best place to buy OEM clutch cable and quadrant

[ASH302]

Wondering where the best prices are for OEM clutch cable and steeda quadrant

ASh

[falcongtho3]

Got my cable and new quadrant from Ford. Changed to a Ford Performance quad and a stock cable.

[ASH302]

Originally Posted by falcongtho3

Got my cable and new quadrant from Ford. Changed to a Ford Performance quad and a stock cable.

did you do the FWA also?

ASh

[falcongtho3]

Didn't, but should have in retrospect.

[ASH302]

Originally Posted by falcongtho3

Didn't, but should have in retrospect.

yea I figure i'm going to need to do all three, but for sure the quadrant and new OEM cable

ASh

[falcongtho3]

Get the adjuster. I've had to get under the car to gt the clutch engagement where I want, and it's still not exactly where I want it, but it's close.

[ASH302]

Originally Posted by falcongtho3

Get the adjuster. I've had to get under the car to gt the clutch engagement where I want, and it's still not exactly where I want it, but it's close.

I was almost thinking just the quadrant and the fwa would do enough for now till doing a cable later.
I remember doing all three at the same time and so i'm guessing it needs to happen again on this Mach.

ASh

[Rawyzf]

What are the signs of the clutch cable starting to wear down? Or do they go, and just snap when done?

Reason I ask, I swear my shift point/engagement point changed overnight last week. Took me a few days to relearn the new points.

[ASH302]

Originally Posted by Rawyzf

What are the signs of the clutch cable starting to wear down? Or do they go, and just snap when done?

Reason I ask, I swear my shift point/engagement point changed overnight last week. Took me a few days to relearn the new points.

From my own personal experience, i've notice it when shifting through the gears at high rpms, that it will struggle to go into the next gear, instead of like normal where it should go right into gear. Almost like it blocks it out of going into the next gear.
What is happening is the clutch isn't getting pushed in enough to make a smooth shift at high rpm's, but at low rpms its fine.
I've heard of them snapping, but never have had one myself.
Either the cable has stretch out/gotten alittle longer or the plastic quadrant is getting worn out.

ASh

[falcongtho3]

Mine did snap, but it was put under a lot of pressure when the (aftermarket) clutch failed and caused a cascade effect that only now is getting straightened out. The plastic teeth and the factory piece seems to give over time as well.

[ASH302]

Originally Posted by falcongtho3

Mine did snap, but it was put under a lot of pressure when the (aftermarket) clutch failed and caused a cascade effect that only now is getting straightened out. The plastic teeth and the factory piece seems to give over time as well.

Mine has almost 81K miles on the stock cable and quadrant and if I remember right, I replaced it when I had over 60K miles my 04 SY mach when I replaced all three.

ASh

[311-420]

I've snapped one before. The pedal throw starts feeling gritty as you push it down. I assume that's caused by the cable fraying inside the sheath. That was on my foxbody. I started to feel the same thing on my Mach 1 at 60k miles so I preemptively changed it. Got lucky when the one snapped. Happened pulling into my driveway. Tell me that wasn't providential.

[Rusty67]

I've bought the clutch cable from Ford, from Maximum as part of a kit and from Rock Auto. Prices vary WIDELY at the dealer. For some reason some dealers really want to screw customers. One of the dealers locally actually is very competitive on price. Between the 3, the price was really close.

I've got the UPR triple hook quadrant and the double lock firewall adjuster. Overall I like the Maximum quadrant better but I think the UPR adjust is the best one on the market.

[Rawyzf]

Originally Posted by ASH302

From my own personal experience, i've notice it when shifting through the gears at high rpms, that it will struggle to go into the next gear, instead of like normal where it should go right into gear. Almost like it blocks it out of going into the next gear.
What is happening is the clutch isn't getting pushed in enough to make a smooth shift at high rpm's, but at low rpms its fine.
I've heard of them snapping, but never have had one myself.
Either the cable has stretch out/gotten alittle longer or the plastic quadrant is getting worn out.

ASh

Originally Posted by 311-420

I've snapped one before. The pedal throw starts feeling gritty as you push it down. I assume that's caused by the cable fraying inside the sheath. That was on my foxbody. I started to feel the same thing on my Mach 1 at 60k miles so I preemptively changed it. Got lucky when the one snapped. Happened pulling into my driveway. Tell me that wasn't providential.

Good info, thanks guys!

[ASH302]

Originally Posted by Rawyzf

Good info, thanks guys!

That is what we are here for, ask any question.
I'm guessing everything under the sun about the Mach 1 has been talked about, but ask away and if there is a link to a thread to help you, then it shall be done.

ASh

[ASH302]

Just passing on the information, because I would have never thought of it and glad that I checked. I like searching for parts on facebook or craigslist and found a guy selling brand new cable and thought I look up the part number, well come to find out, the OEM 3.8L clutch cable is different than the 4.6L clutch cable. would have never thought about it.
I know when i'm buying from another person, I always check the part number to make sure they have the listing right.
If I remember right, the v6 mustang and GT mustang use the same trans, so why would the cable be any different? When the cable on the GT is the same on the mach. It doesn't make any since but okay i'll go with what Ford says, just doesn't make much sense is all.

ASh

[Rusty67]

The 3.8L v6 motor is a physically smaller motor. The cable routing is different because of that, hence the different part.

[ASH302]

Originally Posted by Rusty67

The 3.8L v6 motor is a physically smaller motor. The cable routing is different because of that, hence the different part.

hmmm. i'm not looking at any diagram, but I would think, because of where the trans is located at and the way I remember it being routed up to the firewall, then it wouldn't make a different where the engine is, because of the trans being in the same location. Next, I would have to check, even though the size is different on the engines, 3.8, 4.6 2v, & 4.6 4v. Do they not all mount to the same location? Again I haven't looked into this more, but just thinking from what I know. it would seem to me that they would still be the same length of cable.

ASh

[Rusty67]

The trans is in the same location and the motors do bolt into the same place on the K member. The 4.6L v8 is quite a bit wider and quite a bit longer front to back when compared to the 3.8L v6. You need the extra length to get around the front of the motor. Also, I don't know what the 3.8L cable routing looks like but it might also be a shorter distance overall due to how wide the modular 4.6L is compared to that small V6.

[ASH302]

Originally Posted by Rusty67

The trans is in the same location and the motors do bolt into the same place on the K member. The 4.6L v8 is quite a bit wider and quite a bit longer front to back when compared to the 3.8L v6. You need the extra length to get around the front of the motor. Also, I don't know what the 3.8L cable routing looks like but it might also be a shorter distance overall due to how wide the modular 4.6L is compared to that small V6.

Honestly, i'm not going to worry about it, lol. I was just shocked and learned something new today and thought I pass it on.
It just got my mind ago and thinking, just never thought about it.

ASh