Eaton Swap.....

[DarkMach1]

Originally Posted by Kove

.......

Congrats, you just responded to a 2 month old question, but I understand you need to get a post in here and there. Thanks for your contribution.

[nickster]

Originally Posted by DarkMach1

Congrats, you just responded to a 2 month old question, but I understand you need to get a post in here and there. Thanks for your contribution.

he is just keeping up with you

[Kove]

Originally Posted by DarkMach1

Congrats, you just responded to a 2 month old question, but I understand you need to get a post in here and there. Thanks for your contribution.

Just wanted to make sure you knew that the search feature is still here and works..... I just tried it to find this thread.

[DarkMach1]

Originally Posted by Kove

Just wanted to make sure you knew that the search fearure is still here and works..... I just tried it to find this thread.

Oh I see, you're still sandy about what I said to you 6 months ago, even though I was the only one that actually helped you. Wow! Move on bro. Sit on a garden hose and clean out that sand before you get an infection.

PS: Yes, the search "fearure" still works.

[Fauxnali]

Wow!!! This is some thread. There are a couple of you guys on here that do some wicked work!
I have a hankering to pick up an Eaton...

[MDKilla]

Good write up and after reading all day.... after purchasing an eaton yesterday the kit begins....just curious wanting to go to a smaller pulley on the blower what's a wise choice? a buddy suggested the 2.76...any advice is appreciated thanks

[PharmDMach1]

Originally Posted by MDKilla

Good write up and after reading all day.... after purchasing an eaton yesterday the kit begins....just curious wanting to go to a smaller pulley on the blower what's a wise choice? a buddy suggested the 2.76...any advice is appreciated thanks

Ported or unported? Stock bottom end or not? A little more detail would help.

A 2.80 upper is perfect with a stock eaton or a 2.93 upper / 4lb lower for a ported one. However if your on the stock bottom, stay with the stock pulley or possibly a 3.40. Anything more than 10lbs is risking it

[MDKilla]

My bad it is imported and stock bottom end with a stock lower

[PharmDMach1]

In that case stock or 3.40, any more boost and your tune better be spot on.

[MDKilla]

Ok thanks that's main thing I wanted to check on before ordering one

[chevysRslow]

What spark advance and a/f ratio is everyone running?

[tvanlant]

I'm running 14* for a street tune, 16* at the track. 11.8 a/f for both tunes. 8 psi

[chevysRslow]

Sounds pretty safe.

Anyone running 18 degrees or more successfully?

[tvanlant]

Why risk it on these weak motors? Last weekend I ran 12.07 @ 122 mph with only the mods in my sig.... on street tires (not drag radials). That's even the stock air filter and tube.

[xXAzureMach1Xx]

Originally Posted by Mudd92

About the same here.

Im on the same alt for almost a yr now or maybe longer. I think with the 3.4 alt pulley and the added ground wire from the alt bracket to the battery helped or fixed it.

[snakebitx2]

Somebody asked me to show them how I did my heat exchanger brackets so I made a quick write up even though I didn't have everything I used to make them. At least if somebody needs an idea of how to do it they can see. I also made my own shaker bracket and just recently painted it along with my shaker so i'll add in those pictures. Hopefully this can help some of you save money during your eaton swap.



Things I used:
1) 2x4
2) Torch
3) C-Clamp
4) Work bench
5) Rubber Mallet
6) Aluminum Strip I bought at Home Depot
7) Drill and drill bits

I didn't get everything into the picture. I also don't have the 2x4 anymore so I used the skateboard just to show you the idea. A skateboard wouldn't really work for what we need.


- First I'll give you an idea of what the bracket ends up looking like. ( this is one I messed up on pretty bad, but it's the basic idea) You use two of these. The long part I used a self tapping screw for the top and bottom and then used a nut and bolt for the middle. The small lip on the back I used a nut and bolt.


- I didn't really measure the length very accurately, but just a rough estimate of where I was going to make the first bend, because I figured I'd just cut off the excess.

- Grab your 2x4 and put it on your work bench hanging over the edge. You want to use the ends of the 2x4, because the edges are closer to a 90* angle than the sides.

- Mark with a sharpy where you want your first bend to be on the aluminum strip.

- Put the aluminum strip on the 2x4 and line up the spot you marked with the sharpy to the edge of the 2x4.

- Grab your C-Clamp and tighten the aluminum strip to the 2x4 as close to the edge as you can.
Here's an example of what i'm talking about.


- Heat up the aluminum where you're going to bend it with your torch. ( A couple of minutes or so. It'll crack if it's to cold )


_ Grab the rubber mallet, before the aluminum has a chance to cool, and hit it down to a 90* angle.

- Now we have our first bend. I spent a long time trying to figure out how to do the 2nd bend with perfect measurements so it'd fit the H/E. I found out that the width of my C-Clamp was just about the same width as the H/E.

- So since I needed a nice 90* bend very close to my other one, I just put the aluminum in the c-clamp and tightened it down. Heated it up with the torch and hit it with the mallet until it was at a 90* angle.

- The next step is the hard one. What I ended up doing after messing up here a couple of times was getting both brackets to this step where you have a U shape and then proceed.

- Measure how far it is to the metal support in the back and mark it on both of the aluminum strips at the same time so they're even.

- Put both aluminum strips, side by side, on the 2x4 like you did above and bend them at the same time after heating and clamping. This way you know your brackets are both the same exact length. I heated them up for a pretty long time for this step, because I was hitting 2 at one time.

- After that you just slide your h/e between the clamps and screw your brackets in. There's a lip on the edge of the h/e that you slide the brackets over to so it can't slide side to side.

Sorry it's so vague, but it's pretty simple. If you have a better work area than I did i'm sure it'd be a lot easier. Also vice grips would probably work and what not. All you're doing is trying to make 2 identical brackets that are that shape. I've driven 1000 miles since my eaton swap and haven't had a problem yet. I think they're probably more stable than the stock brackets. If you have any questions let me know!

[snakebitx2]

[snakebitx2]

Here are the pics of the shaker bracket.

[jimligia]

Where can I find the lower intake manifold bolts and/or attachment hardware, are they in anyway special or just regular bolts,thanks

[ASMACH]

Im pretty sure u can have a hardware store match the up if u have on or u can call ur local dealer. I think MMR sells them too

[machgsxr]

ATTT: DANIEL

2r3z6312baa - Crank pulley /Harmonic Balancer
f1az6378a - washer for balancer
f5rz6a340b - bolt for balancer
2r3z10153ca - Bracket that replaces stk. alt. on 99-01 Cobra’s and 03/04 Mach 1’s (Comes w/ pulley below if bought used)
yw7z8678aa - pulley for above bracket
2r3z6b209bc - Pulley bridge assembly for S.C. (If bought new it comes with the bridge, 2 idlers and tensioner)
(8678B) Idler pulley,timing cover pass. side
yw7z8678aa - pulley on drivers side of timing cover
(10A313) Upper alternator bracket
(10153) Lower alternator bracket
(10346) Alternator
1U2Z-14S411-TA Electrical connector (alt. to harmness )
(6B209A) Tensioner on timing cover
2r3z8260ab - Radiator hose
2r3z8a593ab - Radiator hose
2r3z8k576aa - Radiator hose
2r3z8548aa - Water cross over pipe
(6881) Cobra oil cooler adapter
(6A642) Cobra Oil cooler
2r3z9002aa - Cobra fuel tank (optional)
2r3z9h307ab - Cobra fuel pump (optional)
2r3z9424bb - Lower intake
(6K775) Garrett factory intercooler
2r3z9n491ca - Intercooler hard lines that hug the block (If bought new, it comes w/ part # 9l443c)
3r3z9l443aa - Intercooler line that goes from the i/c adapter to i/c res.
2r3z9l443ba - Intercooler line that goes from the i/c adapter to the hard lines that hug the block
2r3z9l443ca - Intercooler line that goes from the hard line against the block to i/c pump(included w/ the hard line that hugs the block if purchased new)
2r3z9l443da - Intercooler line that goes from hard line to hard line
f8yz8501aa - Ford / Bosche water pump for intercooler
2r3z8n500ac - Intercooler pump
2r3z8a193aa - Heat exchanger mounting bracket
2r3z8c386aa - 2each bracket clamps for h/e
(9N491B) Lower manifold to intercooler water adapter
(9B659) Intake tube from maf to t/b.
2r3z9a825aa - Cruise control cable
2r3z9a758aa - Throttle cable
(6C324) PCV tubing
2r3z6020aa - Timing cover gasket LH side
2r3z6020ba -Timing cover gasket middle
2r3z6020ca - Timing cover gasket RH side
2r3z9h486aa - Lower intake to S.C. gasket
2r3z9l437bb - Plenum to S/C gasket
2r3z3490aa - Power steering resevoir bracket.
i/c pigtail
Inner acc 6 rib belt
n80478s309 - (4) coolant crossover and pulley bridge can be picked up at local auto parts store in help section.
n805164437 - (1) Bolt for pulley cage to timing cover.
n808102s437 - bolt that is used on the idlers and pulleys. Only need if you buy parts seperately. You will need a total of at least 6 of these.
n808920s437 - Pulley bridge bolts
n606677-s36 (4) Bolts to bolt the bracket clamps to the h/e bracket
N605909s437 - (4) bolts for the upper alt. bracket
n807274s437 (1) lower alt. bracket to alt bolt

[SHAKN' 04]

Originally Posted by machgsxr

ATTT: DANIEL

2r3z6312baa - Crank pulley /Harmonic Balancer
f1az6378a - washer for balancer
f5rz6a340b - bolt for balancer
2r3z6312ba - Supercharger Crank drive pulley
2r3z10153ca - Bracket that replaces stk. alt. on 99-01 Cobra’s and 03/04 Mach 1’s (Comes w/ pulley below if bought used)
yw7z8678aa - pulley for above bracket
2r3z6b209bc - Pulley bridge assembly for S.C. (If bought new it comes with the bridge, 2 idlers and tensioner)
(8678B) Idler pulley,timing cover pass. side
yw7z8678aa - pulley on drivers side of timing cover
(6D080) Timing cover (if bought new, it comes w/ pulley on drivers side and tensioner)
s5az6700a - timing cover seal
(10A313) Upper alternator bracket
(10153) Lower alternator bracket
(10346) Alternator
1U2Z-14S411-TA Electrical connector (alt. to harmness )
(6B209A) Tensioner on timing cover
2r3z8260ab - Radiator hose
2r3z8a593ab - Radiator hose
2r3z8k576aa - Radiator hose
2r3z8548aa - Water cross over pipe
(6881) Cobra oil cooler adapter
(6A642) Cobra Oil cooler
2r3z9002aa - Cobra fuel tank (optional)
2r3z9h307ab - Cobra fuel pump (optional)
2r3z9424bb - Lower intake
(6K775) Garrett factory intercooler
3U2Z-14S411-SSA IAT2 sensor connector
2r3z9n491ca - Intercooler hard lines that hug the block (If bought new, it comes w/ part # 9l443c)
3r3z9l443aa - Intercooler line that goes from the i/c adapter to i/c res.
2r3z9l443ba - Intercooler line that goes from the i/c adapter to the hard lines that hug the block
2r3z9l443ca - Intercooler line that goes from the hard line against the block to i/c pump(included w/ the hard line that hugs the block if purchased new)
2r3z9l443da - Intercooler line that goes from hard line to hard line
f8yz8501aa - Ford / Bosche water pump for intercooler
2r3z8n500ac - Intercooler pump
2r3z8a193aa - Heat exchanger mounting bracket
2r3z8c386aa - 2each bracket clamps for h/e
(9N491B) Lower manifold to intercooler water adapter
2r3z9a589ca - Plenum
(9B659) Intake tube from maf to t/b.
(9F715) IAC valve
2r3z9a825aa - Cruise control cable
2r3z9a758aa - Throttle cable
(9728) Throttle and cruise control cable mounting bracket
1l3z12b579aa - MAF
(6C324) PCV tubing
(9F479) Sensor on the back of the S/C
(9E498) Hose's or tube cluster of connectors for the vacuum parts above
e83z9f670a IAC gasket
2r3z6020aa - Timing cover gasket LH side
2r3z6020ba -Timing cover gasket middle
2r3z6020ca - Timing cover gasket RH side
2r3z9h486aa - Lower intake to S.C. gasket
2r3z9l437bb - Plenum to S/C gasket
e6az9d476b - EGR gasket
2r3z3490aa - Power steering resevoir bracket.
I/C resivoir tank
i/c pigtail
S/C 8 rib belt
inner acc. belt.
n804178s309 - (8) Nuts for plenum, coolant crossover and pulley bridge can be picked up at local auto parts store in help section.
n805164437 - (1) Bolt for pulley cage to timing cover.
n808102s437 - bolt that is used on the idlers and pulleys. Only need if you buy parts seperately. You will need a total of at least 6 of these.
n808920s437 - Pulley bridge bolts
n606677-s36 (4) Bolts to bolt the bracket clamps to the h/e bracket
N605909s437 - (4) bolts for the upper alt. bracket
n807274s437 (1) lower alt. bracket to alt bolt
n811313s431 (4) studs to bolt plenum to s/c
w506404s437 (10) i/c to s/c bolts

[/QUOTE]

thank u sir! search is on!

[WNTAMACH1]

thank u sir! search is on![/QUOTE]

Keep it N/A and spray it

[SHAKN' 04]

Originally Posted by WNTAMACH1

thank u sir! search is on!

Keep it N/A and spray it


[/QUOTE]

haha no, its either do the eatonswap or go buy a cobra. i find i cheaper to do it this way and it will be faster then a pullied cobra

[WNTAMACH1]

Ya Ya, Build the engine and throw a 3.4 Whipple on top