She is acting up.
 

So as you know if you read my post on the new GT, the Mach has a new stablemate.

Since the arrival of the new car the Mach has started giving me some issues...Yes, I think she is acting up, jealous car thing...

However, following issues have manifested.

1.) Lovely whistle from one of the idler's up front. Sounds like a horrible vacuum leak. Took off the belt. Started car, whistle went away...New Idler pulleys on the way from LMR (had to do one when the car was new so no big deal there)

2.) Replaced the clutch cable as it was starting to bind up some. And now there is this unpleasant rattling noise when accelerating thru 2k. I have tried tightening and loosening the cable at the fork and at the firewall adjuster and no joy. Went underneath and re-torqued all the exhaust bolts to make sure that was not the rattle. Still there.

Thinking it is TOB Time at the least...I did a clutch 3-4 years ago and the car has probably less than 10k miles since I did that.

Should I go ahead and just do TOB, or since I am in there do another clutch anyway? I have access to a low mileage Fidanza Aluminum flywheel that I can replace the steel factory one with if I do...

thoughts? Suggestions? open to all ideas...appreciate the feedback...

Re: She is acting up.
 

TOB...replace it and it alone. As long as the rest of the clutch is good. Go Ford OE on the parts, I've had too much bad luck with aftermarket clutch parts.

:borg:

Re: She is acting up.
 

Strongly suggest replacing the clutch fork/lever and pivot ball stud at the same time as the tob. This was key to eliminating pedal slack and rattle and restoring the clutch pedal feel to brand new again. Every piece of the clutch system gets worn it's just that the tob bitches the loudest so that's all most will replace. A new pilot bearing and rear main seal is also a good idea while your'e there. All ford parts.

The aluminum fw is up to you. If it's in good, usable shape I'd probably use it. Edit- (and by that I mean it's been resurfaced and checked out ok or the friction plates have been replaced, if it's that kind of fw)

Tob- M-7548-A
Lever- M-7515-A
Stud- D5FZ-7B602-A

Re: She is acting up.
 

I wish I would have replaced my clutch fork and stud when I had my clutch replaced. Didn't even think about it at the time. I probably should have done the rear main as well. :SMASH:

Re: She is acting up.
 

I didn't think to do them the first time either. The second time I went in chasing a tob noise I threw the sink at it.

Re: She is acting up.
 

Just got back from a test drive. Replaced the idler pulley because it was squawking like a stuck pig.

It’s a definite rattle
Clutch pedal is fine, no vibration thru the pedal, trans shifts fine. Engine is smooth as silk.

The rattle almost sounds like an exhaust flange is loose. (They are all tight)

There is no rattle at low load and rpm under 2k. A little more pedal and 2k and you hear it.

Other than the rattle there is nothing in the way the car drives that is out of the ordinary...

Anyway, I agree. If I am going in there I will do the ball stud and fork as well.

Last TOB I had that went bad you could feel it binding and hear it singing. And it just came apart.

But...I will get under there one more time and check the ujoints, all suspension mounting, rack, etc. if I am going to pull that monster out I want to make sure it’s not something simpler

Re: She is acting up.
 

Just to follow up

After extensive under the car time in the lovely summer heat

Found the problem

The problem was....

Broken cat...ceramic was broken away and rattling.

Much happier than having to pull the transmission LOL

Until she starts acting up again:smack:

Glad you found it!

Re: She is acting up.
 

Me too. The noise corresponded with the replacement of the clutch cable, so following the logic that it was probably something to do with the clutch made sense at the time...

I run the mini Flowmaster ceramic cats. Both had scrub marks on the bottom.
Driver side was worst, but passenger side cat was the bad one.