Re: Eaton Swap.....
 

You don't need a special dampner to run the Metco set up. It's designed to bolt up to the stock dampner. There are other set ups for aftermarket dampners such as the ones Innovators West make.

Personally I'm keeping the stock caged set up. My buddy has the Metco set up and while he's been ok with his ported eaton, he's had belt alignment issues since installing it. We're going to have to have the hub machined to line things up correctly.

Re: Eaton Swap.....
 

I'm deep into the process of Eaton swapping my 2003 Mach1 following a catastrophic engine failure, and I would like to confirm my IAT2 wiring plans. Hopefully the following diagram properly conveys my understanding of what needs to happen:

http://www.asylent.net/webpage/stati...at2-wiring.png

Aye?

Re: Eaton Swap.....
 

Thanks for correcting me, 01yellerCobra. I edited my post so as to save face and prevent misinformation from circulating.

:)

Re: Eaton Swap.....
 

No worries. That's why we're all here. I'm really not a fan of the Metco set up. There's a guy making a 4lb caged lower on SVTP. I thought about grabbing one of those, but I don't think I'll need it for my future plans.

Re: Eaton Swap.....
 

I recently removed the stock caged lower on my 03 Cobra and installed the Metco 2# lower kit.
I also had alignment issues where my belt would jump 1 rib off on the backside of the lower pulley.
I was able to fix it by shimming the top of the Metco bracket out using a couple of flat washers. No issues since, HOWEVER it sucks that Metco quality is like that.
I agree that machining the hub slightly should fix the issue, but I wanted a quick/easy solution.

We've run the Metco stuff for years on other cars at our shop without any known failures.
However I have seen on the internet of guys having issues when going to larger blowers such as the Whipple 3.4 and 4.0 models.

Ryan

Re: Eaton Swap.....
 

That's the same problem my buddy is having. We were looking at it here at my house and we could watch the belt walk off the back of the crank pulley. It's the only one that does that too.

I've known one failure personally of the Metco pulley. I installed one on a friends car and a few thousand miles later the pulley fell off the hub. He looked at it and the bolts had sheared that held it on. He was running a Whipple 2.3. I have plans for a 2.9 in the future. Hence why I want to stick with the caged lower.

Re: Eaton Swap.....
 

Makes sense. I saw the thread on SVTP about the 4lb caged lower and that was cool!

Re: Eaton Swap.....
 

Has anyone been able to match up a metco lower hub to our stock balancer?
I didnt really want to have to get a cobra balancer, but its looking more and more that im going to have to, just so I can install my 4lb lower assembly.
Just turning up the waters to see if anyone has done it and has a template for the redrilling.

Re: Eaton Swap.....
 

I used a Metco setup with a stock balancer without issue. I will say that if you are going to run more than 10 psi of boost, use the upper hole for the idler on the Metco bracket. I had issues with the belt walking off the front of the crank pulley using the lower idler position. It was causing the alternator to flex too much and was throwing/eating the belt. I am running a Whipple 3.4@25psi though so I know that isn't helping. Just wanted to throw that out there in case you get the hub setup installed.

Re: Eaton Swap.....
 

Yea, im just currently using the hub and ring for my setup. I dont have the bridge and all the relocated item for mine. It currently has a marauder bracket setup to be different.
Crazy to hear someone didnt have a problem bolting there hub right up with no problems but my stocker doesnt line up with the metco holes.

Re: Eaton Swap.....
 

Just a quick question. I recently did my swap and i noticed a flat spot for just a second around 4000 rpms and it picks right back up. I have a boost a pump with the stock pump and im thinking that could be the issue. Has anyone else noticed this issue?

Re: Eaton Swap.....
 

I used a boost a pump with my stock pump for a bit and I never noticed any flat spots during pulls.

Re: Eaton Swap.....
 

Does it happen during a shift or while being out of the throttle and then stabbing the throttle really fast? If so, could be the pprv getting hung closed.

Has the car been dyno tuned?

Re: Eaton Swap.....
 

For me its when im floored and right at about 4k but its literally like a half second and it continues to pull.

Re: Eaton Swap.....
 

I am in the middle of my Eaton Swap, I am needing a stock cobra pulley and the heat exchanger mounting brackets and hardware. Any suggestions on where to find these?

Re: Eaton Swap.....
 

The heat exchanger brackets are almost unobtainable. Ford doesn't make them and I haven't found any place that makes aftermarket ones. I got lucky a few months ago and found some on eBay though...so keep checking eBay or Mustang forum classifieds.

Re: Eaton Swap.....
 

Agreed. I found a nice set on Ebay recently for my Mach 1 project for under $125 shipped.

Re: Eaton Swap.....
 

^These guys have already said it, but eBay is a good one. Mps auto salvage is worth calling as well. Maybe even put a feeler out in the terminator parts classifieds section of svtperformance. The factory pulley should be easy to find. Worst case, you can make some brackets.

Re: Eaton Swap.....
 

Thanks guys!

Re: Eaton Swap.....
 

So im running the stock mach 1 fuel pump with a boost a pump and looking to upgrade. What pump do you guys recommend?

Re: Eaton Swap.....
 

I'm using an aeromotive 340 stealth

Re: Eaton Swap.....
 

I wanted to update this issue that I have fixed recently.
In the provided instructions, it says that with their smaller pulleys (2 and 4 pound increase) to only use the idler at the lowest setting on the supplied aluminum bracket. This is how I did mine, but had belt walk issues.
I decided to move the idler up to the higher setting, which meant using a longer belt, but also gave me more belt-wrap.
Would you believe this solved my belt issues?
While I had this off, I also ensured my alternator was lined up properly and removed all previous installed shims/washers I had added before.

I have had the car this way for 3 months and zero belt issues ever since.
Nice to fix the problem, but I just wish the instructions would have told me this in the beginning!

So my suggestion, if using the Metco lower pulley kit, put the idler pulley onto the highest setting on the supplied aluminum bracket and use a longer belt.

Ryan

Re: Eaton Swap.....
 

I had this issue as well once I went with a Whipple 3.4 at 25 psi. The lower pulley setting would cause the alternator to get pulled forward and caused the belt to jump constantly. I moved the idler pulley up and all was good for the most part. I did have to fabricate a bracket that bolted the back of the alternator to the block and that was the final cure for any belt walk I experienced.

For anyone using a bigger blower or lots of boost, I suggest sourcing a factory caged lower due to the stress on the crank snout caused by the Metco setup. This was advice given to me by my tuner that I have since followed.

Re: Eaton Swap.....
 

So i have a stock intake with a drop in filter and stock headers with a bassani cat back exhaust, thinking about getting a full cai, throttle body and headers. What kind of power bump should i be expecting and are long tubes better than shorty headers?

Re: Eaton Swap.....
 

I'm in the process of bolting my eaton swap back together and have a few questions.

1) If anyone is using a 3.0" upper pulley what kind of boost are you making?
2) Has anyone tuned your own eaton swap?

Thanks!