Re: Eaton Swap.....
 

Hi Guys

Thanks you for your help, I very appreciate that. I thought it would be easier to replace the engine harness, but when you all say I should better go with the stock, then I dont change it.

Yesterday I changed the timing cover and installed the pullies. I also installed the upper alternator bracket. Today was grinding day, I grind off everything what was needed. I also tried to install the S/C crank pulley, but I have some problems to bring it on the crank pulley. I now it counters clockwise for the install, but I cant turn it in. In the crank pulley is some rost, maybe thats the problem. Or is there a trick to install it?

Thanks,
Sascha

Did you use a Cobra crank damper? If so just put the pulley on there straight then screw it in counter clockwise.


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Re: Eaton Swap.....
 

@Kove

Yes, I use the stock damper. I dont know where the problems is, I put on the theard of the damper and I turn clockwise, but I cannot tighten it. Sometimes it seems that the pulley is in the theard, cause it doesnt spin anymore and when I turn it further, it fall out of the theard. It's a bit difficult to explain it for me.

What can I do? Do I have to press it very hard on the damper and turn it in? Whats the trick? should it be very easy to turn it into the theard? Maybe to theard of the balancer is too rosty.

Edit: Where can I get a "safe" tune that I can drive to the dyno shop? I actually bought from American Muscle this " Bama Tune Files for life" last year and I contacted them about a tune. But they cant help me, they cant send me a tune, for my new injectors. I'm very disappointed at the moment :-(

Re: Eaton Swap.....
 

Spin it counter clockwise.

Re: Eaton Swap.....
 

I plan on doing this Sawp next year.. And I am reading all the pages! haha

Re: Eaton Swap.....
 

I ordered a new one, cause the one I got was unusable.

I'm almost finished with the swap, could change the EGR tube ( have to lower the k-member for about 1.5inches), blower is installed. Just have to do the electrical things. Hope I get the balancer next week.

But I still have a problem with the fuel tank. It's very difficult to get a complete tank.

Re: Eaton Swap.....
 

Just modify yours. I have no problem with mine.

Re: Eaton Swap.....
 

You can remove the egr tube without having to lower the motor. You just have to twist it certain ways.

Re: Eaton Swap.....
 

Already changed the EGR tube.

About the tank. Is there a "upgrade kit" that I can use my tank with dual pumps? I want a easy solution, dont want to look on the fuel gauge all the time, if its 1/4 full.

Re: Eaton Swap.....
 

Hi Guys

I just installed the vacuum harness and I have a tiny little problem. There is one "connector" which I dont now where to connect. It's the one which is a 90 degress angle.

I saw, that the line, which have to be connected with the air intake tube, has a "Y"-connector with a cap on it. Do I have to connect it with this one?

Added a pic of it

Edit: Could that be the line for the boost gauge on the cluster? I dont have the Termi cluster, so can I put a cab on it?

Re: Eaton Swap.....
 

So are there really parts that are discontinued ???

I may have to start looking for parts sooner then I thought!

Re: Eaton Swap.....
 

For the parts it looks like there is a "Eaton Swap" Tax on Ebay

Re: Eaton Swap.....
 

Hi Guys

So I finished the electrical part yesterday and after I finished, I saw that I didnt have a connector for one of the solenoids on the driver side. It's the on in the middle.

Can someone tell me please, from where I get the wires for that?

The connector that's not hooked to anything in your other picture here by the inlet of the blower. Is that it or is that the IAC connector. There's a connector that has to be extended to go to that sensor if I remember correctly.


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Re: Eaton Swap.....
 

Yes, one was for the inlet tube. There is another one, which I have to connect to the boost gauge on my gauge cluster. But I dont have the 03 Cobra cluster.

About the connector, it's not the same connector like the one from the IAC. I had to extend the IAC wire for about 3 inches, for the IAT2 I took the wires from MAF. I also have to extend the wires for the DPFE Sensor for the EGR. But about the one from my pic, I found nothing.

I'm not sure then. I did EGR delete when I did my swap, got rid of all those sensors on that bracket.


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Re: Eaton Swap.....
 

So I'm finished with the swap! The car started immediately, but it seems that something isnt working. The car is vibrating and the idle rpms move always between 900 and ~1300 rpms. Thought the car was misfiring, so I checked all the spark plugs, but the locked good. Also tried to read the error code with my Xcal3 but I only get this P1000 drive cycle read error
I still run with the stock 01 Cobra pump and the tank is only 1/8 full, maybe less.


What could that be? Too less fuel in the tank?

Thanks for any help,

Sascha

Re: Eaton Swap.....
 

No vacuum leaks?

Re: Eaton Swap.....
 

how can I check that? I installed all vacuum lines, except the one for the boost gauge, cause I dont have one. I just put a cap on it.

I have to say, I still run a previous tune from last year. Can that be a problem maybe?

Edit: I just flashed the stock tune back and it's a little bit better, the idle rmps doesnt move anymore between 900-1300, its around 1000 now. But the car is still extremly vibraiting. I only know that, when a spark plug isn't working.

Could it be something with the MAF or the IAT1/2?? I use the two outside wires and connected them to the IAT2 and the IAT1 is also connected and in the inlet tube.

Re: Eaton Swap.....
 

anyone use a relay for the intercooler pump? My tuner says it draws alot of amps.

Mine is hooked up to key on power in the fuse box, no relay. My tuner says to disconnect the IC pump when flashing the computer due to the amount of amps it draws.


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Re: Eaton Swap.....
 

I've just done some tests. When I disconnect the MAF, the idle is moving between 900-1500rpms. When I connect it, it's around 1000, but the car is vibraiting as hell. When I just give a little gas, so that it's around 2000rpms, the car runs smoother. Last time, when the car vibraited so much, it was caused of a blown spark plug. I checked them and all looked good for me. Someone told me I have to replace the spark plug with with colder one or so? Could it be a fuse or so? Cause the first time, when I started it, I heard a loud bang.

I also put some more fuel in the tank, now its around 1/4 full.

Re: Eaton Swap.....
 

What kind of plugs and what did u gap them to?

Re: Eaton Swap.....
 

Old ones were: awsf 32e

New one: awsf 32pp


Both are from Ford. The GAP is around 2mm (0.078"). I just saw, that I have to adjust the GAP, but I didnt have done that. Funny is, I bought them from the local Ford dealer and they didnt told me, that I have to do that.

NGK TR6 gapped at about .030


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