Front Brakes How to:

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Front COBRA, BULLITT, MACH1 brakes

This is a very simple less than one hour job for everything.

Pads:

I recommend the motorcraft ones. They are anywhere from $95-$105 at most Auto supply stores or performance shops. Motorcraft Part # is BR12B or Ford's part # is 2U2Z-2V001-PA




Jack the car up. Place a Jack stand at an appropriate place just incase the jack decides to go on vacation while you’re underneath the car at some point.

These are self explanatory:




Some of the tools needed to do the job...specially if you'll be replacing the rotors. The two 15mm bolts will require a breaker bar, a regular socket wrench and some lock-tite (thread locker) for when you're bolting things up.

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1. Take the wheel off…and turn the wheels so that the rear part of the rotor is exposed.


2. Take the C clip (some people call it an E clip) and washer off as shown:


3. Slide the retainer pin off as shown:


4. Slides right off:


5: Raise the caliper from the bracket as shown from the rear:

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6: Slides right off:


7: The bracket is exposed. If you’re going to be replacing the rotors, all you have to do is take the two 15mm bolts out. (In this pic, I am using a cheapo old bent torque wrench that I now use as a breaker-bar/leverage wrench because of how long and strong it is.). When the 2 bolts are out. The bracket slides off and you can remove the rotor and replace it with a new one, OR you can have the old one resurfaced with a lathe. Also known as "turning" the rotors. Most auto parts stores charge a simple $6-10 bucks to resurface each rotor. There is a minimum thickness required for each rotor, thus if your rotor is too thin to remove the thin layer, they will not do it. Most rotors can only be resurfaced with a lathe just once in the life of the rotor.


8: When you have the rotors out and replaced, you need to use some thread locker on those two 15mm bolts. Apply as shown:


9: Back to the pads job…Slide the old brake pads off


10: Rotate the old pads, and Flip them upside down so that the flat surface rests against the pistons and the "raised" part of the pad is on the bottom as shown. Helps the tool catch on it to help push the pistons back..

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11: Place the caliper push in tool as shown and screw on the tool to push the pistons back in. Some people can sometimes use their palms to push the pistons back in. This tool is available at most Auto parts stores for cheap. Anywhere from $5-10 bucks There are various different ones that are much more efficient and might cost a little more. (NOTE: Front calipers are PUSH IN only!! Rear Calipers are SCREW IN only, thus there are different tools for the F and R).



12: This just shows what I use to hang my calipers. Old Clothes hangar bent to do the job. Cheap and efficient.



13: Assemble the anti-rattle clips on the new pads just as they were on the old ones. I normally transfer the little rubber absorbers from the old pads onto the new clips as well. Every effort to avoid the micro vibration caused by the pads vibrating in their “slot” is best. You know that trailer truck noise that you hear from some car’s brakes sometimes? Those are caused by this micro-vibration.




14: Place the new pads onto the caliper.

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Then Slide the caliper onto the rotor front in forward first as shown. The pad’s front protrusion part slips into the bracket’s U shaped groove at the front and stays locked in.


15: Push down on the rear part of the caliper, then slide the pin as shown. You can “tap” it gently until it’s all the way in.


16: Next slide the washer into the end of the pin, and lock the C clip into place. You might have to “tap” on it as well to make it lock into the groove on the pin.


17: Screw the cap back onto the brake fluid reservoir. (Oh yeah, and if your engine is this dUrty, clean the **** thing..next mod)


18: Put the wheel back on, tighten your lugs, take the jack-stand and jack out and go for a spin.

(VERY IMPORTANT NOTE: Bedding your pads is very necessary as well as seasoning your new rotors. Do not heat up your pads too soon or unnecessarily or you will GLAZE them. You can also WARP your new rotors if you heat them up too quickly and their metallic composition does not get to set itself. BE gentle for the first few times you drive your car. You can research this for how it’s done with a simple Google search)

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The ones that come stock are the ones you see that I took off. They have a slightly higher metallic content in them than the Motorcraft ones. The higher metallic content means that the metal contained in the pad composition is higher which results in a noisy "squeal" when coming to a stop. This is normally due to the metal particles in the pad being of a thicker grade and are sometimes resistant to wearing away as they should. This means that it takes weeks to grind/wear down and causes grooves in your rotor and that dreadful noise at the same time.

My GF absolutely HATED that noise on her Terminator. She was used to the quietness from her X5 that she sometimes drives and she nagged me to get that done..which as you can see from the pics, I took care of yesterday. The best replacement pad are the motorcraft which have a slight less metallic composition and is easier on the rotors as well...BUT also offers the exact same stoppage that the stock PBR (australian made) ones that came with the car. Ford charges $207.15 for those retail. (discounted is normally about $150-160). The motorcraft are $95-105 on average.

[Olivas]

Very nice write up. :ORANGE: :ORANGE:

[hawk]

Originally Posted by Olivas

Very nice write up. :ORANGE: :ORANGE:

I agree. Another Sticky for 006...

[rich1]

Good write up.I would add that any time the pads are replaced the rotors should be sanded or turned.l

[03blachmach]

i know this is probably a stupid question but i noticed where you said screw the cap back on the brake fluid res. when finished, are you sposed to take the cap off before you start;for air bubbles or something?