Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter Installation "How To"
 

Following is a link the "Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter Installation", which is hosted on the International Mustang Bullitt Owners Club site ( www.imboc.com ):

http://www.bullittarchive.com/Mods/Shifter/

:)

Thats great. Thank you:THUMBSUP:

That is an awesome looking shifter, how doe's it compare with the pro 5.0 shifter?

I never had a Pro 5, but I love the Tri-Ax. Solid shifts, short throw, just seems so much better than I stock shifter. And I thought the stock shifter on my Mustang was pretty good... :D

Hey bullitt2050, nice to see you over here. Bullittheads are taking over, aren't they? J/K

Steeda Tri-ax is the only mod on my bullitt, and I don't mean to be an a$$, but I got instructions with mine, I wonder why you guys didn't? They were very nice and detailed too.

I got instructions too. The most time consuming part was cleaning the gasket material off the mounting surface on the tranny.

BTW STEEDA has 6 TRI-AX shifters for $159.95, at least they did last night.

www.steeda.com

Better make that 5 Tri-ax shifters left!

So is this typical of these 3rd party shifters is noise coming thru them?

I dont see a great advantage if you have to put rubber between them.

Dennis

I don't know about putting that rubber in between the shifter and the handle. I was just going to put a coat of permatex instead. Might not be as quiet but alot less trouble.

Has anyone added the Tri-ax shifter yet? I like the stock shifer except for 4-5. Would the Tri-ax help?

although I haven't felt of the stock shifter on the mach 1 yet I can tell you that a friend of mine has a 98' gt and put a triax in it and it was like night and day the differance it made. well worth the money. here is where he bought his from.http://www.thunderboltmotorsports.com/

I bought a Pro 5.0 about 4 months ago that I planned to put in my Mach but I'll tell you the stock shifter is so improved over my 01 GT now I may not. Have to wait till the spring anyway when the real fun begins.

Pols is right about this. I would have to think long and hard about replacing the stock shifter in the Mach 1. This is one smooth unit compared to the GT's. I eventually plan on replacing mine with the Hurst retro kit from Team Shinoda, not because the stock unit isn't any good, but because the Hurst retro package just plain looks cool.

well, I went to a dealer today and sat in a mach 1. I Felt the shifter and yes they have improved but to compare it to a steeda or a pro 5 0 is like comparing apples and oranges. There is just no comparison.

The Steeda and Pro 5-0 are both great shifters. Over the
years I've had both. The Pro 5-0 instructs you to
cut the rubber boot shown in the picture above. The Steeda
does not. Also, to me the Steeda handle position
feels more comfortable. But the real reason I use them over
stock is the security of knowing they both provide
adjustable, positive stops. If you 'Bang' the stock
shifter through the gears it is possible to over-extend
and damage the shift fork. This is not uncommon.
Once this happens the shifter will
occasionally 'Pop' out of gear. Once adjusted properly
the aftermarket shifters prevent this from happening.
If adjusted too closely, however you may get some
vibration and or noise. I have a Tri-ax in my car now
and experience no more noise than stock.

how to change shifters?
 

does neone know the step by step to change and install new shifters in our machs? if u can, kindly be descriptive as much as u can..thnks for ur replies

Here you go. Good luck

Installation Instructions
T-5, T-45, TR 3650 and T-56 transmissions

Note 1986 and earlier cars require removal of the center console to install the shifter. Consult a shop manual for this procedure. All other cars follow the procedure below.

Unscrew the shift knob and remove the shift boot and console cover plate assembly. (Push your fingers into the boot, hook your fingers under console plate and lift up).
Remove the factory shift handle with a 10mm wrench
Remove the four bolts (8mm) holding the inner rubber shift boot plate and remove the boot.
Remove the four bolts (13mm) holding the factory shifter to the transmission. Remove the shifter from the transmission. You may have to pr the shifter from the transmission because the adhesive sealant bonds the shifter to it. A quick blow to the base with a block of wood will break the shifter free without damaging it.

T-5, T-45, T-56 and SROD Transmissions (1989 to 2001-1/2 Mustang): Make sure the plastic bushing is still in the transmission where the shift lever moves the gear selector. If it is not there, look for on the end of the shifter, as sometimes it comes out with the stock shifter
TR-3650 Transmission (2001-1/2 and newer Mustang): Transfer the plastic bushing from the end the factory shifter to the new shifter. Pry it off with a screwdriver and snap it onto the Tri-Ax shifter.
Scrape any remaining gasket material off the transmission and clean off any oil or dirt.
Make sure the plastic bushing is still in the transmission or on the end of the shifter (See step 5).
Apply a thin bead of silicone gasket maker on the transmission mounting surface.
Install the new shifter using the new bolts provided (8mm X 1.25 X 25mm long stainless steel) Don't reuse the factory bolts, they are too short for the new shifter.
SET THE SHIFTER STOPS as follows:
a. Back off the stop bolts so that the shifter moves freely into all gears.
b. Place the shifter in third gear and thread the stop bolt towards the shift lever by hand until it contacts the shift lever.
c. Once the stop bolt contacts the shift lever, back off the bolt ¼ to ½ turn, until there is a small air gap (about .020") between the shifter lever and the stop.
d. Hold the bolt with a ½" wrench while tightening the jam nut against the shifter tower with another wrench
e. Double-check the space between the shift lever and the stop bolt. When you pull hard on the shift lever it should barely contact the stop bolt, but when you let go of the lever it should not touch the bolt, but have a small air gape between them.,
f. Place the shifter in second gear and adjust the other stop bolt.
g. Shift the shifter through all gears and double check the stop clearance in each gear. The shifter must be able to shift freely into all gears and rest in gear without interference from the stop bolts.
Important: Whenever the shifter is removed from the transmission the stop bolts must be reset when the shifter is reinstalled.

Place the BootGuard washer over the shift lever (The large washer slips over the top of the lever and slides down until it sets on the "step" in the lever.)
Place the inner shift boot over the shift lever until it resets on the BootGuard. (This is the rubber boot which bolts to the transmission tunnel, not the rubber boot, which was attached to the factory shifter.) Reinstall the inner boot with the four factory bolts.
Install the new shift handle at the desired position with the two bolts (8mm X 25mm long) and lock washer provided. Tighten bolts securely with a wrench. Install the handle in the higher position for the greatest driver comfort. Install the handle in the lower position for the shortest throw.
Install the console cover plate, shift boot and knob. Important: Always use an anti-seize compound on the threads when installing an aluminum shift knob onto the Steeda shift handle.
NOTE: Because the Tri-Ax shifter eliminates the factory rubber noise isolators (as do all high performance shifters) you will hear more gear noise or "gear whine" from the transmission once the shifter is installed. This noise is normal, and comes from the transmission, not the shifter. The vibrations that cause the noise are always present, but are hidden by rubber isolators in the original shifter and shift handle. The isolators which absorb the noise are also partly responsible for the sloppy, rubbery feeling of the stock shifter, so it is necessary to eliminate them for a a performance shifter.

Some of this noise ban be eliminated by removing the rubber booty from the original shifter and stretching it over the top of the new shifter (after the stops have been set and the BootGuard washer installed).

IMPORTANT! T-56 TRANSMISSIONS ONLY: The reverse lookout solenoid on the transmission must be wired to a 12 volt switch to allow you to engage reverse gear. Do not attempt to force the transmission into reverse. Once the reverse lockout is disengaged the shifter should go into reverse easily. Contact your transmission supplier if you need more information about the reverse lock out switch.



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

thnks o4 mach 1

Pro5.0.com has an illustrated guide too. Nice.

Re: Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter Installation "How To"
 

Heres my opinion: the stock shifter sucks and you couldnt pay me to keep it in my mach

as for the noise: i have a lot of shifter noise but you cant hear it over my exhaust and music so im not worried about it

Re: Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter Installation "How To"
 

The Steeda Tri-Ax is awesome. It's solid and tough.

If you want quiet, the MGW is a little quieter but I like the feel of the Tri-Ax better. Maybe just because I've had one in our Bullitt for years now, but it is very comfortable.

I really don't like the feel of a Pro 5.0. It just doens't feel right to me.
About the only other one I'd consider is a Hurst.

Re: Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter Installation "How To"
 

I've got the Triax with a Hurst handle and love it.

Re: Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter Installation "How To"
 

so does anyone use the shift stops on theres ..... from reading the tremec service bulletin ... they say the tremec already has shift stops bulit in.. it said to use the tri-ax but to take the stops out .. could lead to shift clash and gear pop out...

Re: Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter Installation "How To"
 

Backed mine out so they don't work per the Tremec instructions and no problem.

Re: Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter Installation "How To"
 

Anyones Stock Shift Knob not fit right on thier steeda handle?

Re: Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter Installation "How To"
 

The shift stops when adjusted correctly shouldn't contact anything. There's no need to back them out further. They are there as a safety secondary stop.

Re: Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter Installation "How To"
 

my knob doesnt go ob right either and its really buggin me whats the soultion????

Re: how to change shifters?
 

The steps may seem lengthly, but the action removal is very simple and shouldn't take longer than 20 minutes or so. I removed my T-56 shifter a half dozen times minimum and it never took me more than 15 minutes. :-)

Re: how to change shifters?
 

Pics and easy, EASY- step by step guideline:

Shifter Install

Re: how to change shifters?
 

According to Tremec, our TR3650 transmissions have internal stops and the shifter stops supplied with the Tri Ax SHOULD NOT BE USED. Scott Hoag confirms this and ships his MRT (Tri Ax) shifters to Mach1 owners WITHOUT THE STOPS.

Re: how to change shifters?
 

Why not use the stops? Protects the tranny.

Re: how to change shifters?
 

Talk to the engineers at Tremec. They know the trasmission best. Scott Hoag was the program director for the Bullit and Mach1 programs and he's spoke directly with Tremec about this.

The short version: If the stops are set incorrectly, or vary after to a conservative setting, the transmission will not be fully engaged.

The 3650 has internal stops.

But, what do the guys at Tremec and Scott Hoag know about Mustang trannys...... :LAUGH: :LAUGH: :LAUGH:


Here's the OFFICAL TREMEC ANSWER... See second techincal question:

http://www.ttcautomotive.com/English/faq/faq.asp#15

Re: Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter Installation "How To"
 

so you guys like the steeda tri ax short through?

Re: Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter Installation "How To"
 

The Tri-Ax and MGW seem to get the highest votes on feel.

The Pro-5.0 is awkward to me, and others that have used it agree. To each their own though.

Re: how to change shifters?
 

Lame question, but is that how I should remove and fill with tranny fluid? I want to put RP tranny in, but want to be sure.

Drain fluid, Remove shifter, fill fluid, re-install shifter??

Re: how to change shifters?
 

Just installed my Pro 5.0 last night, fairly easy I went with them, becuase I had own on my 98 snake. The first mod you should do, the stock shifter is junk, IMO. I would sril set the stop bolts and don't know who to wuote but if the stops are not threadlocked they will back out and damage the tranny, it bends the shift forks, happened on my 98 with 15,000 miles on it, warranty replacement, thank goodness.

Either shifter is good, never felt a tri-ax, just the drivers opinion. Pro 5.0 said to cut the rubber boot, but I didn't I simply placed it back over top of the shifter and pushed it down and heat will play a little factor, but I'll be aight!!!!!!!

Re: how to change shifters?
 

My shift knob doesn't fit either. Very annoying. I am going to the local auto store today to buy one to put on until I get one I like. Even without the knob the shifter feels so much better than stock. I don't notice any whine from mine even with the radio off. I am using the rubber gasket instead of RTV so that may help though. I think the name of the guy that makes it is Bobsgaskets or something.

Re: how to change shifters?
 

I am no mechanic and I did my research on this sight but when I got MY MGW shifter the instruction book was so simple a 2nd grader could have done it, it tells you about shift stops (dont use on our tranny's) and MGW answers all questions in there instructions. Easiest install I have ever done. Second to none company. Lance

Re: how to change shifters?
 

hows the mgw shifter? im probably gonna ask for one this xmas to replace my t-56's stock shifter.

Re: how to change shifters?
 

The MAIN reason why Tremec says not to use the adjustable stops in the shifter. Because theres always someone who miss adjust the stops in the shifter causing problems. Plus it gets them out of fixing problems with the trans if they find you have shifter with stops. Then they can blame it all on the aftermarket shifter.


That sucks if the stock shifter ball don't fit

Re: how to change shifters?
 

Re: how to change shifters?
 

I purchased a pro 5.0 shifter on ebay. The shifter came with everthing except the mounting bolts. I noticed 04 MACH One posted that the triax has 8MM X 1.25 x 25MM long stainles steel bolts. Does anyone know what size and what shear strength bolts are need for the 5.0 shifter.

Re: how to change shifters?
 

sticky?

Re: how to change shifters?
 

I have the MGW in my 88gt and I love it!

I have the triax in my mach and I love it too..

My fave thing about the mgw is the handle is adjustible.

It really help line up the 2-3 shift in my olf fox body..

Id like to put a mgw in my mach but it came with a triax so im keepin it..

Thats a 180 bucks I can put towards somthin else lol!

Re: how to change shifters?
 

I just installed an MGW on my mach two weeks ago... and wow what a difference over stock! It was 199.99 shipped from MGW. They have the best quality and customer service hands down. Worth the buy, don't even question it.

I have a Pro 5.O on my 95 gt and its nice but doesn't come close to the feel and quality of the MGW. I have driven stangs with both the steeda and hurst shifters and I would take the MGW no question!
:smokin:

MGW:worship:

Re: how to change shifters?
 

Pro-50>Steeda....IMO

Re: how to change shifters?
 

We also just installed the MGW shifter in the Mach today! Pretty straight forward install, the hardest part was breaking the bolts loose on the stock shifter...& cleaning the base of old material. Super great clear instructions from MGW!!!

Wow, what a difference from OEM!!! SOOOO quick & an extremely short throw! I have absolute total confidence in all the shifts now. The adjustability of the handle is great too...I can get the perfect angle now. I love how it just snicks into 3rd positively every time.

Now comparing it to the Steeda in my SN95 if I can the MGW is much better, shorter throw & feels a bit more positive to me. It is quieter by far I definitely like it better! I won't be able to justify replacing the Tri Ax though unless I get a bunch of money!

Re: how to change shifters?
 

I know this is an old thread, but nonetheless was wondering what the general consensus was on the shift stop bolts?

I recently changed out my tranny fluid and used a Cobra Bob gasket vice the adhesive.

Using a Steeda Triax that previous owner installed. It currently has the stop bolts in it from the day I purchased and been driving it like that for the past 4 years.

Read that the stop bolts needed to be readjusted after removing and replacing the shifter so I was doing my research and stumbled on this post where some where saying that Tremec recommends removing them.

So whats the consensus? Currently they are in there, however, I backed them in some leaving at least and 1/8" gap between bolt and shift lever.

Sorry I'm a newb and dont want to jack up my trans. Thanks in advance.

Re: Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter Installation "How To"
 

What is weird is I bought the shifter gasket for my Steeda off the guy here making them (I had made my own with black RTV), now when I am sitting with car out of gear, I can here alot more noise than when I had just the RTV,(did I overtighten??), as soon as I press in the clutch,very quiet,like I can here TOB or something (it is a whirring sound like a food processor spinning), shift wise I love the Steeda and have the nut and bolt set perfect for me for 3rd. I have had my stop bolts in and adjusted from day one of install about 5 years ago, I never knew about removing them, just my story, my Mach seems to always buck the trends though!!