Quote:
Originally Posted by grey03mach1
So I can run the yellow wire to the FPSS and run the ground that comes from the NMU to a regular ground instead of to the FPSS?
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The way I see it is..a relay works the way you want it to. It takes two low current sources to "energize" the relay which then flips the switch so the high current lines are activated. In my case...there are three parameters that must return "true" for the low current sources to energize and flip the high current. Those parameters are the WOT switch which is directly connected to the relay. Then there is the window switch which is in series with the FPSS. You must be in the desired rpm range for current to flow through the yellow wire, then fuel pressure must be adequate to keep the current running all the way back to the relay. Thus, you have all your parameters satisfied, and the relay is energized and 12 volts supplied to both solenoids and hopefully you go really really fast!
I haven't gotten to making the connections yet (still trying to get the fitting out of my fuel rail test port that was evidently already broken off when I bought the car). But I'll let you know if anything goes wrong with my setup.
Thanks hawkpilot for the merge and the fuse selection. I will be taking your advice and using 30A for the heater and either 20 or 30 for the main stuff.