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Old 06-03-2005, 11:56 AM   #12
birdman941
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Florida
Posts: 13,167
Re: BBK Dual 65mm Throttle body review

Got it!!!
Ok here goes.
Disconnect the battery cable(s).
Its a real PITA so if you are going to put on a BBK Dual 65mm TB on your Mach or 32V 4.6, here it goes............
When you get your TB, make sure the pipe plug is NOT in the back of the unit. If it is, remove it with an allen wrench.
Before you install it on the car, adjust the hard stop (throttle opening) with a small allen key and make the throttle as much in the closed position as you can without it sticking.You will be able to "feel" it if it sticks.
If it isn't sticking, close it some more until it does stick.
Once you get that far, use a phillips screwdriver and SLIGHTLY loosen the four throttle blade screws. Just back them off a little so that there is some surface tension.
Now, open the throttle Wide open and let it slam itself shut a few times.
This will align the throttle blades with the bores in the TB,and it will save you many headaches later. Tighten the four throttle blade retaining screws to "goodentight" SAE specs. Check and see if te throttl "sticks" on initial opening. If it does, lightly adjust the hard stop, opening the throttle just a tad more until it doesn't stick.

Disconnect the throttle and cruise control cables, and disconnect the return spring. Leave the return spring hanging from the maniold bracket so it won't get lost.
Remove your stock TB. 3 - 8mm bolts, 1 - 8mm nut, and 1 - 13mm stud.
Unplug the IAC motor and the TP sensor wires.
You may or may not have to remove the shaker assembly. I didn't.
Use an impact driver type screwdriver to remove the TP (throttle position, not toilet paper) sensor from your oem TB.
You might be able to get the 2 phillips screws out using a high quality screwdriver but a K-Mart one probably won't do it, as there is Loctite on the threads from the factory.
Transfer the TP sensor to the new hrottle body. Make sure the black plastic spacer (should be included with the TB kit) is installed into the new TB where the TP sensor is installed.
Install the new throttle body using your factory bolts. The stud on the shaker bracket WILL go back on, but it rubs a little on the new TB. Its no biggie. The BBK unit comes with allen head screws, but I re-used the factory hardware.
Before you hook up the throttle cable, check and see how much tension will be on the return spring. It should only have to stretch maybe 1/4 inch after installing it. Gently bend the return spring portion of the TB throttle lever TOWARD the center of the engine until the return spring ALMOST reaches the throttle lever. Do not bend the Ford bracket on top of the intake.
If you skip that step, the throttle will be extremely hard and much too tight.
Check and see that the throttle opens smoothly from the closed to WOT position. if you feel it bind, part of the throttle lever may be contacting the intake manifold. If it is binding, gently bend the throttle lever until it is clear.
Take it easy so you don't break it. This is a BBK unit, not FRPP or Accufab.
Recheck the throttle spring tension and position. You may have to bend the throttle lever so the return spring doesn't contact anything. Sounds like a PITA but it isn't too hard.
Install your throttle and cruise control cables.
Reinstall your inlet hose. It might be very tough t fit on, as the OD of the BBK unit is a bit larger than the oem UNIT.
Go inside the car and feel the throttle. See if it's too tight, and if so, adjust the throttle lever where the return spring hooks up.
If it feels OK and there's no binding, connect the battery and start her up!!
Do not hit the throttle until it has run for several minutes and let the PCM relearn the idle strategy.
If the idle rpm is ok, blip the throttle and see how quicly it returns to idle.
If it hangs, ( but not from the cable) turn the engine off.
Disconnect the IAC motor. ( This WILL trip the SES light. No worries)
Restart the engine. If the idle is ok or a little on the low side, blip the throttle and see if it returns ok, hopefully quickly. If this is the case, make a IAC restrictor plate with 2 small (1/4") holes and install it.
When you blip the throttle, if the initial feels like it is sticking, use the allen wrench and adjust the hard stop on the TB SLIGHTLY.
Be sure to disconnect the battery to get rid of the SES light.
Reconnect the battery. Start the car and see if the SES light went out.It should not be on. If it is, make sure you plugged in the IAC motor and the TP sensor.
Take it for a drive (Notice I didn't say "SPIN").
This worked for me. This is NOT a simple bolt on excercise. This is due to, in my opinion, poor quality of the unit.
Once you make all the suggested adjustments, you should be right on, or darned close.
Mine is running stronger now. Throttle response in every gear has drastically improved, and hoping for an MPG boost.his felt like the old days when you couldn't get ANYTHING for a Ford. Had to fabricate nearly everything.
In this day and age, with the popularity of the Machs and 32V engine in general, I feel there is no excuse to have to do all this to ake a product work.
After its done, yeah its worth it. But what a PITA............
Happy Maching.
Steve
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Last edited by birdman941; 06-03-2005 at 12:38 PM.
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