turbo mach is going good!

[sandman]

I got my boost leaks fixed and it seems to be runing great! I am only seeing 4.5 lbs of boost right now and putting down 400 rwhp. I just got my boost controller installed and will be getting it re-tuned at a later date. It pulls real nice right now. Thanks for the support guys!

[MachB1ue]

Dang man...400HP at 4.5 pounds of boost is AMAZING! I cannot wait to get started on my Turbo project. I can't imagine what you will be seeing at 10PSI. :THUMBSUP: :HOPPY:

[FL Mach 1]

sweet :THUMBSUP:

[Zate]

now you just need some new rods/pitsons to lower that comp ration down to about 9:1 and run 12 psi ;)

[Chaucer]

This is a turbocharger right? If so, what are you doing about lowering your compression ratio?

[sandman]

haha, i'm adding more fuel and taking out more timing. Not to sound rude nut so many of you are stuck on this compression ratio thing. Nobody complains about the 01 cobras with blowers??? they have 9.85:1 . Is there really that much of a difference???

9.85
10.0
= .15 in compression :frown:

[Chaucer]

I would think that .15 is a notable difference. I'm not positive on this but I dont think the '01 cobras needed 91 octane to run properly. Might be something you want to consider rethinking. I'd hate to see you destroy the hypereutectic pistons and your engine along with it.

[MachB1ue]

Originally posted by Chaucer
I would think that .15 is a notable difference. I'm not positive on this but I dont think the '01 cobras needed 91 octane to run properly.

You are right that the 01 Cobra's did not require a higher octane to run properly but it was advised. And .15 compression really isn't that big of an issue--especially considering he is running a turbo which is far more safe than a supercharger.

[jbrad88]

The compression ratio is an issue, but if you run a reasonably conservative boost figure, then you can do a lot with the tuning. And remember, these aluminum engines do a much better job of getting rid of heat, and do not have the tendency to heat soak the way an iron headed/block car will. Heat soak leads to more hot spots in the chamber and on the piston surface. Therefore, they will accomodate a little more compression then an iron headed engine with boost.

The big weakness, even with good tuning, will continue to be the engine's rods and pistions. I have seen countless examples of the stock ford cast piston with entire chunks of the piston missing. Ring lands especially.

Just keep the tune conservative, the boost conservative, and run good gas and you should run just fine. With the hyperutectics it is not a matter of if, it is a matter of when...I would definately start saving my money for a built bottom end. At least you have a good crank and an oustanding block...

Enjoy.

[Blown86GT]

Originally posted by John and Renae
The compression ratio is an issue, but if you run a reasonably conservative boost figure, then you can do a lot with the tuning. And remember, these aluminum engines do a much better job of getting rid of heat, and do not have the tendency to heat soak the way an iron headed/block car will. Heat soak leads to more hot spots in the chamber and on the piston surface. Therefore, they will accomodate a little more compression then an iron headed engine with boost.

The big weakness, even with good tuning, will continue to be the engine's rods and pistions. I have seen countless examples of the stock ford cast piston with entire chunks of the piston missing. Ring lands especially.

Just keep the tune conservative, the boost conservative, and run good gas and you should run just fine. With the hyperutectics it is not a matter of if, it is a matter of when...I would definately start saving my money for a built bottom end. At least you have a good crank and an oustanding block...

Enjoy.

Not entirely true....I have seen hyperutectic pistons withstand some abuse. I had a buddy with a 93 Cobra that ran 150 shot for several years with no problem. As long as the tuning is on, hyperutectics can be somewhat reliable.

Paul

[Zate]

if you reduce the CR to about say.. 8.5 or 9 to one.. you can run more boost and that = more HP... with 10.1:1 you just cannot run much boost.. safely..

i was just saying.. put in forged internals (take care of the weakness) and while your there go dished pistons and lower the CR.. then run 12 ish psi and put down 600 rwhp.. not 400.

[Darkhorse]

Actually the compression ratio difference between an 01 Cobra and 03 Mach is .25(Mach is 10.1:1 if I remember correctly) but we're splitting hairs.

People do mention and worry about the 99/01 Cobras with boost. Go over to the Corral or BON and you'll see a lot of that. There are tons of blown 96-01 Cobras whose engines crapped out under boost. It's inevitable. That c/r is just not ideal for it. You can survive with it for a while but eventually it will go. I agree with John, with those pistons it's a matter of when, not if.


No flames intended but that's a lot of money to spend for just 4.5 pounds of boost and 400rwhp. You could have went with a 125 shot of nitrous with a good tune and been safer while making the same power. You would have only had to put the motor under stress when you needed the boost. Hopefully you'll get some years out of this setup though. Good luck with it and get it to the track and see what it turns. You probably have the fastest car on this board. Go with no more than 9:1 with forgings and good rods and crank the boost up and you'll be really impressed.:cool:

[jbrad88]

that 150 shot of nitrous, is roughly equivelant to @ 8lbs of boost on a mild build up, and you are correct that the hyper's will do okay with that reasonably mild shot, especially with a good tune and reasonable care. I have just seen soo many sets of these pistons wasted even in mild applications, and the forgings just seem to go on forever...Everything is relative...I knew guys blowing up stock motors with a 75 shot...too much timing, not enough fuel, running it when it is too hot, etc...I also know a lot of guys who ran 10.1:1 motors with 6-8 lbs of boost that ran forever, with few if any problems...ran consistent 11.20's driving their cars too and from the track...

I am just not a big fan of hyperutectics with forced induction. Mild applications you will probably be okay, but if you are going to spend the money on a turbo kit why not build the bottom end properly to truly enjoy the potential of the kit..

JMHO

[Viper89]

Hey man i was wondering what Turbo is that and where did u get it? u think u could give me a internet site to get it off of?

thx....

[Red Mach'03]

Any pictures ? :COOL:

[Ralph Greene]

IMHO (like some of you having done this before), the main problem is the fueling and tune. It's difficult to get the returnless fuel system just right using available aftermarket parts. Sure you can use the 03 Cobra pumps and tank, but you still have to get the tuning right.

While all these tuners claim to know exactly what to do, my experience is otherwise. The chip guys are mostly only working with a small part of our computer, and mostly only WOT setting at that. They don't know much about dealing with drivability issues caused by aftermarket fuel systems, aftermarket ignition systems, and changes in intake tracts (and MAF's) from aftermarket intake systems. It just takes a lot of dyno time to work all this out.

I agree you can work around our CR for a street system, but it would be better to copy how it is done in the 03 Cobra.

It's good Sandman is happy with his car, and I enjoy his posts. His engine can live a long time, or a rod can pull apart or ringland break any day. Good luck to him I say.

However...if I wanted a power adder car, I would have bought a Cobra. I've had a built engine (Sean Hyland) blower 550 RWHP car, and all the problems associated with that. From now on, I will let the factory figure it all out, and take my blower car with a warranty. Enjoy that power Sandman!

[Ralph Greene]

Sandman's power level is very nice for the street. For those of you who have never had 400 RW, that is about all the HP you can use on the street with anything resembling street tires. When you get much over that, you have to use race tires on the street, and any Honda will out run you for a while, because you are just spinning the wheels all the time.

On my previous car with 550 RW and 4.10's, I could spin cold Nitto DR's in 2nd gear on pavement as easily as my stock mach will spin on sand. I had to run 15" BFG Dr's on the street, which you can't use in the rain and last about 2000 miles, to have any traction.

My point is what works good on the drag strip (low gears, hi HP, and very sticky tires) doesn't necessarily make a fast street car. IMHO 400-450 RW or so is about right for the street and enough.

[Joe]

Ralph, i agree with you. There are so many guys out there with the new 03 Cobra trying to break the 500 rwhp mark. That's the question I keep asking, how much do you really need on the street? These guys with the Cobras pushing 500 hp really need some good rubber and then you can really only run that at the strip. I think if a person gets their Mach 1 to 400 rwhp, its going to be a really fun car to drive on the street and at the track......

see ya
Joe

:COOL:

[Chaucer]

One of my buddy's bought the ultimate sleeper car... A 99 cobra that looks totally stock other than the dr's in the back. It puts out 853 rwhp!! Let me tell you this.. It's one hell of a ride when he floors it.

[KCSailor]

Hey Sandman can you give us a run down of all of your componets and a cost.. I've taken mine to a couple smaller shops around here and no one will touch it. I'm thinking about taking her down to Dallas next time I'm there to visit my sister and see what I can get done.

[69mach03]

Originally posted by Chaucer
One of my buddy's bought the ultimate sleeper car... A 99 cobra that looks totally stock other than the dr's in the back. It puts out 853 rwhp!! Let me tell you this.. It's one hell of a ride when he floors it.

CHRIST!!!! :THUMBSUP: :worship: :worship: :worship:

[Chaucer]

do your exhaust manifolds/headers still point towards the back of the car or do they now point towards the front of the vehicle?