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Old 06-24-2004, 02:00 PM   #76
TheWaterSkier
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Quote:
Originally posted by Mach1Canuck
Does it stay at 1800rpm? Or does it fall down then rise back up to 1800?

Not exactly sure, but I think that's close to the starting speed.

The Mach1 starts at the speed. That is the speed that the starter turns the motor at to start the engine. Determined by Ford to be the lowest speed that the engine will remain idling/running under all starting conditions....

Doubt it... typical cranking speed of modern V8 engines is around 150rpms....
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Old 06-24-2004, 03:23 PM   #77
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I made my plate out of stainless making the smaller hole 9/32 and I drilled the largest hole to the largest drill bit I have and then enlarged it even more with my Dremel, but never got it quite as large as the original. I Installed it anyways then cruised it around the block and reset the battery. The RPMs do drop nice and it idles right to about 1000 rpm's instead of idling high during warm up. It also doesn't stall with AC MAX Full Power, so I am guessing it works as supposed to. I am just wondering, the High RPM's at idle-when-cold are like an electronic choke. During winter when it really is cold and needs the extra rpm's, do you think it will stall a lot?

Also, I followed the pictures as for which side was which, but does it matter which hole is large and which is small or could you actually have both holes the same medium size? Just wondering ya know.
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Old 06-24-2004, 05:37 PM   #78
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Quote:
Doubt it... typical cranking speed of modern V8 engines is around 150rpms...
Tried looking around to find that info, mind posting a link?
I work on diesels primarily so thats where my knowledge comes from.

Assuming the 150rpm starter speed is correct. To clarify this for the guys that had the question....Starter brings engine up to 150rpm, *then* the engine ignition takes over and brings the engine up to 1800rpm or thereabouts for the same reason I posted above... That sound about right?

Tribalman, I used the passenger side because it seemed to make no whistling when I put the small hole over there. And you could possibly make both holes the same size, but then you might have issues with getting the *correct* size, and tweaking it. Let us know if you manage to make a better plate, or something that works better than current.
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Old 06-24-2004, 05:54 PM   #79
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Quote:
Originally posted by Mach1Canuck
Tried looking around to find that info, mind posting a link?
I work on diesels primarily so thats where my knowledge comes from.

Assuming the 150rpm starter speed is correct. To clarify this for the guys that had the question....Starter brings engine up to 150rpm, *then* the engine ignition takes over and brings the engine up to 1800rpm or thereabouts for the same reason I posted above... That sound about right?

Tribalman, I used the passenger side because it seemed to make no whistling when I put the small hole over there. And you could possibly make both holes the same size, but then you might have issues with getting the *correct* size, and tweaking it. Let us know if you manage to make a better plate, or something that works better than current.
Yes, that sounds like what happens. There is not much public information that I could find, but I did find this . Scroll down the page to the section "A Modern Starter Motor."

I called a mechanic who works on my car and he said 150 sounds about right, but didn't know the exact speed of crank rotation. The starter motor itself runs much higher (around 3 to 4 thousand rpms), but is geared down to the bendex and then of course the whole thing is geared down due to the size of the flywheel.
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Traded on another vehicle. The Mach was a great car with very few issues in the 93,000 miles I put on it. I'll miss it...

'04 DSG 5 Spd. IUP
Tri-Ax purchased day before Mach, installed day of purchase. MGW Adjustable Shifter Arm.
Borla Stainless Steel "Stinger" Cat-back. Fiore firewall adjuster/Steeda clutch quadrant.
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Old 06-24-2004, 05:59 PM   #80
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I see, good info.. I'd like to know what setup we have on our cars, just for my own knowledge.
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Steeda Tri-Ax
Steeda Sport Springs
UPR Adjustable LCA's
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Maximum Motorsports Full Length SFC's
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JLT CAI
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NGK TR6 Plugs, Gapped @ .050
MAC O/R Prochamber
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Old 06-26-2004, 09:25 PM   #81
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Thanks Mach1Canuck!!!!! :THUMBSUP: I made one out of .028" copper shim stock. (figured it would seal better without 2 gaskets.) Went with the 9/32" dia. hole, and it worked great! Much better than before. Still not quite like a carbureted car, but MUCH better. For an old school gearhead like me, now the car seems normal to drive instead of like the gas pedal wasn't connected to the engine! If your ever in this neck of the woods....I owe ya a beer!
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Old 09-11-2004, 03:21 PM   #82
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I'm jumping on the bandwagon : )
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Old 09-11-2004, 03:33 PM   #83
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im not the smartest guy on the block, but i took the gasket out. and traced it out on some kodak photopaper took the appropriate drill bit cut the template out made the holes with the drill bits, and used the original as a backup, and reinstalled. took me no more than 20 mins and less than a dollar. works like a champ. ive pulled it out a few time to see how its holding up and it looks good so far after about 2 months. i figure the worst is i have to make a new one. IMHO
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Old 09-20-2004, 03:05 AM   #84
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Hi Mach1Canuck and others

Yesterday finally got to get my K&N drop in air filter in and the Donathan made Mach1Canuck Special IAC restrictor plate with 11/32 hole. Took about 5 minutes to do both mods. We were at our annual club mustang show. I had a 45 minute drive home after this. Well gotta say the car sounded gruntier and seemed to have a bit more pick up and go from a seat of the pants feel.

I noticed that when I got home when free reving when deaccelerating there is a burble and crackle, almost a back fire coming from the exhaust, which wasn't there before. Has anyone else noticed this and is it normal after these mods?

I also noticed a vey slight hesitation on accelerating while driving, before it took off like a rocket.

Should I be worried about any of these differences?

Any feed back will be appreciated.
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Old 09-20-2004, 03:28 AM   #85
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Mod worked great! No stalling on first outing. Hopefully fixed for good. Thanks 'canuk!!:THUMBSUP:
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Old 09-20-2004, 12:25 PM   #86
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Thanks guys!

muzman: Still having a slight hesitation?

What are all your performance mods you've done so far?
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Torch Red, 5-Speed
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Steeda Tri-Ax
Steeda Sport Springs
UPR Adjustable LCA's
Offset Urethane Rack Bushings
Maximum Motorsports Full Length SFC's
Ford Racing 4.10 Ring/Pinion
JLT CAI
Ported/Polished TB/Upper Intake
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NGK TR6 Plugs, Gapped @ .050
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Old 09-20-2004, 08:09 PM   #87
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Quote:
Originally posted by Mach1Canuck
Thanks guys!

muzman: Still having a slight hesitation?

What are all your performance mods you've done so far?
Hi Mach1 Canuck, actually took the car for a run around the block last night after I posted here and I didn't notice the slight hesitation, even the harsh crackling had gone although it still had a burble when deaccelerating from free reving which sounded quite nice. Don't know why the change from yesterday. The revs do drop quicker, still just hanging slighltly but I am happy with the result. A definite improvement, sounds like a proper manual gear change now without riding the accelerator. There were no stalling problems like some others have experienced either- a great invention!

I have no other performance mods apart fro the K&N air filter, however I have ordered a MRT H pipe and magnaflow high flow catback system which should arrive early October- can't wait! Thanks Mach1Canuck! (and if you ever get to New Zealand let me know, I will show you around Auckland and a few other great Kiwi places).

mate.
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MRT Chrome exhaust extensions,Mach 1 Floor Matts, bought new 2003 first registered for road use in 2010.
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Old 09-20-2004, 10:50 PM   #88
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Is Donathin officially making these plates now? If not would someone make one for me?> I'd definately pay for this. I too have the "hanging RPM" issue and I hate it!!

-Thanks
-Dan
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Old 09-20-2004, 11:41 PM   #89
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A guy from stangnet is selling them on ebay for $15 shipped. I think he is a Mach 1 owner as well. Do a search in parts and accessories you'll find it.
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Old 09-21-2004, 10:58 AM   #90
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Quote:
Originally posted by SS2001
A guy from stangnet is selling them on ebay for $15 shipped. I think he is a Mach 1 owner as well. Do a search in parts and accessories you'll find it.
Here's the link:
http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=470711

I bought one from him before Donathan started production on his. It's worked great, and he was a good man to buy from. Be aware that you may have to enlarge the smaller hole depending on how your car performs after the install. I enlarged mine from 9/32" (as it was made) to 11/32" to get the idle to perform just right.
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Old 09-21-2004, 11:09 PM   #91
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Donothan mentioned making one that was a certain size for mach 1's with CAI. I'm planning on putting mine in around the same time I install my JLT CAI. For that reason I'd rather go with his. If he's still around with them. Donothan????


-Dan
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Cosmetic mods=too much to list
Functional=redline tranny fluid, royal purple full synthetic motor oil, SLP loudmouth catback, SLP catted x-pipe, steeda tri-axle shifter, aftermarket guages w/shiftlight, php intake spacer, jlt cai, moser 31 spline axes, ford 31 spline track lock, motive 4.10 gears, eibach pro springs, SCT custom tune by Jon Lund........

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Old 09-22-2004, 10:01 PM   #92
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Quote:
Originally posted by muzman
Hi Mach1 Canuck, actually took the car for a run around the block last night after I posted here and I didn't notice the slight hesitation, even the harsh crackling had gone although it still had a burble when deaccelerating from free reving which sounded quite nice. Don't know why the change from yesterday. The revs do drop quicker, still just hanging slighltly but I am happy with the result. A definite improvement, sounds like a proper manual gear change now without riding the accelerator. There were no stalling problems like some others have experienced either- a great invention!

I have no other performance mods apart fro the K&N air filter, however I have ordered a MRT H pipe and magnaflow high flow catback system which should arrive early October- can't wait! Thanks Mach1Canuck! (and if you ever get to New Zealand let me know, I will show you around Auckland and a few other great Kiwi places).

mate.
Right on...Awesome to hear everything has been working good for everyone...and no one's popped an engine or something, lol..

lol, and about going to NZ, I'm in the Navy here in Canada so you never know.. I might have to get that beer!





About the custom sizes.. I *believe* he said 11/32 was the size hole that worked best for him. Not completely sure though! I'm sure he'll chime in here..
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Torch Red, 5-Speed
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Steeda Tri-Ax
Steeda Sport Springs
UPR Adjustable LCA's
Offset Urethane Rack Bushings
Maximum Motorsports Full Length SFC's
Ford Racing 4.10 Ring/Pinion
JLT CAI
Ported/Polished TB/Upper Intake
PHP Intake Spacer
NGK TR6 Plugs, Gapped @ .050
MAC O/R Prochamber
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Old 09-22-2004, 10:51 PM   #93
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lol, and about going to NZ, I'm in the Navy here in Canada so you never know.. I might have to get that beer![/B]

Anytime Mach1Canuck, always a cold K1W1 steinlager in the fridge for a fellow Macher :THUMBSUP:
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MRT Chrome exhaust extensions,Mach 1 Floor Matts, bought new 2003 first registered for road use in 2010.
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Old 09-24-2004, 10:29 PM   #94
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I just finished making and installing the plate. Used 9/32 opening. Engine idles fine,even with a/c on. Rpm drops faster and feels great. The one thing i have noticed is there is less exhaust "burble" than without the mod. My car had a very pronounced "burble" and with the plate there is none. Any thoughts on this. It seems to be opposite to what others have observed. My Mach is a 5 speed and no other mods.
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Old 01-11-2005, 09:37 AM   #95
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Re: Hanging/Slow dropping RPM FIX inside.

Well, it's been a few months now since this thread started, so time for an update? Has anyone experienced problems as a result of this? Has anyone ran a/f ratio readings since the install? I've noticed that my car only does it sometimes, usually when the temperature outside is in the mid 40's. Sounds crazy, but I've only had this problem for a couple of weeks in the spring, and then a couple of weeks in the fall. Now we're having mild weather in Atlanta, and it's back again this week.

Getting fed up, plus it's embarrassing pulling up to a stop light with an exhaust that already gets attention and my engine's at a steady 1,200 RPM idle in neutral, not too mention I practically have to ride the brake to avoid rear-ending the car in front of me!

Just a little frustrated, so any new input would be appreciated, otherwise, I'll probably do the mod this weekend.
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Old 01-11-2005, 10:15 AM   #96
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Re: Hanging/Slow dropping RPM FIX inside.

Speak of the devil mine started doing that recently. It will hang at 1200 rpm or so for about 3-4 seconds. And I have a restrictor plate installed with the smaller hole enlarged to 11/32".
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Old 01-11-2005, 01:36 PM   #97
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Re: Hanging/Slow dropping RPM FIX inside.

I had that problem prior to the restrictor plate being installed. It was fixed with a pcm reflash by the dealership that brought my pcm up to version 30.11 from 26.xx. That corrected the high idle but created a slight (1/2 sec) bog on the 1 to 2 shift. It won't bog during "normal" driving or while at WOT but it will do it when I get on it on the streets.

The restrictor plate helped with the rpm's dropping quicker than normally. I'm hesitant to take my car back in for a new reflash in the event the latest update detunes the car like what Acura did with the CL-S to fix the tranny problem. I haven't heard of Ford doing this but I thought its best not to mess with it now and I'll get it fixed with a custom tune from HPP.

Did you let your car "re-learn" or adjust the settings after the plate? After the plate, I installed a K&N CAI and let the computer re-learn the settings and I haven't had that problem. If you didn't it might be worth a shot. If your not sure how to do it, disconnect your negative battery connection for 30 minutes and then reconnect. It takes about 12 starts / 1 week before the system is finished adapting to your driving style.

Good luck.
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Old 01-11-2005, 01:56 PM   #98
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Re: Hanging/Slow dropping RPM FIX inside.

No problems at all with mine. Haven't checked A/F readings but I don't see the need. The mod is only in play when the throttle is closed, so it cannot affect A/F readings at any other engine speed.
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Old 01-11-2005, 02:41 PM   #99
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Re: Hanging/Slow dropping RPM FIX inside.

Quote:
Originally Posted by GRB60
No problems at all with mine. Haven't checked A/F readings but I don't see the need. The mod is only in play when the throttle is closed, so it cannot affect A/F readings at any other engine speed.

Yeah, I understand, but the reason I asked specifically about a/f ratios is because someone posted that they noticed a strong gas smell coming from their exhaust after installing the plate, but if you say things are great, then that's encouraging because exactly what I want to hear. Thanks!

Anyone else?
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Old 01-11-2005, 03:21 PM   #100
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Re: Hanging/Slow dropping RPM FIX inside.

Quote:
Originally Posted by machths
Yeah, I understand, but the reason I asked specifically about a/f ratios is because someone posted that they noticed a strong gas smell coming from their exhaust after installing the plate, but if you say things are great, then that's encouraging because exactly what I want to hear. Thanks!

Anyone else?
I also had my A/F checked after the plate and the K&N CAI. I was running at 13 prior and now at 12.7 across the RPM range so no problems with mine.

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Tuned Dyno: HP & TQ

2005 Mach 1 / Bullitt Shootout Super Street Bracket Winner

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