I need help if I am to do this right..

[Stilletto]

Hi All, been a while but now that my finances are in order I am thinking of a major build up of my stock 04 Mach.

I am trying to do this smart right from the beginning, because I know that if I go into it without planning it will a) be a mess and b)be far more expensive.

So, can you guys help me plan this build?
Here is where I am at:

Upgraded Brakes
MGW Short Throw
KN drop in
JBA O/R Mid
Flowmasters
McLeod Billet Flywheel
Exedy Stage 2 Clutch (Ford Racing TOB and Pilot Bearing)
Motor has 140K Runs Perfect


Where I want to be:

455WHP...Don't really care how I get there, just want to have more than the Current Stangs do. I love the Mach and will never sell it.
I also want this to be a reliable build to last another 100k+ miles as it will see only light track days

Since the car does have 140k on it, a rebuild would not be totally a waste, right? From what I understand, my options are to rebuild the current motor and only change out the rods and pistons, add a fuel pump and injectors, and supercharge it. The other path would be to get another block and build it.
I am interested in ALL opinions and advice! Cost is always a concern but I want to do this RIGHT.

[NastyNate]

If it was me Id throw a Procharger or Votech on it without opening up the motor. Check comp and do a leak down. If its all good slap the blower on with a conservative tune. But how long will you be happy around 450 hp ??? Eventually youll want more ....then you could just have your motor built. to do your motor with the minimuims rod, pistons, bearings, machine work and refreshing the heads you be $5k+ deep and still have to spend for a blower. If your motor run good jus put a blower on it and save $$ in case it goes.

[Stilletto]

Hmmm....So you are saying that since I have to spring for a SC I might as well get it first? I have thought about that but I would hate to pay twice to have it installed, unless I do it myself. Still, might be a good option.

What is the 2017 concensus on doing various mods like underdrive pulleys, intake spacers and throttle bodies? Any of those worth it or are they $$$ for no real gainz? From my searching they all add very little but may add up.

Back to the blower, are my roots style options still limited to eaton swaps?

[DSG2003Mach1]

I wouldn't bother with that little stuff and the tbs cause plenty of issues.

Installing the blower the first time is where the work is, after that it's no big deal as most of the piping and such stay in place (centri anyway) even with a pd it's not a big deal

You can put any PD blower that will fit a terminator but you have to have all of an Eaton swap minus the blower

[Stilletto]

Thanks for the input guys, sorry for all the questions. I have been out of this stuff for a while.

So, perhaps I will go ahead and SC my car WHILE I build another motor to drop in. I remember there used to be a 4.6 Aluminator block for this purpose but it appears it is out of production. Is there currently a block in production that will mount up to our cars?

[DSG2003Mach1]

i dont know if you can get a block from a 3v GT still or not, last year woulda been 2010 I think. Theres nothing wrong with a good seasoned block though and you can find the 3 valve 4.6 blocks much cheaper than the Teksid blocks typically, the 3v block is the strongest aluminum 4.6 block.

I dont believe there are any 4.6 high performance shortblocks available from Ford, I think theyre all set up to be closer to a 5.0 now and seems they have issues with head gasket sealing at high boost.The pistons in those shortblocks arent the greatest either, from my understanding theyre like the aluminator/terminator motors and tend to break a ringland if you have any detonation where an aftermarket piston like something from Diamond is much more robust. When I had to rebuild my aluminator we went to a diamond piston for that reason (both tuner and builder agree in separate conversations)

[Stilletto]

Is this a good deal on a practically new teksid block? Considering it's free shipping?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1996-1997-19...6368#vi-ilComp

[DSG2003Mach1]

No, is get a used block for $200-300 and have it cleaned up. If the block has ever been used it's going to require some machine work still

[03Shadow Grey]

http://pensacola.craigslist.org/pts/5941529966.html
check this out.

[DSG2003Mach1]

Can't see the webbing to know if it's a teksid, if you're gonna spend a decent amount on a block or should be a teksid or aluminator imho

[Stilletto]

I'll call him tomorrow and get a pic from the top. Thanks, good find

[DSG2003Mach1]

You may be able toooknup those casting and part numbers as well

[Tommy Z]

Maybe not exactly what you're looking for, but I'd freshen up the suspension if you haven't already. New lower and upper control arms at the very minimum. These cars are over 10 years old and I have seen firsthand (my own a few days ago) just how much the bushings degrade.

[SuperMach1]

Buy a procharger kit there will be a P1 for sale soon (mine).

[4a7191a]

https://lmr.com/item/M9000PMCM/ford-...X8QaAoRm8P8HAQ

The expensive route... But the hp is there.
Honestly with 140k miles I'd do header back exhaust, rear end gear and axel setup to 31 spline, trans wise you have the right idea and not boost the motor. It would last alot longer. 450+ hp on stock bottom end is a matter of time til something let's go.
I settled long ago for all motor on the mach so I'm biased , but if I wanted boosted mustang I'd buy a cobra or Shelby.

[DSG2003Mach1]

^ that actually doesnt seem tooo terrible and the 2015 motors will hold a lot of power

[4a7191a]

Thinking of doing it instead of building the lightning motor when I comes time.

[DSG2003Mach1]

going off track a bit I guess but people are buying pre 15 coyote motors out of wrecked F150s with steering column, cluster and all that stuff for like 3k. Cheap way to get a motor.

I want another lightning sooooo bad, wish I never ever got rid of mine...didnt know what was gonna happen with their values

[Stilletto]

Originally Posted by 4a7191a

https://lmr.com/item/M9000PMCM/ford-...X8QaAoRm8P8HAQ

The expensive route... But the hp is there.
Honestly with 140k miles I'd do header back exhaust, rear end gear and axel setup to 31 spline, trans wise you have the right idea and not boost the motor. It would last alot longer. 450+ hp on stock bottom end is a matter of time til something let's go.
I settled long ago for all motor on the mach so I'm biased , but if I wanted boosted mustang I'd buy a cobra or Shelby.

That is a good price....but it's not enough power without a SC.

But then again, with one...wow.....
And a new tranny....hmmm...

I do plan on doing the suspension as well, basically a brand new setup all the way around. I'm replacing practically everything.

I am of the mind that I would rather make a new car out of this one than 30000+ for a new one that is soooooo common nowadays....

[4a7191a]

I've got a buddy who parted together a coyote and auto into his old school lightning.
Twin 62's and a streetable low 10sec truck was created. I think it went into the 9's as of late too. He did use an aluminunator motor though which is more costly .

[ab_mach1]

Originally Posted by 4a7191a

https://lmr.com/item/M9000PMCM/ford-...X8QaAoRm8P8HAQ

The expensive route... But the hp is there.
Honestly with 140k miles I'd do header back exhaust, rear end gear and axel setup to 31 spline, trans wise you have the right idea and not boost the motor. It would last alot longer. 450+ hp on stock bottom end is a matter of time til something let's go.
I settled long ago for all motor on the mach so I'm biased , but if I wanted boosted mustang I'd buy a cobra or Shelby.

This is my opinion as well (not that it matters lol). I just feel like boosted Mach's are such a huge loss compared to a Cobra or Shelby should you ever have to sell.

What about cams along with this? Would ~350rwhp get you close enough to satisfy?

[Stilletto]

I'm afraid that's not enough...minimum is 450whp. Idea is that I want to be decidedly faster than the new 5.0. I plan to keep this car for quite some time, hence the complete refresh. I honestly think that these cars will stop dropping and start increasing in value before I get rid of it....that's my story and I'm sticking to it!

Car is currently in the shop getting the upgraded clutch kit/flywheel and exhaust in my sig.

Still trying to decide on what motor to build.
What I would like is least hassle block to bolt in.
Going to talk with the machine shop this week to discuss some things, hopefully will find a block soon.

Is there such a thing as overbuilding for reliability?

[blown03Mach1]

FWIW when I did my mods with a goal of 450+ RWHP, I guess I took the long route. First thing I did was have the rear end built up with changing the rear gear, girdle, LCA, UCA, torque boxes welded up, and axle tubes welded. From there I did longitudes and added a P1. Next was the T56 and that is where she was for nearly 5 years over 100+ blast down the track with only a clutch needing replacement. Never a single breakdown and mine was tuned to 458RWHP on a loaded dyno.

Of course in there I also did HR & SS, Billstein HD, Steeda front suspension stuff, clutch quadrant, shifter, etc, but those had zero impact on RWHP.

[Stilletto]

Good info. That's likely where I am going to start next, likely an Eaton posi.


I have been unable to find a block so far, thinking of taking afore mentioned advice and expand search to a 3v.

[Stilletto]

Just picked up the car. WOW the exhaust sounds fantastic. The clutch is definitely different than stock. You let it out most of the way, nothing. Until the very last bit of travel then it bites. Gonna have to get used to that, I was lazy with the stock clutch, which is probably one of the reasons the TOB went.