Engine Rebuild in SoCal
 

Wish I could say that I was able to do it myself, but I’m looking for a good shop to rebuild the 4.6. Anyone know some reliable spots in Southern California for a mild upgrade short of a power adder?

What’s the work and equipment like to pull a motor? Worth pulling it myself and then sending to a shop? Have a pretty good assortment of hand tools but no hoist, motor stand or anything like that.

Thoughts???

Re: Engine Rebuild in SoCal
 

The most I ever did on Mach was install a Procharger. I also installed JBA shorty headers, which I did it the hardest way possible when I did it.
I did on my 98 Cobra have to replace the oil pan gasket when it had a leak, because I didn't want to pay a shop the amount they wanted. I was able to buy a bunch of extra parts to throw on, but I got a taste of really diving in there.
Honestly, even with what I know now. I would rather just take it to a performance shop where they have all the tools and know how to get the job done.
By all means, if you want to learn, then jump in there and get it done. I don't know how much experience you have, but imo it is a big job.
Another thing you could consider, is asking a shop how much they would charge to do the whole job vs. you pulling the motor and taking it to them. This might help you choose which way to go in this adventure.

ASh

Re: Engine Rebuild in SoCal
 

Now I will say, on my 04 mach, I did have to get a new motor put in and there is no way I was going to do it myself. I ordered one from DSS Racing and had a shop put it in.

ASh

Re: Engine Rebuild in SoCal
 

Have you talked to Jim Grubbs Motorsports in Santa Clarita? The guy is a Ford NUT and a fantastic engine builder but he ain't cheap.

Re: Engine Rebuild in SoCal
 

I have pulled and installed the Mach motor a few times, the first time was my very first ever engine replacement. You will need hand tools, jack stands, floor jack and patience. But it is not all that bad, just take your time and remove anything that you may damage.

I pulled the motor with trans and without, I personally prefer installing the motor with the trans bolted to it, makes aligning everything very easy when it is outside the car. If the bolts for the trans to engine are easy for you to breakfree then leave the trans in. I went to harbor freight and purchased three packs of the impact swivel extension kits and used an impact wrench to get to the bolts on the top of the trans from under the car.

Step 1, go look at my build log, it should help you, see signature below.
Step 2, remove the hood, that lets tons of light into the engine bay and it is coming off anyway so do it in the beginning.
Step 3, drain all fluids, remove radiator.
4, disconnect all hoses, heater hoses, electrical connections, (don't forget about the electrical connections at the back of the heads), fuel lines, vacuum lines, etc
5. I like to work from the top down.
Bag and tag all bolts and take pictures as you go, that is huge!
5b. remove intake.
6. remove starter
7. Remove AC compressor, you can leave all the hoses connected to the compressor, disconnect the electrical, carefully unbolt it and tie it up so it does not add pressure to the hoses.
8. Disconnect the exhaust
9. disconnect the steering rack, part where it goes by the manifolds.
9b. remove the headers, I think the factory manifolds can stay on but I have to unbolt my passenger side header.
10. remove trans bolts, but brace the trans so it wont drop when you pull the motor. If auto, you have to unbolt the flywheel from the torque converter. there is an access panel. If manual, you have to deal with the clutch cable. I would go to Youtube for a video on removing the trans so you can see what needs to be done. Same basic work, except you are removing the motor.
11. get the hoist out and connect it properly to the motor. I used bolts on the back of the heads and the front of the heads, I purchased high stengthed metric bolts from lowes with washers, bolt the hoist chains and make sure the bolts are tight. You do not want to trust the strength of just the bolt, when bolts are tight the points are very strong, if pulling on loose bolts they will bend and could break. Its physics.
12. put some pressure on, just slight and now unbolt the two engine mount nuts.
13. start jacking and wiggling... little jack, little wiggle and repeat and will come out. Inspect as you go so you can see if you forgot to disconnect anything.

and have fun, watching videos on doing this his a huge help.

I can now pull my motor in about 2.5 hours.

And get a friend to help.

Re: Engine Rebuild in SoCal
 

Thanks everyone for the suggestions, I have been more and more looking at having the motor rebuilt by a pro, have an appointment with 281 Motorsports on Friday to talk to them. I’ll also look into Grubbs, thanks for the heads up! Haven’t heard that name and am definitely glad to hav a reference on here that vouches for a shop.

I’ll keep you all posted as it develops....