Synthetic oil

[ptim]

I assume the Mach's come with regular oil (not Synthetic), is there a conversion to change over or just take the old oil out and put the Synthetic oil in.

[SVTCobra]

I think Ford puts in a Blend. I don't have the book with me..

[bigjack]

I recommend you use the factory oil until the first scheduled oil change as kind of a break-in period. Then change to the synthetic. There are no sophisticated steps to changing to synthetic ie. flushing etc. Just change the oil with the synthetic.
bigjack
commercial/industrial lubricant specialist

Use the search function as there is a great volume of discussion on this topic already.

[Chance Word]

My service rep said the oil that comes in the Mach 1 from the factory is a 50/50 blend of synthetic and regular oil. The transmission fluid is 100% synthetic.

I went with Ford's synthetic service at my first oil change. It was $10 more.

And get your book stamped.

[gbranton]

I changed mine over today. Used Mobil 1 0w-20. Bought a Ford filter, kept the reciept, highlighted the oil and filter on the reciept and wrote down the mileage in the book. That is more than sufficient to keep the warranty up.

[hotrodnut]

Originally posted by ptim
I assume the Mach's come with regular oil (not Synthetic), is there a conversion to change over or just take the old oil out and put the Synthetic oil in.

The Mach did come with a 5w20 blend and can be switched over to full synthetic without problems.

If you want to stay with Motorcraft 5w20 and use their full synthetic, you can get it at "The Parts House" over on west 90 across from the Mazda Dealer. They stock it (pt# XO5W20QFS)and it's only sold by the case (12 quarts) @ $74.19 + tax. I was going to use it and did for 1 change, then I decided I'd rather use the Mobil 1 0w20 Ford Spec Oil. If you decide you want to use the Motorcraft, I still have 6 quarts left and you can have it. It's just taking up room in my office and I think I'm going to stick with the Mobil 1 now. Let me know if you want it and we'll meet up somewhere.

[ptim]

hotrodnut

Sounds like a plan, what is the main benefit of using the synthetic oil vs regular oil, I have pretty much used 10w40 in all my cars, I change them about every 3,000 miles.

Also, when did you do your first oil change, I've got about 750 miles on mine, somehow I acquired 2 free oil changes from FORD.

Thanks for the help

[bigjack]

Mobil 1 is a PAO (polyalphaolefin) man-made long chain hydrocarbon. PAO's are non-neutonian fluids which flow better because the molecules are all the same size, have better mechanical resistance to shearing, and stronger co-valent bonds which can take higher operating temperatures than petroleum basestocks. 80% of wear is at start-up. Better flow characteristics mean oil gets where it is supposed to lubricate faster and so it greatly reduces start-up wear. Regarding viscosity; the higher the rpm means the lower viscosity (resistance to flow) is required.
bigjack
black on black stock

[hotrodnut]

Originally posted by ptim
hotrodnut

Sounds like a plan, what is the main benefit of using the synthetic oil vs regular oil, I have pretty much used 10w40 in all my cars, I change them about every 3,000 miles.

Also, when did you do your first oil change, I've got about 750 miles on mine, somehow I acquired 2 free oil changes from FORD.

Thanks for the help

The main beifits of Synthetic over Dino Oils are:

-Superior protection under heavy engine loads/stresses.
-Faster lubrication at start-up in low temperatures.
-Superior protection at high temperatures.
-Superior resistance to thermal breakdown.
-Superior protection against harmful deposits.
-Cleaner running engines.
-Greater resistance to oil oxidation (thickening).
-Optimizies engine efficiency.
-It's Man-made so you are not depleating the Dino supply.

To me, it makes sense just because of the last one.

3000 miles is a good number for changes. I did my first oil change the day I brought it home. I feel it's good to get the initial start up oil out and fresh in just to be sure there are no metal bits grinding around in there.

I waited until 2000 miles before I switched to the Full synthetic because the Dino oils allow more friction and therefore everything seats better.

I would use the 5w20 Motorcraft Blend for the first change and if you want to change the oil yourself they will probably give you the oil and filter. My slaesman got the oil and filter for me using the free change cirtificate so I could do it myself.

[starscream]

Originally posted by hotrodnut

-It's Man-made so you are not depleating the Dino supply.

To me, it makes sense just because of the last one.


Not all "synthetic" oil is completely man made.

You need to read up on the lawsuit from a few years back between Mobil vs. Castrol.

Basically, Mobil tests showed Castrol Syntec removed its PAO content and replaced it with hydroprocessed mineral oil. They chemically convert the molecules to a different set of molecules, predominantly through chemical rearrangement or decomposition of the structure molecules. Since these processes: isomerization, reforming, hydrotreating, and hydrocracking are not natural processes, the courts allow them to claim they are "synthetic". Basically, it's a lab process done on natural petroleum.

There are only three truly 100% fully synthetic (all PAO or ester based) oils that I know of: Red Line, Amsoil, and Royal Purple.

Mobil 1 is actually a blend of PAO with some other bases (hence the "tri-synthetic" formula).

The rest is all marketing.

[Ralph Greene]

I believe the 7500 series of Amsoil...5W20...is hydrocracked base stock also. It's cheaper than the other Amsoils also.

We all know synoils are superior lubricants in some conditions, and I use them myself.

Has anyone ever heard of anyone having an engine oiling problem caused by dyno oil when changed at recommended intervals? 5000 miles or 6 months, which ever come first for normal use (3 months or 3750 for severe duty). Or ever heard of or seen an engine whose life was shortened because of the use of dino oils? I haven't! No service advisor at a Ford dealership has either.

For most of us, and the way our cars are used, IMHO we're the victim of good marketing. But synoils are relatively cheap, so why not use them? This argument is like abortion and religion, no one's mind is ever changed.

[bigjack]

Mobil 1 is a true PAO basestock; Group IV per industry standards. I believe almost all the other major oil company synthetics are Group III; which means they are close to PAO's, but they are really highly refined hydrofinished mineral oil with virtually no wax. I believe PAO's are the way to go from my 20+ years of selling industrial/commercial lubricants. They take heat, they flow better when cold, they resist mechanical shearing, and have stronger film strength under boundary lubrication conditions (tight tolerance upper end/cams/rollers etc.). Additives of course are very important in today's engines. All the major oil companies use premium additive components. So if you maintain a short dranin interval you are treating your Mach well. In all my other cars I drain at 15000 miles using Mobil 1. I love my Mach so much I will probably change at Fords recommended drain interval. It is of course just my opinion based on field experience. I have saved industrial customers lots of money and downtime using long lived synthetics.
bigjack
black on black stock:blah: :CHEERS: :MADNOEL:

[spyder210]

So which blend of Mobil 1 Synthetic should i use?

0w20 or 5w20???

Also, I assume we need to be using 6 quarts right?

The dam dealership i bought my mach from did not give me an owner's manual!@!!!

any idea were i can get my hands on one???

thank you!!!

[Canoman]

5w-20. I don't think they even make the 0w-20 anymore. I couldn't find it last time I looked, and I went to a bunch of places. Mobil 1 doesn't even list it on their website anymore.

[jlstang351]

Royal purple here! I thik Ipaid $70 for 12 quarts off of ebay w/ free shipping!