Eaton Swap.....

[mach18604]

Originally Posted by machgsxr

I think nobody actually goes through and reads anything.

I plan on doing this Sawp next year.. And I am reading all the pages! haha

[agentorangeCH]

Originally Posted by xXAzureMach1Xx

Spin it counter clockwise.

I ordered a new one, cause the one I got was unusable.

I'm almost finished with the swap, could change the EGR tube ( have to lower the k-member for about 1.5inches), blower is installed. Just have to do the electrical things. Hope I get the balancer next week.

But I still have a problem with the fuel tank. It's very difficult to get a complete tank.

[SHAKN' 04]

Just modify yours. I have no problem with mine.

[machgsxr]

Originally Posted by agentorangeCH

I ordered a new one, cause the one I got was unusable.

I'm almost finished with the swap, could change the EGR tube ( have to lower the k-member for about 1.5inches), blower is installed. Just have to do the electrical things. Hope I get the balancer next week.

But I still have a problem with the fuel tank. It's very difficult to get a complete tank.

You can remove the egr tube without having to lower the motor. You just have to twist it certain ways.

[agentorangeCH]

Originally Posted by machgsxr

You can remove the egr tube without having to lower the motor. You just have to twist it certain ways.

Already changed the EGR tube.

About the tank. Is there a "upgrade kit" that I can use my tank with dual pumps? I want a easy solution, dont want to look on the fuel gauge all the time, if its 1/4 full.

[agentorangeCH]

Hi Guys

I just installed the vacuum harness and I have a tiny little problem. There is one "connector" which I dont now where to connect. It's the one which is a 90 degress angle.

I saw, that the line, which have to be connected with the air intake tube, has a "Y"-connector with a cap on it. Do I have to connect it with this one?

Added a pic of it

Edit: Could that be the line for the boost gauge on the cluster? I dont have the Termi cluster, so can I put a cab on it?

[mach18604]

So are there really parts that are discontinued ???

I may have to start looking for parts sooner then I thought!

[mach18604]

For the parts it looks like there is a "Eaton Swap" Tax on Ebay

[agentorangeCH]

Hi Guys

So I finished the electrical part yesterday and after I finished, I saw that I didnt have a connector for one of the solenoids on the driver side. It's the on in the middle.

Can someone tell me please, from where I get the wires for that?

[Kove]

Originally Posted by agentorangeCH

Hi Guys

I just installed the vacuum harness and I have a tiny little problem. There is one "connector" which I dont now where to connect. It's the one which is a 90 degress angle.

I saw, that the line, which have to be connected with the air intake tube, has a "Y"-connector with a cap on it. Do I have to connect it with this one?

Added a pic of it

Edit: Could that be the line for the boost gauge on the cluster? I dont have the Termi cluster, so can I put a cab on it?

Originally Posted by agentorangeCH

Hi Guys

So I finished the electrical part yesterday and after I finished, I saw that I didnt have a connector for one of the solenoids on the driver side. It's the on in the middle.

Can someone tell me please, from where I get the wires for that?

The connector that's not hooked to anything in your other picture here by the inlet of the blower. Is that it or is that the IAC connector. There's a connector that has to be extended to go to that sensor if I remember correctly.


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[agentorangeCH]

Originally Posted by Kove

The connector that's not hooked to anything in your other picture here by the inlet of the blower. Is that it or is that the IAC connector. There's a connector that has to be extended to go to that sensor if I remember correctly.


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Yes, one was for the inlet tube. There is another one, which I have to connect to the boost gauge on my gauge cluster. But I dont have the 03 Cobra cluster.

About the connector, it's not the same connector like the one from the IAC. I had to extend the IAC wire for about 3 inches, for the IAT2 I took the wires from MAF. I also have to extend the wires for the DPFE Sensor for the EGR. But about the one from my pic, I found nothing.

[Kove]

I'm not sure then. I did EGR delete when I did my swap, got rid of all those sensors on that bracket.


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[agentorangeCH]

So I'm finished with the swap! The car started immediately, but it seems that something isnt working. The car is vibrating and the idle rpms move always between 900 and ~1300 rpms. Thought the car was misfiring, so I checked all the spark plugs, but the locked good. Also tried to read the error code with my Xcal3 but I only get this P1000 drive cycle read error
I still run with the stock 01 Cobra pump and the tank is only 1/8 full, maybe less.


What could that be? Too less fuel in the tank?

Thanks for any help,

Sascha

[SHAKN' 04]

No vacuum leaks?

[agentorangeCH]

Originally Posted by SHAKN' 04

No vacuum leaks?

how can I check that? I installed all vacuum lines, except the one for the boost gauge, cause I dont have one. I just put a cap on it.

I have to say, I still run a previous tune from last year. Can that be a problem maybe?

Edit: I just flashed the stock tune back and it's a little bit better, the idle rmps doesnt move anymore between 900-1300, its around 1000 now. But the car is still extremly vibraiting. I only know that, when a spark plug isn't working.

Could it be something with the MAF or the IAT1/2?? I use the two outside wires and connected them to the IAT2 and the IAT1 is also connected and in the inlet tube.

[Flash88]

anyone use a relay for the intercooler pump? My tuner says it draws alot of amps.

[Kove]

Originally Posted by Flash88

anyone use a relay for the intercooler pump? My tuner says it draws alot of amps.

Mine is hooked up to key on power in the fuse box, no relay. My tuner says to disconnect the IC pump when flashing the computer due to the amount of amps it draws.


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[agentorangeCH]

I've just done some tests. When I disconnect the MAF, the idle is moving between 900-1500rpms. When I connect it, it's around 1000, but the car is vibraiting as hell. When I just give a little gas, so that it's around 2000rpms, the car runs smoother. Last time, when the car vibraited so much, it was caused of a blown spark plug. I checked them and all looked good for me. Someone told me I have to replace the spark plug with with colder one or so? Could it be a fuse or so? Cause the first time, when I started it, I heard a loud bang.

I also put some more fuel in the tank, now its around 1/4 full.

[SHAKN' 04]

What kind of plugs and what did u gap them to?

[agentorangeCH]

Originally Posted by SHAKN' 04

What kind of plugs and what did u gap them to?

Old ones were: awsf 32e

New one: awsf 32pp


Both are from Ford. The GAP is around 2mm (0.078"). I just saw, that I have to adjust the GAP, but I didnt have done that. Funny is, I bought them from the local Ford dealer and they didnt told me, that I have to do that.

[Kove]

NGK TR6 gapped at about .030


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[agentorangeCH]

Originally Posted by Kove

NGK TR6 gapped at about .030


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I think thats thats the problem. Have to ask the ford dealer if he has a gap adjust tool or so.

[Kove]

Yea, I would definitely get those plugs taken care of first. You can get a gap tool really cheap at any parts store. .078 is a huge gap. You can get NGK plugs at Autozone pre gapped for like $16.


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[agentorangeCH]

Originally Posted by Kove

Yea, I would definitely get those plugs taken care of first. You can get a gap tool really cheap at any parts store. .078 is a huge gap. You can get NGK plugs at Autozone pre gapped for like $16.


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We dont have something like Autozone here in Switzerland

NGK TR6 should be good or?

[Kove]

Oh ok, I didn't know where you were. The TR6 is probably the most popular plug among Terminators and Eaton swapped Mach 1s.


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