kooks and steering shaft once again...

[DSG2003Mach1]

another victim of Kooks headers I guess...

anyone have any tips on how they did it, like where to pry or what they used to clearance brand new expensive *** headers?

Trying to feed it up from the front but its just a tight damned fit. Its hard to find a way to use a pry bar near where the steering shaft runs through. From what Ive read it looks like the flaming river is only .25" narrower which seems like it still isnt enough...big gamble for over $300

Ive also seen where people cut the crimps on the extendable section to take it all apart and re-assemble this way but its doesnt sound like the safest thing in the world.

any input is appreciated

[machgsxr]

Ive done it where i took the shaft off from under the dash then slid it back in after I put the headers in place. Not sure if i pulled it out completly or just enough to put the headers in.

I don't remember having nearly as much trouble with the headers as you did. On your other thread, my headers are all 1 piece not the same as each tube coming off seperately like you mentioned yours do.

[DSG2003Mach1]

Mine are the new style where only the first primary is removable

[DSG2003Mach1]

no tips or hints on how you guys are managing to clearance these headers once installed in the car? Not really room to swing a hammer and such

[Nekasrof]

We put the steering shaft between the headers before we put the motor and all in the car. It was easier. We VERY CAREFULLY used 2 pry bars and slid the steering shaft between the header tubes. Done. No damage.

Obviously, the motor was in the k-member and THAT assembly was on the ground. We just lowered the car onto the k-member and someone has to guide the shaft into the firewall.

[Linumup]

Try it with the 1.78" header ! Metal is stupid , it does what you tell it to do .
HINT Mark it , heat torch until its glowing red , and softly tap with a ball peen hammer

[DSG2003Mach1]

Originally Posted by Nekasrof

We put the steering shaft between the headers before we put the motor and all in the car. It was easier. We VERY CAREFULLY used 2 pry bars and slid the steering shaft between the header tubes. Done. No damage.

Obviously, the motor was in the k-member and THAT assembly was on the ground. We just lowered the car onto the k-member and someone has to guide the shaft into the firewall.

I didnt realize the shaft went in this way, I knew the gaskets and stuff these headers come with were junk so I grabbed the O2 extenders outta the box and threw it in the garbage, otherwise I would have done what you did.

Linumup - that was about all I could think of but thought there might be some way I didnt know about

[Nekasrof]

Originally Posted by Linumup

Try it with the 1.78" header ! Metal is stupid , it does what you tell it to do .
HINT Mark it , heat torch until its glowing red , and softly tap with a ball peen hammer

I have 'em. It's like F'n roll cage tubing, I swear!

[littlemags]

I had to do what linemup did....heat and hit with a hammer. sucked but needed the clearance. I ended with a FR shaft but still need to give them a "poke" for clearance

[ShakeMe]

Glad I went with SLP. Almost 7 years and counting without problems.

[DSG2003Mach1]

Originally Posted by ShakeMe

Glad I went with SLP. Almost 7 years and counting without problems.

The slp had serious fitment issues with the t56 scatter shield

[Nekasrof]

I also had to cut the bellhousing to clearance the header on the driver's side. This is for a Quicktime bellhousing.

[littlemags]

Originally Posted by Nekasrof

I also had to cut the bellhousing to clearance the header on the driver's side. This is for a Quicktime bellhousing.

yep...i had to cut A LOT!!!!!!!!!

[Mach828]

pull the steering shaft out from the top like mentioned above. Then slide it through, and guide it in when you put the whole thing in as one.

[DSG2003Mach1]

Originally Posted by Mach828

pull the steering shaft out from the top like mentioned above. Then slide it through, and guide it in when you put the whole thing in as one.

as mentioned in the first post I am trying to put it in from the front, it does not fit because these headers are pieces of ****.

...to top it off I went to plug the O2 sensors into the harness extensions provided by Kooks and they dont ****ing fit. Ive checked 5 different places and I have the correct upstream O2 sensors leaving that kooks sent the wrong harness. Im so beyond over this

[Stopsign32v]

Wow this sucks to hear since I was going to go with Kooks. I wonder how ARH is in regards to scatter shield clearance.

[DSG2003Mach1]

dont know about ARH but the kooks will require grinding out a space equivalent to about 1/3 of a primary

[Stopsign32v]

Originally Posted by DSG2003Mach1

dont know about ARH but the kooks will require grinding out a space equivalent to about 1/3 of a primary

With which header? Do you have any pics? I'd like to know what I'm getting myself into.

Also my QT bellhousing will be for a T5/TKO setup not a T56. Wonder what the difference is.

[DSG2003Mach1]

the TKO bit I couldnt tell ya. With the Kooks 1 5/8ths into 2.5" collector is what I have

I think its the primary for #7. A big carbide bit and air grinder are your best friend

Ill try to remember to take a few when Im under the car tonight, all I have right now are the the before cutting it up photos

[Stopsign32v]

Originally Posted by DSG2003Mach1

the TKO bit I couldnt tell ya. With the Kooks 1 5/8ths into 2.5" collector is what I have

I think its the primary for #7. A big carbide bit and air grinder are your best friend

Ill try to remember to take a few when Im under the car tonight, all I have right now are the the before cutting it up photos

Oh crap...and I'm thinking about 1 7/8 primaries!

[DSG2003Mach1]

I only have the backing plate on for the scattershield right now as I dunno how to deal with the whole indexing to centerline thing but you get the idea



and these are the awesome harness extensions I was sent...

[Stopsign32v]

I see where you had to grind some. Doesn't look too bad though!

I'm close to Kooks and I asked them how much to install the longtubes. They STARTED my quote at 7-8 hours!!! Then said it depends on what else they run into. Geez...

[machgsxr]

I had those extension problems with other headers as well. Just cut the nipples sticking out of your stock o2 sensor and they will plug right in.

[DSG2003Mach1]

Originally Posted by Stopsign32v

I see where you had to grind some. Doesn't look too bad though!

I'm close to Kooks and I asked them how much to install the longtubes. They STARTED my quote at 7-8 hours!!! Then said it depends on what else they run into. Geez...

it looks worse on the actual scatter shield but again having a carbide bit makes it quick work. Just remember that the SFI rating is void. I doubt it would be an issue but its a possibility

Originally Posted by machgsxr

I had those extension problems with other headers as well. Just cut the nipples sticking out of your stock o2 sensor and they will plug right in.

thats what they told me to do...which on one hand is fine but I expect more from an exhaust system with a $1500 price tag (headers and catted midpipe). Im just all around disappointed/aggravated with Kooks. To me it just shows how little they give a ****. I would expect **** like this with a $500-$600 set of Macs

[DSG2003Mach1]

ok, I'll give Drew in the CS/Tech department credit, hes trying.

They had me on a 3 way call with Jim from JDM, he says this isnt uncommon as jigs get older or damaged things dont have the same tolerances (HINT HINT KOOKS)
Jim says to take the stock steering shaft, grind off the pinch points on the lower part of the shaft (where it collapses and expands), remove the orange vibration dampner bc the headers will destroy it anyway and feed it through in halves. He says theyve done hundreds of cobras this way and its perfectly safe.

Thanks to Jim @ JDM for taking time on the phone (I did not buy them from him) to try and help. Ill report back tonight if this resolves the situation or not.

Im still not happy with Kooks product but Ill be happy to be able to move on with my build and not have to dent primaries or buy a $300+ steering shaft