2003-04 Mach 1 Registry Owners Club - View Single Post - Rebuilding a 4.6L Rant. Advice from those who have done it

texas_snake · 07-17-2020, 11:27 PM

OK, I have been working out building a replacement 4.6 4v (looking at teksid). Thinking over good parts and I don't see issues there (good parts availability I think). Expecting a .0020 overbore.

My rant is about the lack of clear information and direction on building an engine with these tight specs. It would be nice to have a common cookbook on building say a 600rwhp 4.6 vs say 1000rwhp one. What I refer to is all the info around machining the block more than anything else.

My research over a couple weeks (and looking over books like the Sean Hyland book) has brought up these details (my head is spinning) :

- Original Ford engines did not use torque plates
- But everyone seems to say that is really needed on a modular (things can be distorted quite a bit with heads on). I get that. Others have stated they have done it without it and things were OK, but I am sure they are missing some compression and perhaps have some nvh.
- Ideally the torque plate should be full size similar material as the aluminum heads. But now even MMR has take their 4.6 torque plate off the market (to buy or rent). Seems 5.0's are all the rage (I get that I guess, but hoped 4.6 would stay longer). So the ones left on the market need shims.
- Should even use 2 torque plates (or head on other side). But I never see this much getting done for any machining videos for these engines or others using torque plates).
- Should even line hone (some say always vs just checking crank bores are in spec). Might have some factory taper. I expect to have the crank micro polished.
- Line hone should also include 2 torque plates bolted on to avoid distortion for the crank. Anyone actually having their machine shop do this?
- And I even saw rings should be fit with torque plates on. I also never see this happening. Not to say some shops have these standards, I am just not seeing it. Only talk on it.
- Debur the block after machining (just about everywhere?)
- I will certainly balance the rotating assembly.

Additionally there are no longer any real machined blocks to buy new. Only really 5.0 options now a days.

Those who have been through this, where did you draw the line and what HP did you shoot for (thus quality of your build).

Additionally, I have a very good machine shop that does Torque Plate work, but don't have 4.6 plates. Need to buy it or see about making it. But also I want to get back with them on these specifics. Or is some of this just crazy picky and not needed for say 600rwhp+ ish power for street use. Also this is a budget with quality build, not a dream build.

Thanks in advance. I am on hold until I fully have the machine work picture straight.

My 351w was sooo much easier to build (I realize things have changed).

07-17-2020, 11:27 PM	#1
texas_snake Registered User Join Date: May 2018 Location: Austin Posts: 16	Rebuilding a 4.6L Rant. Advice from those who have done it OK, I have been working out building a replacement 4.6 4v (looking at teksid). Thinking over good parts and I don't see issues there (good parts availability I think). Expecting a .0020 overbore. My rant is about the lack of clear information and direction on building an engine with these tight specs. It would be nice to have a common cookbook on building say a 600rwhp 4.6 vs say 1000rwhp one. What I refer to is all the info around machining the block more than anything else. My research over a couple weeks (and looking over books like the Sean Hyland book) has brought up these details (my head is spinning) : - Original Ford engines did not use torque plates - But everyone seems to say that is really needed on a modular (things can be distorted quite a bit with heads on). I get that. Others have stated they have done it without it and things were OK, but I am sure they are missing some compression and perhaps have some nvh. - Ideally the torque plate should be full size similar material as the aluminum heads. But now even MMR has take their 4.6 torque plate off the market (to buy or rent). Seems 5.0's are all the rage (I get that I guess, but hoped 4.6 would stay longer). So the ones left on the market need shims. - Should even use 2 torque plates (or head on other side). But I never see this much getting done for any machining videos for these engines or others using torque plates). - Should even line hone (some say always vs just checking crank bores are in spec). Might have some factory taper. I expect to have the crank micro polished. - Line hone should also include 2 torque plates bolted on to avoid distortion for the crank. Anyone actually having their machine shop do this? - And I even saw rings should be fit with torque plates on. I also never see this happening. Not to say some shops have these standards, I am just not seeing it. Only talk on it. - Debur the block after machining (just about everywhere?) - I will certainly balance the rotating assembly. Additionally there are no longer any real machined blocks to buy new. Only really 5.0 options now a days. Those who have been through this, where did you draw the line and what HP did you shoot for (thus quality of your build). Additionally, I have a very good machine shop that does Torque Plate work, but don't have 4.6 plates. Need to buy it or see about making it. But also I want to get back with them on these specifics. Or is some of this just crazy picky and not needed for say 600rwhp+ ish power for street use. Also this is a budget with quality build, not a dream build. Thanks in advance. I am on hold until I fully have the machine work picture straight. My 351w was sooo much easier to build (I realize things have changed).