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Re: TKat13's Mach1 Build Log
Trans Cooler Line Install
There are three lines on this install, I like to refer to them as Transmit, Receive and returned buffer overflow. (geek?) Anyway, two lines go to the cooler and one is used on the pressure relief valve to prevent to much psi build up. I hear it causes prevent huge failures on the motor as the converter presses against the mod motors. I do not know, I just have to trust the experts here but that little safety piece was only 20-30 bucks, ok 100 after you add in the connectors, lol. Here is the line for the relief valve. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-w...o/IMG_2599.jpg Here is one of the lines going to the cooler, the other looks almost the same, slightly different length. Put the heat shield on before I placed the final end on the hose. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-t...o/IMG_2600.jpg It looks messy, but that is me using to much thread sealant, I am always very careful not to put any inside but the threads are open season. I have never fully trusted NPT fittings. This picture shows the crazy fittings I had to use, I had to install a 1/2" to 3/8" reducer, then the 3/8" 'T', temp sensor in the 'T', 3/8" to -6AN fitting and finally the 90 degree -6AN connector/line. Wow... https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-X...o/IMG_2632.jpg Lower line connection, much more simple. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-C...o/IMG_2624.jpg This is the area where all my lines/wires are protected by heat shielding from the exhaust. There is just not much more room in this car! https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-r...o/IMG_2633.jpg |
Re: TKat13's Mach1 Build Log
Additional Trans Lines:
Trans lines are routed and tied to the k-member. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-j...o/IMG_2634.jpg Going further to the back, by the A-Arm. https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-4...o/IMG_2636.jpg Rear of K-member: https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-m...o/IMG_2637.jpg At the transmission, you can also see the relief valve. If you look closely, you can see the trans brake, this is also finally wired up, I will cover this later. https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-l...o/IMG_2639.jpg For grins, here is my torque converter, it is shiny now so I figured I would give it a photo moment. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/--...o/IMG_2642.jpg |
Re: TKat13's Mach1 Build Log
Exhaust hanger welded to the pipe and bolted down to the car. Funny thing is, there was a threaded nut/hole on the underside just asking for me to use it. Pure guessing that this bracket would work, I ordered it on Summit, it fit perfectly. Someone is wanting me to finish this project. haha
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Y...o/IMG_2649.jpg The threaded hole hides under the inner finder plastic. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-d...o/IMG_2650.jpg Re-installed my oil-breather can. It was really hard finding space for this huge thing, I almost purchased a new one but for now I would rather save 100.00 bucks. The mounting area is really close to where I had it so I was able to re-use all my hoses. Just not the bracket, had to make another one. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-h...o/IMG_2653.jpg Nothing sexy, just a bent piece of aluminum holding on the can. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-s...o/IMG_2656.jpg Lines, the 'T' connects the other side. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-l...o/IMG_2658.jpg |
Re: TKat13's Mach1 Build Log
Driver's side of the breather hose.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-K...o/IMG_2659.jpg My 5 year old Optima battery was slowly discharging as I used it to test electrical connections, not to mention it has been sitting for 6 months. So I decided to buy a charger/maintainer. It showed the battery down to 25%, 4 hours later it was fully charged and going through a routine conditioning program on the battery. Left it on there for a few days. https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-G...o/IMG_2620.jpg Even comes with a mounting bracket for storage! No longer hunting for the charger. If anyone asks to borrow a charger, I will give them my old sears one, this puppy is staying home. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-O...o/IMG_2657.jpg Next on the list is to get my speedo working for the auto swap without spending any money! |
Re: TKat13's Mach1 Build Log
Installed the Electronic Cut-out, this comes right off the down pipe. The exhaust will point down and away from the other piping. It is a 3" cutout and is secured with stainless steel bolts.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-C...o/IMG_2663.jpg https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-a...o/IMG_2664.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-8...o/IMG_2665.jpg Other than this, I got very little done this weekend, spent time with the misses as the car has taken all her time away. Back at this week after work. |
Re: TKat13's Mach1 Build Log
Speed Sensor.
Since I put a TH400 in the car, I needed a way to get the Speedometer working in the car. A kit can be purchased to make it work but that is about $200-250. Figured I would give this a try since I have disabled my ABS system and have no need for it at this point. Since the transmission basically has a small reluctor ring for the speed sensor it only makes since to use the reluctor ring on the front wheel. I cannot take credit for figuring this out, I found a mustang forum where a user name 'BurnTire' wrote up how to do it. Link Here: http://www.highperformancestangs.com...dometer-Sensor Figured I would give my experience on this one, I did not have to lengthen any wiring at all. Just changed out the connectors. First of all, you will need to locate the speed sensor wires that go to the transmission, of course it is on the transmission harness. The wire colors are Dark Green with white stripe and Gray with red stripe. DG/Wh = + GY/RD = - You will need to cut off this connector. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-S...o/IMG_2602.jpg Next, locate the ABS sensor wire on the passenger front wheel, follow this up to the ABS module inside the fender. Cut the wire and put heat shrink on the exposed wire to prevent any shorting. Make sure you leave enough wire to use this connector as it will be connected to the transmission harness. https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/--...o/IMG_2606.jpg Now solder and heat shrink this connector on to the transmission speed sensor harness. Yellow/Black = '-' Yellow/Red = '+' So, solder Y/B to GY/RD and Y/R to DG/WH. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-h...o/IMG_2605.jpg Now run the ABS sensor wire back towards the transmission, you will also need to reposition the transmission harness and run it towards the front. They will meet up without extending the wire. As you run the wire back, use existing holes in the frame to secure the wire with the plastic push pins that are already in the wire. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-n...o/IMG_2607.jpg Next, you will need your tuner to make some changes to the Speed/gear/tire ratios. Number of holes for OSS sensor 10 Gear Ratio 5.00 Tire Revs Per Mile - (Set based on front tire data) I will not be able to verify this until the car is back on the road, but I will return with an update once I get this validated. |
Re: TKat13's Mach1 Build Log
Waiting on parts again, but figured I would take a few minutes to work on some items, even though it leaves them partially complete.
Needing to add a couple of gauges, however I really do not like gauge pods, etc. So I decided to use purchase a pod that goes around the instrument cluster. The AEM Wide-band gauge fits right in with zero modification, however that cannot be said for the Eboost-2 controller as it is the 60mm, that is the small version. I took that bezel off and looked behind the mounting, this depicted where each gauge would be mounted as the Eboost also requires more depth than the AEM. Here is the first mock-up of the AEM gauge. https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-D...o/IMG_2686.jpg Next, came time to grind out the hole for the Eboost, anyone doing this, just take your time and test fit as you go. The Bezel will be paper thin in some places. Still not enough grinding: https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-M...o/IMG_2689.jpg This one did it! https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-P...o/IMG_2690.jpg Installed: https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-n...o/IMG_2691.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-1...o/IMG_2692.jpg |
Re: TKat13's Mach1 Build Log
I had to adjust my original idea of the fuel system with regards to where I mounted the regulator, this in turn required me to order more parts. So I am waiting until Friday for those to show up. Last night I mounted the regulator to get this out of the way.
I used existing mounting bosses on the intake that I no longer used for the emissions stuff. Made a bracket out of a stick of aluminum. The mounting bosses are angled, so it required some bending to make the Regulator mount straight and give clearance. Had I noticed this before I could have put an angle bend in, but this will do. Bracket ready to go on. https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-m...o/IMG_2700.JPG Mounted the regulator: https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-o...o/IMG_2703.jpg Installed with the -6AN return line connected to the bottom of the regulator with a 90 degree fitting. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-q...o/IMG_2707.jpg View from the other side of the engine. You can see the bracket as well as the adapter for the fuel rail. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-V...o/IMG_2708.jpg Thought I would show a couple tools I needed to modify for the turbo install a while back. These were new wrenches that had to be cut and ground just to fit in the tight places to secure the connections. The small one was used for the turbo adjustment bolts and the large one was for the -10AN oil return coupling. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-P...o/IMG_2694.jpg |
Re: TKat13's Mach1 Build Log
I need to put a lip on one of my intake tubes that I cut to fit my intake changes from the On3 kit. So, instead of dropping 300.00 on a bead roller, I will be using my vise. Here is my quick drawing of my idea. Once I get it done and if it works as I hope then I will share more details. I am hoping to make one for 10.00 or less.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-x...o/IMG_2688.jpg Tubes will be welding to plates that can screw into my vise's mounting plates. Se shall see... |
Re: TKat13's Mach1 Build Log
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Re: TKat13's Mach1 Build Log
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https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-u...o/IMG_2713.jpg By now, I kind of feel like the walking dead, I am ready for this build to be over. I need a break. lol |
Re: TKat13's Mach1 Build Log
Drive shaft loop:
Installed the drive shaft loop from lakewood. It fits perfectly and was relatively easy to install. The hardest part was removing my seats in my tight confines of the garage. I assembled it around the drive shaft, after assembly I noticed I needed to bring the lower loop up one notch, loosen all bolts, and re-installed in the second set of holes, this was because it was hitting the exhaust. It requires 8 3/8" holes drilled into the floor board, I marked my step bit with masking tape to the correct size. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-z...o/IMG_2726.jpg After the seats were removed, I found an old 2x4 and used it to prop the carpet and wiring up so I did not drill through them. Worked like a champ and drilled from underneath. https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-c...o/IMG_2728.jpg This is installed, needed a second pair of hands to hold the bolt heads on top, buddy stopped by for 10 minutes, perfect timing. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-h...o/IMG_2759.jpg |
Re: TKat13's Mach1 Build Log
Fuel Hat Build Up:
Started working on my fuel hat this weekend, as luck would have it, I had a full tank of fuel. Pumped it out before I began work and my neighbor loved me as I gave him 15 gallons of E85. He was the only one that had a Flexfuel vehicle. Originally, I was going to just swap out the transmission and keep driving it for a while but one thing led to another and the motor was taken out. lol Here is the Hat: https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-h...o/IMG_2729.jpg I used the match box because it was exactly 1.5 inches high, this was to give me the total depth needed to know how far to slide the pumps in. Just grabbed a box, later it was funny that I have matches next to my old fuel hat. Bag of parts that came with the hat. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Y...o/IMG_2730.jpg First step was to install the fuel hose connectors into the hat. https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-4...o/IMG_2731.jpg Now the O-Rings that hold the pumps in. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-f...o/IMG_2732.jpg Pushed on the supplied hose. https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-h...o/IMG_2733.jpg |
Re: TKat13's Mach1 Build Log
Installed first set of clamps:
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-5...o/IMG_2735.jpg First Pump... wow it took some good amount of force to move it through the o-rings, that is a good thing. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-f...o/IMG_2736.jpg 2nd Pump: https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-d...o/IMG_2737.JPG 3rd Pump, this thing is getting heavy now: https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-w...o/IMG_2738.jpg I then paired the positive and negative wires to each pump location. The 'why' part will be more clear later. Used zip ties to keep the pairings. https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-6...o/IMG_2740.jpg |
Re: TKat13's Mach1 Build Log
Installed fuel safe but connectors and then used heat shrink on top of them. The last time I did this the heat shrink lasted very well but in this case it is only for added protection. I made sure the connectors were near the top of the hat.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Q...o/IMG_2741.jpg I purchased the Fore Innovations fuel relay module with the wiring kit. It comes with a wire harnesses for the pumps which makes a nice install. Here I am soldering the harness on, this is why I paired the wires earlier as these will eventually go back to the fuel relay board. This is the first pump. https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-g...o/IMG_2743.jpg The next two pumps. https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-I...o/IMG_2744.jpg Magic heat shrink, I should have stock in these guys. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-l...o/IMG_2745.jpg Installed the cobra fuel sender. The ground wire is marked on the wire exiting the hat with a back wire tie. I used a stainless steel bolt/nut to hold the ground in the provided hole. In fact, the hat had an area behind this location for added depth for a screw/bolt. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-P...o/IMG_2746.jpg |
Re: TKat13's Mach1 Build Log
Used the filters that came with the hat, now installed.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-B...o/IMG_2749.jpg The only thing I did not show was installing the AN fittings, I -10AN to -8AN reducer and -8AN to -6AN reducer. There are Fore Innovations connectors. Here it is, all ready to drop in the tank, but it was about 1AM so I went to bed. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-H...o/IMG_2751.JPG I will connect the fuel sender lines when installing the hat. This week will be busy at work, so I do not expect to make any progress until Thursday. |
Re: TKat13's Mach1 Build Log
Connected the vacuum lines to the waste gates for the Eboost2 controller.
The kit comes with clamps, but not enough of them for dual waste gates. So I had to use what I had available via a local parts store. This is at the waste gates. https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-b...o/IMG_2720.jpg Connected to the solenoid, fuzzy picture I must have been a bit shaky, I will try to get a better one later. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Y...o/IMG_2721.jpg On the pipe to the left is the boost pressure side, before the meter sensor. I also connected the BOV to the right. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-m...o/IMG_2722.jpg Ran the vacuum line to the BOV inside the inner fender, pic was taken before I trimmed the zip ties. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-i...o/IMG_2724.jpg I then put a T on the vacuum line that is going to the intake, it is almost hidden under the fuel lines. The fuel line goes directly into the fuel rail with the Fuel T going to the regulator. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-k...o/IMG_2725.jpg |
Re: TKat13's Mach1 Build Log
Here is the diagram used for connecting the Boost controller for 2 waste gates but only 1 turbo.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-j...-no/eboost.jpg Since I touched on the fuel line to the regulator, here is that line that I made, it is -8 AN. https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-W...o/IMG_2719.jpg Next on the list is to install the Fore fuel filter and fuel hat then run the lines to the tank, mark the point to cut the lines and install the hose ends then make it permanent. Getting very close at this point, work will delay me more than the time needed to fire up the motor. Getting anxious and nervous at the same time. |
Re: TKat13's Mach1 Build Log
Man, this is a huge project. If anyone else decides to tackle this setup themselves, this thread will be like gold to them. High five to you for documenting all of it! :CHEERS:
Fl-1a oil filter? I'm assuming some things had to be relocated and you're no longer using the fl-820s? |
Re: TKat13's Mach1 Build Log
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Yes, I had to relocate the oil filter to make room for the forward facing header. The relocation kit comes with the On3 turbo kit, the bracket was fabricated. I am still thinking later that I will change the oil lines and relocation kit to a Canton unit but I am way over budget as it stands and this will work for a year of so. Besides, changing it now would be a PITA. I have always liked the larger Fl-1a filters, even used them on my Mopars in the past (don't tell my Mopar brothers this, they may hang me, lol). It is a great flowing filter. |
Re: TKat13's Mach1 Build Log
Installing the Fuel Hat...
After removing the stock fuel hat and basket, you then have to remove the plastic housing inside the tank. It is to small to accept three pumps. It is also the hardest part so far of the fuel system swap. The plastic is molded/melted on a metal ring, the metal ring is spot welded inside the tank so no way of drilling the spot welds out. Ok, maybe there is but I did not want to risk drilling through the tank, sparks, etc. However, what I did find that worked well was use a soldering iron to melt the inside of the plastic housing where it meets to the metal, then pop the plastic piece out by removing from the outside of the ring. After you have completed this, then you are left with this metal lip. See below. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-y...o/IMG_2765.jpg This lip needs to be beaten into submission, as flat as possible. Well, I had to with this three pump configuration. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-3...o/IMG_2772.jpg You can now prepare to drop in the Hat, but you will first need to remove the rubber gasket from your stock hat and use it on the new hat, at least the top hat by CPE is designed to use it. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-6...o/IMG_2766.jpg There are holes that align the nipples of the gasket to the hat. Very helpful. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-m...o/IMG_2768.jpg Now drop it in and tighten her down. When I say drop it in, I mean angle, push, cuss, take a break, re-angle and it will eventually agree it wants to be in there and finally fall in. And, of course I dropped on bolt somewhere in my garage and now I need to get another one but that is par for the course. Kind of like hunting down that tool that you had 5 seconds ago, you know it is near by but cannot find it. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-0...o/IMG_2773.jpg Next is the line to the filter, filter and the rest of the lines. Then wire the beast up. I am in the red zone of this build now, I am so close. |
Re: TKat13's Mach1 Build Log
Wiring Harness that connects the hat to the fuel pump controller.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-v...o/IMG_2836.jpg Soldered and heat shrinker the fuel sender wires, dressed the wires in wire loom and routed towards the rear of the tank in the slight depression of the tank. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-f...o/IMG_2838.jpg Started running the fuel lines to the rear of the car, I have it all the way back to the tank but forgot to take pics, will add them later. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-7...o/IMG_2839.jpg Got the gauges installed in the dash, Eboost2 controller and AEM sideband. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-R...o/IMG_2834.jpg Was able to repurpose the clutch cable hole for all the new wiring needs, all dressed and ran inside a grommet and wire loom. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/uj...E=w927-h695-no Now back to the fuel system, hope to have updates later tonight, I had to stop because I needed a 90 degree fitting instead of a straight. Picked that up at lunch today from HPP. |
Re: TKat13's Mach1 Build Log
Installed the cut-out switch and the RS-232 data logging port in the center console.
Here is a picture of the hole for the RS-232 port, this is to log the fuel-air ratio from the wide-band gauge. Should help in tuning, just so I can drive it to the shop. Easy and cheap to add, so why not. Measured the hole needed, drilled a starting hole, then used an air saw and finished it up with a hand file. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-f...o/IMG_2882.jpg https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-N...o/IMG_2883.jpg Inside view, the top of course is the RS-232 port, silver toggle is the arming for the transbrake, this just gives power to the relay that the switch on the shifter controls, basically a safety override. The black toggle controls the QTP cutout valve. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-j...o/IMG_2884.jpg I then cleaned it up and dropped it in the console but no pics yet. |
Re: TKat13's Mach1 Build Log
So, hit a bit of a snag yesterday. I am behind on updating the thread, many items to post for the fuel, etc. Will get to it soon.
However, I was all ready to start the beast up this weekend for the first time. All I had left to do was add Antifreeze to it on Sunday, add fuel and start it up. Of course, this is where things went south... Antifreeze leaks! You can imagine the anger I had over this... :Flame: Pulled out the Craftsman color scope (borrowed from friend) to find the problem and sure enough it is leaking at the top of the oil/coolant adapter. Instantly I started to google... Even more :Flame: anger set in as it seems it was common knowledge that I needed a gasket from the 1999 cobra, not the 04 Mach. It is also 'common' knowledge for those that have had this same issue. Sheesh.. What does this mean you may ask? Well, it means all the turbo piping is coming back out as there is no way to get to those stupid bolts and swap out the gasket. 7.00 gasket.... Well, I could not get in the right frame of mind on Sunday so I just put a bucket under the leak and called it a day. Start dismantling everything tonight. 99.9% done and back to zero... very frustrating. I share this with you as this is a true build log, the good and now the BAD. HELP PLEASE: For anyone that has had this issue, the one thing that I still do not know is if I can even use the Mach1 oil/coolant adapter with the 99 gasket on this Teksid block, or do I need to source a 99 oil/coolant adapter cobra unit? |
Re: TKat13's Mach1 Build Log
Back to the Fuel system.
I decided to with the Fore Relay box to control the three fuel pumps, a bit expensive but it does come with all the wiring for the pumps and the power/ground/fuses. $230 out the door IIRC. The device is a nicely built unit, very sturdy. However, the only issues is the trigger for the relays is a 12V+ trigger, this is fine for the first pump as I just tapped the pink wire from the FPDM connection to this trigger, but the trigger than I plan to use for the 2 additional pumps to engage on boost will come from the Eboost2 controller. However, this is a Negative(-) trigger. So, I had to use an external relay to convert this (-) trigger to a (+) trigger. Here is the Fore Unit: https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-b...o/IMG_2870.jpg The fuses are inside the box, here is a pic of the inside. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-p...o/IMG_2869.jpg I installed it on the same bracket that the ford FPDM was installed on, however it does require a small nipple to be ground off, seen here: https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-x...o/IMG_2872.jpg I then used a single screw to hold in place, however under the relay module I put a strip of mastic, it is a rubber adhesive that is used on power lines, works really well at holding things in. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-r...o/IMG_2873.jpg If you look closely, you can see the mastic at the lower part of the bracket. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-B...o/IMG_2874.jpg |
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