Kicking Off another Mach 1 Motor Build
Last week, I was surprised to find out the dieseling sound in my Mach was caused by 4 spun rod bearings. The surprise really wasn't the spun bearings, but that 4 spun bearings didn't make a lot more noise - I only heard a low dieseling noise very briefly at start up, and when driving about 2200-2300 RPMs. Anyway, I’m definitely into a motor rebuild.
I have decided that I am not adding a supercharger or a turbo, and I do not want to get into upgrading the fuel system. But, I am going to build the new bottom end strong enough to handle anything I throw at it in the future. I’m still trying to decide how much power to shoot for, but since my Mach1 is more of a daily driver and an occassional road course car, I know I'm looking for the low end torque instead of a peak HP number. After talking/PMing/emailing several people, this is where I am heading... Block:
I am going to keep the Zex 100 shot, the 3.90:1 gears and the Borla Stinger Cat Back. The MRT Catted H-Pipe will probably need some modification to fit with the headers. I have a local engine builder all ready to go. And the head work will likely be done by John at Modular Performance. So, what am I missing????? |
Re: Kicking Off another Mach 1 Motor Build
I beam rods, ARP head studs...Id do flat tops 10.5 compression
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I beam rods are not neccessary unless your going for more than 1000 hp. they are overkill.
Get manley H beam with ARP 2000 Rod Bolts. Don't buy off brand rods. You get what you pay for. I have Manley H Beam Rods with ARP 2000 and they are great for what I need. |
Re: Kicking Off another Mach 1 Motor Build
TSS oil pump
3V windage tray Oversized valves do not fit 03+ C heads unless you also install oversized seats. The stock valve seat is the same diameter as the valve so you can't go any bigger like on the 2V heads. |
Re: Kicking Off another Mach 1 Motor Build
If I could go back and redo anything on my old build I would have put 96-98 cams in instead of the FR500s and used that money toward a big bore block or a stroker crank. Just some food for thought.
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Re: Kicking Off another Mach 1 Motor Build
Isn't I beams typically lighter, but not as strong as H beams?
http://www.modmaxracing.com/category_s/4.htm |
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http://www.modularheadshop.com/image...age%20tray.JPG |
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Both can be Billet or forged. |
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I beam rods wont be necessary for your goals.
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I beam rods are made in both low and high power capable versions.
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http://www.modmaxracing.com/product_p/65025059.htm http://www.probeindustries.com/Produ...Show=TechSpecs |
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After doing both I prefer the 3V and so does Tymensky. Anything Tymensky prefers you really have to go with IMHO. You just have to "finess" the oil pan baffles with a BFH slightly. |
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Agreed, there are 2 "Chinese" versions, spend the extra $250 bones and get the lighter ones if you can. |
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I've put 38/32mm valves in a few sets of heads and haven't had any problems yet. However, are they worth the expense? stock valves can handle a lot of abuse and with a decent valve job and pocket work can make pretty good n/a power. The larger valves allow a little more airflow but is the small power gain worth the added expense? |
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And since you have to modify both the Canton and the 3V, I'd have to do both to see which I prefer. |
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