Re: Eaton Swap.....
 

Hi Guys

I have a 2001 Cobra and want to do also an eaton swap. I've almost everything that I need, also parts that acutally arent needed after I read this thread here, like the complete ecu with harness...

The biggest part which is still dont have, is the fuel tank with pumps. But I will buy one from ebay, I think. There some other parts like new gaskets, which I have to buy. I bought a set for about 3.6k but with a Stiegemeier Stage 4 ported eaton, metco lower pulley kit and LFP Heat exchanger.

But I have some questions. The 01 Cobra has the same IAC like the Mach1? So I have to buy a new one? What about the IAT2 Baro sensor? Do I have to change that one too? Something that is also not clear for me, is thing about the knock sensor. Has the 01 Cobra also this knock sensor? Didnt found something in the I-Net.

Would be thankful for some help.

You don't have to get the Cobra IAC but it is recommended because of the way our stock ones wiring harness points to the hood instead of to the side. For the IAT2, you can use either the IAT sensor in the intake or the IAT2 at the back of the blower. Our wiring harness doesn't have the provisions for both.


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Re: Eaton Swap.....
 

Since you have an 01, I think they have a separate iat sensor already. You can use that one or just extend the wires to the iat2, which would be preferred for most. If you use the stock one you will still need the iat2 sensor to plug the hole in the blower.

For iac you can user the stock one, but you will have to put it in a vice and turn it 90 degrees so that it points to the side.

Yes, the 01s still have the knock sensors in the valley.

Re: Eaton Swap.....
 

Thank you for the answers.


That would be my next question, if I can turn the IAC sensor to the side. But thats some more, that I dont have to buy.

That means I can use the IAT at the intake tube or extend the wires to the IAT2 behind the blower? So I actually dont need the IAT at the intake?

About the knock sensors, so I have to grind them or?

I'm not sure, if I should do the swap by myself or bring it to the car shop. They want about 2500Euro incl. DynoTune. How complicated is to do the swap? I'm not a mechanic, but its not so that I'm a complete noob. I replaced many things by myself like the complate intake manifold, radiator, CAI. But a eaton swap I a level higher I think.

thanks for your help

Re: Eaton Swap.....
 

Knock sensors have to be ground off, same as the mach 1. You do not need the iat at the intake. Post blower temps are more important.

Holy smoke, they are making a killing off you. What's it hurt to try yourself? It can be done, just take your time. It's just putting a ~70 pc puzzle together, but on your car.

Re: Eaton Swap.....
 

When I would do the swap here in Switzerland it would cost much more, than 2500Euro. This car shop is in Germany and specialized for US cars. I know they have done an eaton swap and I would say, thats the only eaton swap here in europe.

What I dont want, that I do it myself and when I'm done the car dont start or something like that. But actually I would like to do myself, like to work with my car :-)

About the IAT, I have the complete harness so I can just replace it with the stock one and then I can install both IAT?

I saw that I got the IAC, but the alternator is missing, the intercooler pump is broken and there are some parts, which I dont know what it is.

I will make some pictures to show them here.

Another question. I read that it isnt necessary to take off the oil pan, but do I have to get oil out of the engine? When I put the timing cover and the oil cooler away, if there will come a flood of oil against me.

Re: Eaton Swap.....
 

I just finished my eaton swap on my 01 Cobra. Make sure you have all teh hoses and the ps hard lines too as the hoses are discontinued from Ford. The ps lines are not but who knows how long they will have stock
Also, the vacuum hose harness on the side of the eaton sc is discontinued from Ford. I bought the very last one in the US Ford network.

Re: Eaton Swap.....
 

Where do I have to install the intercooler pump? Didnt found a pic, where I have to install it.

@cobra drifter

I have alot of hoses, but I think I dont have the ps hard lines. I will take some pics today.


Another question. I want to install forged internals, so I found a set from Mustang Mod Racing 779$ Manley I-Beam Rods and pistons which should handle around 750HP. But I dont now, which dome volume the pistons should have?. Is -18cc ok?

Edit:

Here are some pics:

http://photobucket.com/eatonSwap

Pic 1: SC with injectors, fuel rail, intercooler
Pic 2: EGR with Tube. Where do I have to connect the other side of this tube?
Pic 3: Donno?
Pic 4: Intercooler hoses
Pic 5: Vacuum Hoses harness
Pic 6: Donno?
Pic 7: What are these hard lines in the middle? PS hard lines?
Pic 8: Other hard lines
Pic 9: more pics

Re: Eaton Swap.....
 

Goes behind bumper.on the passenger side.

http://i1064.photobucket.com/albums/...magejpeg_2.jpg

Re: Eaton Swap.....
 

@Shakn04

Thanks for that pic.



Hey guys, could someone tell me, whats wrong with this offer?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/150850672559...ewItem&vxp=mtr

I added some pics at my last post.

Can I still use my steeda underdrive pulley? And how can I remove the EGR tube? So far I know is one side attached to the header at the drive side.

Re: Eaton Swap.....
 

What is the best way to remove the EGR tube from the headers??

Re: Eaton Swap.....
 

if getting a inspection isnt hard or if they arent hard on emissions, id do an EGR delete. Do away with all that crap, cap off the manifold and egr port on the blower.

Re: Eaton Swap.....
 

I have the 03 Cobra EGR with the tube, so I want to remove the 01 EGR with the tube. But it looks a bit difficult for me for remove the tube.

Re: Eaton Swap.....
 

It's gonna be difficult to do from the bottom of the car or top of the car without dropping the k member I believe. It can be done, just gonna take a bit of knuckle busting time.

Re: Eaton Swap.....
 

New question. It looks like, that the long screw for the oil cooler is missing. Can I use the 01 Cobra one or do I have to one from a Termie? Looks for me that 01Cobra screw would be to short.

I got the ECU also from the seller, should I install it or use my stock ECU?


Thanks

Re: Eaton Swap.....
 

****, I think at will be hard to remove the EGR tube from the headers. When I let it away, will I have some problems with the emissions? Cause I have to go every 2 years to the local car inspection and they controll the emissons. They just do it with the ODB.

Re: Eaton Swap.....
 

Hi Guys

I have an urgend question. I removed so far the the intake manifold, waterpump, underdrive pulley, and much more. It runs pretty god at the moment.

The next step what I will do, is to grind off the knock sensor ports. But when I remove them, what should I do with the harness there?? This harness is connected with the engine harness behind the manifold intake, then it goes to the 2 knock sensors, go further to the one Injector and then it connected to another big harness, in the near of the AC compressor.

But when I use the 03 engine harness, I dont have this plug for the knock sensors. Can I leave the other plug around the ac compressor unpluged?

Next question. On the drive side my engine harness goes to all injectors and is connected to the alternator and the fuse box. Is this a separate cable on the 03 cobra?

I added 2 pics and marked it

Re: Eaton Swap.....
 

your wiring question confused me, but i didnt swap out my factory ECU or wiring harness at all. and just unplug your knock sensors and throw'em somewhere.

only thing i did with my harness is extended the alt wires, and afew other small things, but it wasnt anything crazy.

Re: Eaton Swap.....
 

sry, it's a bit difficult to explain it. But the cable come from the engine harness behind the manifold intake, goes to the 2 knock sensors and then it goes further to the passenger side, where it will plugged into another cable.

I added 2 pics, there you see the cable which comes from the knock sensor and go down the area around the ac compressor.

Why don't you just leave the Mach 1 harness in there instead of swapping? There's really no advantages of using the Cobra harness aside from having both IAT and IAT2 sensors. Plus, it's much simpler to use the existing harness, just extend a few wires.


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Re: Eaton Swap.....
 

See notes above.

Re: Eaton Swap.....
 

Use the stock mach harness. Leave the knock sensor connectors in the valley of the block. Remove that thick plastic around that wiring loom and it makes it easier to flex the way you want it when it comes out by the front of the motor.

Re: Eaton Swap.....
 

Ok, then I dont remove the harness. Then I only have to extend the alternator wire or?

Extend alternator wire and put the Cobra alternator plug on. Clip two of the wires off the MAF and extend them to the IAT2, then there another one that has to be extended if you don't do EGR delete. It's all in this thread within the first couple pages.


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Re: Eaton Swap.....
 

Its all in the thread what needs to be done.