Rear brakes How to:
 

Re: Rear brakes How to:
 

continued...


6. At this point, you can use a rear caliper screw-in tool ($5-10 at any local auto parts store), or just rent a much better kit such as this or buy one for yourself. www.Harborfreight.com sells the kit for $29-39.00
http://img3.imageshack.us/img3/88/re...pertoolkit.jpg

6. (a) Screw the piston in as shown:

http://img688.imageshack.us/img688/70/reartool.jpg

Step # 6 takes about 2 minutes of grunting...still very easy!!

7. Now, if you're replacing the rotors, grab a breaker bar, a 15mm socket and a nice large socket wrench, and take those 2 (totally exposed/unobstructed) 15mm bolts off. *Never use a torque wrench for this. Wrench shown was for illustration purpose only*
http://img203.imageshack.us/img203/7...arbrakes07.jpg

Another angle: (see? no handbrake cable in the way) Yay!
http://img3.imageshack.us/img3/5860/rearbrakes09.jpg

Step # 7 is necessary IF you're going to take the rotors off and either replace them with new ones, or going to take them down to your local parts store to have them resurfaced with a lathe. (takes a very fine layer off and makes them nice and flat surfaced).

8. When that process is complete, replace the bracket and resinstall the two 15mm bolts (Use some thread locker/locktite on the bolt's threads first). Then place the new pads as shown with the anti-rattle clips at both ends.
http://img688.imageshack.us/img688/2...arbrakes10.jpg

9. Slide caliper back onto the bracket and install the two 13mm bolts back onto the sliders with the accordion boots.

(ALSO NOTE: This would be an EXCELLENT time to slide those boots off to expose the shiny sliders inside. Grease them with some high temp grease and they should be good until the next brake pad change. This prevents a very common problem of rear caliper SEIZING which is normally due to exposed sliders that have gone dry and caused the heat from the calipers to seize the little slider piston into the caliper...and prevents use of rear brakes and can be very dangerous.)

-Ken

EDIT****

If imageshack (pic hosting site) takes a crap and the pics do not show up, my buddy copied my write up and hosted it on his site:

http://newyorkmustangs.com/forums/ho...24.html?t=4024

Take care!

-Ken

Re: Rear brakes How to:
 

Another excellent write-up from Agent 006! Thanks for the post!

Re: Rear brakes How to:
 

I always take the bracket/Caliper off as an assy. Makes it alot easier at least for me.

Re: Rear brakes How to:
 

Great post!!! A lot of help..Thanks

Re: Rear brakes How to:
 

great pics too!:yeh:

Big Ron

Re: Rear brakes How to:
 

Isn't it a NO-NO to use a torque wrench to remove nuts or bolts? I've always been advised to not do this.

Re: Rear brakes How to:
 

Thanks for this post! I went into my brake job blind thinking it was gonna be like all the rest but after being given the wrong pads and bad advice, that would have made this project into an all day thing. I finally checked the forum and found this that answered everything and I finished about a half hour after looking at this!:ORANGE:

Re: Rear brakes How to:
 

Thanks 006....another great writeup

Re: Rear brakes How to:
 

Just wanted to thank 006...great write up! One point I wanted to make, though: the bolts going into the "accordian boot" covered sleeves are 12mm on my car.

Again, awesome write up. It took me 2 hours to do it, but I've never done rear brakes like this before. Thanks

Re: Rear brakes How to:
 

Excellent write ups on the front and rear brakes. All write ups should be this plainly written and with such clear and precise picltures.

Re: Rear brakes How to:
 

REALLY appreciate all of the effort that you put into this!

Re: Rear brakes How to:
 

One tip I learned the hard way. There is an indexing tab on the brake pad needs to fit into one of the two grooves cut in the piston top that you use to screw it back into the caliper. IF you dont recognise this, then this indexing pin digs a nice hole in the top of your aluminum piston ... dont ask me how I know ....

Wish I had read this post first. Would have saved me a ton of time. Good work :)

Re: Rear brakes How to:
 

Thanks again for another helpful post!

Re: Rear brakes How to:
 

What happened to the pics?

Re: Rear brakes How to:
 

Rehosted the pics on imageshack...

(mustangmods which was the previous pic hosting site, took a ****)

Done!

:PICS:

Re: Rear brakes How to:
 

Re read his post..he did not use the torque wrench nor is he advocatibg that you do so...he was very clear it was for illustration only...

Re: Rear brakes How to:
 

Thanks for the beautiful Photos. I figured it was easy, now I know for sure. Thanks again.:3amin:

Re: Rear brakes How to:
 

Thanks for placing the pics back on the thread... very helpful

Re: Rear brakes How to:
 

Im Glad this is here.....cause I just recently bought a pair of billet specialties and im having a hard time fitting them over the stock mach1 rear cobra brake set.There 15 x 10.5 wheels with 6.5 bs.The caliper,brake line hose with that attached to the cube shape piece with the screw piece are in the way and can not fitt the wheel and turn it without rubbing over parts of the brake system.what is there I can do to make clearence?Is there another brake set for the rear to make at least a quarter of an inch of clearence to make that wheel fitt without rubbing issues????Your help would be useful....Thanks.

Re: Rear brakes How to:
 

have you talked to Saul or aaron bout it? i'm sure you have

you need to start postin some more on here man, good to see you on m1r

Re: Rear brakes How to:
 

im glad you put emphasis on NOT taking off the handbrake cable. that god **** spring takes forever to put back on....when i say forever i mean its one of those where if ur life depended on you getting it back on in an hour you would most certainly just pick death after 15 minutes of working on it.

Re: Rear brakes How to:
 

I just put new pads and rotors on my mach this evening. We had trouble getting the caliper to slide down over the pads once they were in the bracket. We tapped it down with a hammer and got it together. However, once we put the wheels back down and dropped it down, the back brakes are acting as if they are stuck and won't release. At this point it was too late in the evening to take it back apart. I'll have to mess with it tomorrow(hopefully) and see what we did wrong.

Re: Rear brakes How to:
 

You got GT pads. Take em back and get Cobra/Mach 1 pads - you're about the 100th person this has happened to
(if you're using a hammer to put your brakes together, something is WRONG)

Re: Rear brakes How to:
 

Thanks. I figured it out late last night. I had the QC627 Wagner pads, and needed the PD627A. I compared the two and there doesn't seem to be a huge difference. I'm going to put them on now and hopefully won't have any issues.