Waking Up Question - 2003-04 Mach 1 Registry Owners Club

JCal · 04-26-2017, 04:03 PM

Hello,
Cars been sitting all winter with the battery disconnected. Now I know when I start it it's going to want to jump up to 2K and then settle down to an idle.
I don't want that to happen on a fairly "dry" motor. I usually crank it until I see oil pressure with the rear impact switch disconnected first. Just hate it how the rpms flash up at the beginning.
Can I disconnect the IAC or something similar to prevent this?
Thanks,Jim

DSG2003Mach1 · 04-26-2017, 05:10 PM

its pretty much gonna happen at this point. Based on several things Ive seen Im not convinced spinning it over like that gets oil to the top as needed. Also you can just put the gas pedal to the floor and it shuts off the injectors while cranking.

JCal · 04-26-2017, 05:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DSG2003Mach1

its pretty much gonna happen at this point. Based on several things Ive seen Im not convinced spinning it over like that gets oil to the top as needed. Also you can just put the gas pedal to the floor and it shuts off the injectors while cranking.

Thanks man, but I mean when I'm ready to have it fire, it just revs up more than I would do if I was working the pedal if that makes sense? It always shoots past 2 grand and then settles down to its idle speed. Just would rather have it sputter to life while oil gets circulating rather than rev. That's why I was wondering if there was something I could do with the IAC on a first start situation like this (cars been sitting for 4-5 months)
Thanks, Jim

DSG2003Mach1 · 04-26-2017, 06:23 PM

The battery being unhooked is the biggest part of that problem. All the learned tables are gone and it has to start over. I just ran this by Todd warren who's a mod motor expert and he says to just start the car.

You're not putting enough oil volume or pressure into the heads turning it over with the key so now your spinning em still pretty much dry at low speed then firing the car up and spinning them still basically dry.

The pump is on the crank, the faster it spins the fast the pump spins and moves the oil along

01yellerCobra · 04-26-2017, 08:40 PM

I remember reading that Ford has the RPM kick up like that in order to get the oil to the heads faster. Whether it's true or not I don't know.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

DSG2003Mach1 · 04-26-2017, 08:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 01yellerCobra

I remember reading that Ford has the RPM kick up like that in order to get the oil to the heads faster. Whether it's true or not I don't know.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

typically the rev and temporary high idle are to fire off the cats for emissions compliance purposes. It may help with that too but Ive never seen it stated

JCal · 04-26-2017, 08:57 PM

[QUOTE=DSG2003Mach1;1625922]The battery being unhooked is the biggest part of that problem. All the learned tables are gone and it has to start over. I just ran this by Todd warren who's a mod motor expert and he says to just start the car.

You're not putting enough oil volume or pressure into the heads turning it over with the key so now your spinning em still pretty much dry at low speed then firing the car up and spinning them still basically dry.

The pump is on the crank, the faster it spins the fast the pump spins and moves the oil along[/QUOTE
Thanks, yeah had the batter disconnected because I was working on it over the winter. Just hate how it'll rev like that on first fire up. Jim

01yellerCobra · 04-27-2017, 01:28 PM

If you're really concerned you could make an oil primer out of a garden spray can. Then you can prelube the engine before cranking it.

DSG2003Mach1 · 04-27-2017, 02:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 01yellerCobra

If you're really concerned you could make an oil primer out of a garden spray can. Then you can prelube the engine before cranking it.

which you can make for around $20 @ lowes. Engine builder approved (youd need to drain oil from the crank case to make room for whats pumped in by the sprayer)

ab_mach1 · 04-27-2017, 04:35 PM

Too bad they don't make an oil meant to go in a car that will hibernate for several months. It would be cool if that oil could somehow leave a protective coating behind for that initial startup. Then you would just change the oil once you got her running okay. Mine sits over the winter, but I've been starting it every few weeks for this same reason.

DSG2003Mach1 · 04-27-2017, 05:03 PM

I feel like every few weeks is worse. We've got a 95 town car that's a 4.6 sohc. It sits at the summer house all but June-July and November. We fire it up and go when we get there, car still runs like a champ.

Starting the car during storage also builds up a lot of moisture unless it's idling for a long time, also not a great thing

04-26-2017, 04:03 PM	#1
JCal Registered User Join Date: Mar 2005 Posts: 175	Waking Up Question Hello, Cars been sitting all winter with the battery disconnected. Now I know when I start it it's going to want to jump up to 2K and then settle down to an idle. I don't want that to happen on a fairly "dry" motor. I usually crank it until I see oil pressure with the rear impact switch disconnected first. Just hate it how the rpms flash up at the beginning. Can I disconnect the IAC or something similar to prevent this? Thanks,Jim

04-26-2017, 05:10 PM	#2
DSG2003Mach1 700 HP Mach Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Orlando, FL Posts: 8,384	Re: Waking Up Question its pretty much gonna happen at this point. Based on several things Ive seen Im not convinced spinning it over like that gets oil to the top as needed. Also you can just put the gas pedal to the floor and it shuts off the injectors while cranking. __________________ 03 dsg mach1 - MPR built 9.5:1 motor, D1, cams, ported intake, full exhaust, magnum t56, built rear, E85 etc... '12 F150 FX2 Supercrew with Ecoboost daily beater

04-26-2017, 06:23 PM	#4
DSG2003Mach1 700 HP Mach Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Orlando, FL Posts: 8,384	Re: Waking Up Question The battery being unhooked is the biggest part of that problem. All the learned tables are gone and it has to start over. I just ran this by Todd warren who's a mod motor expert and he says to just start the car. You're not putting enough oil volume or pressure into the heads turning it over with the key so now your spinning em still pretty much dry at low speed then firing the car up and spinning them still basically dry. The pump is on the crank, the faster it spins the fast the pump spins and moves the oil along __________________ 03 dsg mach1 - MPR built 9.5:1 motor, D1, cams, ported intake, full exhaust, magnum t56, built rear, E85 etc... '12 F150 FX2 Supercrew with Ecoboost daily beater

04-26-2017, 08:40 PM	#5
01yellerCobra Registered User Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: San Diego, CA Posts: 1,104	I remember reading that Ford has the RPM kick up like that in order to get the oil to the heads faster. Whether it's true or not I don't know. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk __________________ New Ride: 2004 Mystichrome Cobra-Accufab SBTB and plenum, Steeda 2.8" upper, Bassani X, Borla Stingers, Mcleod RXT, MGW shifter, Level 5 halfshafts, chrome FR500's, Stiffler's FIT system and DS safety loop, GT pumps, BA3000, tuned by owner

04-26-2017, 08:57 PM	#7
JCal Registered User Join Date: Mar 2005 Posts: 175	Re: Waking Up Question [QUOTE=DSG2003Mach1;1625922]The battery being unhooked is the biggest part of that problem. All the learned tables are gone and it has to start over. I just ran this by Todd warren who's a mod motor expert and he says to just start the car. You're not putting enough oil volume or pressure into the heads turning it over with the key so now your spinning em still pretty much dry at low speed then firing the car up and spinning them still basically dry. The pump is on the crank, the faster it spins the fast the pump spins and moves the oil along[/QUOTE Thanks, yeah had the batter disconnected because I was working on it over the winter. Just hate how it'll rev like that on first fire up. Jim

04-27-2017, 01:28 PM	#8
01yellerCobra Registered User Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: San Diego, CA Posts: 1,104	Re: Waking Up Question If you're really concerned you could make an oil primer out of a garden spray can. Then you can prelube the engine before cranking it. __________________ New Ride: 2004 Mystichrome Cobra-Accufab SBTB and plenum, Steeda 2.8" upper, Bassani X, Borla Stingers, Mcleod RXT, MGW shifter, Level 5 halfshafts, chrome FR500's, Stiffler's FIT system and DS safety loop, GT pumps, BA3000, tuned by owner

04-27-2017, 04:35 PM	#10
ab_mach1 Lorraine's driver Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Indianapolis, IN Posts: 2,442	Re: Waking Up Question Too bad they don't make an oil meant to go in a car that will hibernate for several months. It would be cool if that oil could somehow leave a protective coating behind for that initial startup. Then you would just change the oil once you got her running okay. Mine sits over the winter, but I've been starting it every few weeks for this same reason. __________________ Instagram: @azurblumach1 SCT X3 with LaSota Racing tune Borla Stingers w/JBA off road H pipe MGW short shifter w/comfort handle Eibach Sportlines w/Koni STR.T's and Maximum Motorsports CC plates

04-27-2017, 05:03 PM	#11
DSG2003Mach1 700 HP Mach Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Orlando, FL Posts: 8,384	Re: Waking Up Question I feel like every few weeks is worse. We've got a 95 town car that's a 4.6 sohc. It sits at the summer house all but June-July and November. We fire it up and go when we get there, car still runs like a champ. Starting the car during storage also builds up a lot of moisture unless it's idling for a long time, also not a great thing __________________ 03 dsg mach1 - MPR built 9.5:1 motor, D1, cams, ported intake, full exhaust, magnum t56, built rear, E85 etc... '12 F150 FX2 Supercrew with Ecoboost daily beater

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