Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter Installation "How To"
 

Following is a link the "Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter Installation", which is hosted on the International Mustang Bullitt Owners Club site ( www.imboc.com ):

http://www.bullittarchive.com/Mods/Shifter/

:)

Thats great. Thank you:THUMBSUP:

That is an awesome looking shifter, how doe's it compare with the pro 5.0 shifter?

I never had a Pro 5, but I love the Tri-Ax. Solid shifts, short throw, just seems so much better than I stock shifter. And I thought the stock shifter on my Mustang was pretty good... :D

Hey bullitt2050, nice to see you over here. Bullittheads are taking over, aren't they? J/K

Steeda Tri-ax is the only mod on my bullitt, and I don't mean to be an a$$, but I got instructions with mine, I wonder why you guys didn't? They were very nice and detailed too.

I got instructions too. The most time consuming part was cleaning the gasket material off the mounting surface on the tranny.

BTW STEEDA has 6 TRI-AX shifters for $159.95, at least they did last night.

www.steeda.com

Better make that 5 Tri-ax shifters left!

So is this typical of these 3rd party shifters is noise coming thru them?

I dont see a great advantage if you have to put rubber between them.

Dennis

I don't know about putting that rubber in between the shifter and the handle. I was just going to put a coat of permatex instead. Might not be as quiet but alot less trouble.

Has anyone added the Tri-ax shifter yet? I like the stock shifer except for 4-5. Would the Tri-ax help?

although I haven't felt of the stock shifter on the mach 1 yet I can tell you that a friend of mine has a 98' gt and put a triax in it and it was like night and day the differance it made. well worth the money. here is where he bought his from.http://www.thunderboltmotorsports.com/

I bought a Pro 5.0 about 4 months ago that I planned to put in my Mach but I'll tell you the stock shifter is so improved over my 01 GT now I may not. Have to wait till the spring anyway when the real fun begins.

Pols is right about this. I would have to think long and hard about replacing the stock shifter in the Mach 1. This is one smooth unit compared to the GT's. I eventually plan on replacing mine with the Hurst retro kit from Team Shinoda, not because the stock unit isn't any good, but because the Hurst retro package just plain looks cool.

well, I went to a dealer today and sat in a mach 1. I Felt the shifter and yes they have improved but to compare it to a steeda or a pro 5 0 is like comparing apples and oranges. There is just no comparison.

The Steeda and Pro 5-0 are both great shifters. Over the
years I've had both. The Pro 5-0 instructs you to
cut the rubber boot shown in the picture above. The Steeda
does not. Also, to me the Steeda handle position
feels more comfortable. But the real reason I use them over
stock is the security of knowing they both provide
adjustable, positive stops. If you 'Bang' the stock
shifter through the gears it is possible to over-extend
and damage the shift fork. This is not uncommon.
Once this happens the shifter will
occasionally 'Pop' out of gear. Once adjusted properly
the aftermarket shifters prevent this from happening.
If adjusted too closely, however you may get some
vibration and or noise. I have a Tri-ax in my car now
and experience no more noise than stock.

how to change shifters?
 

does neone know the step by step to change and install new shifters in our machs? if u can, kindly be descriptive as much as u can..thnks for ur replies

Here you go. Good luck

Installation Instructions
T-5, T-45, TR 3650 and T-56 transmissions

Note 1986 and earlier cars require removal of the center console to install the shifter. Consult a shop manual for this procedure. All other cars follow the procedure below.

Unscrew the shift knob and remove the shift boot and console cover plate assembly. (Push your fingers into the boot, hook your fingers under console plate and lift up).
Remove the factory shift handle with a 10mm wrench
Remove the four bolts (8mm) holding the inner rubber shift boot plate and remove the boot.
Remove the four bolts (13mm) holding the factory shifter to the transmission. Remove the shifter from the transmission. You may have to pr the shifter from the transmission because the adhesive sealant bonds the shifter to it. A quick blow to the base with a block of wood will break the shifter free without damaging it.

T-5, T-45, T-56 and SROD Transmissions (1989 to 2001-1/2 Mustang): Make sure the plastic bushing is still in the transmission where the shift lever moves the gear selector. If it is not there, look for on the end of the shifter, as sometimes it comes out with the stock shifter
TR-3650 Transmission (2001-1/2 and newer Mustang): Transfer the plastic bushing from the end the factory shifter to the new shifter. Pry it off with a screwdriver and snap it onto the Tri-Ax shifter.
Scrape any remaining gasket material off the transmission and clean off any oil or dirt.
Make sure the plastic bushing is still in the transmission or on the end of the shifter (See step 5).
Apply a thin bead of silicone gasket maker on the transmission mounting surface.
Install the new shifter using the new bolts provided (8mm X 1.25 X 25mm long stainless steel) Don't reuse the factory bolts, they are too short for the new shifter.
SET THE SHIFTER STOPS as follows:
a. Back off the stop bolts so that the shifter moves freely into all gears.
b. Place the shifter in third gear and thread the stop bolt towards the shift lever by hand until it contacts the shift lever.
c. Once the stop bolt contacts the shift lever, back off the bolt ¼ to ½ turn, until there is a small air gap (about .020") between the shifter lever and the stop.
d. Hold the bolt with a ½" wrench while tightening the jam nut against the shifter tower with another wrench
e. Double-check the space between the shift lever and the stop bolt. When you pull hard on the shift lever it should barely contact the stop bolt, but when you let go of the lever it should not touch the bolt, but have a small air gape between them.,
f. Place the shifter in second gear and adjust the other stop bolt.
g. Shift the shifter through all gears and double check the stop clearance in each gear. The shifter must be able to shift freely into all gears and rest in gear without interference from the stop bolts.
Important: Whenever the shifter is removed from the transmission the stop bolts must be reset when the shifter is reinstalled.

Place the BootGuard washer over the shift lever (The large washer slips over the top of the lever and slides down until it sets on the "step" in the lever.)
Place the inner shift boot over the shift lever until it resets on the BootGuard. (This is the rubber boot which bolts to the transmission tunnel, not the rubber boot, which was attached to the factory shifter.) Reinstall the inner boot with the four factory bolts.
Install the new shift handle at the desired position with the two bolts (8mm X 25mm long) and lock washer provided. Tighten bolts securely with a wrench. Install the handle in the higher position for the greatest driver comfort. Install the handle in the lower position for the shortest throw.
Install the console cover plate, shift boot and knob. Important: Always use an anti-seize compound on the threads when installing an aluminum shift knob onto the Steeda shift handle.
NOTE: Because the Tri-Ax shifter eliminates the factory rubber noise isolators (as do all high performance shifters) you will hear more gear noise or "gear whine" from the transmission once the shifter is installed. This noise is normal, and comes from the transmission, not the shifter. The vibrations that cause the noise are always present, but are hidden by rubber isolators in the original shifter and shift handle. The isolators which absorb the noise are also partly responsible for the sloppy, rubbery feeling of the stock shifter, so it is necessary to eliminate them for a a performance shifter.

Some of this noise ban be eliminated by removing the rubber booty from the original shifter and stretching it over the top of the new shifter (after the stops have been set and the BootGuard washer installed).

IMPORTANT! T-56 TRANSMISSIONS ONLY: The reverse lookout solenoid on the transmission must be wired to a 12 volt switch to allow you to engage reverse gear. Do not attempt to force the transmission into reverse. Once the reverse lockout is disengaged the shifter should go into reverse easily. Contact your transmission supplier if you need more information about the reverse lock out switch.



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thnks o4 mach 1

Pro5.0.com has an illustrated guide too. Nice.

Re: Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter Installation "How To"
 

Heres my opinion: the stock shifter sucks and you couldnt pay me to keep it in my mach

as for the noise: i have a lot of shifter noise but you cant hear it over my exhaust and music so im not worried about it

Re: Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter Installation "How To"
 

The Steeda Tri-Ax is awesome. It's solid and tough.

If you want quiet, the MGW is a little quieter but I like the feel of the Tri-Ax better. Maybe just because I've had one in our Bullitt for years now, but it is very comfortable.

I really don't like the feel of a Pro 5.0. It just doens't feel right to me.
About the only other one I'd consider is a Hurst.

Re: Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter Installation "How To"
 

I've got the Triax with a Hurst handle and love it.

Re: Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter Installation "How To"
 

so does anyone use the shift stops on theres ..... from reading the tremec service bulletin ... they say the tremec already has shift stops bulit in.. it said to use the tri-ax but to take the stops out .. could lead to shift clash and gear pop out...

Re: Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter Installation "How To"
 

Backed mine out so they don't work per the Tremec instructions and no problem.