2003-04 Mach 1 Registry Owners Club

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-   -   Clutch/Transmission rattle (http://www.mach1registry.org/forums/showthread.php?t=136362)

SSGCracker 02-20-2018 11:25 PM

Clutch/Transmission rattle
 
Ok I apologize off the top if this is in a thread already but i didn't see it when I did a search. So I have 03 Mach with total mileage right at 203k. I bought the car at 180k and was informed that 20k prior the engine, transmission, clutch had all been rebuilt to ford spec. With thew interior being as flawless as it is and how well the car ran you would never guess that it could be over 30k. So everything has been great other than a couple minor issues where all of a sudden an O2 sensor went bad, then a check engine light for a MAF, and one for an idle air control valve, and sudden appearance of engine noise through the radio.

The issue that has me and most important is a strange rattling that I assume is transmission/clutch related. Every time that I press the clutch to the floor I get a rattling sound. It's loudest when first operating the car and steadily goes away the more it's driven and disappears almost completely to completely at times after a bit of driving. Once I let off the clutch it completely disappears. It is no worse or no better if the shifter is in neutral or any other gear.. Has anyone had this same issue and knows what it is or does anyone have any ideas of what it most likely is?

311-420 02-21-2018 09:22 AM

Re: Clutch/Transmission rattle
 
I bet the previous owner didn't put in a new clutch lever and pivot ball stud when they did the clutch job. The pivot ball could be worn and the lever is bouncing back and forth on it. That's my guess!

j rick kirby 02-21-2018 12:22 PM

Re: Clutch/Transmission rattle
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by 311-420 (Post 1630028)
I bet the previous owner didn't put in a new clutch lever and pivot ball stud when they did the clutch job. The pivot ball could be worn and the lever is bouncing back and forth on it. That's my guess!

I'm with 311-420

mikeracing 02-24-2018 12:56 PM

Re: Clutch/Transmission rattle
 
Sounds like a throw out bearing.

They probably used one that came with a clutch kit. The problem is that the cable cluches have to have a tob that is rated for constant pressure or else after a while they begin to burn up.

Khyren 02-25-2018 08:25 PM

Re: Clutch/Transmission rattle
 
I'm having a similar issue with my T-56 install. But this one sounds like a rod is knocking but only with the clutch out. It comes and goes. Is more prominent when the transmission is warm. I've even had the A/C compressor cause a hellatious noise to come from the shifter. Looks like I'll have to be pulling that sucker again soon.

SSGCracker 03-29-2018 07:52 PM

Re: Clutch/Transmission rattle
 
Thanks guys for the replies and thoughts. New progressing issues now with it. Last week the rattle disappeared after steadily getting worse. It was replaced by a minor squeak/moan (both of which aren't good descriptors as the sound lies somewhere in between). Sound was primarily as I made the transition releasing the clutch and giving it gas. Then on the way to work Monday morning there were a couple instances i was locked out of a gear, i think primarily 2nd and 3rd, a couple times. It took a few seconds of holding in the clutch and letting it throttle down and a few attempts before it would slide in gear. Then the kicker Monday evening i go to throw it in reverse and leave work and ****ing big time grind. Repeatedly!!! I got it to go one time throwing it into reverse kind of harshly and it grinding then locking in. It continued to do so every time I tried reverse. I had to start shutting the car off then putting it in reverse then starting back up. At the end of the night I tried a couple suggestions of pumping the clutch a few times then trying reverse and it did go into reverse albeit it a little roughly, but without any grinding. I also tried the 1st to reverse method and that seemed to work fine. Then the rest of the week not one bit of trouble out of it. Until tonight then grinding into reverse again. Tried the pump method and still grinding trying to get it in. I went 1st to reverse and that got me into reverse albeit a little clunky again. I've intermittently had reverse grind since I bought it 2 years ago but I understand that's just the deal with no synchro for reverse. Multiple times over the last 2 years i would pull back on the stick to reverse and it felt locked out until I would slowly ease out the clutch and it would drop into reverse.

Anyway I was thinking a master/slave hydraulic issue after the pump method worked but then when it didn't this time I don't think it's that. I've always thought the release bearing was the rattle especially being that it's exactly matching up with the symptoms given in the Ford Mustang repair manual that Ford uses, the 5000 page one. I think it progressed to maybe a warped pressure plate or something causing clutch drag. Haven't tried to test for it in a parking lot anywhere being that I think where I live the police would be up my *** in a heartbeat with the exhaust on that car and it revving up to 7200

So, sorry about the lengthy reply, but anyone have any additional thoughts with the extra symptoms listed? I'm thinking I'm going to replace the clutch and plate and bearings and all that jazz here shortly. Hopefully nothing else is damaged other than that. Are there any step by steps with pics for that or videos floating around out there?

mikeracing 04-05-2018 12:38 PM

Re: Clutch/Transmission rattle
 
Maybe i missed it but i didnt see that you had converted it to a hydraulic clutch. The cable clutch quadrant can also be bad if its a cable. Or bad master slave or line along with the tob

sutyak 04-09-2018 09:04 AM

Re: Clutch/Transmission rattle
 
Sounds like the clutch isn't completely disengaging. If it has the stock clutch quadrant then grab the clutch pedal and pull up on it to allow the auto-ratcheting mechanism to adjust. If it has an aftermarket quadrant then back out the firewall adjuster.

SSGCracker 04-11-2018 07:37 PM

Re: Clutch/Transmission rattle
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by mikeracing (Post 1630593)
Maybe i missed it but i didnt see that you had converted it to a hydraulic clutch. The cable clutch quadrant can also be bad if its a cable. Or bad master slave or line along with the tob

Nah you didn't miss it. I was running down possibilities of what i was finding in searches of symptoms before i actually decided to look into the actual setup of the transmission so that's my bad.

As of today I think I'm going to have to park it until I can fix it after the latest symptoms. I didn't want to keep driving it with it acting up and before i had the time to start messing with it and money to order parts but it's the only car I have and not much of an option to do anything else. I'm questioning now whether my thoughts of clutch drag, that came on from whatever bearing went bad initially that was causing it to rattle with the pedal down and then caused the reverse issue, is the case now or not. I was having to push the clutch in then let the engine slow before shift up because there was a very slight grind (at least that's what i think it was cause it's not really loud like you normally hear from grinding gear) if i shifted from one gear to another in a normal fashion. That again made me think clutch drag and that i was grinding the synchros since the transmission would still be somewhat spinning with a dragging clutch. Today however there were a number of instances that even after shifting in neutral and the engine slowed down a grind would start. Again not a real loud one but it did it in neutral almost like it was still slightly in gear. If I shook the shifter side to side it got it to go away. But that's enough for me to stop driving it now.

Tried to test for clutch drag but i live in an area where i'd probably have a cop up my *** in a few minutes revving the car up. I did to an extent but not all the way to the rev limit. Only got it to 5000 before i could see people down the way turning to look and pull out their phones. Car didn't move however. It did smell like the clutch was burning though.

As for the quadrant and not disengaging...I haven't gotten up under it or on the floor to look up into **** to see what exactly was done by the previous owner so on that issue I really don't know. I'm ordering a new clutch kit in a few days and going to get the after market cable, quadrant, etc...since I know a bearing went bad and needs replacing so might as well do the rest. I am debating on the need to get the ford performance pilot and throw out bearings over what comes with the kit. Any thoughts on that? Sorry for the long lengthy posts.

sutyak 04-12-2018 08:18 AM

Re: Clutch/Transmission rattle
 
Yes replace the pilot bearing while you're in there. OEM Ford stuff is fine.

mikeracing 04-12-2018 08:47 AM

Re: Clutch/Transmission rattle
 
Donnot use the tob in a clutch kit on these cars in my opinion. Linkage and hydraulic clutches the tob only touch the diaphram when your working the clutch with a cable clutch you have to have constant pressure and there are very few tobearings rated for constant contact.

SSGCracker 04-14-2018 06:48 PM

Re: Clutch/Transmission rattle
 
I just ordered a bunch of **** that I hope will be the solution. Iwent on American Muscle and ordered the Exedy Mach 400 stage 2 clutch kit and the Exedy lightweight flywheel because if I'm gonna pull it and go this far might as well get all of it. Based on 311-420 and j rick kirby I ordered a new pivot ball and clutch fork both Ford parts because again, why not if in there. I added on a Ford performance pilot bearing and Ford performance throw out bearing. Last thing I got was a BBK replacement clutch cable, quadrant, and firewall adjuster kit. It cost roughly $900 for all of it so not a pleasant parting of money so I hope that this isactually whats wrong. I've been sitting here second guessing myself and wondering if i'll get it off and replaced and it ends up being something internal with gears or synchros, etc...

So based off the symptoms I've listed previously...any reassurances...lol?

j rick kirby 04-15-2018 06:29 AM

Re: Clutch/Transmission rattle
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by SSGCracker (Post 1630709)
I just ordered a bunch of **** that I hope will be the solution. Iwent on American Muscle and ordered the Exedy Mach 400 stage 2 clutch kit and the Exedy lightweight flywheel because if I'm gonna pull it and go this far might as well get all of it. Based on 311-420 and j rick kirby I ordered a new pivot ball and clutch fork both Ford parts because again, why not if in there. I added on a Ford performance pilot bearing and Ford performance throw out bearing. Last thing I got was a BBK replacement clutch cable, quadrant, and firewall adjuster kit. It cost roughly $900 for all of it so not a pleasant parting of money so I hope that this isactually whats wrong. I've been sitting here second guessing myself and wondering if i'll get it off and replaced and it ends up being something internal with gears or synchros, etc...

So based off the symptoms I've listed previously...any reassurances...lol?

Cancel the cable and get a stock replacement from Maximum Motorsports. Yes it's a big deal.

SSGCracker 04-26-2018 10:47 PM

Re: Clutch/Transmission rattle
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by j rick kirby (Post 1630719)
Cancel the cable and get a stock replacement from Maximum Motorsports. Yes it's a big deal.

So what's the big deal with it? But too late now, I just logged in and saw this.

But, was wanting to say thanks to all for the suggestions and thoughts on the issue I was having. I started in on it Wednesday of last week and finished Sunday evening. Only a few hours a day so total working time was somewhere around 12 hours so not bad for never having done a clutch or dropping a transmission. I was kind of worried at first because it felt nothing like the clutch that was in it before but apparently that's what everyone is saying about the exedy clutch i put in. But it's working great and there is yet to be any occurrences of any of the past issues. I feel like the car has a little more power to it maybe with that lightweight racing flywheel and I feel like it sounds slightly different now.

But thanks again all.

01yellerCobra 04-26-2018 11:22 PM

For future reference aftermarket cables generally don't last as long as the stockers. My 04 came with am adjustable cable and the outer sheath started to fray. I put a stock style in and haven't had an issue since.

j rick kirby 04-27-2018 05:25 PM

Re: Clutch/Transmission rattle
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by 01yellercobra (Post 1630869)
for future reference aftermarket cables generally don't last as long as the stockers. My 04 came with am adjustable cable and the outer sheath started to fray. I put a stock style in and haven't had an issue since.

they also just break leaving you stranded.

SSGCracker 05-01-2018 10:32 PM

Re: Clutch/Transmission rattle
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by 01yellerCobra (Post 1630869)
For future reference aftermarket cables generally don't last as long as the stockers. My 04 came with am adjustable cable and the outer sheath started to fray. I put a stock style in and haven't had an issue since.

Quote:

Originally Posted by j rick kirby (Post 1630877)
they also just break leaving you stranded.

Ahhh ok, good to know. Since I have it in already I guess I'll just leave it go for now and make sure to include it in my weekly checks instead of monthly or quarterly and if something goes wrong then I'll replace it with stock then. Just to clear up any confusion I might have, you are strictly talking about the cable only right? Not saying to get rid of the quadrant and firewall adjuster to go back to the self adjusting right?

mikeracing 05-02-2018 12:03 PM

Re: Clutch/Transmission rattle
 
Yes you can have a quadrant and adjuster. The adjustable cables can be hit and miss. Mine works perfectly but i was lucky


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