P2197 Code ?? - 2003-04 Mach 1 Registry Owners Club

zaid · 06-29-2013, 01:02 PM

Hi guys, two questions, when I first start the car runs great but then after a little bit check engine like comes on and code P2197 O2 Sensor signal Biased/Stuck lean bank 2 sensor 1
which O2 sensor is that ? car starts to run a little rough when the check engine light comes on.

second question is: whats the final bolt torque specs for the cylinder head ? I need to recheck the bolts final torque on them. I had a new gasket put in, polts, head was checked but there is a small leak between the block and cylinder head.

car is bone stock and the engine was completely rebuilt

311-420 · 06-29-2013, 01:12 PM

If you think its sucking air past the head gasket, that's likely where your lean code is coming from. Extra unmetered air = lean.

slojunk91 · 06-29-2013, 04:23 PM

^^^exactly, or vacuum leak elsewhere.

zaid · 06-29-2013, 05:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 311-420

If you think its sucking air past the head gasket, that's likely where your lean code is coming from. Extra unmetered air = lean.

Compression is good, there is a coolant leak not a vacuum leak from the head, leaking to the outside. is It was leaking to inside the cylinder I would have low compression and a miss fire.

what kind of reading I should I look when I scan it ? and any idea whats the final torque spec for the cylinder head bolt ? I wanna check if they are all the same exact number.

Nekasrof · 06-29-2013, 06:59 PM

If you're using the TTY bolts:

4. Tighten the bolts in six stages in the sequence
shown.
• Stage 1: Tighten the bolts to 40 Nm (30
lb-ft).
• Stage 2: Tighten the bolts an additional 90
degrees.
• Stage 3: Loosen the bolts a minimum of one
full turn.
• Stage 4: Tighten to 40 Nm (30 lb-ft).
• Stage 5: Tighten an additional 90 degrees.
• Stage 6: Tighten an additional 90 degrees.

Bmeagher · 06-29-2013, 07:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nekasrof

If you're using the TTY bolts:

4. Tighten the bolts in six stages in the sequence
shown.
• Stage 1: Tighten the bolts to 40 Nm (30
lb-ft).
• Stage 2: Tighten the bolts an additional 90
degrees.
• Stage 3: Loosen the bolts a minimum of one
full turn.
• Stage 4: Tighten to 40 Nm (30 lb-ft).
• Stage 5: Tighten an additional 90 degrees.
• Stage 6: Tighten an additional 90 degrees.

You'll have to pull the spark plugs and drain the coolant to do that. Why didn't you do arp studs?
And to do that torque sequence in the vehicle would be stupid

Matt H · 06-29-2013, 08:50 PM

You want to check the torque but the last steps are not a spec. They are 90*. You can't loosen them cause they are TTY. Doing another 90* you risk breaking the bolts or stripping the threads out.

B2S1 O2 sensor is the upstream driver side (I think).

Nekasrof · 06-29-2013, 11:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Matt H

You want to check the torque but the last steps are not a spec. They are 90*. You can't loosen them cause they are TTY. Doing another 90* you risk breaking the bolts or stripping the threads out.

B2S1 O2 sensor is the upstream driver side (I think).

The instruction I posted was off the Ford disc. That's their set of instructions.

For my build, I used ARP head studs cause I knew the motor would come out again.

Matt H · 06-30-2013, 09:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nekasrof

The instruction I posted was off the Ford disc. That's their set of instructions.

For my build, I used ARP head studs cause I knew the motor would come out again.

Right. What I'm saying, in theory is because of the TTY bolts and the fact there is no final torque #, OP would need to replaced the bolt. It's already stretched.

Nekasrof · 06-30-2013, 10:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Matt H

Right. What I'm saying, in theory is because of the TTY bolts and the fact there is no final torque #, OP would need to replaced the bolt. It's already stretched.

My bad. I was assuming new bolts were purchased. I'll need to state new bolts next time.

zaid · 06-30-2013, 10:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Matt H

Right. What I'm saying, in theory is because of the TTY bolts and the fact there is no final torque #, OP would need to replaced the bolt. It's already stretched.

Do you think If I buy new bolts and install them again might stop the leak ?

Nekasrof · 06-30-2013, 12:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by zaid

Do you think If I buy new bolts and install them again might stop the leak ?

If it was me, that motor would be coming out. There are too many variables here.

Matt H · 06-30-2013, 01:05 PM

^ agreed. Also wondering why OP is attempting to fix an issue on a fresh rebuild. Shouldn't this be something the builder/installer is fixing?

06-29-2013, 01:02 PM	#1
zaid Registered User Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Kettering, Ohio Posts: 71	P2197 Code ?? Hi guys, two questions, when I first start the car runs great but then after a little bit check engine like comes on and code P2197 O2 Sensor signal Biased/Stuck lean bank 2 sensor 1 which O2 sensor is that ? car starts to run a little rough when the check engine light comes on. second question is: whats the final bolt torque specs for the cylinder head ? I need to recheck the bolts final torque on them. I had a new gasket put in, polts, head was checked but there is a small leak between the block and cylinder head. car is bone stock and the engine was completely rebuilt

06-29-2013, 01:12 PM	#2
311-420 Can't be bridled Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Texas Posts: 7,006	Re: P2197 Code ?? If you think its sucking air past the head gasket, that's likely where your lean code is coming from. Extra unmetered air = lean. __________________ 2004 Mach 1 #6956 5spd w/IUP Eaton swap, longtubes, built 3.73 SRA 452hp/409tq dynojet🏁

06-29-2013, 04:23 PM	#3
slojunk91 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2013 Location: NEW YORK HIGHEST TAXES IN AMERICA Posts: 603	Re: P2197 Code ?? ^^^exactly, or vacuum leak elsewhere.

06-29-2013, 06:59 PM	#5
Nekasrof Hillclimb Extraodinaire Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Perkiomenville, PA Posts: 2,594	Re: P2197 Code ?? If you're using the TTY bolts: 4. Tighten the bolts in six stages in the sequence shown. • Stage 1: Tighten the bolts to 40 Nm (30 lb-ft). • Stage 2: Tighten the bolts an additional 90 degrees. • Stage 3: Loosen the bolts a minimum of one full turn. • Stage 4: Tighten to 40 Nm (30 lb-ft). • Stage 5: Tighten an additional 90 degrees. • Stage 6: Tighten an additional 90 degrees. __________________ RIP - Destroyed August 15, 2015 Motor + Procharger + driver = Baddest hillclimbing Mach 1 in the country Mustang dyno: 538hp/481tq @ 14lbs/19deg timing DynoJet comparison: 600hp/539tq Looking for more hillclimbers!

06-29-2013, 08:50 PM	#7
Matt H Registered User Join Date: May 2012 Location: Stafford, VA Posts: 54	You want to check the torque but the last steps are not a spec. They are 90. You can't loosen them cause they are TTY. Doing another 90 you risk breaking the bolts or stripping the threads out. B2S1 O2 sensor is the upstream driver side (I think). __________________ 03 TR 5 spd. Weld in flows, MM FLSFC, MM coilover conversion, Terminator steering rack, solid steering shaft. Stock motor.

06-30-2013, 01:05 PM	#13
Matt H Registered User Join Date: May 2012 Location: Stafford, VA Posts: 54	^ agreed. Also wondering why OP is attempting to fix an issue on a fresh rebuild. Shouldn't this be something the builder/installer is fixing? __________________ 03 TR 5 spd. Weld in flows, MM FLSFC, MM coilover conversion, Terminator steering rack, solid steering shaft. Stock motor.

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