TKat13's Mach1 Build Log
Figured I would share my on-going build log with the guys/gals at M1R, the folks here have seen my car go through most of its stages so why stop now. :)
Reason: Car is slow. (98k miles, still runs better than new, but still slow) Logic: I was either going to buy a new car or take that down payment and put towards rebuilding the Mach into the car I have always wanted. Eventually, I chose to apply the money to a rebuild. Bottom line, I have yet to get tired of the Mach, this is the first car that I have kept this long and I still enjoy it. Other than it being so slow. So, I am setting out to resolve the core issue I have with the Mach. Answer: Make it fast, but still retain daily driver status. It will be a real daily driver not one that could be a daily. Budget: Let's just say I have already blown the initial budget, it was set at 10k, lets just say it will be less than buying a new loaded GT. I am fortunate enough to have this opportunity but this is only because I have not had a car payment since 2009. I am the original owner. In other words, I have been saving for this moment. :) Turning Wrenches: I take pride in doing as much as possible myself to the car. However, I am also smart enough to know when it is best to enlist the experience of the pros. I would like to say I have done everything, but that is and will not be true. HPP in Lewisville has been a huge help in selecting parts, building the pieces of the puzzle that I cannot afford to mess up and of course Manny will be tuning it. However, I will do the install of everything in very cramped area of my garage. Log Plan: I will keep the next post updated with as many specifications as possible. If I change my mind as I have done many times then I will update the main post of the log. Well, that is the idea anyway. |
TKat13's Mach1 Build Log
The Plan:
Replace the Motor, Transmission, Driveshaft, Rear End and add a power adder. I met all but one of this forum's requirement to post here so 3 out of 4 wins. I will add more details as I progress, please be patient. Motor (HPP Built Longblock): Teksid Block .20 over Forged Stroker Crank (5.0 for final displacement) Forged coated pistons, w/file fit rings, compression spec'd by HPP, 9.8:1 I think) Oliver Billet Rods (budget buster) ARP bolts and Head studs throughout (wow, I learned bolts are expensive) Heads fully ported Custom HPP spec'd Billet ground Turbo Cams Canton 9 quart oil pan/pickup Billet oil pump gears Transmission: TH400 built HPP Spec'd torque converter (turbo application) Hurst Quarter Stick Shifter Trans brake Prothane Trans Mount - 7-1604-BL Lokar Dipstick - TD-3350400FM B&M Super Cooler - 70274 Aeroquip Startlite -6AN Hose - FCU0620 Aeroquip Fittings - Pressure relief valve, drains back into trans pan. New driveshaft for this application Summit G4890 9" fan Derail adjustable thermostat controller/relay Tee Fitting for temp sensor Rear: 31 Spline Moser axles 31 Spline Diff 3.08 Ford Racing Gears All new bearings, races etc Ford Racing Girdle Axles tubes welded with HPP support arms, also tubes straightened by HPP Wolfe Race Craft lower control arms Prothane Rear Upper Spring Isolators Rearend Gear/Diff Install by HPP, rest by me. Power Adder: Upgraded to Precision 76mm Turbo. 70mm turbo On3 kit, forward facing with larger intercooler. Headers ceramic coated Hot side of turbo ceramic coated (hate rust) Boost Controller Electric Cut-out on down pipe Fuel System: HPP Triple Hat - More info soon, this is the big momma of fuel systems. I do not want to buy a fuel system twice so just going big first. Three Walbro 465lph pumps, E85 safe. Interior Upgrade: O2 Gauge Boost Controller Gauge/interface Pioneer DVD Radio and Amps ( Did I say this was a full make-over?) Front Suspension: UPR K-Member (really wanted MM but not compatible) Prothane Steering Rack bushings. UPR A-Arms MM Coil-Over kit Misc: Poly Motor Mounts from LMR Prothane TH400 Transmission mount + Custom built cross beam. Parts Left on the car from previous mods: H&R Rear Race Springs MM Caster/Camber Plates MM Bumpsteer kit MM Steering rack bushings (Update, could not use, does not work with the UPR K-Member) MM Sport Struts and matching Rear Shocks MM Full Length Subframe connectors Magnaflow cat-back |
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Congrats! :CHEERS: Im looking forward to reading about your build.
I just about have my Mach paid off. Then comes the task of saving for my build similar to yours. |
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Step 1:
Buying the parts. This is more of a show and tell session. It is exciting to have parts show up. FWIW, I have purchased 90% or more of my parts from HPP via Brad, he has been either cheaper or at least match any price I find. The best thing is HPP really helps explain every part I buy through them. Very nice to have a face to a purchase. It is also nice to be within a few miles of their shop. I just can't say enough great things about how that entire shop has treated me through this long process. I have been buying parts since March. Again, thanks to the guys at HPP, Manny, Brad, Brandon, Chris, Scott and Jay. Here are some Suspension Parts: UPR K-Member: https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-u...EE1E0B6941.JPG UPR A-Arms: https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-_...B18ECB7C4A.JPG Front Coil Springs that come with the MM Coil-Over kit, these are 350lb https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-9...629F4F5057.JPG MM Coil-Over kit, this kit is very nice btw. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-S...F2B2A1327D.JPG |
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Your gonna love it! cant wait to see the power this monster will make. How much boost you gonna run?
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I'd go with a return fuel system and e85. quite a build! I'll be interested to see how it turns out. Thats quite a parts list.
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Here are some pictures of the Turbo Kit. This is the On3 forward facing kit with the larger intercooler option. If there are specific pictures of parts that anyone wants to see just ask, now is the time before they go on the car.
Intercooler: https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-n...9DFEE77BC6.JPG Another pic: https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-7...89FD64EA46.JPG Turbo Kit Expanded view, in the bubble wrap is the slot style maf sensor and pigtail adapter. I let the tuner pick the maf sensor: https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-z...492478C0B1.JPG Pictures like this shows me how bad I need to clean my garage, yikes! Piping: https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-S...0339EC368B.JPG |
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More Piping:
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-p...3C04C5F997.JPG Turbo when I first unpacked it, literally. Pig tail, maf and mounting plate make another appearance: https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Q...7014BF9710.JPG I had the hot side of the turbo ceramic coated, looks better and will not rust. https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-S...03F5C0AA22.JPG With the flash on... https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-a...090F7FF8B5.JPG |
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Exhaust Headers as I unpacked them from On3:
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-B...E354628D7B.JPG Same Headers after getting them Ceramic Coated: https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-r...737782CB58.JPG I should have not shown these, proof that I am the one that scratched the table! Don't tell the wife. Moser 31 Spline Axles with 3" studs: https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-S...187A806449.JPG Ford Racing Girdle: https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-x...62635D3345.JPG |
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Diff:
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-b...23B764DF25.JPG Here's the Mach letting Mother Nature supply the bath. View from my office at work, I caught myself daydreaming of building the car so I took a picture. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-c...69234D258E.JPG The '11 GT belongs to a buddy at work. There are 7 people in the office, two of them have '11 GTs, one has a '99 GT 2 Valve that makes 730 RWHP and of course my Mach. The guy that owns the '11 next to the Mach also has an 8k Mile '03 Cobra and an '88 GT. I think this group has an affinity to ponys. :CHEERS: |
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wow this looks like a fun build..subscribed.
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That would be nice having a bunch of friends or co-workers with the same taste of cars. Everyone at my work bashes on American cars. They like to drive torque-less euro cars and none of them will race me when I call them out. :) |
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Looking forward to your build.
Similar circumstances for me. I would love a new 5.0 but I have not grown tired of the Mach either. Have a few plans myself... Good luck with the build |
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That build looks intense! That'll be crazy. Are you in the Lewisville area? I'm literally about 10 minutes away from HPP. I don't think I've seen another single Mach around here though.
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Looks like a lot of fun. I went the other route and added a lowish miled Whipple Terminator to my collection. I figured I might as well have another car while I was at it. I'm sure you're going to get more performance out of the deal. Looks like a ton of fun. Congrats! Make sure you get some good vids!
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very nice!!!!
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sweet build so far! keep it coming!
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As a quick update, I just ordered the TH400, Shifter, bell housing, converter, flywheel, dipstick and all the other related items. So this completes my drivetrain purchases. Now just waiting on delivery. The heads are near completion and I hope to post some pics of the porting job. To keep my car on the road I started with known good heads. Now the bad news, it appears as work has me booked for a large amount of travel over the next few weeks so progress will slow. But, that is ok as I am waiting on parts anyway. I hope to remove the rear end this weekend, strip it and take it to HPP to have the Axels welded in their jig. Once I get it back, sandblast and paint and rebuild everything including new bearings. What is the best paint for the rearend? Looking for a Matte Black. |
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I had to take advantage of the 80 degree weather in Texas on Sunday so I removed the Rear and gutted it. I will be dropping off the rear to HPP today to have the Axels welded in a jig. As you can see from the pictures it is a bit cramped in my garage. The 'Cuda is consuming a good amount of space (this is the next project).
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-u...o/IMG_0803.JPG Here are the 4:10s coming out, 3:08s going back in this weekend. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-j...o/IMG_0807.JPG Yes, they are for sale as well as the stock axels and diff, the diff was rebuilt about 20k miles ago. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Y...o/IMG_0806.JPG And now it is empty. Not very exciting but I will post more as I rebuild the rear end. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-F...o/IMG_0805.JPG Can't really work on it during the week so the Mach is out of commission until next Saturday. My wife, the trouper she is attempted to help me lift the loaded rear on my stand, but it was just too much. At least she tried. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-3...o/IMG_0804.JPG Now I just need to figure out how to remove the ABS rings from the axels, any ideas? |
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I used a press to remove and install my abs rings
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Quick update, since I pulled the rear I decided I should upgrade the lower control arms so after much research I decided to go with a set of Wolfe Race Craft lowers. Recommended by HPP but after comparing them with others I was sold. Even better they are not only made in the good USA but close to home in Texas!
Here's a quick picture: http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/21/aqugy9eh.jpg They are only 235.00. |
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I finally ended my 7 week travel for business tour. It was a complete pain being away from the home for so long. I had a day here and there to work on the Mach but to be honest getting motivated was pretty tough knowing that the next day I was flying out to another location. Anyway, I got a little to report, but not much.
I did get my rear end housing back from HPP. I had the tubes welded up and had them add some additional bracing. One of my tubes were tweaked pretty good, but with their jig they were able to get everything back to spec. This weekend I cleaned it up and painted it with a high-temp epoxy paint. 9 years of daily driving it pitted the metal pretty bad, not sure why Ford does not protect these things. Anyway, it looks much better. The housing is empty and the rear cover will be replaced with a girdle style, I just used the stock one as a cover for when I sandblasted and painted it. https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-p...o/IMG_0915.PNG Welded tubes: https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Z...o/IMG_0915.PNG Bracing + (ugly toes): https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-5...o/IMG_0915.PNG Next in line is to fix my press, I forgot that part of it bent when I replaced my ball joints months ago. urg.. Maybe tonight I will stop by the hardware store and pick up some steel and get welding. 90% of the Harbor Freight press is good, that 10% is what failed and it is very easy to see why. Not sure why they used a different material on the press bar. (of course a good amount of this was user error... . |
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Update on the heads; took a couple quick pictures of the ported heads, the custom turbo billet cams also arrived this week.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-W...o/IMG_1735.JPG https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-b...o/IMG_1735.JPG https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-n...o/IMG_1735.JPG https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-S...o/IMG_1735.JPG Still working on the rear, need to adjust the pinion depth, when I went to pull the bearing off of the pinion I discovered that my press was a bit small for that huge pinion gear on 3.08s. So, I could not press off the bearing. Threw the towel in and HPP has the rear. They will set the pinion and install the diff/backlash etc. I will complete it from there. Bottom line, I am working to many hours and don't have much time left over. Hope to have it back in the car this week. |
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I finally completed the Rear, stayed up until 2AM working on it, then when I went to put the wheels on I completely overlooked the fact that I now need lug nuts that are open. I knew this but just forgot to purchase them. This means no test drive.
I fully expect the car to be very slow now, maybe better mpgs until get to the rest of the build. 4:10s to 3:08s is a huge change. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-R...o/IMG_1735.JPG Not sure why the pics turned out so grainy. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-p...o/IMG_1735.JPG https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-e...o/IMG_1735.JPG I decided to have HPP setup the pinion depth and backlash; they did a great job and did a 1 day turn around for me. As busy as they are, it is nice that they were able to push my job through. |
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Finished installing the rear last night, took it for a drive and it was spot on. Not as slow as I thought it would be. I was really concerned that the lower control arms from Wolfe would add a good amount of NVH because there a no bushings but I was extremely pleased that there was really no noticeable additional NVH.
Those pieces are very good quality and a fraction of the cost of many others. Highly recommend them. I seen the same ones used at the track on cars running 4.8 in the 1/8 at almost 150mph. Thumbs up on these! Here she is after the test drive resting back home. I have not driven it since mid July because of my work schedule, I really forgot how much I love this car. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-n...o/IMG_1753.JPG Another grainy picture, not sure what is wrong with my phone all of a sudden. urg.. |
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Quick update: I sold the transmission ahead of schedule so I am stuck waiting on some parts, down to the torque converter. Once this shows up I will put the TH400 in the car but with the old motor as I still need to purchase the rest of the fuel system.
Parts left to buy: 1. Eboost2 2. Fuel System 3. Air/Fuel Gauge 4. Rear Tires Parts Considering: 1. Sullivan Intake with HPP upper 2. MSD 2-Step Since I pulled the Trans, it then forced me to upgrade the driveshaft and yoke. I did buy some really nice pieces, this should not break with my power level. Since I want the measurements to be perfect, I decided to go ahead and put the new K-Member/Coil-over suspension in the car. Not expecting any changes in Engine location but just incase I did not want to take any chances and stuck with the wrong driveshaft length. So I yanked all the suspension. I am now extremely familiar with both ends of the car now. :) Here are some pictures of the progress. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-a...o/IMG_1864.JPG The motor mount in the pic above is completely trashed, split all the way through, the metal plate fell off just after taking this picture. So, I ordered Poly Motor mounts from LMR. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-p...o/IMG_1868.JPG K-Member comparison: https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-8...o/IMG_1862.JPG |
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Picked up the transmission recently as well, TH400.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-W...o/IMG_1854.JPG The bell-housing took forever to get, it was on back order for months, they had some tooling issues. Here is the pressure relieve valve for the transmission lines running to the front cooler. Just another safety precaution, I try my best to learn from other's breaking points and attempting to incorporate their solutions when I can. Highly recommended by HPP. Another one of those items that I trust my tuner's advice. Very pleased with how much help HPP gives me. https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-x...o/IMG_1853.JPG Picked up the shifter as well: https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-X...o/IMG_1788.JPG |
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Good progress! That rear end looks great. Transmission looks great too.
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awesome build!!!!!
Are you doing this by yourself in that garage? Just wondering because that rear end gets heavy to reinstall with just a floor jack. Post more pics. I cannot wait to see. |
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I applaude you even attempting a build like this in a work space that small. I think you've sold me on those Wolfe lowers...just concerned about no sway bar tab...
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Not having sway bar tabs almost prevented me from buying as well. However, I decided that sometime next year I will weld in their sway bar system. Normal street driving without the sway bar is just fine. I have yet to see how it does at the track without a sway bar. Figured if this setup was good enough for those x275 guys running the 1/8 in less than 5 seconds then it will be just fine in my slow ride. :) To answer your other question, NVH did increase slightly but not by much. I did put Prothane super grease in and all around the metal. That stuff is like magic. When I put prothane control arm bushings on my factory control arms with this grease I never had a squeaking issue as some warned me about. I drove on that setup for 15k miles. I just purchased a 14oz tube of this stuff that will last me a lifetime. I think it was $31.00. Prothane 19-1751 Super Grease. |
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After the Mach is done, I decided I need to finish that 'cuda in the background. It will just be a nice cruiser, thinking no more than 600 NA HP. :)
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Funny I was going to ask about the Cuda .
We finished a 462ci for my older brothers challenger. Indy heads, fast efi. Keisler 5spd. **** nice running motor. |
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I am waiting for the intercooler install. I know what I went thru with the 3 row ProCharger IC..I want to see this one go in(though the smaller pipes will help).
You would LOVE my barn..you could work on 20 cars at one time (not exaggerating either lol) Awesome build!!! |
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How's the upr k fit with maximum Motorsport control arms?
Right now I have mm control arms/coil overs and cc plates, I'm also going to try to swap in a upr k Bmeagher |
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Weekend Update;
Planned to get much more done but I was lucky enough to pick up a cold from the Air Plane and tomorrow I get back on another plane. So more progress will have to wait until the end of the week. Installed the UPR A-Arms, picked up a 14oz tube of Prothane Super Grease for the bushings. I think I have enough for 100 cars now. Put the grease on all over the bushings and inside the k-member where the arms mount. https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-8...o/IMG_1907.JPG Started on the Coil-Overs but the cold seems to kick in as the sun goes down, coughing... Marked the Strut while it was on the car so I would put the brake tab on the correct side. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-P...o/IMG_1900.JPG Oh, here is the old engine mount on the Passenger side: https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-W...o/IMG_1874.JPG |
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Lastly, Long Block is done and waiting to be installed.
Ported Heads, Turbo cams, Stroker with Oliver Billet rods, billet oil pump gear, Canton Oil pan, ARP2000 studs, bolts and all the other normal built parts. So, this means my stock long block is up for sale, includes stock oil pan, exhaust manifolds, Cam chains/followers, etc. Here are some pics of the motor. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-L...o/IMG_1913.JPG https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-W...o/IMG_1916.JPG https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-g...o/IMG_1918.JPG https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-2...o/IMG_1922.JPG I wanted to pull the motor today but ran out of time. |
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In for updates!
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Weekend Update - This week I was in Switzerland again, arrived home late Thursday, Friday was spent with the family and I was beat by 8PM. Recovering from timezone changes gets harder the older I get. Saturday, after the family run to Starbucks I was able to get back to the Mach, but only had part of Saturday as we had a Halloween party that night and Sunday went to the Texas Nascar race.
Here's the :halloween Costume, made it last minute from a pillow case. Of course I am in my Daughters pink room :) https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-N...o/IMG_1964.JPG On to the Mach... First step was separating the spindle from the stock control arms, wow what a pain. I think I spent the majority of the day beating with a fork, finally cut out the dust boot and three hits it was out. Sheesh. Then I took a little time to clean up the spindle and give them a fresh coat of paint. Here is the back side. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-O...o/IMG_1963.JPG After I get it installed I will take another picture. I then got back to the coil-over install. My first issue from last week was when mounting the lower support on the strut with the brake hose bracket, this bracket rattled, I do not want any additional noise if possible so I purchased a star washer, cut a few 'stars' off of the washer that aligned against the strut and then tighter it down. This was a perfect solution. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-j...o/IMG_1960.JPG |
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Quick view of the Coil-Over assembly, this was really easy to do and shows some of the added benefits of the MM Coil-over kit.
A good Vise that turns sideways is a huge helping hand. This shows the Strut, brake hose bracket, lower bracket, sleeve and lower spring perch. Bolt on the lower bracket and just slide the rest on. Torqued to MM's specs. https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-s...o/IMG_1940.JPG Next, it is required to slightly file part of the strut to allow the upper spring perch to slide over the top. Took maybe 5 minutes with a very light file. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-I...o/IMG_1937.JPG Next was installing the dust boot. This comes pre-trimmed by MM. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-h...o/IMG_1943.JPG Then apply grease to the top of the boot, drop on the provided thick o-ring and grease the top of this, prevents tearing and it hold the o-ring in place very well. I got a little messy. :) https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-T...o/IMG_1944.JPG |
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I then spun the lower spring support to 3.75" from the base, not that it will stay at that point but just to be the same starting point on both sides. I am sure adjustments will happen. So, use whatever works for you.
Then just slide the coil-spring on. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/--...o/IMG_1947.JPG This is the upper spring perch, this pictures has a few steps in one, as I forgot to take enough pictures. First, grease the o-ring groove, squeeze in the o-ring, then grease the inside of the perch, drop in the bearing race then add grease on top of this. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-I...o/IMG_1949.JPG Now, pack the bearing from both sides and drop on top of the bearing race. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-J...o/IMG_1950.JPG Grease the upper bearing race and drop on top of the bearing. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-l...o/IMG_1953.JPG |
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Now simply slide the upper spring perch on the strut. Then grease the bottom of the cap, this will make contact with the o-ring and seal any dirt from getting to the bearings. This picture shows both parts installed.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-O...o/IMG_1954.JPG Add the spacers shown, large spacer, washer, Caster/Camber spacer, I put a little grease between each. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-U...o/IMG_1957.JPG Ready to be installed. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-G...o/IMG_1958.JPG Storage room for parts (in the background) are trashing up the garage. :) |
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Quick picture installed:
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-3...o/IMG_1962.JPG I will be cleaning up and painting all those terrible looking brackets. The pictures really bring out how dirty those other parts are. The Coil-Over kit install was really very easy and quick. Most of my time was spent on the Spindle, removing it from the old control arms and cleaning up all the rust and grime prior to painting. Not everyone cares about the latter step but I figured since I was this far I may as well go the extra step. One thing I did not show was the CC plate install, this is because I already had them installed from a couple years back. |
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Ok, I have a new problem that I need some advice on, after I tighten down the spindle to the ball joint, the cotter pin is useless as the nut tightens down past the hole in the ball joint. I used the supplied thick washer by UPR but that did not help. See picture of what I am talking about. I have emailed UPR, I hope to have done something wrong. Really a bummer UPR does not have instructions online or with the kit for this. Waste of a free night, :24:
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-u...o/IMG_1965.JPG :angry: |
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Re-drill it (difficult) or just add a spacer. That wont hurt anything.
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