Re: Thread for those of us who tune our own cars
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oCkSOXcmg8w |
Re: Thread for those of us who tune our own cars
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Re: Thread for those of us who tune our own cars
Awesome! That is even better. Thanks for sharing. I've been essentially doing the same thing in excel, would have saved a lot of time if I had known LiveLink had this feature. Especially with MAF tuning.
Video is hard to see, so here is a link to a write up based on that video. http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forum...ad.php?t=81526 |
Re: Thread for those of us who tune our own cars
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Re: Thread for those of us who tune our own cars
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Where is the fuel pump voltage table? I can't seem to find it.
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Re: Thread for those of us who tune our own cars
Returnless Fuel Pump category if in SCT. However, if you've converted to a return style system, the returnless fuel pump category is hidden once the fuel system type is changed under system parameters.
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Re: Thread for those of us who tune our own cars
Thanks!
Those histograms are so nice. I've got the LWFMAF table done, fuel pump voltage, and tweaked the MTF a little. Finally threw some timing at it, did some full pulls, and the car feels amazing, best its ever ran I can't wait to take it to the track. E85 tuning will begin after I finish off this last tank of 91. |
Re: Thread for those of us who tune our own cars
How much spark can I get away with without detonating on 91?
Bumped her up to 19 at 3k, 18 at 4k, 17 at 5k, then 16 at 6k+. It was not happy and had some detonation just before 4k. Whoops. Also had my base fuel table set to taper from lamba to about .78. So I'm thinking combined with 18-19 degrees of timing with a 12.2 air fuel and 3-4lbs of boost, it was not happy. Is my timing too aggressive for 91, or should I just change the base fuel table transition? Can timing affect your AFR? Advancing timing just means you are commanded spark earlier, right? Where is the piston at during ignition at 0 degrees vs. 20 degrees advanced? Do I need to change anything in the tune because I have 96 cobra intake cams with the extra 20* of duration? |
Re: Thread for those of us who tune our own cars
To really see what your car likes as far as timing you really need to read the plugs of all cylinders to find which one is running the hottest, the heat mark on the ground strap. That heat mark will let you know if you can advance or need to back the timing off. You need to do this either on a dyno or street where you can kill the motor at the top of the pull and pull over to pull the plugs out or if you found which cylinder is running the hottest just pull that single plug out and read it. Remember the plugs have to be need on every pull to get an accurate marking on the plug. Doing this on the dyno would be easiest.
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Re: Thread for those of us who tune our own cars
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when i was at 7.5# i was running a max of 17* timing and the car was faster than it is now. Just saying? Also your timing vs rpm should if anything got opposite of how u have it as the piston is moving faster(higher rpm) you advance the timing my car has 15* timing from 2000 to 7000rpm under wot. 18* timing at 5# and 4k dosnt sound like alot but if ur knocking then back it off! |
Re: Thread for those of us who tune our own cars
Thanks Jeff. I think my head just exploded a little.
All great info. Maybe after 3 decades of tuning I will be lucky to have half your knowledge. |
"It was not happy and had some detonation before 4k - Whoops!"
I wish ^this was a T-shirt lol Seriously though, I love this thread. I think this is about the most informative thread I've seen on a Mustang forum. The experience really shows when it comes to tuning. IG: @azurebluemach |
Well it wasn't detonation. It was my lean protection module engaging. I clipped the wire from and used it for my firewire. Must have been upset it wasn't getting any voltage.
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Re: Thread for those of us who tune our own cars
Great!
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Re: Thread for those of us who tune our own cars
Although the software isn't SCT, this site has some good info for basic knowledge
http://www.efidynotuning.com/ |
Re: Thread for those of us who tune our own cars
Yeah that site does hve alot of good info especially if your tuning a Fox With BE/QH.
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Re: Thread for those of us who tune our own cars
Quick question for everyone.
Just upgraded my motor and went from 4.6 to 5.3. Only other new modification is ported heads from the last tune. No injector or MAF or Intake changes since last tune. What do I need to look at in SCT PRP? I thought there was somewhere to correct displacement. |
There is. You need to rescale the displacement then adjust your MTF for the increased airflow.
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Re: Thread for those of us who tune our own cars
Misc => Scalars => Engine Displacement
In theory, if nothing else has changed this should be all that you need to update but it wouldn't hurt to re-verify both closed loop and open loop fueling. |
Re: Thread for those of us who tune our own cars
Thanks guys. Should be very close I would think.
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Re: Thread for those of us who tune our own cars
Next question....
Anyone had PRP say the template could not be found? I can't load any of my old tunes or even try to start a new one. Edit.....needed update but Anti virus was closing the window. Got it figured out. |
Re: Thread for those of us who tune our own cars
Only thing I'm still battling with is the idle. Car will idle fine most of the time. I have my idle timing min set to zero. I have my IAC required airflow values set very low, I'd say 20% of the stock values with the restrictor in place. If I don't the car will want to idle at 2k. I played with the dashpot settings and right now I have them all zero'd out, which when its behaving is nice because there is zero hanging idle.
Sometimes it will be idling fine at 700-800, and then for no reason it will bump up to 1,300. Or it won't drop the idle down coming to a stop, I shut the car off, and restart and it will idle normal again. It is really annoying because my BOV goes nuts and my car just sounds like a jet preparing for take off. Any advice before I buy a new IAC? Tried cleaning it with no success. Does the IAC duty cycle really have to be between 30-50% for idle control? If I let it flow that much air it won't even come close to idling under 1k. Perhaps this is a sign it is sticking open even though I'm commanding it to essentially be closed. If it was really closed, the car should in theory not even idle right? Car is running open loop all the time. Closed loop throws the fueling all over the place and the car runs like trash. Idle AFR is perfect. This idle issue has been present ever since I put a smaller pulley on, even with the dyno tune I was previously running from a local shop. Thanks! |
Could it have anything to do with how the air is passing over the MAF sensor? Maybe turning the housing to change the airflow path..?
IG: @azurebluemach |
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