Do modular cam specs compare to windsor specs?
 

I know what I like in a cam for a Windsor engine. If I use the same duration and lobe centers as Windsor cam will I get the same results in a Mod motor? It seems that Mod motor cams have a lot more duration than a Windsor cam and the Windsor has more displacement.

What would be a Modular cam that would have same results as the Comp XE270HR in push rod engine? The 106100 has a lower rpm range but yet the duration is a lot larger.

XE270HR: duration @ 0.050 218/224 LCA 112 intake @ 108. RPM range 1800-5800

106100: duration @ 0.050 226/222 LCA 114 intake at 112 RPM range 1200-5400

Is the duration some how measured differently between the two styles of engines?

Re: Do modular cam specs compare to windsor specs?
 

.050" should be the same no matter what cam and what engine as far as measuring. You also have to consider the lift. I was comparing Crower and Comp cams and the Crower had less duration, but more lift then the Comp.

In all honesty I don't think you can compare them anyway. Different head and intake designs need different styles of cams.

Re: Do modular cam specs compare to windsor specs?
 

No, the specs do not compare between 2 and 4v engines.

Re: Do modular cam specs compare to windsor specs?
 

The duration is measured the same but since 4v egines have more vave area the require less duration to make power.

Re: Do modular cam specs compare to windsor specs?
 

The rpm ranges that comp shows are ******** and not even close to the actual output.

Re: Do modular cam specs compare to windsor specs?
 

Looks like wasted some cash then. The tech from comp told me they would be about the same.

Re: Do modular cam specs compare to windsor specs?
 

What is it you're trying to achieve?

Re: Do modular cam specs compare to windsor specs?
 

Back from the dead!

I'm finally going to get around to putting them in after sitting on them for over a year and half. Still faster than the 2 years it took to put on my long tubes. :23:

As an answer to your question my goal is to be more of the "Stop Light Nationals" king than a track king. I go to test and tune about once a year and that's it.

Since I started this thread I've added a ported intake to go along with the SLP long tubes, K&N kit, PHP spacer, and 4.10s. I also picked up springs from Brain Tooley Racing as well. I know stock ones should work, but I've also seen the issues with the harmonic noise so I'd rather be safe than sorry and only do it once.

What would you recommend I put them at? I have all the gears to dial them in