm after accelerating in first and second gears - it sucks!
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Old 06-11-2004, 11:47 AM   #47
grodgers
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Those symptoms are...

Quote:
Originally posted by Skoozo
Could this help those of us with the K & N Aircharger stalling problem? I notice when my car stalls, the idle fluctuates and then dies. I read somewhere that the Aircharger makes the car run too lean. I'm getting to the point where I don't want to drive the car anymore. I thought I had it cured, and then it started stalling again.

Any insight would be greatly appreciated.
classic symptoms of an intake leak - most probably post MAF. You should double/triple/quadruple check your K/N install.
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Old 06-16-2004, 02:02 PM   #48
mach1speed
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Quote:
Originally posted by SVTSnake
I did my little IAC mod Monday night. Picked up a piece of sheet metal from Pep Boys for $3. Used my dremel to make the holes, and a pair of tin snips to cut the outline. 9/32 worked like a charm, and I have no more hanging RPM's! Shifting now is sweet, and you can get through the gears faster.

Thanks again Mach1Canuck! Awesome little mod...
Installed mine yesterday and this morning was the quietest startup (quick return to 1000 rpm). Can't wait to install the Borlas when it arrives.

Shifting is just like my 71 mustang and loving it!!.

Thanks again Mach1Canuck. :THUMBSUP:
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'03 Mach 1, 5spd, IUP, Azure Blue
---- Borla, Borla, Borla!
'01 GT, Auto, Zinc Yellow
---- Borlas, why not?
'71 Mach 1, 4spd, M-code, Bright Blue Met.
---- Dynomax

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Old 06-16-2004, 03:14 PM   #49
Donathan
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Re: Manufacture

Quote:
Originally posted by cono
As a suggestion, can someone make a standard size plate and is at the smallest setting, which can then be modified by the owner to the correct size?

This would be worth $20-$30 bucks to me for someone to come up with the proper quality plate and a minimum (starting) hole size so that it can be fine tuned.

Any takers?

I have no tooling for such a project, but I know that this car has a problem (not according to the dealership, as of yesterday). Mine takes 10 seconds or better to reach 900 rpm after accelerating in first and second gears - it sucks!
Cono,

I would be happy to make you one free of charge. I'm currently working on an article for my mustang club on how to do this. I need to make pictures anyway and I will just ship you the end product. Send me a PM of your address.

Mach1Canuck,

Thanks again for this wonderful tip. I plan on giving you the credit for figuring this one out to my club members. :THUMBSUP:
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Old 06-16-2004, 04:51 PM   #50
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No problemo guys. The thread on Stangnet another member made has some realy good pics of the install. Pretty much foolproof, you should ask him for the use of the pics if you want to.
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2003 Mustang Mach 1
Torch Red, 5-Speed
w/ IUP

Steeda Tri-Ax
Steeda Sport Springs
UPR Adjustable LCA's
Offset Urethane Rack Bushings
Maximum Motorsports Full Length SFC's
Ford Racing 4.10 Ring/Pinion
JLT CAI
Ported/Polished TB/Upper Intake
PHP Intake Spacer
NGK TR6 Plugs, Gapped @ .050
MAC O/R Prochamber
Borla Stinger Exhaust
SCT Custom Tune
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