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Old 02-16-2016, 01:35 PM   #1
Mister L
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auto car to 8 bolt crankshaft 4.6L

I just did an engine change on my 03 auto Mach with 200,400 miles on it. My replacement engine was from eBay and is an original, NEW, old stock manufactured short block, pn XR3Z-6009-BA dated Jan 2008. It was a short block only and this is not a reman but an original production block. Of course, following the fitment guide on eBay said it wouldn't fit but running that part number against Fords website said otherwise.

Here are the issues when changing from a 6 bolt cast crank to an 8 bolt forged crank in the Ford 4.6L engines we have. You have to change the Flexplate to an 8 bolt unit and I bought mine from Summit. It is an ATP Z-346, 8 bolt, 164 tooth, neutral balanced and it fit perfect and cost was 38 bucks. You must also use auto flexplate bolts to attach it as the 8 bolts for a manual flywheel are too long and will bottom out in the crank flange. You should replace the flexplate bolts and I bought mine from Ford p/n F1AZ-6379-A for 1.97 ea. Additionally, the torque converter bolt pattern for this flexplate is 11.44" and your stock converter is like 10.5 so it won't fit.

I picked up a rebuilt torque converter from Blumenthals Transmissions here in OKC that had the 11.44 bolt spacing and fits perfectly in the 4R70W transmission and matches the ATP flexplate. It is a Dayco F60 according to Blementhals and is industry standard. It is larger than stock dimensionally but fits well in the bellhousing and is equivelant to your stock converter. This new engine is not built for racing but dependability as a daily driver so a high stall converter was not what I was after. I likewise replaced the torque converter nuts which are self locking, p/n -378941-S441 (package of 4). I also changed the input shaft seal p/n F2VY-7A248-A since I was changing the converter.

Coolant crossover O-ring p/n -391533-S100

I bought a set of motor mounts from NAPA and they were annotated as w/o Appearance Package and compared to the old ones were about 3/4 inch too tall. Their other option for 4.6s had incorrect block attach points and I was then told that all the local shops will not use aftermarket mounts becuase of poor fit. So, if replacing motor mounts, get OEM. I decided not to change mine.

FWIW, I have the 4.6l Hot Rodding book by Sean Hyland and in his book he talks about harmonic balancers. I personally spoke with him yesterday and he confirmed the use of the automatic harmonic balancers from a Mach1 to be used with either the cast 6 bolt or forged 8 bolt crankshafts in a 4.6 with Autotrans. It was likewise his comment on the flywheel bolts bottoming out if you use them with a flexplate. Use the shorter bolts.

Engine is being installed in the car today but I thought I would share my experience with this change while I still had data. And yes, out the bottom, not out the top in my garage! Hope this helps anyone considering this change.
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Old 02-16-2016, 10:17 PM   #2
VA-Mach1
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Re: auto car to 8 bolt crankshaft 4.6L

That's good info thank you.

I needed the COT o-ring number. DO you have the number for the motor mounts?
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Old 02-18-2016, 08:54 AM   #3
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Re: auto car to 8 bolt crankshaft 4.6L

I do not know that p/n. I ended up using my originals as they looked OK
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Old 03-28-2018, 02:49 PM   #4
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Re: auto car to 8 bolt crankshaft 4.6L

This is an older thread but wanted to see if anyone has done this recently.

My 03 auto Mach has a blown engine. I have come across a brand new 03 mach1 engine. It’s a manual with the 8 bolt crank. So wondering if I was going to upgrade the auto trans with a unit from preformance automatic could they prep it to bolt onto this 8 bolt Crank?

Also what are opinions on a new 03 engine that was purchased from ford a while back and has Ben sitting in a wearhouse. What does one do to bring this engine to back to life? Concerns?
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Kooks LTsw/OR X, elect cutouts, JLT RAI w/C&L 85 MAH,1" Spacer,PP Lower intake,Accufab TB,160 T-stat,EF Cooling Mod,NX Kit,Mez Electric Water pump,SLP Linelock,FRPP 4.10s-Alum Dif Cover-Alum Driveshaft & SL, Steeda Bumpsteer,MM Alum rack bushings,Deep Alum Tranny pan,Predator,Steeda AUCAs,MM ALCAs, Dspecs,MM CC plates & FLSFCs,MRT Guage cluster,AEM WB,MRT hood struts,Seq TLs, carbon fiber hood/trunk/Cobra wing,220 amp alt

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Old 03-28-2018, 03:08 PM   #5
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Re: auto car to 8 bolt crankshaft 4.6L

Quote:
Originally Posted by 3150Mach1 View Post
This is an older thread but wanted to see if anyone has done this recently.

My 03 auto Mach has a blown engine. I have come across a brand new 03 mach1 engine. It’s a manual with the 8 bolt crank. So wondering if I was going to upgrade the auto trans with a unit from preformance automatic could they prep it to bolt onto this 8 bolt Crank?

Also what are opinions on a new 03 engine that was purchased from ford a while back and has Ben sitting in a wear house. What does one do to bring this engine to back to life? Concerns?
Just got off the phone with performance automatic. They can prep their comp transmission for the 8 bolt and the 2400 stall which is perfect.

So only question is the engine sitting to long.
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2003 slowmatic 11.105@117mph w/125 shot of Nitrous best to date
Kooks LTsw/OR X, elect cutouts, JLT RAI w/C&L 85 MAH,1" Spacer,PP Lower intake,Accufab TB,160 T-stat,EF Cooling Mod,NX Kit,Mez Electric Water pump,SLP Linelock,FRPP 4.10s-Alum Dif Cover-Alum Driveshaft & SL, Steeda Bumpsteer,MM Alum rack bushings,Deep Alum Tranny pan,Predator,Steeda AUCAs,MM ALCAs, Dspecs,MM CC plates & FLSFCs,MRT Guage cluster,AEM WB,MRT hood struts,Seq TLs, carbon fiber hood/trunk/Cobra wing,220 amp alt
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Old 03-28-2018, 04:53 PM   #6
Mister L
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Cool Re: auto car to 8 bolt crankshaft 4.6L

I ended up selling my auto Mach to a buddy after putting about 1 or 2k miles on it. I went with Sean Highland’s recommendation on using auto cars original (cast crank) harmonic balancer mated to the 8-bolt forged crank. Car has a slight vibration in 1800-2000 rpm range while parked or doing 60mph (18-2000 rpm) down the road. Pulled driveshaft and tested on driveline machine for balance/runout and all checked good. Changed clocking of driveshaft to rear pinion-no change/still has slight vibration. When I changed torque converters, the one replacing original is larger in diameter and is balanced out of the trans minus fluid. I really think the vibration issue may be cured by replacing the neutral balanced flex plate with one like original (not sure of original flexplate balance properties or one of better quality) OR putting the forged crank/ 8 bolt harmonic balancer on the 8 bolt crank. It shifts fine but I wish it were smoother. No misfires, no codes, runs awesome and is not intended for race but just a daily driver. That’s the only issue I’ve had with an 8-bolt crank in auto Mach. An auto Mach balancer is heavier than the 8-bolt version. Perhaps there lies the problem with the larger diameter converter with the heavier harmonic balancer. I have a balancer off my manual car that I could put on it and test but I haven’t done it yet.

As for condition of engine that’s been sitting-if stored in a dry area I wouldn’t be too worried about it. My biggest fear would be hardened front or rear crank seals but those can be easily changed before installing in car
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