sutyak's turbo 2004 Mach 1 build thread

[sutyak]

I took the turbine housing from the Borg Warner to my buddy at Fox's Machining, and he did a perfect job of machining the face of the flange to match a 3.5" v-band flange. This will be far more convenient. The actual inner diameter of the opening is only about 3", so there is a 1/4" ring of unused space. I considered opening it up a bit, but on the discharge side I really see no benefit.

Before/After






The BW doesn't fit exactly like the Precision did, but it's very close. I ordered a slimmer fan from a Volvo (more info later) so I can move the turbo 1/2" or so closer to the radiator for clearance. I'll have to modify the inlet pipe, downpipe, and likely make a new bracket or modify the existing.

While I have the interior out I've started the chassis strengthening modifications. I hope to finish up the subframe connectors today and get the torque box reinforcement plates in this weekend. More subframe pics after I clean everything up and paint them.

[TTSaleen]

Very nice!

[sutyak]

Finished up the full length subframe connectors and got those painted. I also painted the tubular front bumper support. It wasn't until I started taking apart the intercooler piping that I realized the car had absolutely no crash or bumper support whatsoever. I know this one isn't a crash bar, but hopefully it would save my intercooler from someone backing into me in a parking lot. I guess it also keeps the bumper from buckling at high speeds.
I'm slowly painting the roll bar dark shadow grey. The guy at Advance Auto asked me what I was painting and I told him a roll bar to match my car. His first thought was "oh, for a demo derby car?". Welcome to West Virginia.
As for gears, I'm still debating between 3.90 and 4.10. I should probably wait until I get some track and dyno time before I change the rear gear, but that doesn't mean I'll be practical and wait.
While I have the car torn apart this far I'm going to go ahead and install the stronger valve springs and 2001 Cobra intake cams. I will probably not degree them at this time. I mainly want to ensure the valvetrain will handle regular trips to 7K RPM in boost. I ordered a valve spring compressor from Euroexport that looks slick.



Painted support hanging on wall:


Gear comparisons at 1:1 in 4th gear. 134mph is the target for my roll bar. 140mph is for that "last pass of the day might as well get a 9 sec timeslip".
The problem at the moment is I don't know exactly where the peak HP will be of the new turbo. If my compressor map is correct, it will still be flowing fine at 7K, but that also depends on the turbine housing.

[sutyak]

Slimmer fan from a Volvo arrived. After trimming all the Volvo-specific tabs off the side it fits perfectly and provides some extra room. I still ended up trimming some from the top of the shroud for the turbine housing. The fan is definitely smaller than stock, but the full shroud should help a lot. I'm surprised the stock isn't. More pics of the fan after I get the turbo positioned and piping modified.

I finished up painting and clearing the roll bar, and am very happy with how it came out. I used many cans of Duplicolor dark shadow grey. It's extremely close to OEM color. It would probably match perfectly if the paint on the car was new. I'll put the roll bar back in the car after I install the upper torque box reinforcements.








The car has a thick layer of garage dust on it.


I took a break from working on the Mach to replace the A/C clutch on our daily beater car; a 2002 Toyota Echo. This has to be the easiest car in the world to work on and the parts are dirt cheap.
I did remove the paint from the face of the clutch prior to installing. I could have possibly just removed the shim so it made contact again, but with so much else going on I didn't want to waste the time in case that didn't work.

[ab_mach1]

I wonder if the shroud on the Volvo fan will improve cooling any compared to the stock setup?


Instagram - @ab_mach1

[sutyak]

Originally Posted by eruza

I wonder if the shroud on the Volvo fan will improve cooling any compared to the stock setup?

Assuming the fan can move the same amount of air, I believe it would since it is pulling air across the entire surface of the radiator and not just where the fan is. However this fan is smaller in diameter, so I have my doubts it moves as much air. I'm hoping it cools just as well, but I doubt it will cool more.
I also went with a 170 degree thermostat, so it may not be a fair comparison.
I'll be running this fan as a single speed, and update the tune for the high speed fan to kick on at a lower temp.

[TKat13]

My volvo fan improved cooling, still did not fix my issue but that is another story. However, it did prove to be more efficient. Your fan looked just like mine.

Your turbo flange machining is really nice, was it modeled after 'vibrant' brand?

[sutyak]

Originally Posted by TKat13

My volvo fan improved cooling, still did not fix my issue but that is another story. However, it did prove to be more efficient. Your fan looked just like mine.

Your turbo flange machining is really nice, was it modeled after 'vibrant' brand?

The flange is just one from ebay, but yes I believe the additional positive seating lip was copied from vibrant. That lip is extremely useful!

[sutyak]

I've been working on chassis reinforcements lately. After the subframe connectors were installed I moved on to torque box reinforcements. I went with bolt-in strengthening over full on battle boxes, but I think it might have been the same amount of effort to cut out the old and weld in all new.
The lowers were not too difficult. The opening to the LCA bolt had to be cut out to fit the 90 degree plate. I decided to just cut and resplice the ABS wires and run it through a smaller hole in the upper support plate. I did not weld the lower plate in. It didn't seem necessary to add to the strength, but I went ahead and welded the bolts solid to the plates.
The uppers are a pain with one person. Many, many trips in and out of the car. These I did weld. I also went ahead and welded the seams of the torque boxes.
Clearly whoever designed these decided they were for racecars only. The rear of the back seat does not fit wit the massive bolts sticking up through the floor pan. I improvised and, after securing all 4 bolts and welding down the plate, cut off the bolts flush with the upper plate, welded a washer to the plate for added thickness to run a hotter weld, then welded the bolt to the plate and washer. This way it's near-flush, but solid. I still have the driver's side upper to install, and then on to changing the rear gear.

Driver's side lower torque box reinforcement plate


Top plate of driver's side LCA reinforcement. Small hole for ABS wires.


Upper LCA reinforcement plate. What a pain. At least it welded well.


Bolts hit the lower bar of the rear seat

[sutyak]

UCA reinforcement and seams welded


UCA plate welded.


1/2" bolts cut off


Bolts welded


My swiss cheese chassis

[sutyak]

Underside painted. I'll get a better pic later.

[TKat13]

Nice work Mark!

[sutyak]

Originally Posted by TKat13

Nice work Mark!

Thanks! I'll make more progress after a few days of family time.

[sutyak]

Not much time to work on the Mach lately, but I did get some things accomplished. The torque box plates are complete. I also cleaned up some wiring from the fuel pump that was driving me crazy since it ran under the rear seat, and got pinched slightly whenever the back seat was installed.

It's time to add a 20 ton shop press to the garage. Once I pick one up I'll swap in the 4.10's. I had almost decided on the 3.90's just based on max mph in the 1/4, but decided against them after looking more closely at how they will affect my individual gears. With the new GeForce gear set, first gear goes from 3.38 to 2.9. It would actually take a roughly 4.15 rear gear to even make it match stock. With a 28" tire at the track the 4.10 with a 3.38 1st gear will still be longer than the stock 3650 and 3.55's.
Stock 3650, 3.38 1st, 26" tire, 3.55 rear = 42mph at 6500 RPM.
GF 3650, 2.90 1st, 28" tire, 4.10 rear = 45.5mph at 6500 RPM.
So a 4.10 and 28" tire will be equivalent to a stock Mach dropping down to a 3.27 rear gear as far as first gear is concerned.
So 4.10's it is for this trans.

Difficult to get a good photo in a dark car.


Where the ABS wires come through. I suppose I could have just deleted the ABS since the traction control is disabled anyway.


I'll do more painting later. There are more surface rust spots to clean up since the last owner parked it outside.

[sutyak]

I don't know what rock I've been under, but I've never seen a fuse holder like this. I was so frustrated when I saw this setup since I thought it didn't have fuses that I added some up towards the battery! Now there are two fuses in line to the fuel pumps. I prefer having them under the hood very close to the battery. There's a lot of hot wire between the trunk and battery to potentially fray, ground out, and burn my car to the ground.
I believe this is the Lethal Performance 850+whp fuel system.

[03Shadow Grey]

Yea, fuses are supposed to be as close to the source as possible.
Btw , I have been following this thread as you go and learning a lot ,looking great !

[TKat13]

I have a large fuse close to my battery (ran a 4 gauge line) and a fuse for each individual pump (3 of them), those are in the trunk. My 4 gauge wire drops in to my relay box, the relay box has built in fuses. It is a really clean system, I highly recommend it.

Fore Innovations http://www.foreinnovations.com/product_p/36-100.htm

[sutyak]

Thanks guys. Darrell that looks like a nice wiring kit. How's your car coming?

[TKat13]

Originally Posted by sutyak

Thanks guys. Darrell that looks like a nice wiring kit. How's your car coming?

Car is at a dead stop... I have been working to much to even take the cover off of it.

Also, August in a Texas working in the garage is NOT fun.

[fastlane]

Originally Posted by TKat13

I have a large fuse close to my battery (ran a 4 gauge line) and a fuse for each individual pump (3 of them), those are in the trunk. My 4 gauge wire drops in to my relay box, the relay box has built in fuses. It is a really clean system, I highly recommend it.

Fore Innovations http://www.foreinnovations.com/product_p/36-100.htm

This is a great setup and I am running it as well.

[sutyak]

I've been making a bit of progress, but nothing really picture worthy. Cleaning off layers of chipped paint from the rear calipers and repainting them. Today I'll tear into the rear to install the 4.10's.

[DSG2003Mach1]

Originally Posted by sutyak

I don't know what rock I've been under, but I've never seen a fuse holder like this. I was so frustrated when I saw this setup since I thought it didn't have fuses that I added some up towards the battery! Now there are two fuses in line to the fuel pumps. I prefer having them under the hood very close to the battery. There's a lot of hot wire between the trunk and battery to potentially fray, ground out, and burn my car to the ground.
I believe this is the Lethal Performance 850+whp fuel system.

not sure I really even thought about it when I installed mine, gonna have to go back and check if I added a fuse there or not. I think I did because originally I ran an upgraded power wire with the stock system then just used that wire to feed the lethal kit but maybe now

[sutyak]

Started the install of the 4.10's. Everything is out. I still need to replace the bearings on the diff, and then begin reassembly. Chipping away at thinks a couple of hours at a time when I can.
I'm using a spare pinion bearing with the center bored slightly that I can easily slide on and off to get the shim correct. Then I'll press on the permanent one. I measured the spare bearing and permanent bearing and the bearing+race depth is within .001", so I'm not concerned about shimming for one but using another.





3.55 left. 4.10 right.

[sutyak]

The Precision Gear 4.10's are in. Backlash is set at .011". Pinion shim is .02" (stock was .03"). Pinion bearing preload is 21 lb-in.
Certainly a manageable job on jack stands, but I would have much rather had the car on a lift. I'm mid way through changing the axle seals and bearings. The auto parts store didn't have two in stock, but I did go ahead and rent the slide hammer and axle seal pullers. Removing the bearings is a breeze with that slide hammer. I was in for a surprise when I saw how much sludge was in the axle tubes. I swore some of it was black RTV given the thickness, but it was just clumped gear oil. Tubes are nice and clean now.
Overall the install wasn't terribly difficult, but much more time consuming than I anticipated with the repeated assembly and disassembly of parts. Tightening the pinion nut was tedious, and took some serious muscle.
This job was the perfect excuse to finally buy a 20 ton floor press!





My pinion flange rig.




Done.

[sutyak]

I had a 1.75" ID exhaust pipe that worked perfectly to press on the pinion bearing. Must have been left over from a wastegate pipe.


Fun pic of the crank looking through the rear housing after installing new races.